Emperor Scorpion, Pandinus imperator, Care – Part 1
One of the world's largest scorpions, the emperor is also the most widely kept, and captive born specimens are readily available. Other than females with young on their back, emperor scorpions are rather mild-mannered. The sting may be painful, but is not considered dangerous to healthy adults.
Physical Description
Females may reach 7 inches in length and, when gravid, exceed 50 grams in weight (by way of comparison, the average house mouse weighs 20 grams); males are slightly smaller. Both sexes are jet black in color.
Range and Habitat
Emperor scorpions thrive in areas of high humidity, and are generally associated with rainforests. There are some reports of populations living in wet savannas and human-influenced habitats as well. They are native to northwest and north-central Africa, with their range extending from Mauritania south and east to Zaire.
Status in the Wild
Wild populations have been little-studied, but concern over huge exports in the early 1990's led to the listing of this species on CITES II. Those in the US trade are largely captive bred, although animals "ranched" in Togo and Benin are sometimes imported. The closely related P. dictator and P. gambiensis, uncommon in the pet trade, are also listed on CITES II.
CAPTIVE HUSBANDRY
The Enclosure
Provide your scorpions with as much space as possible. A pair can be kept in a 10 gallon aquarium, but larger is always better; a 20 gallon can support 4-6 animals. The screen cover should be secured with cage clamps.
Physical Environment - Habitat Type and Terrarium Decorations
Emperor scorpions inhabit extensive burrow systems in the wild, and should be given the opportunity to burrow in captivity. Under such conditions, they will exhibit a wide range of interesting behaviors - far more so than if kept in a simple terrarium. When able to construct secure burrows, captive scorpions become quite confident and therefore more likely to show themselves.
Emperors also take readily to artificial caves and hideouts excavated below driftwood and other structures. I once created a very interesting exhibit by partially burying a number of artificial caves at different levels within the substrate of a 55 gallon aquarium. The resident colony of emperor scorpions dug pathways between the various cave entrances and established a complicated maze of "avenues" - more reminiscent of rodent runways than anything one might associate with an invertebrate. I highly recommend this type of set up for your scorpions - please write in if you'd like more specific information.
Substrate
Excavator Clay Burrowing Substrate is specifically designed for fossorial animals and is a great choice for burrowing scorpions. A few handfuls of Jungle Earth Reptile Bedding should be mixed in to help retain moisture.
Click: Emperor Scorpion, Pandinus imperator, Care - Part 2, to read the second part of this article.
Thanks,
Frank Indiviglio
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March 16th, 2009 at 11:07 am
if they have big caves than you cant mist them becuase they will hide from you and you are spose to so they can molt.
March 16th, 2009 at 1:28 pm
Hello Spencer,
Frank Indiviglio here, thanks for your comment.
Misting is useful in maintaining high humidity. The value of caves and burrows is in their ability to retain moisture so that a humid retreat will always be available to the scorpions, regardless of the misting schedule.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio
March 30th, 2009 at 12:23 pm
Hello, I have inherited 2 giant miilipedes from a friend…I do not know where they are originally found. She had been feeding them carrots and the temperature was the same as in her house, not extra heat. So I wondered if you know anything about them – since I can buy everything at petplace and read about everything in your blog(my enclclopedia!) I hoped you can help! thanks.
March 30th, 2009 at 2:29 pm
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for the kind words…I’m very happy that you find our products and blog useful. I enjoy hearing about your varied (and growing!) collection. I’ve been meaning to write about millipedes – what would a “pet encyclopedia” be without them…thanks for the reminder!
Most species in the pet trade originate from Africa or Southeast Asia…if you can send a photo or detailed description I might be able to identify them, but the care of all is very similar.
You should wear disposable gloves when handling millipedes…many release a cyanide-like compound when disturbed. It has not been shown dangerous to people, unless consumed, bit it irritates the skin of some folks.
Most millipedes are generalized scavengers/decomposers, although some specialize in eating fungus or decaying wood. Pet trade species should be give a mixed salad of chopped carrots, cucumber, kale, yam, apple, orange and other produce…chop it finely, they tend to focus on favorites if given large chunks. I always mix Tetramin Fish Food Flakes and some moistened Tortoise Chow into the salad as well, just to increase the diet’s variety and nutrient content. Well-rotted (soft, “crumbly”) damp wood should be mixed into their substrate, as many consume this in the wild.
Millipedes should be given a deep, moist substrate into which they can burrow – Fir & Sphagnum Moss Bedding is ideal. A piece of Cork Bark on the surface will help retain moisture and provide an additional hiding spot.
Our local species hibernate in the winter, but pet trade species hail from warm climates and will not do well if allowed to become chilled. Keep them at 75-80 F. A Ceramic Heater or Night Viewing Bulb will provide heat without disturbing their day/night cycle (they are largely nocturnal). They will become dormant if the heater causes the substrate to dry out – you can avoid this by maintaining a depth of 4 inches or so of substrate.
I hope this is useful to you. Thanks for the vote of confidence, and please keep me posted on their progress.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
August 3rd, 2009 at 6:49 pm
hi i have a lack emperor scorpion not sure of sex but is about 5 ineches in length and im guessing about 2 years old when its in its “corner”under a log burrow it often seems 2 stand as to lift mainly back but whole body of floor have tried changing heat mat positions and my humididty is consistent 70 and is regulated air flow and temp with fans that are adjustable but steel seems to do it even when not above the matt wonder if u had any ideas just curios as to why it wud do it
August 3rd, 2009 at 9:02 pm
Hello Ozzy, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Interesting observation, thanks. If you’ve not done so, please check the temperature of the substrate itself, and of the air above. It does sound like avoidance behavior as you suggest.
Scorpions sometimes go through some odd posturing before molting or giving birth, but these are short term behaviors and I assume yours has been doing this for some time?
The other thing that comes to mind is that the animal may be reacting to air movement directly above it. S you likely know, scorpions possess fine hairs that detect air movement caused by predators and prey. Does the animal do this when you remove the terrarium top, lift its log, or otherwise move about nearby? If it is particularly aggressive in feeding or defending itself, it may be reaching towards the disturbance. Just a thought…please let me know what you think.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
August 3rd, 2009 at 9:32 pm
its only started doing it the past couple of days i only use the fans every hour or so for 5 mins he has two areas under some log pieces one side with heat matt and one side with out a walk way of substrate going up over one side as a bank and room too dig ive only had it a few months but its never dug in or anything to suggest heat and have tried all temps and variations it often will do it and stay like that for an hour or 2 sometimes more and stays like that even when i change its environment and i do not disturb it and chek later and is still same
August 3rd, 2009 at 9:36 pm
i cudnt rule out pregnancy as i havent had it long and currently dnt know its sex as its hard 2 tell from its pectines is there any other way to sex it
August 4th, 2009 at 12:01 am
Hello Ozzy, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the feedback.
It seems like you are covering all the bases. I can’t say I’ve ever seen a scorpion act as you describe. You might try adding more ground cover, places to hide etc. on the outside chance that it does not feel secure in its hiding spot. Other than that, perhaps the behavior is associated with pregnancy, although such is not typical.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
August 4th, 2009 at 12:09 am
Hello Ozzy, Frank Indiviglio here.
Sexing via the pectines is quite difficult – those of the male are slightly longer than those of the female, but there is much individual variation. When a group of adults are viewed together, males will generally be a bit smaller and more thinly built. Their telsons/tails are thinner than females’, and the individual tail segments are longer. But the differences are not readily apparent when scorpions are viewed in isolation.
Well, I hope to hear next that your scorpion has nymphs on her back!
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
August 4th, 2009 at 1:10 am
thank you for ure help will let u know how it goes cheerz ozzy
August 4th, 2009 at 7:27 pm
Hello Ozzy, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks….please let me know what develops.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
August 13th, 2009 at 1:46 pm
Hello,
I just put my scorpions in a new tank and they have been burrowing alot. They have been puching each other around and fighting a bit to get into where they are burrowing.
Now the female, who is like a inch bigger in hiding under another log and both have what looks like a drop of this clear blue-ish colored stuff on theyre claw.
I read theyre blood is a blue color, do you think they hurt each other?
August 13th, 2009 at 4:00 pm
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Moving animals to a new habitat, even if larger and better provisioned, often spurs fighting among individuals that had previously co-existed. Sometimes it’s a matter of competition over prime retreats (as it seems to be here); interestingly, providing enough room for a near-normally sized territory (a good idea in most cases), may result in severe competition among individuals that got along where territorial boundaries could not be established (I have lost birds and crocodilians in zoo exhibits in such situations).
The injuries likely did arise from fighting…there is not much that can be done as regards treatment; small injuries usually heal, but you’ll need to watch that the animals get along now that they have settled in. Extra ground cover and heavy feeding would be a good idea until you are satisfied that the fighting was just a short-term adjustment to their new situation.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
August 18th, 2009 at 6:57 pm
there is starting to be mould of sorts on the inside of my tank blue and red mainly on 1 wall and a little on the wood cave structures is this at all serious and what should i look out for
also since last time my scorpion has setled now and is no longer standing all time seemed 2 be temp related noticed recently tho not eating alot and hasnt been out for a few days even at night i know they dont eat regularly but only eats bout 3 or 4 crickets a week is this inusual
August 18th, 2009 at 11:30 pm
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the feedback and glad that you were able to adjust the temperature.
Their appetites vary, sometimes they load up for awhile, and then stop; this could be related to “internal clocks” /circadian rhythms or just a matter of activity levels and so on. Gravid females sometimes eat heavily and then go off feed. ..but 3-4 crickets weekly is average for many well-fed individuals. Try to vary the foods offered as well.
The mold/fungus is likely not harmful, all sorts, even mushrooms, often spring up in damp exhibits/terrariums.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
August 20th, 2009 at 9:04 am
hello frank indiviglio, thanks for your useful care for the emperor scorpion. i am very interested in these scorpion and i think i would ask some
most people says that these things goes over 7-8 inches in length, but what i would like to know is is that from the tip of the longed tail to the head, or from the curled tail to the head (scorp can curl the tail, right) thanks for the info and anyway im from indonesia so my vocab isnt so good.
also, males are usually aggresive towards other males because they’re territorials, so why can we house them comunally? cant they cause casualty?
and last, can i feed scorp small lizards or house geckos? i’ve seen pics of scorp sucking down a lizard, but i dont know if this is good or no..
thanks frank. regards, jason
August 20th, 2009 at 6:04 pm
thanks again for your help has helped put ma mind at ease thank you also have been thinking of attemting to introduce another scorpion soon, obv will atleast double size of tank and make sure they both got seperate hides far away and put a glass divide and treat them seperately for a while then remove the divide any othher suggestions for introducing would be greatly appreciated
thnks nath
August 20th, 2009 at 9:42 pm
Hello Jason, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog and kind words.
The size refers to the length from the head to the tip of the tail.
Emperor scorpions are unusual in being fairly social; they often live in colonies and females care for and even feed the young. However, in captivity they must be introduced slowly and watched carefully. Not all get along, especially males. Providing a deep substrate for burrowing and plenty of cover to provide barriers is useful. Night viewing bulbs will help you to observe their behavior at night, when fighting is most likely to occur. We are not sure why some males fight and others do not – the size of the terrarium, the origin of the animals (those in some populations may be more social than others), the presence or absence of females can all play a role.
The bulk of their \natural diet consists of insects, spiders and other invertebrates. Certainly they’ll take a small lizard on occasion, but such is not necessary. Also, scorpions usually just grab their prey and begin munching away…not a very pleasant ending for a vertebrate, as death usually comes quite slowly due to the thick skin and bones.
Please let me know if you need further information.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
August 20th, 2009 at 10:10 pm
Hello Ozzy, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the kind words.
Good thinking on the introduction divider; people tend to ignore that important step with invertebrates. I’ve even tried such the notoriously ant-social mantids (a failure!… except for dead leaf mantids, which get along rather well most of the time).
I’d suggest a screen as opposed to glass divider, as scorpions sense one another largely via chemical means and with the air-pressure sensitive hairs (the eyes being able to distinguish little beyond light and dark).
Observing them with a night viewing bulb will give you a better handle on what to expect, as they’ll be more active at night.
Providing a deep substrate and lots of bark, logs and such to break up the terrarium floor and allow them to stay away from one another if need be is also helpful.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
August 22nd, 2009 at 7:12 am
hello frank. thanks for your useful reply. i think i have any more question to ask,
how fatal can the fight (if they fight) be? killing or make one loses body parts?
some caresheet says that they may ocassionaly take pinkie mice, as i live indonesia, it’s easier to get house geckos, lizards, etc more than pinkies. your saying that isnt too necesarry makes me think that that ocassionally thing is just something for fun and allowed, but not necesarry right?
what burrow should i have? like the exoterra ones resembles caves more than burrow is that ok? may i just make one from paper, make them pipelike and then put them to the ground so it looks like a burrow? perhaps few moist will make the paper wet but still saves the shape of the burrow lol
how easy are females and males to breed?
August 22nd, 2009 at 2:07 pm
Hello Jason, Frank Indiviglio here.
Nice to hear from you again.
Fights can lead to fatalities, so you’ll need to watch them carefully. A screen divider placed between new animals, so you can judge their reactions, is useful.
Unfortunately, many people feed live mice and lizards to scorpions, frogs and others more for the supposed “entertainment value” than as a means of providing proper nutrition. As mentioned, field research indicates that scorpions rarely if ever consume vertebrates in the wild, and are not equipped to digest them on a regular basis. An appropriate diet consists of crickets, roaches, mealworms, waxworms and wild-caught insects. An easy way to provide dietary variety is to use a feeding tong to offer canned insects.
Emperors will utilize artificial caves but prefer to hide beneath cork bark or to dig burrows. Like many invertebrates, the feeling of contact (via sensory hairs) with an overhead surface signals scorpions that they are securely hidden. If you do use a cave, bury it halfway in the substrate and fill in the interior a bit if it is very large.
The artificial burrow you mention sounds interesting…please let me know how that works out. You can also construct burrows from upholstery foam; they may just decide to dig their own, however. Please see my article Creating an “Ant Farm” for Burrowing Pets for additional ideas.
Assuming the pair co-exist and have a sufficiently large terrarium and are given proper care, reproduction can be expected.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
August 24th, 2009 at 10:09 am
hi frank, thanks for the reply.
i still dont know wheher to get them or not. of course first i have to do research first. and then i have my parents (although they aloow me to have lizards, i dont know with these lol.), also emperor scorp is rare to be sold here, i’ve seen only two online pet shop who sells them in indonesia, one sells babies and the second sells 2 adult (i dk if that’s pair, but he keep them together in a tank and seems to do fine lol) and im moving up soon so i think wether to get them befor or after because it will be harder to move up as im selling my bts too and will use the tank for some good red eyed croc skink and then the old croc skink tank (15 gaL) i think will be used for a / pair of scorpion lol.
here i can find good substrate of coco peat (peat mos or coco husk i dk) but it looks good like exo-terra plantation soil ets. hides will be thought later if i even got them lol.
anyway.. are they fond of adds? like artificial plants, log, or rocks?
August 24th, 2009 at 11:14 am
Hello Jason, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the feedback.
Habitat furnishings such as artificial rocks and such are useful in breaking up the habitat – this is especially important when several scorpions are housed together, as it allows them to keep some barriers and distance between one another.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
November 7th, 2009 at 5:53 am
i have 1 emperor scorpion in a (20gal LONG) how many can i have in a tank this size?
November 7th, 2009 at 11:43 am
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Three-four adults would fit nicely, with room for burrows and normal behavior. However, much depend upon how they get along; 1 male and 2 females would be ideal. Try to obtain a group that is already housed together – you’ll need to introduce them very gradually, and observe their interactions closely (a night viewing bulb would be worthwhile, as aggression may occur only after dark).
You can increase the chances of their co-existing by providing a deep substrate into which they can burrow and lots of driftwood, caves and other cage furniture. A second tank should be on hand in case of breeding; usually you will need to relocate all except the breeding female.
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
November 9th, 2009 at 4:42 pm
would it be a good idea to get a humidimitr for my emperor scopion you no the ones made by eco tera
November 9th, 2009 at 5:18 pm
this is my ste-up i have a 20gal-long tank with lid-clips zoo-md heat-pad T-rex calcium-sand mixe with eco-earth for hiding places i have 3 eco-tera size small caves and 1 T-rex peak a viu borrow and i use a Zoo-md water bowl and for flat surface i have slate-stone and for climding i have 2 pieces of cactus would any room for improvement i was thiking about gotting A humidifier made by eco-tera what do you think?
November 9th, 2009 at 8:51 pm
Hello Mark, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
It’s not usually necessary; you can usually keep the humidity up by using a moisture-retaining substrate, providing burrowing opportunities and misting…please let me know if you need specifics.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
November 9th, 2009 at 9:22 pm
could you help me uot on this one Frank i nead the exact temperature and humidity you no numbers. and my substeate it coconut-fiber eco earth but it’s bone dry by morning i even put a miny drippre on it and misting hans no effest.
November 9th, 2009 at 9:26 pm
Hello Mark, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the feedback.
Eco Earth is useful…burrows will hold their shape well and moisture retention will be high, which will raise the humidity level. Sand, however, tends to pull water out of the other substrates, and is not the best choice. A small amount, just to give the substrate structure, is fine, however.
Use enough substrate to allow for deep burrows – ½ to ¾ of the tank can be filled. Caves work well also, but emperors often prefer to dig their own.
Sphagnum moss has great water-retaining qualities. Adding damp sphagnum to the caves’ interiors is always a good idea, as is mixing it in with the other substrate if need be.
Concerning the heat pad…check your air temperature; heat pads often warm only the nearby substrate, leaving the air cool.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
November 9th, 2009 at 9:51 pm
Hello Mark, Frank Indiviglio here.
Temperature can range from 78-86 F, with 82-84 being ideal; humidity 70-85%, but humidity can be lower (to 50%) on the surface as long as the shelters/burrows are damp. It’s hard to measure below ground, but if the substrate is damp, or a cave is packed with damp sphagnum, the scorpions will be fine.
Your heat pad may be drying out the substrate…a ceramic heater might be preferable, as this will warm the air as well. Any heating element can dry the soil, so it will still need monitoring.
If it is overly dry, try soaking it with water (pouring water onto the substrate) until it is of a consistency where it clumps together when squeezed – i.e just barely holds together, but does not shed water – not very scientific, but effective. Mixing sphagnum moss directly into the coconut husk will also help. You can cover ½ the screen lid with plastic, which will also help. Humidifiers are not usually needed except in very arid regions, or sometimes in homes with forced air heating.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
November 12th, 2009 at 9:18 am
hey frank Mark here i need do know the name of a site that sells emperor scorpions for under $20.00 and what do wou keep the babys in?
November 12th, 2009 at 1:39 pm
Hello Mark, Frank Indiviglio here.
Hatari Invertebrates http://www.insecthobbyist.com/hatari/ is a very dependable, long-established supplier; prices vary with availability, but always reasonable there.
Young can be housed as recommended for adults; they are not great at catching food at first, so monitor them in a large terrarium or set them up in a smaller situation until you are confident that they are feeding.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.