Surinam Toads (Pipa pipa) as Pets, Part III: Diet and Feeding Techniques
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Surinam toads are well known for their bizarre reproductive strategy (please see article below), unusual appearance, large size and unique habitats. They make very interesting pets but, as most in the trade are wild-caught, present a few problems when first introduced into the aquarium. Last time we took a look at establishing the new Surinam toad and helping it to make the adjustment to captive life (Surinam Toads (Pipa pipa) as Pets: Acclimating New Animals and Special Considerations). Today I'll take a look at their dietary needs.
A Live Food Specialist
Surinam toads will take live food (or food moved before them as if alive) only. Their favorites are earthworms, blackworms and small fishes such as guppies, platys, swordtails, mollies, minnows and shiners. Use goldfish no more than once each month, and vary the species fed as much as is possible.
Feeding Techniques and Cautions
You can leave fishes in with the frog, as it will likely feed only at night until it has acclimated. Be sure to adjust the fishes to your aquarium's water temperature (float bag for 20 minutes) so that the frogs do not contract Ick or other diseases that might be transmitted from stressed fishes (also, fishes are more likely to be consumed if they swim about normally).
When using earthworms, introduce them to the tank at night (foe newly acquired frogs). Worms usually survive for 8 hours or so underwater, but add only 1 at first and make sure to remove it in the AM if uneaten.
As mentioned in Part I of this article, Surinam toads often swallow gravel while feeding and are best kept in bare-bottomed aquariums. This is a special concern when using earthworms, which are taken right off the substrate, and blackworms, which burrow into it. If you use substrate, avoid feeding blackworms and offer earthworms from a plastic feeding tong.
Introducing Canned Shrimp and Snails
Well-habituated Surinam toads will consume prawn and other non-living food items that are dropped so as to land directly in front of their mouths. Start your frog off with live food, but after awhile try using canned shrimp and snails to provide dietary variety.
Composition of the Diet
I have kept and bred Surinam toads for a number of years using a diet comprised of approximately 75% fish (platys, guppies, mollies, minnows, shiners and occasional goldfish) and earthworms, with the balance of their food intake consisting of blackworms and shrimp.
Further Reading
Please see Breeding A Skin-Brooding Amphibian: the Surinam Toad (Pipa pipa) to read about captive reproduction of this fascinating animal.
You can learn about the other aquatic species in the family to which this frog belongs (Pipidae) at
Please write in with your comments and questions. Thanks, until next time, Frank Indiviglio.
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November 1st, 2009 at 6:32 pm
my large female pipa has like cartlige spots on here and wont eat what the f is the this ? ick looks clear like slimy this looks weird help me somebody
November 2nd, 2009 at 8:50 am
Hello Marcus, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Please write back with more specific information concerning the frog’s symptoms and also some details concerning the aquarium – size, temperature, pH and I’ll do my best to provide some advice.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
November 5th, 2009 at 4:36 am
she sick and wont eat she has white like cartlide spots on here like here skin is rotting off what do i do shes going to die she a big healthy female but she dont look good now
November 5th, 2009 at 4:38 am
its a 24 gal nano cube its at 80 now but got a little cold when the temp dropped im running out of time
November 5th, 2009 at 10:09 am
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Bacteria and fungal infections are common in Surinam toads, and cause the symptoms you describe. The best treatment you can provide at home is Methylene Blue (available at most pet stores); this is used in the water and absorbed through the skin. You can use it at the strength recommended on the bottle for fishes. Keep the frog in it for 2 days, longer if needed. At this point, however, the infection may be difficult to treat – unfortunately, it is likely that the frog will not survive. If you have access to a veterinarian who treats amphibians, I would suggest a visit.
Skin infections usually take hold in times of stress (temperature change, not enough cover for the frog, shipping) and if the water quality is poor. Surinam toads produce a great deal of waste – ammonia needs to be monitored and water changes, even with filtration, are important.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
November 5th, 2009 at 10:13 am
A long, lower tank, along the lines of a “20 Long”, would be preferable, as Surinam toads spend most of their time on the bottom. 78 F is ideal, but I wouldn’t make any changes right now, as this would further stress the frog.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
November 5th, 2009 at 3:57 pm
i got some of that ick treatment i dont know what else to do i dont want to take to a vet theyll just charge me more than than frog is worth it ticks me of i dont know what to do. its called maracide. i took to long to get the heater i guess i have alot of exotic pets but only got the aquatic ones this year
November 5th, 2009 at 5:33 pm
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
The disease we term “ick” is actually a parasitic infection, unrelated to your frog’s condition. If you will not be bringing the frog to a veterinarian, then Methylene Blue, as suggested earlier, and not Maracide, is your best treatment option.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
November 5th, 2009 at 11:24 pm
Well thats just prime. So its been a week do they sell this at petsmart or a pet store.
November 5th, 2009 at 11:56 pm
the pets stores around here now days dont know what a pipa frog is aint that great when i called they were like what a paper frog ???
November 6th, 2009 at 10:43 am
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Most stores sell Methylene Blue, it’s a common tropical fish medication. Best to begin treatment as soon as possible.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
November 6th, 2009 at 10:52 am
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Surinam toads are still not well known in the trade; most are wild caught as adults, which adds to the difficulties in keeping them healthy. They are interesting, but are not the best aquatic frogs to start with.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
November 6th, 2009 at 2:02 pm
tropical treasures got it how do i treat her just pour in the water or what ? its in phoenix where i live , petsmart and petco dont carry it
November 6th, 2009 at 2:27 pm
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Please see my response to your earlier question, posted yesterday morning, re treatment details.
Good luck and please be in touch if you need further information,
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
November 6th, 2009 at 3:17 pm
i got the treatment i gave her a dip how often should i do it ???
November 6th, 2009 at 10:01 pm
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Sorry if my earlier note was unclear…use at the dosage recommended for fish. You can keep the frog in Methylene Blue for 2-3 days (it will stain the frog’s skin), or longer if you see no improvement. After 4 days, do at least a ½ water change and add a methylene blue as recommended on the bottle to the newly added water. Again, in a well-advanced case of Septicemia-like infections, treatment with or without veterinary intervention is difficult.
Usually, we start with ½ the fish dose when medicating amphibians, but best to go full strength in your case; I’ve used Methylene Blue full strength in emergency situations as well.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
November 7th, 2009 at 3:23 pm
she died i wanna new one though could i get a new one and i already got the treatment is that fungus still in my fish tank now i could use that stuff at first sighn i didnt get the stuff till it was to late
November 7th, 2009 at 5:37 pm
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Yes, the fungus and bacteria are in the tank and filter. Please see my last post for information concerning disinfection.
As mentioned, I would not recommend getting another Surinam toad as it will likely have been collected along with the one that just expired and may become ill as well. Wild caught Surinam toads are very delicate; fecal samples should be analyzed by a veterinarian to determine what parasites are present.
If, as is likely, a skin infection takes hold, you would also need to bring the animal to a veterinarian. Home treatment is not nearly as effective; catching the condition earlier would not make a great deal of difference in this case. There are a number of other issues involving water quality which would need to be addressed as well. Wild caught or sensitive amphibians really should not be kept if access to an experienced veterinarian is not available.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
November 8th, 2009 at 8:09 pm
sorry to bug you so then do you think i should just pour the methylene blue in the aquaruim then ?
November 8th, 2009 at 10:30 pm
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
No trouble at all…yes, you can add the Methylene Blue to the tank as per dosage on bottle, then allow to sit (run filter) for 2-3 days. Then empty and clean as mentioned last time. Be careful – MB stains skin and clothes, plastice.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
November 9th, 2009 at 1:51 am
i put the methylene blue in the tank its a nano cube tank then after three days do i drain the whole tank and clean it or what ? i had anachris in there alot of it too that stuff will kill the plants right ? the tank looked clean and i had snails in there ?
November 9th, 2009 at 8:46 pm
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Yes, drain and clean as described earlier….the fungi/bacteria are microscopic so appearance is not a good guide as to cleanliness.
Best to re-locate the plants and snails if possible, some species survive, others do not.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
November 19th, 2009 at 4:40 am
should i clean the aquarium every couple months or so maybe few ??? so no bacteria ??? i gotta ph and ammonia gauge and heater for all my aquatic pets
November 19th, 2009 at 2:38 pm
Hello Marcus, Frank Indiviglio here.
The bacteria that causes the type of ailment your frog experienced is almost impossible to eliminate, as it is present in most environments. But by doing partial water changes, keeping ammonia in check and filtering well, you can keep the frog’s immune system in good shape, so that it can fight off common microbes. No need to drop and clean the aquarium unless there is a health problem.
Experience in caring for tropical fish is very useful in keeping aquatic frogs. A basic aquarium care book, especially the water quality sections, might prove useful to you.
However, as mentioned earlier, wild caught Surinam toads will always harbor parasites as well, and these may cause problems in captivity regardless of how clean the tank is kept. In zoos, we usually run fecal tests on all wild-caught animals, and medicate them for various parasites. If you d not have access to an experienced amphibian veterinarian, I would not suggest that you buy Surinam toads, unless you can locate a source of captive born young (very rare). African clawed frogs and dwarf African clawed frogs are far better choices, as far as aquatic frogs go.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.