Feeding Aquatic Turtles…the Problem of Water Clarity and Quality
Many aquatic turtles make wonderful pets, but nearly all share one troublesome trait – they are messy feeders, and keeping their water clear is often a major challenge. Today I’d like to present a simple, time-saving feeding technique and review some helpful products such as undergravel filters and gravel washers.
Separate Feeding Containers
In both zoo collections and with my own aquatic pets, I have found removing the turtles from their aquarium for feeding to be the most effective way of maintaining water quality. Nearly all turtles adjust readily to this, and feed without difficulty in plastic tubs or other easily-cleaned containers. I’ve had difficulties only with a few retiring species, such as mata mata turtles (Chelus fimbriatus) and giant soft-shelled turtles (Pelochelys bibroni). For these, extra space and cover in the form of floating plants did the trick.
Leave the turtles in their feeding container for 20 minutes or so after they finish eating, unless such is stressful for them (turtles are very perceptive…some are uncomfortable in strange surroundings and will try to escape after feeding). Elimination is swift, and many pass stored wastes shortly after eating.
Partial Water Changes
In terms of water clarity and ammonia management, partial water changes are as important for turtles as for aquarium fishes. Soft-shelled and Fly River turtles (Carettochelys insculpta) are particularly sensitive to poor water quality, but it is a concern for all species.
When doing a water change, use a gravel washer to pull water from the very bottom of the aquarium. This is a good idea even if you keep your turtles in a bare bottomed tank, and essential if you use gravel as a substrate.
I’ve found it very useful to siphon water from the aquarium into the feeding container at meal times – this assures frequent water changes and has allowed me to keep even quite large snapping turtle (Chelydra serpentina) and giant musk turtle (Staurotypus triporcatus) aquariums crystal clear.
A Caution
One important point: do not start a siphon by drawing on its end with your mouth to fill the tube, as aquarium water should never be ingested. Lee’s Self-starting Gravel Cleaner is the best model to use with turtles. If you choose a sink-compatible gravel cleaner, be sure to drain the waste water out a door or into a basement sink, and not to one used for food preparation.
Undergravel Filters
An undergravel filter will turn your entire filter bed into a living filtration unit. Gravel washing and partial water changes are still necessary, but if powered by a suitably strong aquarium pump, an undergravel filter will go a long way in easing tank maintenance. I use them either alone or in conjunction with canister or other mechanical filters, depending upon the circumstances.
Food Selection
For those times when you must feed your turtles within their aquarium, choosing a suitably-sized food item will assure that less of it winds up floating about and clouding the water. Please check out our pelleted turtle foods for some ideas as to the sizes that are available.
Further Reading
Large species such as snapping turtles and alligator snapping turtles are interesting, but pose serious husbandry difficulties for most hobbyists. For some ideas and tips, please see my article The Captive Care of Snapping Turtles and Alligator Snapping Turtles.
Please write in with your questions and comments. Thanks…until next time, good luck and enjoy, Frank Indiviglio.
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about 2 years ago
I am so glad that I came across this entry; we just got a baby Western painter; and I couldn’t figure out why his water is ALWAYS dirty. He won’t climb on the rock-always stays in the water… why???
about 2 years ago
Hello Renae, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Hatchlings are sometimes reluctant to bask because of all the predators that they face in the wild…everything from herons to bass and large frogs will make a meal of them, and so they are shy in general. Try some stout floating artificial plants, it may rest on them, still part in the water, and obtain the benefit of UVB lighting in that way (UVB is vital for painted turtle hatchlings).
Be sure also that the turtle can get onto the rock, and that its surface will not damage his plastron…if you are unsure, please take a look at the Zoo Med turtle dock. It slopes gently to allow easy access and is non-abrasive.
Check that the basking site is warm enough to attract the turtle – 85-90 F is ideal. Try watching from a doorway, as it may be basking when all is very quiet. Usually painted turtles adjust to captivity and time and become quite bold, so it may just take a bit more time.
Please keep me posted and be in touch if you need further information.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
Im new to the turtle world, found this site trying to figure out a way to keep the water clear, since it is very cloudy, the partial water changes have seemed to work, but i still have a problem with one of my turtles, it is the smallest of the bunch, a baby painted turtle, the only time it is not basking is during feeding time… it doesnt seem intimidated by the others when they go up to the dock, is this normal behavior? there is another hatchling in the tank, a mudd turtle, and it enjoys the water as much as its older companions, and all of my turtles are 2″ or smaller… so its not a huge size difference…
please help?
about 2 years ago
Hi Eric, Thanks for your comment.
Unfortunately, Frank is currently away having emergency surgery. We’re expecting him back within the next couple of days, at which time he’ll answer your question. Sorry for the delay!
about 2 years ago
Hello Eric, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog. I apologize for the long delay in responding to you…an emergency surgery put me out of commission for a time.
Painted turtles of all species, both in and out of captivity, are persistent baskers (and mud turtles are, as you note, largely aquatic). As you have pointed out, competition is not likely at play.
Turtles that are ill, or afflicted with shell fungus, will bask for unusually long periods in an effort to cure themselves, but neither seems to be a factor here. In captivity and wild situations (southern and eastern painted turtles), I have noted individual differences in basking behavior.
Painted turtle do have high UVB requirements, so please be sure that you are providing a UVB bulb of sufficient intensity, and a warm enough basking spot (85-90 F). There is mounting evidence that some reptiles sense UVB deficiencies and adjust basking behavior accordingly.
If you’d like to send in some information concerning your bulb and basking site temperature, I‘d be happy to advise you further.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
Hi frank,
I wonder if you can find the name of the canister filter that doesn’t need to be below the tank…when I saw you, you mentioned there was a new filter out there and I’m really interested in getting it for my red earred sliders…
thanks!
about 2 years ago
Hello Jacqueline, Frank Indiviglio here.
It was a pleasure speaking with you while I was looking after the large (45 pound) spurred tortoise at Social Tees last week.
The filter I mentioned to you, which is a canister that can be placed alongside your tank, is the Zoo Med Turtle Canister Filter. The model pictured here is rated for a 30 gallon aquarium, and I have used it successfully on one housing 2 western painted turtles. I believe your tank is 75 gallons or so (?), but if partially filled may actually hold 30 gallons of water. I recently saw 2 larger models at a product seminar, and do believe they are available. We can order such for you if you have a greater volume of water to deal with…please let me know.
Good luck, enjoy and cograts on your long-lived sliders. Please stop by Social Tees from time to time. Something interesting is always going on…I’ve been by there with animals ranging from 60 pound snapping turtles to displaced woodchucks.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
Hi Frank,
I have a baby painted turtle, I recently put him in a 20 gallon tank the tank has a filter, a water heater, a uv light and a basking light. I bought him the small floating basking dock, but he mostly stays under water. He will sometime hang on the end of it where it slants in to the water, but he very rarely goes on to teh dock completely, Im just afraid that he will get shell rot if he does not bask. The water temp is between 78-82 degrees, and the basking light is around 75 degrees. I have heard many different reasons for why they won’t go on the dock. One is that the basking light should be warmer, another is that because the dock floats the turtle will think it’s unstable, and also that they feel to exposed. Are any of these things relevant? I just don’t want him to get sick. Thanks so much! I hope you’re feeling better:) Noel Furano
about 2 years ago
Hello Noel, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog and your kind concern. I’m feeling fine now, thank you.
Painted turtle hatchlings, being so small, are preyed upon by huge assortment of animals, including bass, bullfrogs, snapping turtles and herons; even giant water bugs will take them on occasion. So it is in their nature to be quite wary until they have put on some size. In the wild I rarely come across them basking in the open, despite high populations evident by basking adults. They may bask less often than adults in general, or perhaps do so at the water’s surface. Shell rot is more of a concern where there is an injury to the shell leading to an infection, but certainly they should dry out from time to time. By 6 months to 1 year of age, depending upon the individual, they will usually be quite fearless and feed from the hand.
A warmer basking site should be provided in any event, and this may encourage more use of the site. 85-88 F is ideal.
An attached basking platform would likely get more use as well. I’m not certain that this is an important point, but I have rarely if even observed any turtle species using a free floating site in the wild. I use the Zoo Med Turtle Dock for hatchlings, as it attaches firmly to the glass and the sloping ramp allows for easy access.
You might also try covering the glass around the basking site with black construction paper or something similar – this may provide addition security and encourage the animal to emerge from the water.
Good luck, enjoy your turtle and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
Hi! I’ve had two red ear sliders since May 09. They have always eaten a diet of Tetrafauna Reptomin sticks with an occasional treat of dried shrimp or krill. In the last 4 days however, they are not eating the pellets at all. They float until they are mush. The turtles were given to me in a 10 gallon tank, and I thought maybe they were unhappy in close quarters, so we moved them to a twenty gallon two days ago. Still no eating of pellets, though they will eat the treats. What would stop healthy eating habits?
about 2 years ago
Hello Jessica, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Their tastes can change over time, but usually not both turtles at once. What may be happening is that they are slowing down as the season changes, and, not being as hungry as usual, are becoming picky.
Depending on where your turtles originated, their activity levels may be governed by an “internal clock” of sorts. Even if kept warm, they may eat less or not at all over the winter. If this occurs, you can keep their water at room temp (65-70 F) with a warmer basking spot. As long as they are in good health, they should be fine – despite swimming and moving about, they will lose very little weight, and should begin feeding in the spring. Warming the water to 76-78 F sometimes sparks feeding, but not always…if they don’t feed, it is better to keep them on the cool side as mentioned above. True hibernation is difficult to duplicate without some experience, and not really necessary.
Keep an eye on them just in case they are ill, but I doubt this is the case as they are still eating their favorites.
I suggest that you add some whole guppies or other small fish to their diet, as well as live blackworms (available at pet stores, sold for tropical fish) and small crickets from time to time. Try also kale, dandelion and other greens, but most refuse that until they mature, at which time they take more vegetables.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
Hi! I’ve had two red ear sliders since april 09. They have always eaten.In the last 4 days however, they are not eating the pellets at all.is there a time that they stop eatting or should i still keep tring to get them to eat.do they hibernat.i have heard thath you should stop feeding them when they hibernat.plz help me ♥
about 2 years ago
Hello Marie, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
It is common for native turtles to slow down or stop feeding as the seasons change; often an “internal clock” of sorts controls this, and they will not feed even if kept warm. As long as they are otherwise in good health, they will be fine.
Red eared sliders can be kept in water that is at average room temperature (65-68F) or a bit higher over the winter. Leave their UVB light and basking light on during the day – they will continue to bask and move about; you can try feeding them 1-2x per week, but they will likely not eat much, but will also not lose much weight.
Actually putting them into true hibernation is tricky, and the details would depend upon where within their range the turtles originated.
Good luck and please be in touch if you have any further questions.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
I have a very small RES and I currently have him in a 40 Container. He is a little bigger than an Oreo cookie. I took him from someone who couldn’t care for him and had him in a tiny container. I change him water every 2 days and I use spring water. How many hours should he bask? For a RES so small does he need any special care? I am purchasing him a new tank heater and a new UVB Light. I have it deep enough for him to swim and have 3 big rocks for him to bask. I declined to put gravel in since I currently don’t have a filter system yet. Is it too cold out now for him to go out for natural sunlight during the day?
about 2 years ago
Hello Laurie, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog. You’re asking all the right questions, I’m sure you’ll do well.
Tap water is fine for sliders, no real need to use spring water. Chlorine is not good for amphibians, but does not harm turtles and may keep bacteria in check.
Leave the UVB light on for 10-12 hours/day…the turtle may be shy about emerging from the water at first. Be sure to provider an incandescent spotlight over the site as well, for warmth and to attract him to the UVB. The Zoo Med 10.0 is your best choice re UVB output…small sliders need a great deal. Try to position the basking site within 12 inches of the bulb – deep water is okay, as long as there are some artificial plants and all in place so he can rest while swimming. Watch for rough rock surfaces…basking platforms are preferable, and can accommodate any water depth.
Feeding the turtle outside of the aquarium, in a bucket or such, will help with water quality – he may take time to adjust, try leaving some plastic plants in the bucket as cover.
A sufficient supply of Calcium, along with UVB so the turtle can manufacture Vit. D3, are the main dietary concerns. Reptomin Select-A-Food can form the basis of the diet; it’s important to add small whole fishes (pre-killed guppies are best for small turtles) each 7-10 days as well. Live blackworms, earthworms and other shrimp based foods can be used as supplements. Try fresh kale and other greens, but most hatchlings refuse these. As the turtle matures, greens should be added regularly.
I’ve seen adult RES basking on sunny days in mid-December in NYC (not hatchlings, however); they are quite resilient. You can put the turtle out on sunny days when air temps are 50 F or higher, just watch for sudden cloud cover and predators – even starlings and gulls will take small turtles.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
Frank,
Thank you so much for the information. I just wanted to be sure I was doing what was needed for the RES. I am new to caring for a turtle and it is some work but well worth the time. He lives in our Classroom at my work. We serve people with Mental retardation and Disabilities so the RES is a nice pet for them to view and see. Someone gave the RES to one of our Individuals here who cannot afford the care, so I took him and do all his care. Some people do not think when they give gifts about the cost, time, and care it will require. When he becomes adult size he should be in at least a 100 gallon tank is that correct? Thanks for your great advice and ideas.
about 2 years ago
Hello Laurie, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the feedback and kind words. You’re doing a wonderful thing for your students; in my experience turtles make a very positive difference in just about every situation.
It’s common for people to buy animals without a full understanding of what’s involved, especially where inexpensive species are concerned; much of the blame can be placed upon unscrupulous sellers, who should know better.
Males sliders are a good deal smaller than females (no way to determine the sex of a hatchling) and can get by in a 40 long to 55 gallon aquarium, especially if set up properly so as to maximize the space. Females do best in a 75-100 gallon – larger aquariums are always better, and usually easier to maintain once set up and running.
Good luck and please keep me posted from time to time.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
i just got a fly river turtle. the little baby has fungus all over its body. be careful most people out there sale this little creatures very ill.(buying online coincidence) the button line is that my little FRT is sick. the PH is fine the water temperature is 82 F. UV_B bulb i have been treating it with PIMAFIX.but i am looking for somebody out there that went through the same situation who can give me great advice. i really appreciate any help.
about 2 years ago
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog. I’ve had the same problem with the majority of young Fly River Turtles that came to me at the Bronx Zoo via confiscations. I had fairly good results using Marine Salt at 1-1.5 teaspoons per gallon, and keeping the water at 84-85 F. Hard water and a high pH (8-8.5) may help as well. I’ve not used Pimafix, but have read good reports on it – please write back if you’d like to experiment with Methylene Blue/Acriflavin, which I tried some years ago.
Be sure the animal cannot bank itself up on hard objects – much like soft-shelled turtles, these guys are easily I injured – most fungus seems to take hold in nicks and scrapes, often during shipment.
Well adjusted adults are very hearty, and I’ve not had to use salt or adjust pH at all; in fact, the oldest animal in the Bronx Zoo collection is a (very cantankerous!) male Fly River Turtle who is approaching age 70.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
Hey Frank, thanks for your response. I live in Midtown and have searched online, Petland, and Petco and can not find Acriflavin. Any suggestions on where I can buy it?
Freddy
about 2 years ago
You can order it directly from the manufacturer. Use it at fish strength for most turtles, but start at half-strength for Fly Rivers, just to be on the safe side. Most turtles do well when left in it 24/7 for a few days, but I would go with fish recommendations on the bottle in your case. I’d give the salt a try first, as that has worked as well. If you keep turtles, however, Acriflavine is always good to have on hand.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
I got the salt as you specified. The one with the spots is very happy…swimming, eating,etc…The one without the spots hides in the aquatic plants all day,literally ALL day to the point I thought it was dead, but is not. Also it doesn’t eat and basically appears paralyzed. An hour after I added the salt is when the spotted turtle seemed happier. How often do I add the salt and can I continue with the PIMAFIX cycle with the salt? Any advice for my other stoic turtle? Again, thanks a million!!!
about 2 years ago
Hello Freddy, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the feedback and kind words. Their activity levels vary a great deal, I’ve noticed, and some are much shyer than others. I’d give the shy one cover in the form of plastic plants to hide below, also perhaps keep his water level moderate so that it can easily reach the surface if debilitated. They also show very variable food preferences – more so than many turtles,. Try tempting it with fresh prawn (seafood store prawn is fine), earthworms if you can get them, live blackworms, fish,; some really like fruit – papaya and especially banana; pre-killed crayfish sparked one that I had. If however it is paralyzed, you would need to see a vet.
The salt won’t evaporate so you’ll only need to add some when you do a water change; don’t add salt when you replace evaporated water, as you’ll be increasing salinity. They seem fine with it indefinitely, perhaps they frequent river mouths/estuaries and are well-adapted, as are some populations of snapping turtles, mud turtles here.
I’ve not used PIMAFIX – check directions re use in marine aquariums – the amount of salt you’re using wouldn’t bring salinity to marine level, more like brackish. I can check with some of our fish people if you need more info.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
Hey Frank, Freddy here again. Once again thank you for your help. I love animals so much and it broke my heart to see these turtles suffering but you saved them. The turtles are doing great. I used the salt as you directed me and it apparently cured their fungus. I did buy acriflavine and am wondering if I should run it through the tank to ensure that the fungus is gone? Also, the ph is currently at 8.2 which is where I want to keep it. I have coral and aragonite substrate which keeps the ph high, however, when I do a water change, the ph goes down. Can you recommend something natural I can purchase to keep in the tank that will keep the ph high?
about 2 years ago
Hello Freddy, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks very much for taking the time to write back, glad things turned out well. Since it responded to the salt, I’d hold off on the Acriflavine for now.
Proper pH 8.2 is the easiest way to adjust pH; coral and such great also, but take time as you noted. You’ll need to monitor the pH if you use this product, however, as your substrates will affect the water over time as well. Changes will not be so critical, as they would for fish, but monitor until you get a feel for the pattern that will develop.
I’ll mention your comments on my Twitter posts today as well.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
Hi, i have a red eared slider, i had him for about a year now,well i recently moved him from a 20 gallon tank to a 46 gallon tank, Now for about a week i noticed he hasnt basked at all, i have the set up exactly how i had it when he was in the 20 gallon tank, his eating habits are the same he looks healthy and is swimming fine.what should i do?
about 2 years ago
Hello Athena, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog. Good idea to give him more room; turtles are very aware of their surroundings and so often take time to adjust, even when put into a better situation. Basking is risky for wild turtles (exposes them to predators) – he may just take time to be secure enough to leave the water. I see you’ve said the set up is the same, but is it possible that because of the tank size the basking light is now further away from basking site? If so, the site may not be warm enough to attract him – a stronger bulb might be needed.
Good luck, enjoy your turtle and please keep me posted; I’m interested to hear if he adjusts soon,
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
Hello Mindy, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog and the kind words, much appreciated. What you are seeing is fairly typical,; in time they tend to become quite bold and may “greet” you for food – 2 huge ones I kept for decades would follow me through their exhibit’s glass! The toad might feel more secure if could hang a plant down fro the screen top in his favorite corner – they like to push under cover.
Marine toads often become more active as temperatures rise – if your home is getting cool in the evening, this may keep down his activity for now. Heavy misting of the terrarium often encourages toads to be active, as they tend to come out and search for insects at such times in the wild.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
Frank,
Thanks so much…i will keep you posted, i am going to get a stronger light and see what happens in the next few weeks!
about 2 years ago
Hello Athena, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the feedback; please let me know how it works out and if you need anything further,
Good luck and enjoy,
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
Frank,
Hi, remember about the turtle problem i was having about him not wanting to bask? well i did go out and got a stronger bulb, he would go on the basking area for a quick second and then jump off, now he actually went on and stayed on he looked a little scared but i think hell be ok because he hasnt jumped off! I just want to thank you for your response!! and having a great website for us reptile lovers!!!
about 2 years ago
Hello Athena, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks so much for taking the time to write back with your kind comment; very happy to hear that all is going well. Thanks for being such an interested reader – I look forward to hearing from you in the future.
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
Hi Frank, can you tell me if I am doing everything right for my African sideneck? When I first purchased him from the pet store the salesman told me he would only need a 10 gallon aquarium and no filter. I soon found out he was wrong. I have been reading sites like yours and asking questions in stores like Petsmart and now I have a 55 gallon tank, a desert UVB lamp and a heating lamp with a blue UA bulb. He never eats out of the water( I have tried relentlessly) and he does not bask. The floor of the aquarium is bare except for large rocks on one side. He also has a “cave he can go in to hide or sleep which has a basking are on top. He seems fine now, but he does not have a heater as I have been told conflicting information about its necessity and he seems to not mind the water. His diet consists of boiled chicken breast, goldfish(as a treat), nightcrawlers, mealworms and turkey. I have only had him for a month. He has five inches of water in his tank and a Bio filter. When his water gets dirty I do partial water changes and use Start right as a conditioner. Am I doing anything wrong? I absolutely love Frankie and I would love to have him around for a long time?
about 2 years ago
Hello Sandy, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Glad you made the changes you describe, you’re on the right track.
Deeper water is ok also, but provide a rock or mounted driftwood that reaches to a few inches below the surface; the turtle will rest on that and absorb UVB there and while floating- they rarely if ever leave the water to bask, and probably get much of their D3 from their diet, but I always use a UVB and UVA as a safety measure. A dry land area should be offered as well, as some do come out eventually.
They will not eat out of water, but sometimes grab food on land and drag it in (I saw an amazing video of one “stalking” a dove that came for a drink to the shore of a pond, in Africa – the turtle lunged out of the water and dragged the bird in!)., Try to adjust the turtle to feeding in a few inches of water in another container, as described in the article.
They are very hardy as regards temperature, most comfortable at 75 o0r so, but a bit cooler is ok as long as the turtle can warm up by floating under a lamp.
I would suggest some changes to the diet. Avoid chicken, turkey etc except as a treat, and stay with whole animals such as shiners, minnows (goldfish on occasion are ok, too many lead to health problems) nightcrawlers (these are excellent, can make up 50% or more of diet), mealworms, crickets, waxworms and other insects, freeze dried shrimp, whole uncleaned shrimp (“people-food shrimp”) and high quality prepared foods such as Reptomin and Zoo Med Aquatic Turtle Food.
Sidenecks have lived over 30 years in captivity, and longer lifespans are definitely possible; You are off to a good start – please check out other articles on the blog and write back with any questions. As I type, I’m being watched by a musk turtle that just turned 40 years of age – I hope you say the same about your turtle some day!
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
Thanks Frank for your response. I apologize for the delay, but in this case no news is good news. I recently bought a heater and my turtle is more active than ever! Since there is not a lot of water in the tank, I just bought a small one made for a 10 gallon tank and when it heats up to a certain degree it cools itself off, and I increased the water by several inches. Ironically I had stopped giving chicken and turkey often and I tried to introduce crickets, but he is a slow taker. I would love to try the shrimp because he has such a distinctive palate. I use the 10 gallon tank I previously purchased as an extra habitat for him to eat and play in. I just put a small amount of water as you suggested and he seems to adjust pretty well. I will be sure to keep in touch and tell others about the information you provided me. Thank you so much for your valuable insight and knowledge. I too hope that I can say the same about my sideneck as I have children and I would love for him to be in our family for years.
about 2 years ago
Hello Sandy, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the feedback and kind words, and for spreading the word about your experience, much appreciated.
Turtles can be very “picky” but sidenecks usually come around in time. Another good source of shrimp, which I neglected to mention last time, is Zoo Med Canned Shrimp – these are whole, a good size for a young turtle, and a freshwater species, which might be better for turtles, at least in large quantities, than marine shrimp. Keep him hungry and keep trying the other items as well.
You’re obviously concerned and conscientious, and so I think an look forward to a long-lived pet.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
Hi Frank
i recently acquired a female map turtle. she is almost 1 year old. We also have an algae eater in with herShe is in a 20L aquarium, half full of water, with 1 1/2 inch of gravel in the bottom. We have two filters, one canister and one Whisper filter, also a submersible heater. We recently purchased the zoo med turtle dock. we have a 60 watt bulb over the basking dock. We have had the turtle 3 weeks and she has yet to lay on the basking dock. We are concerned with her not drying out.. Is there something more we can do, also, should we take out the rocks to help make cleaning easier and help with water clarity.
about 2 years ago
Hello Ashley, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your note. Sounds like you have done your research and are going about this in the right way.
Young turtles have many enemies, and are often shy about exposing themselves. I’ve observed map turtles in the Delaware River for many years – adults bask all the time, but youngsters seem to float at the surface more, resting on floating plants but not actually coming out onto logs very often. They seem to be okay remaining wet (although some species must dry out entirely) but they do need UVB – I think they absorb this at the surface of the water. If your 60 wt is an incandescent, I suggest you add a florescent Zoo Med 10.0 bulb that spans the length of your tank.
Place floating plants in the tank so that the turtle can rest at the surface, and disturb her as little as possible for now. The extra cover (plants) should also increase her sense of security, and may make her a bit bolder as well. Check also the temperature on the turtle dock – warming it to 80 F or so will help attract her there. Eventually she’ll settle in enough to leave the water – until then the she will absorb UVB by floating.
I would remove the gravel – less work for you and a cleaner environment. Keep an eye on the fish as your turtle grows, as she may try to make a meal of it…algae eaters are quick, though – provide it with a secure shelter and they may be ok together.
Female Common Maps can get quite large, so plan ahead for a larger tank eventually.
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
Hi Franks
Its me again..through internet research we have come to the conclusion that we have a northern map turtle. We took out the rocks as you suggested and tank is much cleaner with no fish smell. My concern is still her lack of basking. The zoo med turtle dock with ramp is about 5 inch from bottom of tank. Is this a good height for her to get onto the dock. We have seen her swim underwater but not on top of the water.
thanks
Ashley Williams
about 2 years ago
Hello Ashley,
That is a good depth…the turtle will be able to come out, but it is just a bit shy – they are on the menu of so many predators’ it’s in their nature to be cautious. Just be sure there is plenty of UVB hitting the water’s surface as mentioned earlier and the turtle should be fine.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
Hi Frank
Our turtle is basking regularly. We are changing the water once a week and cleaning filters about every other day. My question is, how much shedding is normal. She’s been shedding off and on since we got her a month ago. I read online that is can be from over-feeding. Wanted your opinion on this.
Thanks
Ashley Williams
about 2 years ago
Hello Ashley,
Thanks for the feedback – certainly my predictions do not usually come to pass that quickly…nice to hear!
At 1 year of age, your map turtle is still growing quickly; frequent shedding of the scutes (shell plates) is normal; also turtles shed over an extended period, not all at once like snakes, so it takes a longer time. Just be sure it has a good calcium source – small whole fishes once each week or so (minnows, guppies, etc.), Reptomin and Freeze Dried Shrimp Overeating will usually be seen as fatty deposits around the legs – the turtle will not be able to withdraw completely into its shell.
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
Hi Frank, I had a few questions about Painted Turtles..
I recently got a baby painted turtle, (s)he is about the size of a quarter right now, is there anyway to tell the approximate age of this turtle? Also I have him/her set up in a 20 gallon long aquarium with a heat lamp and a UVB bulb. (S)he has a large rock to come out of the water and bask on(and does so quite frequently). How long should this tank set up work for him/her? I have currently about 4 inches or so of water in the tank, is this too much right now with him/her being so small or is this still not enough? I was concerned about them being good swimmers being this small so I chose to not put a ton of water in there but enough so (s)he could easily swim around and be covered by water. (S)he is a very healthy eater and loves worms and the ReptoMin I have been feeding him/her. Also was wondering is there anything that can live with my turtle? Like other fish, frogs, etc?
Thanks, Tiffany
about 2 years ago
Hello Tiffany, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog. Nice to see you are taking care to ask all the right questions, you’re on your way to having a long-lived pet.
It’s hard to judge age by size on;larger turtles, but a painted the size of a quarter would be less than 1 year old, possibly even newly hatched this spring. The 20 long should be okay for another 2 or possibly 3 years – males are much smaller than females when fully grown, but no way to determine the sex yet.
The water depth is fine – they are strong swimmers and even a few more inches of water would be okay. You can add some floating plastic plants to provide additional resting places, but not so much that cleaning becomes difficult.
Reptomin and earthworms are a very good basic diet; add small whole fishes (guppies, minnows) every week or 2, and freeze dried shrimp. Crickets and other insects, blackworms can also be given. Add greens as the turtle gets older (please see my article on Vegetables as Turtle Food).
It’s difficult to keep other animals with turtles – fish/frogs that are too large to eat will still be chased about continuously; also it’s difficult to maintain water quality that is suitable for fishes when turtles are present.
Good luck, enjoy and please let me know if you need any more info,
Best regards,
Frank Indiviglio
about 2 years ago
Thanks for getting back to me so soon Frank.
I have an assortment of frozen fish that I feed to my African Clawed Frogs(4 of them soon to be 6) would I be able to feed those to the turtle? I feed my frogs feeder guppies as well but not sure if I want to feed my turtle those yet since I have seen how he eats and I can’t imagine putting that poor fish thru being ripped apart into tiny pieces. Would it be okay to feed him frozen/thawed tilapia, catfish, salmon or silversides? Can they eat mealworms?
What would you guesstimate his age being? Maybe like 3-5 months? I read somewhere that painted are hatched in the end of summer and bury themselves all winter and come out in the spring time? Is this true?
I will just keep my turtle alone then don’t want to add anything just to have it stressed out by the turtle chasing it.
Thanks so much!
Tiffany
about 2 years ago
Hello Tiffany, Frank Indiviglio here.
I was going to raise the messy issue of live fish, but decided to wait and see if you mentioned it – I thought you might! Yes, as you’ve surmised, turtles can be quite savage when catching fish. Use smaller silversides – the \idea is to get the turtle to eat a whole animal rather than bits and pieces (the bones provide calcium, other benefits from internal organs.) Silversides are marine fishes, but I’ve used them long term for turtles w/o problems. Freeze dried shrimp is a good calcium source also – use plenty and you can limit fish to once every 10 days or so. Bits of catfish/Tilapia will also be readily taken. Mealworms are fine as an occ. treat.
There are 4 species of Painted turtles in the USA – in the northern parts of the range, Eastern and Midland, and poss. Western Painted turtles sometimes hatch in fall and emerge in spring; same for snapping turtles, possibly some pother species.
Southern Painteds and others in the south of their ranges generally hatch in spring – captivity may also affect the hatch time; let me know the species you have and perhaps we can narrow it down.
Great to hear of your success with the clawed frogs – another great choice; one of mine reached age 21, and that’s not even the record!
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
Hi Frank
A few days ago our map turtle tore apart the heater in the bottom of her tank. I asked a friend about this and she said it was because we had taken the rocks out, that the turtle needed something to sharpen its beak, are there any benefits to putting the rocks or some amount back in?
Thanks Ashley Williams
about 2 years ago
Hello Ashley,
Interesting question….turtles trim their beaks incidentally, while feeding; as far as we know, they do not specifically chew on things for this purpose, as do parrots and rodents. However, in the wild they are constantly tearing apart plants and rotting branches and moving rocks about in the hopes of finding small creatures to eat. What you are seeing is likely an offshoot of this behavior.
Turtle Bone is a high calcium Cuttlebone product that can be used to divert attention from heaters and filters…it helps keep the beak trimmed and supplies calcium as well. You can also offer leaves of kale, dandelion, romaine and other greens (avoid spinach) with the stems intact. Some map turtles eat this, others will poke through it in hopes of finding a snail or other treat. You can also provide chunks of uncleaned (with outer “shell” in place) shrimp (the type people eat) – turtles love this and crunching up the shell is good for the beak.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
Hi Frank,
After looking online I found that there is only one type of painted turtle that has a stripe on it’s back and that is the southern painted turtle. And my baby has a stripe on his back. So I guess that is what it would be. From what I’ve read they aren’t from where I live in Northern Illinois so I wonder how he got up here.
I have noticed today that he is shedding a little bit on his tail and back legs. Is this normal or should I be worried? What should I do about it?
Also my Mom has crickets that she feeds her gecko and a few of them died today and she is coming over in a few days is that okay to feed to him or is that too long since they died to feed them to him?
That is great that one of your clawed frogs reached the age of 21! I know a few people whos clawed frogs are in their mid 20s! All of mine are around a year old so it seems like I have a LONG time left with them!
about 2 years ago
Hello Tiffany, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the feedback.
Yes, sounds like a Southern…interesting if it was collected locally. There are introduced populations (released pets) outside the natural range (they interbreed with other painted turtle species), but I wouldn’t think it could survive the northern Illinois winters (nor could I!). However, some species that hibernate for only short periods are able to adjust to longer winters, red eared sliders get by in Canada!
Turtles eat long-dead insects in the wild, but better not to use the crickets.
Some shedding is normal – if it continues for more than a week or so, let me know; keep an eye out for fungus (gray/white patches), but this is not common.
The published longevity for a southern painted is appx. 30 years, but I’m sure they have a longer potential lifespan – so plan ahead!
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.