Thanks for your interest in our blog.

There are good points to both. The extra volume of the 40 hex will act as insurance against spikes in ammonia and other water quality issues, and may allow for a more powerful filter. However, if you are careful with water quality, especially ammonia, then the 20 long provides more usable area (the frog will spend most of it’s time on the bottom of the tank) for the animal. The 40 hex might be useful should you decide to try your hand at breeding – they actually need more depth than afforded by a 40, but breeding has sometimes been successful in shallow aquariums.

Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Very interesting animals…I’ll check around for info,

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

I hope it turns out well for the Surinam toad.

Great to hear that you are interested in caecilians, we need more work on them. I’ve only kept and bred one species long term, the commonly seen T. natans…here is a link to an article I wrote on that species: http://blogs.thatpetplace.com/thatfishblog/2009/10/21/amphibians-masquerading-as-fish-notes-on-the-rubber-eel/.

I’ve had a few interesting terrestrial species pass through my hands – mostly “extras” tossed into shipments heading for the Bronx Zoo as an afterthought; unfortunately, most arrived in poor shape and none fared very well.

Gymnophiona.org would be a good place to look, if you have not already; links to books, etc. as well as some people who may have worked with the species you keep.

I may be able to find out some info from zoo contacts…Detroit Zoo had been planning to expand their collection at one point; please let me know the species that you have.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Nice to hear from you again.

The adult Surinam toads in the trade are invariably wild-caught, and will be hosting a number of potentially harmful micro-organisms. Those that get sick even when, as in your situation, they are given proper care, usually do so because their immune systems are weakened by the stress of capture and shipment. Parasites and bacteria that are normally kept under control by the immune system then become problematical.

Even microorganisms that are always present in the environment (i.e. even in pristine aquariums) can cause fatal infections when the immune system is weakened. I often cite an example from my time working with birds in zoos. Long term, well-adjusted captives moved from one exhibit to another (a stressful event) often come down with serious/fatal Aspergillosus infections…this fungi is ever-present, and causes no harm at all under normal circumstances.

Another problem in captivity is re-infection by parasites. Those that need a second host (i.e. a snail) will die out, but some can re-infect the frogs directly; these can build up high populations in an aquarium.

It’s very individual – last month I coordinated a shipment of 12 adults Surinam toads for a public aquarium, all collected from the same river – 5 are now being treated for bacterial infections, the rest are fine.

In addition to excellent water quality, you can assist the frogs in adjusting by providing lots of cover – they don’t use caves much, but prefer to push under artificial or live plants. For some, I’ve covered most of the glass with black cloths – in any event, 3 sides should be covered early on (being exposed on all sides is stressful for nearly all animals – a solid wall/background is always a good idea). You may want to secure a cloth on the inner side of the screen top as well – they tend to jump at night, and injured snouts become infected right away.

A methylene blue bath might be a good idea for new imports – fecal tests, if feasible, are a good idea also, although treatment must be considered carefully. I can refer you to amphibian experienced vets if need be.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Thanks for your interest in our blog.

I’ve seen what you describe often; usually an Aeromonas or Pseudomonas bacterium is responsible; similar or the same as those responsible for conditions described as “red leg”, Septicemia, etc. Fungi, such as Saprolegnia, often invade the wounds opportunistically as well. It’s highly contagious, so quarantine is required.

I’ve had some success with Methylene Blue; please see the article Methylene Blue as an Amphibian Treatment Option for details. You can start at the full fish dose, as Surinam toads handle it well, and a soak time of 2 hours per day. Since the condition is advanced, keep methylene blue in its regular aquarium as well (use ½ the fish dose for this).

Results have been mixed – a visit to an experienced vet would be preferable, as the infection is invariably fatal is not halted, and prescription meds are sometimes effective.

Surinam toads have always surprised me by the amount of ammonia they produce in comparison to other large frogs. Keep an eye on the other animal and check your ammonia. Frequent partial water changes are always necessary with these guys, even with optimal filtration.

Good luck and please keep me posted.