My Animal Collection: How a Herpetologist Keeps American Toads and Related Species, Part III

Hello Sue, Frank Indiviglio here.

Thanks for your interest in our blog and the kind words.

Raising frogs from tadpoles is quite an accomplishment – even in zoos American toads and treefrogs are problematical in that regard. Sounds like you are trying hard and making great progress.

The supplement mix you are using is a good one, you can up it to 3x week for the ailing toad, 1-2x weekly if you use wild caught insects in the summer. We don’t really have much evidence of over-supplementation problems, – I just try to be cautious, but I vary my usage with the situation.

You can feed according to their appetites in the winter – they may change in time, becoming more likely to feed as the years pass. Those that do not feed well seem able to regulate their metabolisms and do not lose weight.

You can put the treefrogs together if they feed while you are watching, so that you can monitor intake; when they do lose weight, it shows first via protruding hip bones.

Growing frogs and toads can be fed small meals 5-7 times per week in the summer, or every-other day or so if larger meals are given. Fruit flies are good when the frogs are tiny, but try to add something more substantial as they grow. Grey tree frogs favor crawling/flying insects, and often refuse earthworms. The Zoo Med Bug Napper is a good flying insect trap; you can also buy cultures of flightless house flies on line. Try also spreading a sheet below a bush or tree and shaking the foliage – this will yield a great mix of insects for both species. Waxworms are good on occasion as well, as are mealworm beetles (these are easy to culture at home).

Watch that the frogs do not swallow coconut husk…sheet moss is a bit safer for both them and the American toads.

You might be interested in my article on Providing a Balanced Diet to Reptiles and Amphibians and Keeping Gray Treefrogs as well.

It’s nice to hear from someone who is so concerned and conscientious. Please be in touch if I can be of any further help.

Enjoy your frogs, Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Riain, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.

Your question is an interesting one that often comes up among toad keepers. Toads make good pets, but, unfortunately, they should not be handled except when necessary. Amphibian skin has a mucus coating (this is difficult to see in toads, but very obvious in frogs) which protects them from bacteria and parasites. This coating rubs off easily when they are picked up (when you do need to move your toad, always wet your hands first). The toad will replace the mucus, but until it does its skin will be open to attack by harmful bacteria.

Also, toads release poisonous fluids when they are disturbed…this can cause a painful irritation if it gets into your eyes, mouth or an open cut. Like all animals, toads can also carry bacteria that can be harmful to people – you should always wash thoroughly after handling any animal or cleaning its cage.

The liquid that the toad releases is water that is stored in preparation for dry weather. It does this in order to surprise a predator (in this case, you!)…sometimes the burst of water shocks the enemy into releasing the toad. The fact that this happens does show that the toad is frightened.

However, if not forced into frightening situations, toads become very friendly in captivity and can live for many years. Your toad will soon learn to associate you with food, and will hop out for a meal when you approach. By moving slowly and allowing the toad to come to you, you can also teach it to take food from your hand or a plastic feeding tongs. This is really the best way to interact with a toad. It will learn to recognize that you provide food, but it cannot respond to handling in the way a dog or cat can.

Please check out my article on Amphibian Learning Abilities for an interesting story on toads and how they learn to avoid dangerous foods.

Please write back if you would like any more information,

Take care and enjoy your toad, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.

Thank you very much for your kind words.

I think you will know a great deal about toads as time goes on. You are off to a very good start – I began just as you are doing. I wrote letters (this was long before email!) to the Bronx Zoo’s Reptile Curator about my pets when I was your age.

If you read as much as possible, do as well as you can in school, ask questions, visit zoos and observe your pets at home and animals outdoors, you will be able to learn a great many things, and perhaps discover some new information that is not yet known. I hope you continue to read my articles, and to write in whenever you have a question.

An excellent book about frogs and toads in the wild and captivity is Frogs, Toads and Treefrogs, by R.D. Bartlett. There is also a wonderful small book titled “Reptiles and Amphibians, A Guide to Familiar American Species”, by Zim and Smith. It is part of the Golden Nature Guide Series. This book is no longer sold in stores but sometimes appears on Amazon.com. It has great drawings of many reptiles and amphibians found in the USA, and is the best introduction to the subject that I know of.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Max,

Frank Indiviglio here. Nice to hear from you again.

Good question. Wood frogs and American, Fowler’s and other toads get along well in terrariums. As you have observed, they do occupy the same habitats in the wild, and feed on similarly sized invertebrates. I have set up a number of successful “forest edge” exhibits in zoos housing the two species together, along with gray treefrogs and spotted and slimy salamanders.

Wood frogs need only a shallow bowl for soaking. However, they are less resilient to desiccation than are toads, so be sure to provide damp moss under which they can shelter, or a moss-lined cave. Toads will use the water bowl during the day if need be, but wood frogs often move only after dark. A sand-wood chip substrate is fine.

Another point to keep in mind is that toads are much more aggressive in feeding than are wood frogs…most toads will come out to feed at any time, even follow you along the glass once habituated, but wood frogs generally remain quite shy. If you feed only by day, the frogs may not get a chance to feed, as the toads will consume everything. The frogs compete well after dark, so feed at that time if need be. They do not need as much food as do toads, having slower metabolisms.

Some wood frogs are high strung in captivity, so move slowly when cleaning lest they crash about, and do not handle them unless necessary.

Please keep me posted,

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Max, Frank Indiviglio here.

As usual, you have raised another interesting subject…thanks for the opportunity to discuss it.

Wood frogs (and a few others, such as gray treefrogs) have the most highly-developed systems known for dealing with cold temperatures. They are the world’s northernmost amphibian species, even ranging into the Arctic Circle in Canada. They stay below a mere 2-4 inch3es of leaf litter or within a dead log during the winter, and so face the worst the season has to offer.

Wood frogs produce a cryo-protectant – a type of glycerol – which acts as a natural anti-freeze, encircling each cell and preventing the cell from freezing. The heart continues to beat, but just barely. The process is being intensely studied for possible application to the storage of human organs earmarked for transplantation…as of now, corneas and other organs must be transplanted within a day or so of becoming available.

Six years ago I was presented with 2 gray treefrogs that had been uncovered while hibernating below 2 inches of leaf litter. Externally, they appeared frozen solid – hard as ice cubes. I re-created their hibernation situation outdoors in an area safe from foraging shrews, skunks and other predators. They emerged, healthy and active, with the spring…as I expected, but still quite a shock even after decades of observing much that is hard to believe.

Wood frogs are easier to keep during the winter than are the skinks that you mentioned last time. Even at temperatures of 50 F, and possibly lower, they remain active and will feed. This is actually their preferred temperature range…in midsummer they find moist retreats below ground or along streams, where they can remain cool. In general, temperate zone frogs do not exhibit the “automatic shutdown” during the winter in captivity, as is seen in most reptiles. At normal room temperatures, they remain active and feed well.

The only drawback to this is that they do need exposure to a cold period in order to induce breeding. Wood frogs have not been bred indoors to my knowledge…if you want to try, please let me know. It is more difficult than with tropical frogs, but might be possible.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Max, Frank Indiviglio here.

Thanks for your comment, nice to hear from you again.

Well, you’ve just perfectly described how to find wood frogs…one stumbles across them unexpectedly! They seem to spend a good deal of time well below ground, utilizing the tunnels of shrews, deer mice and other creatures in a most “toad-like” manner. Even in areas with high populations, I’ve only been able to count on finding them during the week or 2 that they are in the breeding ponds…usually mid-late march here in Southern NY.

Tadpoles will still be in the ponds now, and metamorphs stay under the leaf litter nearby for a few days before dispersing. In very hot weather wood frogs seem, at least in some places, to move towards streams…this based only on my casual observations.

Please let me know if you hit on a good method…enjoy the search!

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Max, Frank Indiviglio here.

Nice to have mink frogs around, they are quite rare here. Good luck…please let me know what you find.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Dave, Frank Indiviglio here.

Thanks for the feedback…they’ll show up when you least expect them, (and are without a container!)

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio

Hello Sue, Frank Indiviglio here. Nice to hear from you again…thanks so much for the kind words. I’m glad that you found the information useful.

We may be speaking about different coconut husk-based products. Bark-like pieces are generally hard to swallow and should be fine. It’s difficult to set down any general rules concerning the safety of the finer substrates, as there are so many variables. For example, a poorly-hydrated animal may have problems with a substrate that is easily passed by a well-hydrated animal of the same size and species.

Sphagnum moss is more expensive than similar products, but it can be rinsed and re-used several times. A layer over the chips is a fine idea, and will help retain a moist environment below.

I’m glad that you have been looking into leaf litter invertebrates as a food source…many discoveries await you. For related articles on collecting invertebrates, please see Collecting Live Food, Leaf Litter Invertebrates and Providing a Balanced Diet.
Various toad species with uncoordinated movements and difficulty in catching food are commonly reported to me. In nearly all cases, animals raised from the tadpole stage, or collected as yearlings, are involved. I have one such animal which, now 2 years of age, must be continually force fed.

A nutritional imbalance is likely at play, although autopsies of toads scheduled for release in a NYC parks re-stocking program (which I had raised from eggs) could not confirm this. However, in my experience, other toads kept under the same dietary and light regime as the afflicted individuals have fared well….I believe the affected animals may have been out-competed for food and hence suffered a deficiency. Raising animals in isolation might provide some clues.

I’ve never had a report of the condition in any of the thousands of wild-caught adults I have handled, even long term captives kept on poor diets, which leads me to believe that the sensitive early months are involved. Tadpole nutrition also has an impact…I have some very compelling evidence concerning similar problems in African clawed frogs provided inappropriate diets as tadpoles.

I’m happy to hear that your gray treefrogs are getting along.

We have allot to learn, and your input is most interesting and valuable; please keep me posted as time permits. Good luck.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Sue, Frank Indiviglio here. Nice to hear from you again.

I’ve actually seen gray treefrogs both conditions that you describe, and one was usually associated with the other. There is some evidence that too much UVB, as when a frog consistently perches right under a UVB bulb, causes corneal damage, but I have observed eye problems in exhibits not provide with UVB as well.

Unfortunately, we know little about the nature of the various growths/tumors that afflict n native frogs. Approximately 20% of a large brood reared at the Staten Island Zoo exhibited such, along with corneal problems in some. The veterinarian there removed several growths surgically but a definitive diagnosis had proven difficult. Unfortunately, survival following surgery is often quite low for small frogs. The eye problems were addressed by removing UVB light sources and treating with a variety of eye drops…again without all that much success.

Most frogs produce enormous numbers of eggs…anecdotal evidence suggests that a certain percentage of the tadpoles will exhibit severe problems and growth deformities. Tadpoles are a major food source for a variety of aquatic creatures – the large number of malformed individuals may be a normal phenomenon. Also, nutritional imbalances during the tadpole stage often do not show up until some time after transformation…I have experienced this with a wide range of species in zoo and private collections…again, we have a lot to learn.

Heat can be a source of stress – leave any terrarium light off during warm weather; if at all possible transfer the animal to a cool basement.

I suggest you continue to keep the animal alone; you may need to force feed it eventually, as nervous system problems seem to follow the symptoms you describe. Please write in if you need some advice concerning that. I may be able to recommend an experienced veterinarian in your area, but again even in zoo situations treatment is not always promising. I suggest you keep notes as to the animal’s progress – any information that we can gather and share will be of use in the future. I’ll be happy to store your notes with my own.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio

Hello Gord, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog and kind comments.

The frogs sold live in food markets in the US are almost invariably American bullfrogs raised on farms in the Southeast. When the bullfrogs are collected for market (they are raised in outdoor ponds), other species sometimes are caught accidentally, which may be what you observed.

As you noticed, the frogs are usually kept under terrible conditions. I would not suggest buying any from food markets; I have been involved in a great many confiscations of frogs from food markets in NYC (shipped out of season, etc.) – after the ordeal of collecting, shipping and display, nearly all are afflicted with Aeromonas and other bacterial infections and most die, even with veterinary attention.

American toads become quite tame in captivity but, as with most amphibians, they are best viewed as animals to observe rather than handle. Handling removes the mucus covering on the skin and leaves them open to bacterial infection. It is also not something that an amphibian can relate to in any way. They will, however, respond to you by approaching at feeding time and following your movements through the terrarium glass.

The marine toad and other large frog species will, on very rare occasions, take rodents in the wild. In all cases their diet consists primarily of invertebrates, and none have evolved to consume mammals on a regular basis. Please disregard the nonsense you may see on the inter-net regarding frogs swallowing mice and small rats. It is a very bad idea to feed mice to frogs…such invariably leads to liver, corneal and kidney problems and often to injuries inflicted by the rodents’ teeth and intestinal impactions caused by ingesting fur. The practice is carried out more for the benefit (if you can call it such) of the frog owner rather than the frog.

Land snails can safely be kept with American toads; the snail’s movements do not usually stimulate a feeding response, and individuals large enough to cause a potential impaction are too well-anchored by their sticky mucus to be ingested.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Gord, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for the feedback.

Due to the protection offered by scales, reptiles are much more resilient than are amphibians when it comes to handling. For classroom and other demonstration purposes, if an amphibian is needed, I rely upon White’s treefrogs. They are calm in demeanor and will usually climb up upon one’s hand if pressure is applied to the chest. This is preferable to actually grabbing a frog. Of course one must then watch that the frog does not leap off the hand and injure itself.

But, as regards handling, it is important to keep the nature of the animal in mind. Reptiles and amphibians are in no way comparable to small mammals or birds, and do not derive any benefit from handling in terms of social contact, etc. It may appear that calmer snakes and lizards “enjoy” being held, but it really is more a matter of tolerance.

I would suggest a pet store, assuming you are near one with a good reputation, as a source for your animals. Speak with the staff at length and ask specific questions; also ask to see the animals feed if possible, before deciding to purchase a pet.

Black-spined toads should not be kept with American toads. It is generally a bad idea to mix closely related animals that are native to different parts of the world. The parasites and other micro-organisms carried by one, which may not cause it any trouble, can be readily transferable and deadly to a relative.

American bullfrogs vary greatly in individual personality, but are usually very high strung in captivity, especially if, as is usually the case, they are wild caught. A pair would require a well-filtered aquarium of 55-75 gallons in size, and they will consume any tank-mates smaller than themselves. Raising bullfrog tadpoles is a better option if you are intent on keeping that species.

Marine toads are relatively hardy and grow quite large, but again should not be fed rodents. An adult requires an aquarium of at least 55 gallons in size.

Garter snakes feed upon toads (they are immune to the skin toxins of most). Community terrariums are somewhat difficult to maintain without a bit of experience. I suggest starting off with a single species, i.e. American toads.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Gord, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your feedback.

Be sure that your hands or the latex (powder free) gloves are wet; this will lessen he amount of mucus that may be removed.

There are not many animals that prey upon toads…some species of garter snakes can, and Eastern hognose snakes eat toads exclusively.

Marine toads are not suitable for community terrariums, as they try to consume most tank mates. They can be housed in a similar manner as American toads, but need a great deal of room – a 55-75 gallon aquarium will do. They and other large frogs excrete a great deal of ammonia with their waste products. If the terrarium is not kept scrupulously clean, the toads will absorb the ammonia through their skin and expire. Washable terrarium liners are useful in large terrariums that are difficult to break down and clean.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Sorry to hear about your frog, but you are providing it with good care and asking all the right questions….we still have a lot to learn, even as regards common species.

You can email photos to me at findiviglio@thatpetplace.com, but unfortunately I will not likely be able provide you with a diagnosis. Typically, even zoo necropsy reports on amphibian lumps are not very informative. Unless an actual encysted parasite is found, the question of cancer, bacteria, virus etc. is usually left open.

I’ve also noticed gray treefrogs moving in and out of warm areas. Glass filters out UVB rays, so the only concern re a tank near a window would be over-heating.

A steady diet of waxworms is not advisable – they have high chitin and fat levels and are a bit hard to digest; I would suggest using them once every 7-10 days. If the toad will eat after being handled, you can move him into a small plastic terrarium or similar contained for feeding, thereby keeping the prey in close proximity.

Although it sounds a bit gruesome, you can slow the crickets down a bit by pinching (not pulling) the “knees” of their rear legs. This causes the cricket to shed the leg, as a defensive reaction. It does not seem to bother the cricket – they feed immediately after shedding legs if given a chance – and is akin to a lizard shedding its tail. Putting them into the refrigerator for 5 minutes will also slow them down.
Sowbugs are fairly easy to catch and are very nutritious, probably a staple for wild toads. These are often easy to collect, or can be purchased online. Butterworms are also good (again, available on line) and “wax-worm like” in their movements, but many of those in a typical order will be too large for your toad.

I can’t say that I’ve ever heard a toad make a noise while feeding…sorry. Please keep me posted on that.

Please do not hesitate to write in at any time…I learn a great deal from the experiences of others, and am happy to help out in some small way if possible.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio

Hello Connie, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.

Several of our native toad species overlap in range and habitat (in fact, American and Fowler’s toads sometimes hybridize in the wild), and can be kept together in captivity. There are just a few points to keep in mind:

1. It is best not to mix related species from different parts of the world, as relatively benign micro-organisms that are carried by one may be transferable and dangerous to another (same reason that tourists get sick drinking water that does not bother local people).

2. Large species such as marine, Colorado River and Blomberg’s toads will consume small individuals of their own and other species.

3. Many toads become extremely bold in captivity, waiting for meals and feeding at any time of the day or night. These species will out-compete more retiring animals if housed together. Your example, Fowler’s and spadefoot toads, illustrates this nicely. Both species occur together in the wild and, providing the spadefoots can burrow, they can be kept in roughly the same manner. However, spadefoot toads never, in my experience, leave their burrows to feed during the day, no matter how well-habituated. Fowler’s toads, on the other hand, are the “golden retrievers” of the toad world, and will consume all food before the spadefoots have a chance to feed at all. Keeping them together requires quite a bit of management – i.e. removing the Fowler’s toads to a separate enclosure on nights when the spadefoots are fed.

Please let me know if you are considering any other species combinations, and I’ll be happy to offer some advice.

Good luck, enjoy your toads and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Joleen, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.

Unfortunately, American toads and bullfrogs cannot be housed together. Bullfrogs are largely aquatic, and need deep water along with dry resting places near the water. Toads are completely terrestrial, shelter in burrows in the soil, and swim poorly. Also, bullfrogs will attempt to swallow anything smaller than themselves, including other bullfrogs.

Please keep in mind that caring for 4 bullfrogs is quite a large undertaking. Even when small, they produce a great deal of waste material, which increases the water’s ammonia level. Ammonia is toxic to frogs, and will quickly kill them. Their tank needs a powerful filter and frequent water changes. They also get quite large…a pair of adult bullfrogs would need a 55 gallon aquarium to themselves.

Good luck and please let me know if you need any further information.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Christie, Frank Indiviglio here.

Thanks for your interest in our blog.

Wood frogs can be kept in terrariums but they are nearly always very high strung…much more so than gray tree frogs. They tend to hide and if disturbed will jump wildly and may injure themselves on the glass (this is especially true for wild-caught adults). They are definitely not a species to handle. Actually, as a general rule amphibians should be not be handled unless absolutely necessary. It is stressful for most and in the process the mucus coating of their skin tends to rub off (always wet your hands before handling frogs), leaving them open to bacterial infection and dehydration (gray tree frogs are somewhat resilient in this regard).

If you decide to keep the wood frog, you can maintain it at the same temperatures as suited the treefrog, but it will be somewhat more sensitive to warm weather. The terrarium set up can be similar, but with more attention given to ground cover. It will require a pool in which to soak as well and the substrate should be kept moist at all times (they are more prone to desiccation than gray treefrogs). It will eat the same types/sizes of insects as did your treefrog.

A varied diet is very important when keeping native frogs…please write back if you need further information.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Christie, Frank Indiviglio here.

Thanks so much for the kind words, much appreciated.

The bulbs are actually designed to emit UVB – necessary for many reptiles but not for most amphibians. Gray tree frogs seem especially prone to problems as they often perch right under the lights. Wood frogs would be less likely to be subjected to much light, but they do not need it…if you have live plants in the terrarium, a low-output UVB bulb, such as the Repti-Sun 2.0, would be safe to use.

Nearly all of our native frogs do best at cool temperatures…even tropical species find cool micro-habitats. In NY, wood frogs breed in mid-March, when there is often ice on the ponds they use. They feed well and remain active at 50 F. The immune systems of most native amphibians function much better at low temperatures, while bacteria and harmful micro-organisms generally prefer warmer temps. I keep native amphibians in a basement whenever possible – I have a 26 year old red salamander that has rarely experienced temperatures over 62 F. Beware of heat waves…in the wild, wood frogs migrate to cool streams of burrow deep below the leaf litter at such times.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Sue, Frank Indiviglio here.

Nice to hear from you again but sorry about the toad. Since the option is available, I would suggest releasing the distressed animal. I’ve done some casual follow-ups on released native amphibians and fishes in an enclosed outdoor pond at the Bronx Zoo. It’s amazing how often, and how quickly, many turn around, in terms of health problems. Veterinary attention is not often effective, even if available…I think releasing the animal would provide it with the best chance of recovery.

In addition to what we’ve discussed earlier re vitamins/minerals/diet, another concern in captivity is parasites. Wild toads will carry always carry a certain parasite load, which may do them no harm when all is well. In captivity, however, stress can weaken the immune system. Also, for those parasites that require only 1 host (toads), the chances of re-infection are very high due to the close confines of captivity, and parasite populations will also be unusually high (the eggs of most are shed in the toad’ s feces. In the wild, the toad would be unlikely to be easily re-infected). Parasites that require 2 hosts (snail-toad is a common scenario) will die out in captivity.

It’s very difficult to predict what might happen as regards your other toads, but your thinking is correct as regards the timing of any releases. Nutritional deficiencies are far more common in young wild-caught toads than in adults or large juveniles. Older animals might take more time to adjust to captivity, but are usually a safer option.

Please let me know also if you’d like some suggestions re captive born frogs or toads.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Sue, Frank Indiviglio here.

Although it will be difficult, the sick toad will fare better if released. Perhaps explain to your son that we know very little about curing toad diseases, but that the animal will have a good chance of recovery in the wild. I could try to refer you to an experienced veterinarian in your area, but I don’t believe would be the best course to take.

As for the others, they won’t necessarily exhibit the same problems…you’ve had them for awhile and are giving them a good diet; I’ve had groups where most did fine even though a few did not survive. Continue providing as much dietary variety as possible, especially in the warmer months when you can collect insects; sow bugs (potato bugs) are very good – being crustaceans they are quite high in Calcium. You can even buy colonies on line if they are hard to find, and for winter use.

As regards parasites, be sure to keep the cage as clean as possible; they often defecate in their water bowl so change this frequently.

Wild caught toads can do quite well, with longevities over 20 years recorded. No real way to be sure, but everyone with an interest, myself included, started out as did your son (I also had the benefit of an interested mother and grandfather – your son is very fortunate).

If you decide to keep them, please stay in touch and I’ll do my best to help you along.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Sue, Frank Indiviglio here.

Thanks for the feedback. I think you’ve made the right decision

Good luck and please be in touch if you need any information concerning your other treefrog and other toads.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.

Thanks for your interest in our blog.

I’m curious to learn what type of damage you believe the toads to be causing, as I’m a career herpetologist and have not heard them described as such.

Native amphibians are legally protected in all states, so extermination would not be an option. Also, field studies have shown that a single toad consumes upwards of 20,000 insects each summer, many of which are harmful to people and/or crops.

I may be able to refer you to a local herpetology club or wildlife rehabilitator who will collect and re-locate the animals free of charge. Please let me know your location and I’ll try to provide a contact.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Sue, Frank Indiviglio here.

Thanks for the update.

You did the right thing in releasing the toad. It’s actually unusual that people were able to see it for a few days thereafter…usually they are hared to relocate; I wouldn’t count on seeing it again, but that does not mean it is not doing well, they are difficult to find even in large zoo exhibits.

Unfortunately there is not much more to be said re the gray treefrog, as we know so little about their needs. Good idea to keep it cool; they usually do not have problems shedding, unless it is very dry. Perhaps check the size of the insects it is eating, several small items are better than 1 large; stay with insects the size of a half grown cricket or smaller if possible.

Native amphibians can be very hardy, but when problems arise they are difficult to treat. We know more about some of the pet trade “staples”; White’s treefrogs are very robust, captive bred and can take temperature extremes more easily than native species. Just a thought, for the future…

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Amanda, Frank Indiviglio here.

Thanks for your interest in our blog; I commend you for your efforts on the toad’s behalf, you’re doing well.

As for general care, you can do as described in the article for American toads – they are closely related, even able to hybridize.

The weeping may be just irritation, as would be the case in a relatively new injury. If so, you can apply Turtle Eye Drops until healing is complete. Walking suggests a new injury as well – once adjusted, toads usually do well with 1 eye, even learning to adjust their “aim” quite accurately when catching insects. If the weeping is from an infection, a vet visit would be best, but human Triple Anti-Biotic Cream (over-counter type), placed on the wound once daily, is sometimes useful.

Certain fish medications do indeed work for amphibians, but best to know what sort of bacteria or parasite one is dealing with before trying, and also dosage needs to be modified. If you notice redness or other signs of infection or fungus, let me know and I’ll go over the use of Methylene Blue with you.

One thought, and I apologize if this is evident, but when using RO water be sure to reconstitute/add back trace elements before using – otherwise the water is more or less distilled, and will leach useful salts/minerals from the toad’s body.

Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio