Hibernation/Brumation in Captive Bearded Dragons and other Reptiles and Amphibians: Request for Information
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
The process of hibernation (or brumation) in reptiles and amphibians seems subject to a great many factors. For example, I have noticed that spotted and Eastern box turtles, and other temperate North American species, vary greatly in this regard. In captivity, wild-caught individuals usually slow down (activity and feeding) during the winter, even if kept warm and given a photoperiod of 12 hours. Captive-born animals of the same species most often continue to feed throughout the winter.
Green frogs, garter snakes, musk turtles and others, however, usually stay active if kept warm in winter, even if wild-caught.
A recent email from a colleague brought up the subject of bearded dragons. His animal becomes lethargic and ceases feeding in October, despite a long photoperiod, and high ambient and basking temperatures. Most bearded dragons in the US pet trade are several generations removed from the wild, yet the tendency to hibernate persists in some. Many bearded dragons, however, remain active all year. I am wondering if what we are seeing is related to the natural range of our pets’ ancestors… perhaps those from certain areas hibernate in the wild and retain this pattern in captivity?
A Request for Help
Internal (circadian) rhythms exert their influence on most animals, and an understanding of their workings is vital from both a pet-keeping and conservation point of view. I would greatly appreciate being informed of any seasonal changes in activity that you notice among your pets. Please write in and I’ll mention your observations in future articles.
Thanks, Frank Indiviglio.
Some North American turtles are incredibly cold-tolerant, and are being studied to see if the mechanisms they use might be applied to the possible storage of human organs destined for transplant. The abstract of an interesting The Journal of Herpetology article is posted at:
http://www.jstor.org/pss/1565569
If you’re looking for general care information on bearded dragons, check out my article: Bearded Dragon Natural History and Captive Care.
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about 1 year ago
Thanks, will do! With lots of luck I will find a mate for her next year.
about 1 year ago
Hello Raksha, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks…my pleasure. Enjoy and please let me know how all goes or if you need anything,
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 weeks ago
Hello Frank: I wonder if you could give me some advice about my bearded dragon who has stopped eating. He is one year old – tank is 52 gallon, about 3 inches of playground sand, a basking area, temps at 110 in the day and 60 at night… He used to eat crickets, mealworms, veg and fruit without any issue but about 1 month ago pretty much stopped eating. |Once in a while he will eat from my hand – maybe 2 worms a week but thats it. I have given him warm baths in which he poops but it doesnt seem to help… So, any suggestons? Thanks so much.. Rahim
about 2 weeks ago
Hello Rahim
Thanks for your interest. If you are in located in the southern Hemisphere, non -feeding may be due to the semi-hibernation status described in the article. An intestinal blockage can also be involved. Although they live in sandy habitats, captive bearded dragons sometimes become impacted – diet, water intake, type of sand and other factors may affect this. You’ll need to bring the animal to an experienced vet to determine if this is the problem (please let me know if you need help in locating a vet).
Mealworms are not a great food; best to use only newly-molted grubs (please see this article) or pupae.
A hot basking spot is necessary, but the rest of the tank should be at 85-90 F and that a strong UVB source is available as well. Nightime temperatures are best kept at 75-80 F; 60 is tolerated at times in the wild, but, on a regular basis, is risky for captives.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 week ago
Hello again Frank: I just wanted to let you know that I took my dragon to the vet. Sure enough he was impacted. They were able to fix him up and I have since taken the sand out of his tank (outdoor carpet now). They also told me to feed him only veg and fruit (so no more crickets and worms). He hasn’t really improved. It’s been a few days and he isn’t eating or the other. There was nothing of concern in his blood tests at the vet. so I guess we will wait and see what happens. Thanks again for your advice… Rahim
about 1 week ago
Hello Rahim
Thanks for the feedback; glad the vet was able to help.
He’ll be reluctant to feed due to the trauma, but also, captive Bearded Dragons often refuse plant foods, especially if they have been on insect-only diets. You may need to mix some live food into the salad to entice him.
Newly molted mealworms are low in chitin, and less likely to cause problems [please see this article http://blogs.thatpetplace.com/thatreptileblog/2008/10/24/making-the-most-of-the-mealworm-some-tips-on-enhancing-the-nutritional-value-of-this-pet-trade-staple/ for info on ensuring a supply. If you try crickets, use 1/2 grown individuals (less indigestible parts) and remove the back legs (a pinch at the “knee” will cause the crickets to shed the rear legs). Black soldier fly grubs http://blogs.thatpetplace.com/thatreptileblog/2011/10/18/black-soldier-fly-larvae-calciworms-as-food-for-reptiles-and-amphibians/ molt often and, while soft, are also safer in terms of chitin/blockages. Eventually, you’ll need to add insects back into the diet in larger quantities (s/w vet first) as animal protein is needed. We can discuss other options when you’re ready.
You may wish to look into Bearded Dragon commercial diets with your vet as well..if accepted, would likely provide more complete nutrition than plant foods alone.
For now, main thing is to allow for healing, so avoid insects as advised.
Best, Frank
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.