Breeding Emperor Scorpions

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.

Courtship does look a lot like fighting, with the pair locking claws and spinning about. However, if it appears to be true aggression, than it would be best to separate them for the time being…the larger animal could very well kill the smaller ones when they molt and are in a soft, vulnerable condition.

Perhaps the females are not yet sexually mature…usually, but not always, adult females are longer and more heavily-built than males. Allow the females to establish burrows in a new tank and wait until they put on some size. When trying again, introduce the male to their terrarium.

Please keep me posted on your progress.

Enjoy your scorpions, Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.

Emperor scorpions have, for invertebrates, very long gestation periods…8 to 12 months on average, and so give birth only once each year.

Diet, terrarium and burrow design, temperature and humidity levels all likely play a role in determining the actual interval between births, but I’m not aware of any examples of gestation periods shorter than 7 months in length.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.

Thanks for the most interesting comment.

We have a great deal to learn about scorpion reproduction…based on what we do know, there are a few possible explanations for what you have observed.

Gestation in emperor scorpions is very long…while it typically lasts from 7-10 months, birth may occur over a year (exactly how long is not known) from the time of mating. Stress is a primary factor – females of certain fishes (i.e. guppies) and invertebrates are able to somehow suspend birth for a time if they perceive a threat. In the case of the scorpion, collection, shipment and adjustment to a new environment and diet could all be involved. Temperature, humidity, nutrition and other factors can also play a role.

Many invertebrates, fishes, herps and even mammals can store sperm…in the most extreme case known, a single mating allows queens of certain termite species to produce young for up to 20 years! Sperm storage is a very real possibility as regards emperor scorpions, but has not been definitively proven as far as I know.

Finally, we have true asexual reproduction. This is known to occur even in a few vertebrates (Brahminy blind snakes, many fishes, whip-tailed lizards) and is very intriguing. Please keep me posted as to future births… your observations might prove very helpful in learning more about emperor scorpion reproduction. I’ll be sure to pass along your notes to others working on this species, and will report back on this blog.

Enjoy and good luck,

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Ric, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.

Some females just seem to do that no matter what, although stress is often a factor. If she is set up in a good environment – a tank with a deep substrate into which she can burrow and plenty of room, and is not disturbed by lights or people, then your best option would be to remove all the young.

If her tank is not ideal, you might try giving her more room and cover, and then leaving her with a few young and removing the others, but it would be risky (the change to a better environment is still a stress).

You can set the young up as you do adults, but keep them damper as they will be shedding more frequently and also may have less control over moisture loss. Be sure to provide a deep substrate and lots of ground covering…driftwood, cork bark, caves – to break up the area and prevent cannibalism (not common, but they molt often and are defenseless at that time).

Start them off on ¼ inch crickets. You’ll need to overload the tank with crickets, as the young are not good at catching them at first (try tong feeding if necessary). 1/4 inch crickets should not be a problem re attacking newly-molted scorpions. It might be a good idea to provide the crickets with some food and water, or a slice of orange, when many are at large in the tank.

The scorpions will not likely feed until after their first molt.

Good luck and please keep me posted on your progress. This is a common problem but we still do not have a good handle on perfect solutions…your observations will be most useful to myself and others, so please write back when time permits.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Ric, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for the feedback.

Actually, that’s a very interesting observation you have there. Emperor scorpion gestation periods vary quite a bit, and it hasn’t really been quantified whether long gestations or sperm storage (or, possibly, parthenogenesis) are at work. I suspect sperm storage, based upon your and my own experiences. Most resources put an outside limit of 12 months for emperor scorpion gestation.

I’ll file the information and let you know what else turns up.

The insects you note in the cricket boxes are the larvae of beetles in the Genus Dermestes. Commonly known as museum beetles, colonies are still maintained by most major museums for the final stages of skeleton/bone cleaning…to date, nothing we can come up with surpasses them! No harm in trying, but most species are covered with tiny irritating hairs that repel predators. Please let me know how it works out.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your kind words and interest in our blog.

Unfortunately, there isn’t any reliable way of estimating an emperor scorpion’s age. Size and age at sexual maturity are greatly affected by diet, both in the wild and captivity. Also, scorpions living in different parts of the natural range vary as to size, so the origin of your specimen’s ancestors will have an effect as well.

Please let me know if you need any further information.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here. You’re quite welcome, I’m glad the information was of use to you.

Actually, emperor scorpions do not need to eat pink mice or any other vertebrates. Field research has shown that there diet is composed entirely of invertebrates, and this is what their digestive systems have evolved to deal with most effectively. Certainly I scorpion might on occasion stumble across a rodent nest in the wild, but this would be an extremely rare event. In no case should a live mouse ever be given to a scorpion – their venom is not designed to subdue such creatures and hence the mouse would suffer unnecessarily if the scorpion did attack it. I understand that this is common practice in some circles, but such is for the benefit (?) of those doing the feeding, not the scorpion…vertebrates are never used in zoos or professional collections.

Dietary variety is, however important…this is easily accomplished by tong-feeding canned invertebrates (snails, grasshoppers, silkworms) to the scorpion, or by collecting native insects. The June bugs you mention are fine, as long as they are collected from a pesticide free area.

Mealworms are not a concern and may be fed to scorpions. The “head crushing” idea might be useful for animals which swallow their prey whole and alive, i.e. frogs, and then only in certain situations. Scorpions masticate prey beforehand, killing the animal before or as it is consumed. Super mealworms, or newly molted “regular mealworms” (white in color, are your best choice as their chitin content is fairly low.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio

Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here. Nice to hear from you again.

We know very little about the actual nutritional requirements of scorpions, and so must rely on what has been shown to work over the years. It’s always a good idea to feed and gut load crickets. There are a number of ways to do this – cricket gut-loading products are very convenient, or you can use tropical fish flakes along with a variety of fruits and vegetables.

I powder crickets once weekly for adult scorpions, 2-3x for youngsters, most often using Reptivite. Variety is very important…include the insects you mentioned last time, and offer canned invertebrates as well.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your feedback…glad to see that you are so concerned about your scorpion’s welfare, and are covering all the most important points.

A 40 wt. incandescent bulb is fine as a daytime heat source, as long as you check that it does not dry out the substrate. For nighttime heating, a reptile night-viewing bulb is preferable. Scorpions do not sense the light emitted from these, and so will not be disturbed during their normal activity period. These bulbs will also allow you to observe your scorpions when they are most active.

Male-female relations are (as with us!) complicated and variable. You’ll need to watch them closely for awhile. Having numerous hides and a deep substrate for burrowing, as well as lots of driftwood etc. to break up the habitat, is important when keeping multiple scorpions in the same terrarium.

Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.

Nice to hear from you again and glad that you wrote in, as you raise an important point.

It’s very difficult even for experts to identify some of the smaller scorpions native to the American Southwest…colors vary within a species and by age, etc. Also, especially in Texas, there is always the possibility of a non-native species turning up from Mexico or via the pet trade. Some are quite toxic, and we know little about the actual functioning of their venom, which complicates treatment. There is also always the very real possibility of a serious and/or fatal sensitivity to the venom on the part of the person who is stung.

I strongly urge you to release the animal or turn it over to a local zoo or museum, and commend you for talking the trouble to ask.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.

Thanks for getting back to me…sometimes people write in after having collected scorpions and venomous snakes and then fail to follow-up (which I assume means they kept the creature, or had a mishap).

You made the right decision…that’s not a species you want to have around if possible, especially as they are such adept escape artists. I’ve had small Middle Eastern species escape even from zoo exhibits…and with the common name of “death stalker”, believe me they caused a stressful situation!

Unfortunately, other than sealing cracks and all there’s not much that can be done to dissuade scorpions from entering a home…they can squeeze through very tight places. Most don’t care to cross wide, open areas, so clearing brush and plants, lawn furniture etc. from between the nearest cover and the house may help somewhat. It’s very important that adults stress to children that they must bang their shoes hard on the floor before putting them on… scorpions hidden in shoes account for the majority of stings recorded. I have found 2 that way, as well as a huge centipede, while on field research (so I still bang my shoes, even when in NYC!) Clothes, even those taken from closets or drawers, should be shaken well before wearing.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.

Unfortunately we know very little about what sort of medical problems afflict scorpions, or how to treat them. However, gravid females have the ability to delay giving birth if environmental conditions are not ideal, or if other sources of stress are present. If this goes on for to look, it could possibly lead to physical problems, perhaps including that which you have described (I have seen something similar, once, in another species).

If you have not already done so, I suggest providing her with a deep substrate and ample hiding spots and ground cover. Be sure that temperature and humidity levels are optimal, and disturb her as little as possible. Keep the terrarium in a secluded location if possible, and avoid turning on room or terrarium lights at night. If you wish to check on her after dark, I suggest using a night-viewing bulb, as such will not be perceived by the scorpion.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.

I have observed that, but always while dealing with large numbers of scorpions at the zoo…I assumed that a gravid female might become aggressive and cease feeding…made sense but unfortunately I was never able to keep close watch and follow up.

Another possibility could be some sort of disturbance – they are very sensitive to air vibrations and react strongly to vibrations from certain machinery, even, some say, to barometric pressure changes i.e. before a storm (this is common in many herps as well…alligators will bellow a day or 2 before a storm front).

Sorry I cannot offer anything more useful…please let me know if you learn anything new, or have any ideas.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.

Good question…scorpions seem not to notice black light, even though they fluoresce under it and it would seem logical that this has some survival adaptation. I kept emperor scorpions in an exhibit at the Bronx Zoo that allowed visitors to hit a switch and turn on a black light (or old style Vita-light). I did not observe the scorpions to change their behavior at all, despite the fact that the light was going on and off incessantly all day long (many visitors, for reasons I could never understand, seemed more interested in the “bells and whistles” than the animals themselves). At night, when the zoo closed, the exhibit was brightly lit so as to give the scorpions a somewhat natural day/night cycle.

Reptile night viewing lights similarly seem not to register on scorpions or affect their behavior.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.

You can leave the black light on at night if it helps you to see the scorpion, but I don’t believe it provides any benefit to the scorpion itself…they have not been shown to need any sort of light in order to remain healthy, other than a normal day/night cycle.

As you noticed with the native species, scorpions do indeed follow a great many different lifestyles, depending on their habitats, sizes, food preferences etc. Some never leave the rainforest canopy, others dwell miles below ground and never emerge from caves, etc. and all behave differently.

The white mites that are often seen in scorpion terrariums appear harmless, and are likely of many different species, but similar to the eye. They enter as eggs along with substrate, wood etc. and are not known to parasitize scorpions, but rather feed upon feces, dead crickets and other organic material. If huge populations build up, they may stress the scorpion by crawling over it, or, in rare cases, by nibbling on newly molted scorpions.

Freezing substrate before use may help, as does picking up dead insects and such. Mites are prone to desiccation, so in planted terrariums that cannot be stripped you can relocate the scorpion and allow the substrate to dry. Zoo Med Terrarium Cleaner and hot water can be used on wood, water bowls, etc.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.

You can email photos to me at findiviglio@thatpetplace.com.
Scorpions are difficult to ID by photo, especially individuals collected from areas where many species occur…often one needs to check the shape of the chelicerae, arrangement of telson segments and so on. However, I can forward the photos to a colleague who is more knowledgeable than I if need be.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.

Well, based on body shape alone (color varies a great deal) it does appear to be in the genus Centruroides…many of which are quite toxic, especially to children and elderly or immune compromised people. Over 20 species of scorpions inhabit Texas, and some of the more dangerous ones are extremely difficult to tell apart.

The most commonly encountered species, especially in homes, is the striped bark scorpion, C. vittatus (which I believe someone mentioned to you as a possibility after looking one over?). That could be hat you have, but again there are others that resemble it. C. vittatus is not considered dangerously venomous, but individual sensitivities must be considered. I’ve sent the photos off to a colleague and will get back to you as soon as I have more news.

As I mentioned, keeping a home scorpion-free can be quite difficult. You may want to contact your State Department of Environmental Protection (Dept. of Wildlife, etc.) for suggestions. Once you have their input, you can contact an exterminator if they so advise.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.

Thanks very much for the update. Glad your sister found something that works…I’ll keep that product name on file, in case someone else writes in.

I appreciate your letting me know that the folks at Tyler confirmed the scorpion’s ID. Is that Caldwell Zoo? I missed it my last time in Texas, would like to see their native fish/herp exhibit in the future. Texas has some zoos with great herp collections and very knowledgeable people working there – Fort Worth is a favorite of mine.

I’ve seen striped scorpions in such a variety of shades and patterns; it’s good to have the photos that you sent for reference in the future. The striped scorpion gets further east than some of the similar species (my friend collects them in Louisiana) – I think it gets very complicated in West Texas, however, as there many more types there.

Its funny how that works with crickets, isn’t it? It’s pretty difficult to breed them in colonies, as adults eat any eggs they find. But in a terrarium, where there is more room and deeper substrate, sometimes it works out. I once had a self-sustaining group in an exhibit housing cottonmouths, anoles and green treefrogs…made for a very lively exhibit. They shouldn’t bother the scorpion, although as they get larger it might not be a good idea to have so many in there at molting time. You can easily lure them into a baited jar if you want to remove some.

Thanks again, enjoy and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.

Thanks very much, I’ve heard good things about that zoo.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Raksha, Frank Indiviglio here.

Nice to hear from you again.

The Snake Plant (Sansevieria trifasciata) is native to West African, within the range of the emperor scorpion, and does very well in damp to wet substrate and moderate light levels. It is readily available, and the leaves are sturdy and able to stand up to scorpions and other terrarium animals. It does grow tall, however, and is difficult to prune due to the nature of the leaves. In low light, however, it grows very slowly.

Cast Iron Plants, Earth Stars and Chinese Evergreens also do fine in scorpion terrariums, but are not native to West Africa.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Jessica, Frank Indiviglio here.

Thanks for your interest in our blog.

Unfortunately, we know next to nothing about the diseases that inflict scorpions; your animals may have been ill when purchased. Age is difficult to access as well, so it is possible that they were elderly and died of natural causes. The symptoms you describe could be indicative of either. Providing a proper environment is the closest thing we have to “medicine” for scorpions.

Activity is not always a good sign…in fact, scorpions tend to be relatively inactive if well fed, moving about only to hunt, seek a mate or maintain their burrows. Frantic running about as you describe, and, especially, hanging from the screen top, are likely signs that something is wrong – i.e. aggression from a tank mate or overly warm temperatures.

Emperor scorpions fare best at 78-85 F; much above 90F would be stressful. In the wild, they burrow deeply during hot and dry weather. If you are not currently doing so, you might try providing 6-8 inches of substrate, to allow for deep burrows and also ground cover in the form of cork bark and dead leaves.

A night viewing bulb will assist you in observing your scorpions at night, when they are most active.

I’m sorry I could not be of more help concerning the deaths of your animals.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Raksha, Frank Indiviglio here.

You’re quite welcome, thanks for writing back.

Earth stars are a great choice…I first became aware of them through one of the early pioneers in tarantula keeping. He was searching for an interesting-looking plant that thrived in dark terrariums. In low-light conditions, they turn brownish but regain their red coloration as soon as more light is provided. Their structure is actually perfect for scorpions…the leaves are sturdy and raised slightly off the ground, providing a secure network of “underbrush” through which the scorpions can navigate.

I hope the scorpions settle in and breed in time.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.

Nice to see that you are so thorough in seeking to provide an ideal habitat for your animals.

Your temperature and humidity levels seem to be fine. Plants in scorpion tanks can assist in breaking down waste products, but are not necessary. Most people add them simply for their decorative value. Some also enjoy recreating habitat replications, using plants native to the scorpion’s range, as we do in zoos. While this is critical for some animals, as regards emperors it is mainly a matter of personal interest.

Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Jessica, Frank Indiviglio here.

Thanks so much for the kind words…very glad I could be of some help.

Yes, scorpions are very much aware of their environment, despite being more or less blind. The tiny hairs they possess are incredibly sensitive to changes in air pressure (the most sensitive known, and basically unchanged for millions of years), and chemo-sensing abilities also help them to form a good picture of where they are and what is happening. Glad they have settled in.

Concerning temperatures, people often extrapolate an animal’s needs from the average temperatures of its natural habitat. However, many species, including emperor scorpions, utilize micro-habitats that are vastly different from the general habitat in terms of temperature, humidity, etc. The classic example is the Gila monster lizard, which lives in one of the hottest, driest places on earth. So zoos kept them hot and dry, and the lizards did poorly, spending most of their time lying in water bowls. Turns out they spend 98% of their time deep below-ground, where the temperature is 20-25 F lower than ambient, and humidity levels are as high as 6o-70%. They eat 2-3 big meals each year, and move about only during the breeding season. Emperor scorpions are also very good at avoiding temperature extremes.

Regarding over-eating, many animals do not have a “shut-off”, as meals are un-predictable in the wild, and often become obese in captivity. Scorpions seem rather individualistic in this regard – perhaps it depends upon where within their range they originated. Some will gorge until the body plates are stretched apart, revealing the underlying exoskeleton layer; others take only a cricket or 2 every few days. Gravid females eat a great deal early on, and then slow down. As the young develop the female will appear ready to burst – this usually comes on rather quickly, i.e. one day she looks fine, then huge. Let them eat heavily for now, as they may be making up for lost time while in transit, then please write back and let me know how they are doing.

I have not heard of scorpions consuming sand or earth, but watch them…many animals do so, in order to obtain salts and minerals. Please let me know if you see anything interesting.

Many serious hobbyists are making great strides in invertebrate husbandry, more so than zoos in many cases, but many people also seem to enjoy seeing their ideas or opinions in print, regardless of the validity of what is being written. The inter net is a great research tool, but unfortunately you need to be able to evaluate the writer before accepting any advice as there is no peer review or fact-checking of posted information in most cases. For subjects with which I am unfamiliar, I always turn to books. Books published by reputable publishing houses must pass rigid evaluations by several experts in the field in question, and are therefore far more reliable than most inter net sites.

Please don’t hesitate to write in at any time…animal care and conservation is my lifelong career and passion, and so I am always pleased if I can make some useful contribution.
Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Tommy, Frank Indiviglio here.

Thanks for the kind words…I’m glad the information was useful to you.

Regular sand is technically okay, however scorpions are quite sensitive to pesticides and other chemicals that may find their way into the sand. Also, since the sand will be dry, burrows do not usually hold up well. I prefer something like Zoo Med Repti-Sand , which has no harmful chemicals or other additives. The sand used also holds up a bit better as regards burrows, and you can mix white and red/tan to create a nice desert-like effect. I find that mixing in some aquarium gravel is also useful when keeping burrowing scorpions, as it helps the burrows retain their structure. Desert hairy scorpions often burrow near or below cover, so add some bark on the surface as well.

They need only be misted lightly every other day or so, and be sure the tank dries out. A small water bowl can be offered once weekly, but most of their water comes via food. Provide as much variety as possible – waxworms, newly molted mealworms, etc., in addition to crickets. They often go off feed, perhaps keyed to an internal cycle, but this is not a concern if they are in good weight.

The type of swelling exhibited by gravid females is slightly different than that of one that is merely heavy, but I think you need to see quite a few up close in order to notice the difference. To be honest, I have often been surprised by babies, even after working with many species long term. Gravid females often feed heavily, then cease and become either shy or aggressive, but again this varies greatly among individual scorpions.

Please write back if you need further information. Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.