Breeding Emperor Scorpions
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Please see Part I and II of this article for information on scorpion natural history and further details on emperor scorpion care.
The captive reproduction of emperor scorpions is a most interesting endeavor (for hobbyists and, I imagine, the scorpions themselves!). When properly housed and cared for, emperor scorpions are relatively easy to breed. This is surprising, given that they are such unique and highly specialized creatures, and is an opportunity that should not be missed. Many prominent invertebrate specialists started out with this species...keeping them is a wonderful way of becoming involved in invertebrate husbandry, and will almost certainly "hook" you for good.
Distinguishing the Sexes
In captivity, as within certain parts of the natural range, mating may occur during any month. Adult females are longer and stouter than males, but this is not a reliable means of distinguishing the sexes.
There are some slight differences in the shape of the genital openings. View the scorpions from below, in a clear plastic box, when attempting to sex in this manner - do not restrain them via hand or tongs. Photos of the undersides of male and female emperor scorpions are posted at http://www.pandinusimperator.nl/EN/biology_EN.htm.
Courtship and Mating
Reproduction is most likely to occur if your scorpions are housed in a large terrarium that provides ample burrowing opportunities. All species studied thus far perform a "mating dance", with the pair locking claws and moving about. It is theorized that this helps to clear a patch of ground for the deposition of the males' sperm packet. I imagine, but have not been able to determine for sure, that the specific dance "moves" also aid in species' recognition among these nearly blind creatures (this is the case in "dancing" scorpion relatives, such as jumping spiders).
The male deposits a sperm packet on the ground and pulls the female over it (it is tempting here to draw analogies to salamander reproduction). Hooks along the edges of the sperm packet latch onto the female's genital opening, and the eggs are then fertilized internally.
Gestation and Birth
Gestation is highly variable, ranging from 7-10 months on average but sometimes exceeding 1 year. It is likely that stress, temperature and other factors play a role in determining the length of the gestation period.
Females continue to feed while gravid, and may swell noticeably...when viewed from above, the carapace segments appear widely spaced, and seem ready to split apart (heavily-fed scorpions of either sex, however, may also appear gravid).
The young (sometimes called "scorplings"), 8-30 in number, are born alive and measure about 5/8 of an inch in length. They are white in color and remain on the female's back until their first moult, at which time they darken and begin to venture off on their own. Once this occurs, they will readily accept ½ inch crickets, small waxworms, newly molted mealworms, wild-caught insects and canned silkworms.
Maternal Care of the Young
Female emperor scorpions feed their young with finely-shredded insects - this really is something to see. By all means, try to do so by viewing yours at night with the aid of an incandescent "nocturnal" bulb. The degree of care they provide to their young is extraordinary, and is far greater than one might expect from such supposedly "primitive" creatures. Even among those scorpions that exhibit social behavior, emperors stand out as being very advanced in this regard.
Caring for the Mother and Her Brood
Once the female has given birth, all other scorpions should be removed from the terrarium, as she will become highly aggressive and defensive. Do not relocate the mother...this inevitably stresses her and may cause her to consume her young.
Females with young react aggressively to any disturbance, even occasionally grabbing and eating scorplings that become dislodged from their backs. This is not an uncommon occurrence - do not remove the remaining young unless she begins eating them regularly, as the overall survival rate is improved when clutches are reared with their mother. I have raised several clutches to adulthood with the mother present - the key lies in disturbing her as little as possible and in providing a deep, secure burrow.
I usually raise the terrarium's temperature to 85-90 F when rearing young emperor scorpions - this may not be essential, but I have found it to work well.
Sexual maturity in the wild is reportedly reached in 4-7 years, but captives may breed when only 12-14 months of age. Emperor scorpions under my care have reproduced at age 3 and 4 years.
Several other scorpions may be maintained and bred in much the same manner as the emperor scorpion. Next time I'll post a short note highlighting one of these - the Asian forest scorpion, and will also address a species from a very different habitat type, the huge South African rock scorpion. Until then, please write in with your questions and comments. Thanks, frank Indiviglio.
The Woodland Park Zoo provides interesting information on emperor and other scorpions in nature and captivity at:
http://www.zoo.org/factsheets/scorpion/scorpion.html
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April 25th, 2009 at 3:41 pm
I have two females and one big male
and i have been trying to breed them but they seem to just fight.
should i make a seprate tank for the females and try agen later. Thank you
April 25th, 2009 at 4:42 pm
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Courtship does look a lot like fighting, with the pair locking claws and spinning about. However, if it appears to be true aggression, than it would be best to separate them for the time being…the larger animal could very well kill the smaller ones when they molt and are in a soft, vulnerable condition.
Perhaps the females are not yet sexually mature…usually, but not always, adult females are longer and more heavily-built than males. Allow the females to establish burrows in a new tank and wait until they put on some size. When trying again, introduce the male to their terrarium.
Please keep me posted on your progress.
Enjoy your scorpions, Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
April 28th, 2009 at 4:02 pm
hi within 1 year how many times an emperor scorpion can give birth or can be breeed?
April 28th, 2009 at 8:10 pm
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Emperor scorpions have, for invertebrates, very long gestation periods…8 to 12 months on average, and so give birth only once each year.
Diet, terrarium and burrow design, temperature and humidity levels all likely play a role in determining the actual interval between births, but I’m not aware of any examples of gestation periods shorter than 7 months in length.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
May 16th, 2009 at 11:29 am
my scorpion reproduced a sexually. i have seen nothing on the internet about this. i have had my scorpion for a little more than a year now, and it hasnt been around any other scorions since i got it well over a year ago.
May 16th, 2009 at 12:26 pm
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the most interesting comment.
We have a great deal to learn about scorpion reproduction…based on what we do know, there are a few possible explanations for what you have observed.
Gestation in emperor scorpions is very long…while it typically lasts from 7-10 months, birth may occur over a year (exactly how long is not known) from the time of mating. Stress is a primary factor – females of certain fishes (i.e. guppies) and invertebrates are able to somehow suspend birth for a time if they perceive a threat. In the case of the scorpion, collection, shipment and adjustment to a new environment and diet could all be involved. Temperature, humidity, nutrition and other factors can also play a role.
Many invertebrates, fishes, herps and even mammals can store sperm…in the most extreme case known, a single mating allows queens of certain termite species to produce young for up to 20 years! Sperm storage is a very real possibility as regards emperor scorpions, but has not been definitively proven as far as I know.
Finally, we have true asexual reproduction. This is known to occur even in a few vertebrates (Brahminy blind snakes, many fishes, whip-tailed lizards) and is very intriguing. Please keep me posted as to future births… your observations might prove very helpful in learning more about emperor scorpion reproduction. I’ll be sure to pass along your notes to others working on this species, and will report back on this blog.
Enjoy and good luck,
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
June 13th, 2009 at 11:25 pm
hi there
my emperor scorpion gave birth to about 16 infants
they are now 12 days old and are nw only 8 left as mum has been eating them
they have not had there fiirst molt yet but can i take them away from her to save what is left?
if so how do i cae for them?
many many thanks to yo all
June 14th, 2009 at 9:38 am
Hello Ric, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Some females just seem to do that no matter what, although stress is often a factor. If she is set up in a good environment – a tank with a deep substrate into which she can burrow and plenty of room, and is not disturbed by lights or people, then your best option would be to remove all the young.
If her tank is not ideal, you might try giving her more room and cover, and then leaving her with a few young and removing the others, but it would be risky (the change to a better environment is still a stress).
You can set the young up as you do adults, but keep them damper as they will be shedding more frequently and also may have less control over moisture loss. Be sure to provide a deep substrate and lots of ground covering…driftwood, cork bark, caves – to break up the area and prevent cannibalism (not common, but they molt often and are defenseless at that time).
Start them off on ¼ inch crickets. You’ll need to overload the tank with crickets, as the young are not good at catching them at first (try tong feeding if necessary). 1/4 inch crickets should not be a problem re attacking newly-molted scorpions. It might be a good idea to provide the crickets with some food and water, or a slice of orange, when many are at large in the tank.
The scorpions will not likely feed until after their first molt.
Good luck and please keep me posted on your progress. This is a common problem but we still do not have a good handle on perfect solutions…your observations will be most useful to myself and others, so please write back when time permits.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
June 14th, 2009 at 12:53 pm
just to add to my story, i too was not aware my scorpion was pregnant
i have had her almost 14 months now alone. but whn she was in the petshop she was in with many others so maybe thats when she had her bit of fruity time!!!
just took babies away from her and she is not very happy!!
going to try feed them some cut up worm thiings that yo get in tubs of crickets.
will keep you posted
thanks agaiin
June 14th, 2009 at 3:05 pm
Hello Ric, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for the feedback.
Actually, that’s a very interesting observation you have there. Emperor scorpion gestation periods vary quite a bit, and it hasn’t really been quantified whether long gestations or sperm storage (or, possibly, parthenogenesis) are at work. I suspect sperm storage, based upon your and my own experiences. Most resources put an outside limit of 12 months for emperor scorpion gestation.
I’ll file the information and let you know what else turns up.
The insects you note in the cricket boxes are the larvae of beetles in the Genus Dermestes. Commonly known as museum beetles, colonies are still maintained by most major museums for the final stages of skeleton/bone cleaning…to date, nothing we can come up with surpasses them! No harm in trying, but most species are covered with tiny irritating hairs that repel predators. Please let me know how it works out.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
June 27th, 2009 at 7:01 am
I was wondering if there is any way of telling how old my scorpion is I bought him about a month or so ago maybe longer I have read alot of intresting facts that have been posted on here actually the first site that I have found that is informing if there is any way of telling how old he is that would be great to know thanks
June 27th, 2009 at 10:13 am
Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your kind words and interest in our blog.
Unfortunately, there isn’t any reliable way of estimating an emperor scorpion’s age. Size and age at sexual maturity are greatly affected by diet, both in the wild and captivity. Also, scorpions living in different parts of the natural range vary as to size, so the origin of your specimen’s ancestors will have an effect as well.
Please let me know if you need any further information.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
July 2nd, 2009 at 12:35 am
I first off want to thank you on the quick responce on my last question.. I as well have another question about feeding my emperor. Is it ok to thaw out a pinky mouse n feed it to him or does it have to be alive? And how about june bugs or june beetles which ever you call them. also on meal worms when they are the adult mealworms can they eat through the stomach of my scorpion if the head are not crushed? That is all I have to ask for now.. Thank Ya Much…
July 2nd, 2009 at 5:39 pm
Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here. You’re quite welcome, I’m glad the information was of use to you.
Actually, emperor scorpions do not need to eat pink mice or any other vertebrates. Field research has shown that there diet is composed entirely of invertebrates, and this is what their digestive systems have evolved to deal with most effectively. Certainly I scorpion might on occasion stumble across a rodent nest in the wild, but this would be an extremely rare event. In no case should a live mouse ever be given to a scorpion – their venom is not designed to subdue such creatures and hence the mouse would suffer unnecessarily if the scorpion did attack it. I understand that this is common practice in some circles, but such is for the benefit (?) of those doing the feeding, not the scorpion…vertebrates are never used in zoos or professional collections.
Dietary variety is, however important…this is easily accomplished by tong-feeding canned invertebrates (snails, grasshoppers, silkworms) to the scorpion, or by collecting native insects. The June bugs you mention are fine, as long as they are collected from a pesticide free area.
Mealworms are not a concern and may be fed to scorpions. The “head crushing” idea might be useful for animals which swallow their prey whole and alive, i.e. frogs, and then only in certain situations. Scorpions masticate prey beforehand, killing the animal before or as it is consumed. Super mealworms, or newly molted “regular mealworms” (white in color, are your best choice as their chitin content is fairly low.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio
July 3rd, 2009 at 3:03 am
Ok thanks for that info. Spike is doin great he is very active at night not every night just every other night. When I gut load my crickets is it ok to do it with a home made gut load and every once in a while dust the crickets with other vits. or should I just dust n not gut load or gut load and not dust. Sorry for all the questions I just dont want nothing to happen to my scorpion due to me not being well educated about him. Thanks Again!!
July 3rd, 2009 at 3:10 am
OH!! I forgot is it ok to use a regular 40 watt light bulb as a heat source. I do keep it dark in his cage. Well Not pitch black but its dark. I was just wondering if that bulb would hurt him any. Also I have like 3 hides in his cage would it be ok if I were to put a female in with him? Ok thats all for now im sure ill have more later.. Thanks
July 3rd, 2009 at 11:57 am
Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here. Nice to hear from you again.
We know very little about the actual nutritional requirements of scorpions, and so must rely on what has been shown to work over the years. It’s always a good idea to feed and gut load crickets. There are a number of ways to do this – cricket gut-loading products are very convenient, or you can use tropical fish flakes along with a variety of fruits and vegetables.
I powder crickets once weekly for adult scorpions, 2-3x for youngsters, most often using Reptivite. Variety is very important…include the insects you mentioned last time, and offer canned invertebrates as well.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
July 3rd, 2009 at 12:27 pm
Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your feedback…glad to see that you are so concerned about your scorpion’s welfare, and are covering all the most important points.
A 40 wt. incandescent bulb is fine as a daytime heat source, as long as you check that it does not dry out the substrate. For nighttime heating, a reptile night-viewing bulb is preferable. Scorpions do not sense the light emitted from these, and so will not be disturbed during their normal activity period. These bulbs will also allow you to observe your scorpions when they are most active.
Male-female relations are (as with us!) complicated and variable. You’ll need to watch them closely for awhile. Having numerous hides and a deep substrate for burrowing, as well as lots of driftwood etc. to break up the habitat, is important when keeping multiple scorpions in the same terrarium.
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
July 7th, 2009 at 11:04 am
My sister found a texas bark scorpion or a stipped bark scorpion in her house are they highly venumous or are they harmless.. I got it here at my house now she cought it and brought it to me just wonderin how are they to care for or is it somethin i should get rid of? I kinda wanna keep him just dont know much about them any info would be nice thank ya much
July 7th, 2009 at 11:25 am
Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.
Nice to hear from you again and glad that you wrote in, as you raise an important point.
It’s very difficult even for experts to identify some of the smaller scorpions native to the American Southwest…colors vary within a species and by age, etc. Also, especially in Texas, there is always the possibility of a non-native species turning up from Mexico or via the pet trade. Some are quite toxic, and we know little about the actual functioning of their venom, which complicates treatment. There is also always the very real possibility of a serious and/or fatal sensitivity to the venom on the part of the person who is stung.
I strongly urge you to release the animal or turn it over to a local zoo or museum, and commend you for talking the trouble to ask.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
July 8th, 2009 at 10:00 am
Well I took your advice and took that scorpion that was found to a few people and let them take a look at it.. and they both told me that it was a Centruroides vittatus… they said that it does pack a painfull sting but not deadly.. but possible deadly to younger kids or older people.. being that i do have young nieces i went ahead and let him go at the river.. i dont believe on want nothin happing to them due to my facination with scorpions.. thanks for your info about it.. and what do you think would help my sister with controlin them scorpions around her house she has found 2 of them in her house n the past week or soo.. thanks again and sorry for the misspelled words..
July 8th, 2009 at 2:37 pm
Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for getting back to me…sometimes people write in after having collected scorpions and venomous snakes and then fail to follow-up (which I assume means they kept the creature, or had a mishap).
You made the right decision…that’s not a species you want to have around if possible, especially as they are such adept escape artists. I’ve had small Middle Eastern species escape even from zoo exhibits…and with the common name of “death stalker”, believe me they caused a stressful situation!
Unfortunately, other than sealing cracks and all there’s not much that can be done to dissuade scorpions from entering a home…they can squeeze through very tight places. Most don’t care to cross wide, open areas, so clearing brush and plants, lawn furniture etc. from between the nearest cover and the house may help somewhat. It’s very important that adults stress to children that they must bang their shoes hard on the floor before putting them on… scorpions hidden in shoes account for the majority of stings recorded. I have found 2 that way, as well as a huge centipede, while on field research (so I still bang my shoes, even when in NYC!) Clothes, even those taken from closets or drawers, should be shaken well before wearing.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
July 10th, 2009 at 12:47 pm
quick question if anyone is around
I think my scorpion is gravid and has been for some months now but from time to time she limps her tail for extended periods…almost an entire day in some cases…she still gets around but has been getting worse..
any ides?
July 10th, 2009 at 1:52 pm
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Unfortunately we know very little about what sort of medical problems afflict scorpions, or how to treat them. However, gravid females have the ability to delay giving birth if environmental conditions are not ideal, or if other sources of stress are present. If this goes on for to look, it could possibly lead to physical problems, perhaps including that which you have described (I have seen something similar, once, in another species).
If you have not already done so, I suggest providing her with a deep substrate and ample hiding spots and ground cover. Be sure that temperature and humidity levels are optimal, and disturb her as little as possible. Keep the terrarium in a secluded location if possible, and avoid turning on room or terrarium lights at night. If you wish to check on her after dark, I suggest using a night-viewing bulb, as such will not be perceived by the scorpion.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
July 11th, 2009 at 5:28 pm
i was just wondering this time is it normal for an emperor scorpion to suddenly become aggressive.. because mine has become very aggressive for some reason and also not eating as much i was just wondering if you might have any ideas what might be the problem his cage has 3 hides the substrate is almost 5 inches deep has water bowl it is just him in there as well it stays 80 – 82 % humidity very warm umm i really dont know what could be the problem like i said any ideas would be great thanks
July 11th, 2009 at 5:59 pm
Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.
I have observed that, but always while dealing with large numbers of scorpions at the zoo…I assumed that a gravid female might become aggressive and cease feeding…made sense but unfortunately I was never able to keep close watch and follow up.
Another possibility could be some sort of disturbance – they are very sensitive to air vibrations and react strongly to vibrations from certain machinery, even, some say, to barometric pressure changes i.e. before a storm (this is common in many herps as well…alligators will bellow a day or 2 before a storm front).
Sorry I cannot offer anything more useful…please let me know if you learn anything new, or have any ideas.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
July 11th, 2009 at 7:09 pm
is it ok to leave a black light on an emperor or is it not a good idea
July 11th, 2009 at 10:02 pm
Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.
Good question…scorpions seem not to notice black light, even though they fluoresce under it and it would seem logical that this has some survival adaptation. I kept emperor scorpions in an exhibit at the Bronx Zoo that allowed visitors to hit a switch and turn on a black light (or old style Vita-light). I did not observe the scorpions to change their behavior at all, despite the fact that the light was going on and off incessantly all day long (many visitors, for reasons I could never understand, seemed more interested in the “bells and whistles” than the animals themselves). At night, when the zoo closed, the exhibit was brightly lit so as to give the scorpions a somewhat natural day/night cycle.
Reptile night viewing lights similarly seem not to register on scorpions or affect their behavior.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
July 11th, 2009 at 11:35 pm
so it is ok to leave the the black light on him at night it gets kinda bright n the house when its day time so if they cant sence the black light at night it will seem dark to him also about them striped bark scorpions my sister has found out that she has an infestation she found 6 more n her daughters bathroom and 1 in her shower she brought them to me and only 2 of them made it to the house but i think they are very interesting to watch i plan to release them at the same spot as the other one but they act way differant from my emperor also how do i keep mite out of my emperors cage i think they are n it little white bug comeing out of his water bowl any ideas on how to control them
July 12th, 2009 at 10:14 am
Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.
You can leave the black light on at night if it helps you to see the scorpion, but I don’t believe it provides any benefit to the scorpion itself…they have not been shown to need any sort of light in order to remain healthy, other than a normal day/night cycle.
As you noticed with the native species, scorpions do indeed follow a great many different lifestyles, depending on their habitats, sizes, food preferences etc. Some never leave the rainforest canopy, others dwell miles below ground and never emerge from caves, etc. and all behave differently.
The white mites that are often seen in scorpion terrariums appear harmless, and are likely of many different species, but similar to the eye. They enter as eggs along with substrate, wood etc. and are not known to parasitize scorpions, but rather feed upon feces, dead crickets and other organic material. If huge populations build up, they may stress the scorpion by crawling over it, or, in rare cases, by nibbling on newly molted scorpions.
Freezing substrate before use may help, as does picking up dead insects and such. Mites are prone to desiccation, so in planted terrariums that cannot be stripped you can relocate the scorpion and allow the substrate to dry. Zoo Med Terrarium Cleaner and hot water can be used on wood, water bowls, etc.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
July 12th, 2009 at 1:00 pm
hi there frank i was wondering if there was a way i could send u a photo of the scorpions my sister has around her house and get your opinion about them
July 12th, 2009 at 3:31 pm
Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.
You can email photos to me at findiviglio@thatpetplace.com.
Scorpions are difficult to ID by photo, especially individuals collected from areas where many species occur…often one needs to check the shape of the chelicerae, arrangement of telson segments and so on. However, I can forward the photos to a colleague who is more knowledgeable than I if need be.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
July 12th, 2009 at 4:03 pm
alright i just sent u a few photos sorry if they are not very clear im not much of a photographer
July 12th, 2009 at 7:29 pm
Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Well, based on body shape alone (color varies a great deal) it does appear to be in the genus Centruroides…many of which are quite toxic, especially to children and elderly or immune compromised people. Over 20 species of scorpions inhabit Texas, and some of the more dangerous ones are extremely difficult to tell apart.
The most commonly encountered species, especially in homes, is the striped bark scorpion, C. vittatus (which I believe someone mentioned to you as a possibility after looking one over?). That could be hat you have, but again there are others that resemble it. C. vittatus is not considered dangerously venomous, but individual sensitivities must be considered. I’ve sent the photos off to a colleague and will get back to you as soon as I have more news.
As I mentioned, keeping a home scorpion-free can be quite difficult. You may want to contact your State Department of Environmental Protection (Dept. of Wildlife, etc.) for suggestions. Once you have their input, you can contact an exterminator if they so advise.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
July 16th, 2009 at 8:51 pm
Ok I just wanted to update you on my sisters scorpion problem… She has used Demon WP and she has not had any problem in the past few days… before she used it she was finding them every day but Im going to guess that the stuff she has used has helped… Well just wanted to tell you that.. And I also took some time and took that scorpion that she found to the Tyler Tx. Zoo and they have confirmed that is was just a stripped bark scorpion… Just as you and your colleague have discovered by the pictures I sent you.. Also I found out that it is rather easy to unknowingly breed crickets in you scorpions cage… I looked in my emperor’s cage this morning to clean his water and other messes that he had made… And discoverd almost 100 if not more baby crickets…. Should I seperate them from my scorpion or are they harmless to him? Thanks
July 16th, 2009 at 10:03 pm
Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks very much for the update. Glad your sister found something that works…I’ll keep that product name on file, in case someone else writes in.
I appreciate your letting me know that the folks at Tyler confirmed the scorpion’s ID. Is that Caldwell Zoo? I missed it my last time in Texas, would like to see their native fish/herp exhibit in the future. Texas has some zoos with great herp collections and very knowledgeable people working there – Fort Worth is a favorite of mine.
I’ve seen striped scorpions in such a variety of shades and patterns; it’s good to have the photos that you sent for reference in the future. The striped scorpion gets further east than some of the similar species (my friend collects them in Louisiana) – I think it gets very complicated in West Texas, however, as there many more types there.
Its funny how that works with crickets, isn’t it? It’s pretty difficult to breed them in colonies, as adults eat any eggs they find. But in a terrarium, where there is more room and deeper substrate, sometimes it works out. I once had a self-sustaining group in an exhibit housing cottonmouths, anoles and green treefrogs…made for a very lively exhibit. They shouldn’t bother the scorpion, although as they get larger it might not be a good idea to have so many in there at molting time. You can easily lure them into a baited jar if you want to remove some.
Thanks again, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
July 18th, 2009 at 1:53 am
Yea I believe it is the Caldwell Zoo…
July 18th, 2009 at 12:55 pm
Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks very much, I’ve heard good things about that zoo.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
July 22nd, 2009 at 1:19 am
Hi Frank … I had emperor scorpions years ago, and have just recently picked up a new pair. Happy to add them to my menagerie!
I’ve set them up in what I think is a 15-gallon terrarium (rather flattened and elongated), with a nice deep soil substrate for burrowing, and several bark hiding places. I’d like to add some small plants, preferably something native to their African rainforest home, but I’m open to other species too. Any small tropical plants you would recommend which will do well under a fluorescent light and damp substrate?
July 22nd, 2009 at 7:21 pm
Hello Raksha, Frank Indiviglio here.
Nice to hear from you again.
The Snake Plant (Sansevieria trifasciata) is native to West African, within the range of the emperor scorpion, and does very well in damp to wet substrate and moderate light levels. It is readily available, and the leaves are sturdy and able to stand up to scorpions and other terrarium animals. It does grow tall, however, and is difficult to prune due to the nature of the leaves. In low light, however, it grows very slowly.
Cast Iron Plants, Earth Stars and Chinese Evergreens also do fine in scorpion terrariums, but are not native to West Africa.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
July 23rd, 2009 at 3:42 am
I have owned four black emporer scorpions. The origional two fought alot at first but eventually warmed up to each other. A male and a female. It seemed that the female got sick. She started looking plump, dragging her body. She ate ALOT at first aswell. She would eat four or five crickets in one day sometimes. It looked as if she had even been eating the dirt alot when there was food in the cage. What happened to her? She died. I replaced her and had my old male and my new female living together. The male became extremely sedentary after a while. He was sooo active for the first month or so. He eventually stopped depending himself and slept all the time. He would let the new female crawl all over him. He died within about six months of me getting him. withing a month my origional female dying. I had got the origional female about two months prior of getting my prigional male. It did not appear they were molting. These first two scorpions never burrowed. Now I have another two. It turns out the pet store accidently gave me two males so I currently have them seperated. One of my new scorpions had lived with the origional male that died. he was very active at first. Amazing would catch him hanging upside down on the top of the tank. He would run around faster then ive ever seen them run. Without stopping. Now he still defends himself and hes active sometimes. But not as fast and he sleeps alot more now. Is he ok? I think the newest guy is ok so far. Not quite as active as at first but he burrows alot when hes awake. It doesnt look like there are parasites in the tank. I used a light and stared in one spot for a while and didnt see anything. I keep the temp between 70-100 and try and not have the light on too much.theres always water and i feed them every week. Why did my first two die? And how can I prevent these two guys grom getting sick? How can they get there old active lifestyles back?
Sorry this letter is so long.
Thank you so much for your time.
Sincerly, Jessica.
July 23rd, 2009 at 6:56 pm
Hello Jessica, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Unfortunately, we know next to nothing about the diseases that inflict scorpions; your animals may have been ill when purchased. Age is difficult to access as well, so it is possible that they were elderly and died of natural causes. The symptoms you describe could be indicative of either. Providing a proper environment is the closest thing we have to “medicine” for scorpions.
Activity is not always a good sign…in fact, scorpions tend to be relatively inactive if well fed, moving about only to hunt, seek a mate or maintain their burrows. Frantic running about as you describe, and, especially, hanging from the screen top, are likely signs that something is wrong – i.e. aggression from a tank mate or overly warm temperatures.
Emperor scorpions fare best at 78-85 F; much above 90F would be stressful. In the wild, they burrow deeply during hot and dry weather. If you are not currently doing so, you might try providing 6-8 inches of substrate, to allow for deep burrows and also ground cover in the form of cork bark and dead leaves.
A night viewing bulb will assist you in observing your scorpions at night, when they are most active.
I’m sorry I could not be of more help concerning the deaths of your animals.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
July 23rd, 2009 at 7:30 pm
Hi Frank – thanks for the planting suggestions! It looks like the earth star bromeliads are the way to go for me, as the other species you mentioned are too tall for my current shallow terrarium. But I will keep them in mind for a future project! Hoping for some offspring eventually from my two emperors (some years ago I raised baby Asian forest scorpions in a very similar set-up), but for now I just want them to settle in and be comfortable….
July 23rd, 2009 at 7:57 pm
Hello Raksha, Frank Indiviglio here.
You’re quite welcome, thanks for writing back.
Earth stars are a great choice…I first became aware of them through one of the early pioneers in tarantula keeping. He was searching for an interesting-looking plant that thrived in dark terrariums. In low-light conditions, they turn brownish but regain their red coloration as soon as more light is provided. Their structure is actually perfect for scorpions…the leaves are sturdy and raised slightly off the ground, providing a secure network of “underbrush” through which the scorpions can navigate.
I hope the scorpions settle in and breed in time.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
July 24th, 2009 at 11:58 pm
Hi there Frank
I was just reading some of the other posts.. Mainly the one about the plants.. Spike is doing well I believe.. But I was wondering if I need more plants in his cage.. Currently there are 2 hides plus a burrow or 2 along the sides of his cage and 2 fake plants.. Do I have to put live plants in there?? Or is that just for humidity?? At the moment his cage runs 74-77 degrees at night and 80-87 degrees during the day.. There is like a dew on the cage where you see substrate.. Soo anyways do I need live plants or does it sound like his cage is just fine the way it is??
July 25th, 2009 at 12:10 pm
Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.
Nice to see that you are so thorough in seeking to provide an ideal habitat for your animals.
Your temperature and humidity levels seem to be fine. Plants in scorpion tanks can assist in breaking down waste products, but are not necessary. Most people add them simply for their decorative value. Some also enjoy recreating habitat replications, using plants native to the scorpion’s range, as we do in zoos. While this is critical for some animals, as regards emperors it is mainly a matter of personal interest.
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
July 29th, 2009 at 12:49 am
Dear Frank.
Thank you so much for your reply to my last message about my two scorpions that passed away. I found your reply to be extremly helpful and I am much less worried about the health of my scorpions. I can understand why the scorpions would be stressed out when I first got them. New home and being stuck in a container for a week or so with no food probably did a toll on them. Now that they are settled I can see that they are actually very healthy. They burrow alot and have tons of sand to do it in. I do need some bark and plants like you said for moisture though. I had read on many websites that the temp should be between 70-90F and over 100F at times. From experience and your reply I can clearly soo you are right. They don’t seem to like it too hot or bright most of the time. They will only come out of their homes with the light off. Just one last question sorry. Have you ever heard of a scorpion overeating? or eating the sand they live in? The Owner of the store I got them at says he’s never heard of such a thing. I have only seen one website that said otherwise out of the several I’ve vewed. I notice that you also can’t trust what most of the websites say. They are all different. Some very uninformative. I am very gratefull to have found your site. Thank You So Much once again for your quick informative reply. You are awesome.
July 29th, 2009 at 8:31 pm
Hello Jessica, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks so much for the kind words…very glad I could be of some help.
Yes, scorpions are very much aware of their environment, despite being more or less blind. The tiny hairs they possess are incredibly sensitive to changes in air pressure (the most sensitive known, and basically unchanged for millions of years), and chemo-sensing abilities also help them to form a good picture of where they are and what is happening. Glad they have settled in.
Concerning temperatures, people often extrapolate an animal’s needs from the average temperatures of its natural habitat. However, many species, including emperor scorpions, utilize micro-habitats that are vastly different from the general habitat in terms of temperature, humidity, etc. The classic example is the Gila monster lizard, which lives in one of the hottest, driest places on earth. So zoos kept them hot and dry, and the lizards did poorly, spending most of their time lying in water bowls. Turns out they spend 98% of their time deep below-ground, where the temperature is 20-25 F lower than ambient, and humidity levels are as high as 6o-70%. They eat 2-3 big meals each year, and move about only during the breeding season. Emperor scorpions are also very good at avoiding temperature extremes.
Regarding over-eating, many animals do not have a “shut-off”, as meals are un-predictable in the wild, and often become obese in captivity. Scorpions seem rather individualistic in this regard – perhaps it depends upon where within their range they originated. Some will gorge until the body plates are stretched apart, revealing the underlying exoskeleton layer; others take only a cricket or 2 every few days. Gravid females eat a great deal early on, and then slow down. As the young develop the female will appear ready to burst – this usually comes on rather quickly, i.e. one day she looks fine, then huge. Let them eat heavily for now, as they may be making up for lost time while in transit, then please write back and let me know how they are doing.
I have not heard of scorpions consuming sand or earth, but watch them…many animals do so, in order to obtain salts and minerals. Please let me know if you see anything interesting.
Many serious hobbyists are making great strides in invertebrate husbandry, more so than zoos in many cases, but many people also seem to enjoy seeing their ideas or opinions in print, regardless of the validity of what is being written. The inter net is a great research tool, but unfortunately you need to be able to evaluate the writer before accepting any advice as there is no peer review or fact-checking of posted information in most cases. For subjects with which I am unfamiliar, I always turn to books. Books published by reputable publishing houses must pass rigid evaluations by several experts in the field in question, and are therefore far more reliable than most inter net sites.
Please don’t hesitate to write in at any time…animal care and conservation is my lifelong career and passion, and so I am always pleased if I can make some useful contribution.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
July 30th, 2009 at 12:00 am
Hey Frank
I wanted to thank you for you very helpfull information on my emperor scorpion.. I really would like to have a few differant species.. Rather than just the emperor.. I have been looking into the desert hairy scorpion… And I read what substrate of course its gonna be sand.. But my question is would it be safe for the scorpion if I use the play sand that goes into like sand boxes or does it have to be a certain kind of sand… Also any information that you have to offer as far as their habitat and basically anything would be great… Ok another thing how can you tell if a scorpion is gravid or is there no certain way to tell.. Well thanks again…
July 30th, 2009 at 9:30 am
Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the kind words…I’m glad the information was useful to you.
Regular sand is technically okay, however scorpions are quite sensitive to pesticides and other chemicals that may find their way into the sand. Also, since the sand will be dry, burrows do not usually hold up well. I prefer something like Zoo Med Repti-Sand , which has no harmful chemicals or other additives. The sand used also holds up a bit better as regards burrows, and you can mix white and red/tan to create a nice desert-like effect. I find that mixing in some aquarium gravel is also useful when keeping burrowing scorpions, as it helps the burrows retain their structure. Desert hairy scorpions often burrow near or below cover, so add some bark on the surface as well.
They need only be misted lightly every other day or so, and be sure the tank dries out. A small water bowl can be offered once weekly, but most of their water comes via food. Provide as much variety as possible – waxworms, newly molted mealworms, etc., in addition to crickets. They often go off feed, perhaps keyed to an internal cycle, but this is not a concern if they are in good weight.
The type of swelling exhibited by gravid females is slightly different than that of one that is merely heavy, but I think you need to see quite a few up close in order to notice the difference. To be honest, I have often been surprised by babies, even after working with many species long term. Gravid females often feed heavily, then cease and become either shy or aggressive, but again this varies greatly among individual scorpions.
Please write back if you need further information. Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
July 31st, 2009 at 2:24 am
hello… i have a question about my scorpion… it probably is a female seeing how u said females are bigger than males and i got the biggest possible one petco had.. my question is why she isnt settling down in her new cage… its like she keeps tryin to climb out but obviously its not gonna climb a glass cage… its eating regularly but i dunno whats wrong with it please maybe u can help me out the dirt is still a little moist maybe its just trying to escape from that? i dont know i have a heat lamp and everything PLEASE HELP ME
July 31st, 2009 at 2:16 pm
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Newly acquired scorpions are often stressed by shipping and the change in their environments. The behavior you describe usually means the scorpion is seeking a secure hiding place or that the environment is too hot or too dry.
Try providing at least 6 inches of substrate into which the scorpion can burrow, preferably a material that helps to maintain the structure of the burrow (i.e. Coconut Husk and Jungle Earth Reptile bedding). Be sure to provide plenty of cover in the form of cork bark etc., on the ground as well.
Please also let me know the size of your enclosure and the day/night temperatures, as these will also affect your scorpion’s behavior.
If you observe your scorpion at night, do not put the lights on in an otherwise dark room, as this can startle the animal (they are nearly blind, but do sense light and dark). A night viewing bulb is a good option if you wish to watch the animal after dark, when it will be most active.
Gravid females often become very stressed if they can not find a safe retreat, so be sure to make any necessary changes as soon as possible.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
August 1st, 2009 at 11:05 am
Heh, I have somewhat of the opposite “problem” of the last poster: my pair (Voodoo & Vortex) have settled in so completely that I never see them! Guess that means they are content. I keep the terrarium shady and slightly damp, and drop in a few crickets a couple times a week. Once cicada season starts, I will try them on a cicada or two and see if they like those as much as my flat-rock does. Every few days I do lift up the hiding places to make sure they’re still okay; they do move around because they’re not always under the same hide, but always together. So far so good!
August 1st, 2009 at 7:52 pm
Hello Raksha, Frank Indiviglio here.
Nice to hear from you again. Yes…a hidden scorpion is a happy scorpion!
I’m glad to hear they are getting along; this bodes well for future breeding success.
You might try hollowing out a small cave near the glass, and coving the glass side with a piece of black paper or cardboard that can be lifted for a quick daytime look; a modified “ant farm” setup may work as well…please see my article Creating an Ant Farm for Burrowing Pets.
Night viewing bulbs may help you to observe the scorpions after dark.
Good luck and please keep me posted…I look forward to hearing about babies on the female’s back!
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
August 1st, 2009 at 11:48 pm
Hi there again Frank..
I was wondering if I could send you some more pictures.. Maybe get you too positively ID my emperor scorpion… I have seen alot of red claw scorpions and mine has a redish color to it.. And I wanna be sure that it is an emperor and not a red claw… Also MAYBE see if you can determine the sex… I have been told its a male… BUT… Im not totally positive.. And I understand that you can be 100% by lookin at the Photos I have but with your exp. you might be able to.. Again im not for sure… Thanks again for all your help and information…
August 2nd, 2009 at 4:59 pm
Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.
Nice to hear from you again.
You can send the photos to findiviglio@thatpetplace.com.
But, as you mention, I will not likely be able to add to what you already know. Emperors vary greatly in appearance throughout their range, with some looking, at least externally, very much like red claws.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
August 3rd, 2009 at 2:59 pm
Ok those photos were sent to you.. Just let me know what your opinion is.. Thank ya
August 3rd, 2009 at 8:12 pm
Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.
The photos are very clear, thanks.
As you know, the comb-like pectines located on the underside of the scorpion, and pictured in your photos, are mainly used to sense the substrate and potential mates. Those of the male are a bit longer than the female’s, but age is a factor. The pectines in your first photo appear slightly longer than those in the second, so I would agree that the first animal may be a male.
Another somewhat useful point of reference is the tail…those of males are slightly thinner, and the segments are proportionally longer, than those of females. Males are, in general, smaller and of a lighter build than females. Some suggest that the males’ claws are longer, thinner and slightly “hairier” than those of females, but I have never been able to discern this…perhaps it only holds true for certain species, the person who passed that along to me was unclear on that.
I would say that both are emperor scorpions, but as you know there is a great deal of variety among various populations of both emperors and red claws.
I hope this has been of some use, sorry for the uncertainty.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
August 3rd, 2009 at 8:35 pm
Thank you for you answer.. I understand you cant be 100% certain.. But the information that you have given me was enough to put me at ease.. now knowing that i might not have 2 males in my tank together.. they seem to be doing great together.. the female moved the male out of his hide and made him go to another spot in the tank and burrow.. I think that it is really cool watching them… i try not to handle them too often.. but at time i catch myself wanting to and i doo.. also just an off the wall question.. is over feeding them an issue.. i just bought my female.. and she has been eating like crazy.. i have done feed her 5 crickets and a super mealworm.. i only feed her when she gets active.. like she is hungry.. and after i feed her.. she goes back to the hide.. and she also drinks from the water bowl ALOT more… IDK if her being at the pet store and not feed and water often might play a role in this or not… just curious.. ill try not to bug you with to many more questions reguarding the emperors.. seeing that you have informed me alot.. i should know most already.. but my mind seems to forget if i have asked a question from time to time.. thanks again for all of you help and information.. it all has been very helpful on keeping my scorpion alive and health and happy… spike is hardly never agressive.. thanks again…
August 3rd, 2009 at 11:03 pm
Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.
I have had many reports of scorpions feeding and drinking ravenously once they settle into new homes. I believe it is as you suggest, they may not have fed well while in transit or at the place of purchase. Gravid females sometimes, but not always, also go through a period of heavy feeding, followed by a fast.
Please don’t hesitate to write in. I enjoy the exchange; also, this field is my passion, and am glad for the opportunity to do some good if possible.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
August 9th, 2009 at 12:29 am
Hey Frank
Just wanted to inform you. When I asked how to tell if a scorpion was gravid…. WELL.. She was gravid… From what I could count in the short time I took from looking at her.. Maybe about 16-20 scorplings.. Very nice looking little critter… Any advice on how to keep them alive.. She had them on the 8th.. Anykind of advice would do great… Thanks..
August 9th, 2009 at 11:39 am
Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.
Great news, thanks!…it’s nice when they cooperative with our “predictions”, isn’t it? (don’t get used to that, however!!).
Disturb her as little as possible, but of course try to watch what’s going on as well. Some females are quite bold, and will carry on as usual…others may become high strung, in which case you may want to cover the terrarium with a black cloth, leaving just some space for observation (usually this is not necessary).
Keep an eye on humidity, as the young will be more sensitive than the adult. Hopefully you will be able to see her feed the young, it is really something. Some females eat an occasional youngster, often when they are in the process of catching crickets…hard to explain, but it’s not a cause for concern unless it becomes regular. Once the young molt and darken in color, they will begin to hunt on their own….please keep me posted as time goes on, as there are a few methods of raising the young once they are independent.
Enjoy and congrats,
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
August 9th, 2009 at 6:05 pm
Hey Frank 2 of them babies left their mommas back they havent moulted yet and I think they might be lost.. Should I try and help them back to her?? And also babies can climb plastic… Should I attempt to move her in something they cant climb out?? Thanks Again…
August 9th, 2009 at 9:58 pm
Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.
It would be best to leave those which have left her back as they are. Trying to direct them to her will not likely be successful, and you’ll definitely stress the mother, causing more to fall off or even cannibalism. I’ve had the same happen – it is sometimes a case of certain youngsters being weak or in poor health; unfortunately, there is not much to be done. They may, however, wind up back where they belong, but let them do so on their own.
I’d strongly advise against moving the female, as this will almost certainly lead to a loss of all or most of the young. Better to fashion a cover for their current enclosure. If all else fails, you can secure a towel over the top via rubber band or duct tape. Just be sure to check in the folds of the cloth for clinging youngsters when removing the cover.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
August 9th, 2009 at 11:47 pm
Hey Frank its me again lol… Thanks for all the advice im glad that I found this here blog… I’m pretty sure if I didnt some if not all of my scorpions would have died… But I just wanna say thanks for all your help and I will try getting as many photos as I can and I will send them to your email.. So you can seem them… The scorpion that just had her babies is one of the C. Vittatus.. I dont handle any of the ones that I have cought.. I desided that they were best off with me rather than letting my sister kill them.. I really didnt like that idea at all.. I know I prolly should have let them go.. BUT they are soo much more active than the Emperor… Like I said I *DONT* handle them they are more just for observation…. And its kinda a good thing cause I can learn from these.. And when my Emperor gets gravid I will know how to take care of them a little better… My Emperor are also getting along very well… They tend to stick together under the same hide… Hopefully soon I will be able to catch them mating and have some babie from Snuggles in the near future… Well im sure it will be awhile unless one of the males that she was with already got to her… She has gotten bigger.. ALOT bigger… Anyways… Thanks Again….
August 10th, 2009 at 12:09 am
Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your kind words, much appreciated.
That makes more sense…bark scorpions being able to climb plastic – thanks for explaining. The y0oung coming off the females back are not much of a concern. Usually they stay on for a few days, but it’s mainly for protection from predators, not to be fed.
Please keep in mind that babies can slip through unbelievably tiny cracks. Watching them mature is interesting, but please put your safety first.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
August 12th, 2009 at 4:59 am
Hi Frank
Hope everything is well with you..
I just got done seperating the momma and babies.. They have left her back and their in their 2nd instar well some are… But all of them were off her back @ the same time.. Well all but 3 or 4.. soo I desided to seperate them.. Is it normal for them to be off her back that soon being that its only been like 4 days now… Also The ones that look like they are in the 2nd instar are seperated from the ones that dont look like they are.. Oh yea before I forget she had 23 babies.. And one of them has lost one of its claws.. Is that going to affect it any??
Well I have some pictures of them on her back.. Ill send them to your email.. Take care and thanks..
August 13th, 2009 at 3:42 pm
Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.
That’s quite a large clutch. I believe they are behaving normally, as there is not an extended period of parental care as in emperor scorpions. The claw will likely regenerate with the next molt.
I look forward to seeing your photos.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
August 13th, 2009 at 4:33 pm
Well All have survived the 1st moult.. except the one that had one claw..
August 13th, 2009 at 5:52 pm
Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.
That’s a very good success rate…far more than in the wild, I’ll bet. They will need a good deal of food if you plan to keep them; cannibalism more likely than with emperors and related species.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
August 15th, 2009 at 5:52 pm
Hi Frank
I was wondering something about emperors.. Say the female has already mated with another male.. And she picked his sperm up right.. what happens if another male trys to mate with her when she may already be pregnant or gravid.. cause IDK if maybe my female already mated with another male.. My male has been trying to mate with her and she is getting violent with him.. what do you think i should do..
August 15th, 2009 at 8:33 pm
Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.
That’s a very good question; it seems like you are spending a good deal of time with your scorpions, and getting to see some very interesting behavior. Keep it up, there’s so much that we need to learn.
Biologists are uncovering more and more animal species, ranging from invertebrates to fishes to marsupials and other mammals, in which the females utilize a form of “sperm competition”. They mate with several males and then somehow “choose” the fittest sperm to fertilize their eggs…or, in some cases, the clutch or litter will be fathered by multiple males.
However, to my knowledge no studies have been carried out on scorpions (perhaps something for you to tackle in time?). Multiple male mating would not be out of the question, but considering their rather structured group dynamics, if I had to guess I would lean towards a single mating. However, many invertebrates switch mating strategies to fit different situations. If she is aggressive when he advances, your safest option would be to spit them for a month or so, watch her for weight gain, and then try again if she appears not to be gravid.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
August 17th, 2009 at 5:15 am
Well I wont be able to do no studies on multiple mating with the Emperors.. After I seperated the Male from the Female.. She start acting real funny.. Like She went crazy or something.. I thought it was just because I put her in a new habitat.. So I turned off all the lights and left her alone.. I just went in to check on her mayb 8 hours later.. And she died.. Unfortunate.. But I guess it will be ok.. I dont think it was anything I did wrong.. I had the same substrate same amout or hides water and the temp. and humidity were all the same.. Maybe it might have stressed her out to much.. I prolly should have moved him and not her… But it is a lesson learned.. Im also thinking it might have been her age she looked old.. She moved really really REALLY slow.. I know you cant judge their age by looking at them.. But she just seem that way to me compaired to my Male.. He is alot quicker than she was.. I guess I am going to have to try this again with another female when I can get another one.. Might try to order one off the internet froma breeder.. See if I can get one around my age or size.. Anyways thats the update for now on the Emperor Scorpions..
Now as far as my Striped Bark Scorpions.. I have found out that they cant sence who is male and female… I keep all or my scorpions seperated.. I introduced the males and one female that just had her babies together.. Trying to breed.. And the males tried to advance her and she would not have it soo they tried for each other.. I let them sit together for a few hours and they finally calmed down. So I put them back in they own tanks.. Im guessing that the female only wants to mate a certain time I dont know for sure.. But I see if she dont want to mate she wont mate..
And for my Striped Bark Scorplings.. I have them all seperated as well.. I found with their tiny little size they can fit in really small containers.. So I went to walmart looking aound for small deli cups.. With no luck My sister suggested that i try looking in the arts and craft sections.. I did and found a box with multiple sections in it. just big enough for them. It seems to be working ggreat they cant get out and they are seperated.. I cant seem to find food small enough for them around here.. Soo I figured to kill the smaller crickets that I have or can get from the pet store.. They eat that up.. Anyways thats all I have for now..
Thanks again for you help..
August 17th, 2009 at 10:48 am
Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.
You’re paying attention to the right things, racking up some good observations; I hope you keep notes…I’ve used notes from childhood in books and papers I write today (in fact, I was a more skilled observer as a child!)…you never know what will turn out to be new or useful.
Stress could have been involved…as you’ve gathered always best to move the more vigorous animal if possible; but I’d say your thoughts about age are more likely to be behind the death; observing how she moves and all is really the only way to make an educated guess. Small dealers are more likely to talk with you and pay attention to your specific needs…Hatari Invertebrates in Arizona is one of the oldest and best, doesn’t advertise on Kingsnake but is on net. Specialty is native inverts but may stock emperors as well.
The female bark probably needs to build up her reserves before mating again…a few dozen little ones are probably quite a drain! Amazing how responsive they are, despite being 1 of the most ancient, unchanged creatures still around. Some male frogs (and mammals, but I’ll leave that alone) act as do the male scorps you describe, trying to mate with almost anything once they are stimulated. Male American toads have been seen in amplexus with fish, each other and tennis balls during the short breeding season.
Interesting that they are taking dead crickets right away; good to know for future reference, thanks. Aphids, if available (need to collect), are also convenient to use and just the right size.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
August 17th, 2009 at 1:25 pm
well i just looked up about them aphids i might be able to find them being that we have 2 pecan trees in our yard.. i might have to go and look around and see if i can find some and try feeding them to the scorplings also i looked at that site that you suggested.. for the moment im going to try this other guy out called ken the bug guy he is located in california.. i have heard alot of good stuff about him.. soo if it dont work out with him i might have to give this other guy that you mentioned a try and hope for the best.. i have never bought anything offline before soo kinda iffy about it but again we will see what happens…
August 17th, 2009 at 1:38 pm
wow what luck i found a large group of them thanks i would have never knew about them..
August 17th, 2009 at 2:11 pm
soo should i just drop a bunch in with each scorpling
August 17th, 2009 at 2:21 pm
Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.
Glad you found them…yes, easiest way, if space permits, is to just put a piece of the plant stem in with the scorpions, leaving the aphids attached; otherwise, tap the stem over each container. Be careful, the aphids crush with the slightest touch,
Good luck; please let me know how they fare,
Best regards, Frank Indivi
August 17th, 2009 at 3:19 pm
Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.
Good luck, let me know if you need further info on either,
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
August 17th, 2009 at 3:30 pm
Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.
That is good luck, glad to hear it…aphids are great for tiny inverts, newly transformed frogs and salamanders, baby mantids, etc. They were a real mainstay before pinhead crickets were available; here in the east they are getting hard to find, but when you do find them there are usually thousands.
They helped me to raise 2 species of tiny frogs for release in Kenya…metamorphs could barely choke down pinheads, and springtails seemed not to provide enough nutrients. Try garden plants and native thistle and other meadow plants also.
Interesting in their own right…they regularly change sexes/breeding strategies throughout the summer, have winged and flightless forms…would be great to figure out how to breed them on a large scale – might be the “next supermealworm”!!
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
August 17th, 2009 at 7:01 pm
Well I think I am going to ship most of the Striped Bark Scorpions to a breeder.. Im going to keep a couple of them for observation.. From your experiance.. how long does it normally take to moult into the 3rd instar.. or is that something based on food intake..
August 27th, 2009 at 8:36 pm
hi i have had my scorpion for a while maybe 3 months…i had one before but for some odd reason he/she died… so i am very interested in breeding my scorpion… but i have a couple of questons… how can you tell when they are ready to breed… and when do i remove the male…
August 27th, 2009 at 9:43 pm
Hello Carmen, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Emperor scorpions vary in their sociability and acceptance of mates. You need to introduce the pair slowly, and gauge their reactions. Putting a screen divider between them at first, and watching them at night with the assistance of a night viewing bulb, is the safest way.
Provide as large a tank as is possible, with a deep (5-6 inches) substrate and artificial caves, so that they can dig burrows and avoid one another if need be. Once they are getting along, you can leave them together until the female gives birth. In many cases, the male can stay even after that, but it is safest to remove him.
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
September 3rd, 2009 at 12:28 am
Hi-
I have two emperor scorpions, one of which i think is female. She’s very aggressive, and is also a lot bigger than the other. Lately (the past three days), the other scorpion has been laying on top of the substrate in the middle of the terrarium, directly under the heat lamp. It barely looks alive until I touch it, then it moves a little. It’s starting to concern me a little bit. Humidity is kept at 70-85% and heat is in the 80-90 range. Is it normal for a scorpion to be acting like this?
Also, is there any way to tell if my other scorpion is preparing to give birth, or if it’s just obese? It has definitely outgrown the other scorpion, almost doubling in size. You can see the white under its exoskeleton, so that has led me to believe it’s either pregnant or overweight. I don’t feel like i overfeed them, but maybe i do? I usually add 4 crickets to the cage every week or so…
September 3rd, 2009 at 12:39 am
One more thing:
The bigger scorpion has excreted a white, creamy substance…It doesn’t look like the normal feces. Any thoughts on what it could be?
Thanks so much! Your blog has already been a lot of help.
September 3rd, 2009 at 12:46 am
Hello Josh, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Unfortunately, the animal that is staying under the light is likely ill, and we know net to noting about scorpion disease and treatment. Pregnant scorpions may seek out heat at times, but this does not seem to be the case with your smaller animal. Sick invertebrates may instinctively seek higher temperatures also. Another possibility would be a difficult molt, but in that case the animal usually seeks a moist shelter. You might try adding a shelter over the animal, and misting it each day, just in case.
Could the aggressive animal be driving the smaller scorpion from a favored shelter? This is often the case when an animal that normally hides begins to stay out in the open. Observing them at night with a night viewing bulb might provide some insight. Other than this, however, there is unfortunately not much that can be done for the ailing scorpion.
It’s virtually impossible to distinguish an overweight from a pregnant scorpion. However, the amount of food you are offering is sound, and the fact that the scorpion is aggressive might indicate that it will give birth soon. Some cease feeding shortly before delivery as well. Be sure to provide ample shelters and give the female plenty of privacy.
Good luck and please keep me posted… I hope to hear about your new baby scorpions soon!
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
September 3rd, 2009 at 12:55 am
Hello Josh, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the kind words, much appreciated.
I’ve never run across any sort of secretion other than the uric acid that scorpions normally produce as a waste product. However, the consistency and appearance of this can vary greatly with diet and moisture levels, and perhaps with hormonal and other internal factors of which we are still unaware at this point.;
It sounds as though you are a careful observer. Please keep notes and pass along your thoughts – we have a great deal to learn about scorpions of all kinds, even those commonly kept in captivity.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
September 3rd, 2009 at 1:19 am
I added half of a coconut husk as a shelter for the ill scorp, and also misted the tank. Hopefully that helps. The two scorpions have always gotten along well…They normally hide in the same burrow together, that’s why the smaller one has concerned me lately by laying outside under the lamp. I’ve only had these scorpions for 6 months or so, and the one that is bigger now has definitely been dominant over the other the whole time.
As for the bigger scorpion, the white secretion is really odd, and i’ve never seen anything like it with the scorpions! Weird, I’ll keep an eye out and come back to you for advice! Thanks again for your helpful advice.
September 3rd, 2009 at 2:13 am
Hello Josh, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the feedback. Please let me know what happens. I’ll get back to you if I find any further information on the secretion.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
September 3rd, 2009 at 9:49 pm
hi thanks so much …
i have to try this .. everywere i have been only have female … so im looking for a male..ill keep you posted
September 3rd, 2009 at 10:59 pm
Hello Carmen, Frank Indiviglio here.
My pleasure…please let me know when you have a male and are ready to give it a try.
Good luck and enjoy!
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
September 4th, 2009 at 12:30 am
Just updating you–
I got home from work today and found the sick scorpion had died
At least he’s out of his misery. I kind of looked over its body and found no sores or any signs of mites. Old age or illness must have been the clincher.
September 8th, 2009 at 8:15 am
Hello Josh, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the update.
Unfortunately we can do little more than guess at this point; even in professional collections/zoos, there is not much known. But watch your animals closely, every little clue helps; I believe small husbandry details will give us some clues. This has held true for other inverts – you notice that some small change improves vigor or breeding, and build on that. Eventually the reason for the benefit may reveal itself. Invert keeping is an area where anyone with an interest has a real chance to contribute to our knowledge base, so keep your eyes open.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
October 7th, 2009 at 12:57 am
Frank,
Have you seen a scorp lay eggs or deposit small round yellow objects? I have 8 Arizona Bark scorpions and have had them for a little over a year. I isolated the one doing this (largest one which is just over 3 inches!) just to prove this is the one. I have seen it twice do something I’ve never seen a scorp do…I’ve seen it “scratching it’s belly”. I’ve seen this one rub its belly from side to side on sand and stones…any ideas?
October 7th, 2009 at 1:09 pm
Hello John, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
That’s a very interesting observation, and one not many get to see. Most likely the animal is a male, and is depositing a spermatophore. Despite being among the oldest surviving creatures (as in unchanged for 200 million years), scorpions utilize internal fertilization. Usually a pair will lock claws and move about on a cleared patch of ground for a bit; the male deposits the sperm-filled capsule known as the spermatophore on the ground. Guided (pushed!) by the male, the female takes this into her vent, and the eggs are fertilized internally. She retains the eggs and gives birth to live young.
Occasionally all does not go as nature planned, which may be why yours has deposited the spermatophore as described. If you have not done so, you might try providing day/night length and temperature changes that coincide with those in their habitat (bark scorpions have a wide range, so knowing where they originated would be useful). Please be aware that the young can escape through tiny spaces, and that the sting of this species can be dangerous to sensitive individuals.
The rubbing might be associated with releasing the spermatophore, or perhaps in depositing pheromones designed to lure females. Also, scorpions are usually parasitized by tiny mites that move about the exoskeleton…these are harmless under normal circumstances, but perhaps he is trying to dislodge them.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
October 7th, 2009 at 9:55 pm
Frank,
Thanks for the response. I’m pretty sure the scorp in question is female (looking at the tail). I would like to sex them a little better with tooth counts, but have found none published for mine (Centruroides exilicauda). What I’m finding doesn’t look like a spermatophore, though I admit I’ve never seen one from this species. They are yellow(as in Crayola holy crap thats yellow)and almost perfectly round. They are 3 to 4 times the size of the grains of sand I keep them in. I can send photos if needed.
I cycle their light with a timer based off sunrise and sunset times from the city where I got them from (SE Arizona). I look up sunrise and sunset times on the internet twice a month and adjust their timer.
I do understand the responsibility of owning these beauties. I do accountability counts every time I look in on them. They are very communal, and I have had them long enough to be fairly socialized, though I NEVER handle any of them.
Being as they do not burrow, I feel these are some of the coolest, and easiest to keep scorps out there…as long as you are responsible for them.
Dangerous scorps are like owning guns, don’t mishandle them, and don’t allow anyone else to either. When not in use, keep them secured!
Thanks again,
John
November 2nd, 2009 at 8:51 pm
hi Frank
everything you have written i experienced on the fly years ago in ‘98 when i bought my first from an exotic shop in nc. i acquired three, two females and a male i found out later. i didn’t see the dance, but both females got pregnant & then killed the male. sometime later one gave birth on Easter sunday the other just a few days later. i came home one day to find some had been cannibalized, i contacted the shop and they took on the rest of the kids to give them all a chance. to shorten this long story… i had to go out of the country for longer than a year so i surrendered my little family back to the shop, we had been together for almost three years. i now own my own home, don’t have any overseas plans and would once again like to give shelter to my beloved arachnid but went searching for that shop and found it is no longer. so i went online searching for a dealer when, by curiosity, i came here & was thrilled to read about the obvious care you give your brood. i contact you to see if you would be interested in putting up any, adult or juvenile, for adoption? the idea of this is much more pleasing than buying from someone who has more likely gotten them from a roundup then by domestic breeding. i have a 55gallon tank, the one i originally had, so i could accommodate three adults easily. the tank has an under tank heater, heated rocks, timed lamp and air-plants. i am also able to divide the tank with panels if they need to be separated for any reason. please contact me if this interests you
thank you,
roya
November 2nd, 2009 at 9:24 pm
p.s.
do you what kind of scorpion was used as a model for the original Clash of the Titans movie?
just curious
roya
November 2nd, 2009 at 11:11 pm
Hello Roya, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog and the kind words.
It sounds like you’ve done quite well with them, glad you have the chance to start again. Unfortunately, I was writing based on experiences with scorpions years back, in both my own and the Bronx Zoo’s collection. I’m not keeping any at the moment.
Hatari Invertebrates is a good source; they take great care and, if you inquire, may let you know the source of their animals. I sometimes get calls from folks looking to place youngsters – I’ll be sure to let you know should that occur.
Good luck and welcome back to scorpion keeping; please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
November 2nd, 2009 at 11:16 pm
Hello Roya, Frank Indiviglio here.
Sorry to say I didn’t see the movie…I’ll keep it in mind and will get back to you if I can make an ID.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
November 18th, 2009 at 3:44 am
hi frank..i have two asian forest scorpion..a male and a female..although the female is much bigger that the male..will they still mate or do i need to get a male wid the samn size..i have no idea on how to breed them..tips would help me..does my terrarium need to be filled with peat moss..because i have about a 2-3 inces..i also have a piece of cork bark..in the terrarim..i have not seen them mating..im plannig to get another asian forest scorpion..should i get a male or female??how long do they usualy take to have scorplings..
November 18th, 2009 at 4:07 am
hi frank..i have two asian forest scorpion..a male and a female..i have had them for bout 4 months..i was juz wonderring if u could give me a little tips on how to breed them the proper way..how is my terrarium suppose to be..the female is a little bigger than the male..and im planning to get another sholuld i get a male or a female…and i have no education of asian forest scorpion hope u understand and hope u will reply soon..im frm asia..malaysia
November 18th, 2009 at 12:02 pm
Hello Kavin, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Females are usually a bit heavier and larger than males, so their sizes will not be a problem. Its preferable to give them 6 inches or more of substrate in which to burrow – keep it semi-moist; you can mix in some soil if need be, so that the burrows will keep their shape. Also provide several cork bark hiding spots – always good to give them opportunities to avoid each other, should one become aggressive.
Males sometimes fight, so add another female, but watch them carefully as the 2 already there may be territorial – groups sometimes get along, but they need to be monitored. They usually do a circular “dance”, locking claws, before mating, but this most often occurs at night; a night viewing bulb may help in observing them after dark.
Gestation varies, so it is hard to predict births – stress, temperature and other factors affect the timing of the birth. Best to remove the others if a female does have young, to avoid predation.
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
November 18th, 2009 at 12:10 pm
Hello Kavin, Frank Indiviglio here.
Please see my earlier post. As for how to breed them – often they will reproduce without an external stimulus once they settle in. You can encourage them by providing extra food and, especially, variety. Wild caught insects are especially useful. Some folks have experimented with drying them out a bit for 2-3 weeks, and then spraying heavily
every day, in imitation of a rainy period. It’s not clear if this is effective, but it may be worth a try. If you can find out where they came from, research weather patterns there and try to imitate these (on a scaled down version!) in the terrarium.
I hope you are soon caring for some scorplings….
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
November 18th, 2009 at 12:27 pm
Hi Frank – just an update on my pair of black emperors, Voodoo and Vortex. They are doing well and seem happy. Voodoo, the female, is noticably larger in girth, so she may be in the early stages of pregnancy (she’s by no means huge yet), or maybe she just eats better than Vortex.
In any case, both are content….
November 18th, 2009 at 6:46 pm
Hello Raksha, Frank Indiviglio here.
Glad to hear you have a pair that is getting along; females are generally heavier than males. Its often hard to tell when they are carrying young, although large clutches will make the female swell much more than might be expected from eating. I hope it works out and you wake to find youngsters soon,
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
November 19th, 2009 at 1:56 am
hello my femail scorpion apears to have loss the movment in her tail at the base it seams limp but the rest of her tail up to the stinger appears to be locked it is very strait and stiff what dose this mean should i be consernd and should i do anything about it the other question im thinking of breading should i only use one male and one female or should i use multiple females with one male or vise versa???
November 19th, 2009 at 2:26 pm
Hello Richard, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
I have seen limpness in the tail and limbs in a number of emperor scorpions, even had vets try to work on such at the Bronx Zoo. Unfortunately, we know very little about the illnesses that affect invertebrates, and I have never been able to come up with any explanations. Age seems often to be involved – they likely survive longer under ideal captive conditions…as many in the trade are wild caught, you may have an elderly animal on your hands.
As for breeding, you can use 1 male and multiple females as long as they have plenty of room and a deep substrate; while they usually get along, there is always the chance of aggression; best to buy a group that has been living together. Also, if a female gives birth, it would be best to remove the non-breeding animals and leave her in the tank, so another large enclosure may be needed. Multiple males sometimes work out, but I wouldn’t recommend it – fighting can break out even after a time of peaceful co-existence.
Sorry I could not be of more help with your ailing animal.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.