My Animal Collection: How a Herpetologist Keeps American Toads, Bufo (Anaxyrus) americanus and Related Species, Part II
Click: My Animal Collection: How a Herpetologist Keeps American Toads, Bufo (Anaxyrus) americanus and Related Species, Part I, to read the first part of this article.
Temperature
American toads are, in contrast to many amphibians, quite resilient in terms of temperature tolerance. However, they do best at moderate temperatures, and in the heat of summer will attempt to burrow below the substrate. Mine are kept at room temperature, which ranges from 62 F in winter to 78 F in the summer. During particularly hot spells, I move them to an air conditioned room or the cool basement.
Naturalistic and “Hybrid” Terrariums
Toads also adapt well to planted, naturalistic terrariums. A substrate of top soil and peat moss will allow them to construct burrows, which will be used repeatedly by the same animals. Cover the soil with one of the moss-based products listed above and dead leaves in order to retain moisture.
A “hybrid” type set-up combines certain features of both styles described above. A substrate of smooth aquarium stones (1/2 inch size or larger, to prevent ingestion) allows for live plants but deters burrowing (see photo).
R-Zilla Rock Dens serve well as shelters in such terrariums, or you can create your own using cork bark or rocks. When designing rock caves, consider that the toads may injure themselves if able to burrow and collapse the structure. Exo-Terra Terrarium Plants are extremely life-like and can be used to good effect in naturalistic terrariums as well.
A Terrarium for Public Display
I designed the gravel-base terrarium shown in the accompanying photo for a museum in New York City. Zoo-Med Terrarium Moss is mixed into the gravel, which itself sits on an Under-gravel Filter Plate. A drain cut into the tank’s glass bottom allows the entire terrarium to be hosed down. A water reserve is kept below the under-gravel plate, creating a damp but not wet environment for the resident toads and salamanders.
Feeding American Toads and Their Relatives
Wild Caught Invertebrates
From spring through fall, I feed my toads exclusively upon wild-caught invertebrates. A Zoo Med Bug Napper yields plenty of moths and beetles, and easily meets their needs. However, I enjoy poking around, and so also collect tree crickets, sow bugs, harvestman (“daddy longlegs”), millipedes, termites, earthworms, field crickets and caterpillars whenever I am able. I feed the toads just about every day during the summer (2-3 small insects each) and 2-3 times weekly when temperatures drop.
I avoid spiders, fireflies, ladybugs and brightly-colored insects, due to possible toxicity problems, and do not collect for a week or so after the area has been sprayed to control West Nile virus.
Commercially Available Insects
During the winter, I keep breeding colonies of sowbugs, earthworms and mealworms as a food source for my collection (regarding mealworms, feed toads only newly molted, or white grubs, and beetles). The balance of the diet is made up of crickets, roaches, waxworms and butter worms.
Training your pet to tong-feed will go a long way in helping you to introduce dietary variety. By doing so, I have been able to add Zoo Med Canned Caterpillars and Grasshoppers to my toads’ diets.
I powder feeder insects with a Tetra Repto Cal Supplement once weekly during the winter. I’ve found that such is unnecessary in summer, when wild caught invertebrates dominate the diet.
Some Thoughts on Prey Size
I have always believed that American toads are designed, by mouth structure and feeing behavior, to take smaller-sized prey than do similarly-sized frogs (i.e. the green frog, Lithobates clamitans). Even when feeding adult toads, I rarely use insects larger than a ½ to ¾ grown cricket. Toads under my care are still thriving in their late 20′s and, while I cannot document such, I believe that prey size may be a contributing factor.
Next time we’ll look at other animals that can be housed with toads, and discuss keeping American toads as free-ranging pets. Until then, please write in with your observations and questions. Thanks, until next time, Frank Indiviglio.
I’ve written other articles on toads and on amphibian care in general. Please check out the following when you have a chance:
Canned Insects and other Invertebrates – An Important New Food for Pet Reptiles and Amphibians
Providing a Balanced Diet to Reptile and Amphibian Pets – approaches to consider
Terrestrial Isopods (Sowbugs, Pillbugs, Potato Bugs) As Food for Captive Reptiles and Amphibians
Related Posts:


about 1 year ago
Well their substrate was just added withing the last few weeks, I usually wipe the inside of the tank walls off with warm water. I cleaned the water dish out with hot water and refill it everyday.
I’m looking at the list of pen vets now. I have been misting him more because he seems to sit in one spot for awhile. He wasn’t on the plant today, he was sitting under the one half cork-round and was still quite bloated wasn’t breathing quite as laborious and he didn’t have anything coming from his mouth. His eyes are still glossy.
about 1 year ago
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the feedback.
It’s a good idea to remove a thin layer (an inch or so) of substrate from the surface each week; toads often defecate in their water bowl, but may pass uric acids into the substrate. If you add a fluorescent light, you can use hardy live plants, which help take care of wastes as well – please let me know if you need more ideas on this, or on using washable/replaceable terrarium liners, moss, etc.
Best to use an instant dechlorinator in water used for the bowl and to spray the toad (sold in pet stores, tropical fish section).
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 year ago
I will start doing that more often then. I do do the at times just not as frequently as I should I’m guessing. I had live plants in the old tank with lighting but the guys seem to like to sit on them and kind of crushed them all. Is there any plants that you think I could add that wouldn’t get crushed or at least not quite as quickly. Is spring water(the kind you get in jugs at Walmart) okay to use. I usually don’t use our house water for anything because Ive tested it in the lab and its not fit for human consumption and my crabs can’t have it. I figured i would chance using it for the toads either. We live in the center of an apple orchard and the sprays get into the well i believe.
Lavi(the ill toad) was moving around when I went to spray the tank today, still doesn’t look well though. his eyes kind of look watery.
about 1 year ago
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the feedback. Chinese Evergreens, Cast Iron Plants and Snake Plants are all very sturdy and do fine in low light levels. They are popular house plants and should be easy to find. Pothos also, but needs a bit more light.
Good idea on the water – amphibians absorb everything through their skin and so are vey sensitive. If the toads were collected locally, pesticides, fertilizers could play a role in what’s going on also; lots of news on Atrazine problems these days. Avoid distilled water (leaches salts from amphibs).
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 4 months ago
Hi, Frank, I’ve really appreciated reading your advice. Been very helpful to a new toad caregiver.
I have two American/Fowlers toads (I can’t really tell which one), and one of them seems to be coming down with what I can tell is red leg. He/she’s always had a bit of reddish orange to his/her coloring, but now there is a bit of pinkish “blushing” on the underside of legs. From what I’m reading, making sure the toads’ environment is cleaned routinely and given fresh water is best, but I didn’t know if there was something better or more effective that you’ve found. Haven’t really found a vet in my area to take them to. Thoughts?
Thanks!
about 4 months ago
Hello
Thanks for your interest and the kind words.
Both species do have a pinkish blush, which can change in intensity over time. However, bet to be safe. If it is red leg, it can spread quickly (red areas) and you may see broken skin. Methylene blue is a good choice if you cannot find a vet (sold as a tropical fish med). Please see this article for details; use just enough to cover the toads abdomen…don’t force it to swim.
I may be able to send some links to in state vets; if you’d like me to look, please let me know your location.
To distinguish the 2 species, check the paratoid gland (large poison gland behind the eye). In Fowler’s Toads, the paratoid touches the cranial ridge, which is the raised line of bone behind the eye.
Please let me know if you need any further information.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 month ago
Hi Frank,
I just read through all of your articles on American toads and all of the comments on this article to make sure no one has asked my question before.
I live in southeastern Virginia and found what I believe to be a female American Toad last Thursday. I have never owned a herp before, but I am just in love with toads. I have her alone in a 10-gallon tank with 3-4 inches of substrate, a half-log, and a little ‘pond’ with rock stairs that lead out of it. The first night I had her, I ran out to petco and bought 20 small crickets. She ate them all in one day. I’ve read more since then and have been feeding her fewer larger crickets. I’ve also fed her a moth that I found outside, and plan to feed her more wild-caught “approved” insects once it gets a little warmer and they are more prevalent.
Yesterday, she shed her skin, which I had already come to expect from my reading. She was super damp-looking after she shed, but she looked fresh and happy. She buried back under her log afterward and I did not see her until I got back from all of my classes today. She is several shades darker now than she was yesterday! She was an olivey-green with lighter green and brown touches, but now she is nearly black, like the color of a ripe avocado skin. She is also moving a little sluggishly compared to when I first caught her, but maybe she is getting used to her environment and just relaxing some? I was also worried that she may be cold, since I’m keeping her in an air-conditioned dorm room.
Thank you so much for your time,
Katie
about 1 month ago
Hello Katie,
Thanks for your interest.
½ grown crickets are preferable to adults, as adults carry a good deal of indigestible material (wings, lg rear legs); usually sold as “Half inch crickets”. Best top feed the crickets for 2 days or so before offering to toad. You can use fish food flakes and orange/apple, or commercial products as described here. Be sure to use supplements as mentioned, especially while you are relying heavily on crickets.
Earthworms are one of the best foods; can form the bulk of the diet. Can be collected from pesticide free areas or bought at some pet/bait stores. Breeding info here.
Color changes are normal…in response to temperature, humidity and shedding. They remain active at 55F or even a bit lower, but will be slower, eat less. Cool temperatures are preferable, in general, for these and most native amphibians. Fungal, bacterial infections common at higher temperatures.
Wild caught toads have parasites; normal loads generally do no harm, but best to change substrate once weekly early on, to keep populations down (eggs usually passed in feces). An experienced amphibs vet can run fecal tests and medicate, but this is not always necessary and meds can be hard on their systems. Please let me know if you need help in locating a vet at some point.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 month ago
Hello Katie,
Thanks for your interest.
½ grown crickets are preferable to adults, as adults carry a good deal of indigestible material (wings, lg rear legs); usually sold as “Half inch crickets”. Best top feed the crickets for 2 days or so before offering to toad. You can use fish food flakes and orange/apple, or commercial products as described here. Be sure to use supplements as mentioned, especially while you are relying heavily on crickets.
Earthworms are one of the best foods; can form the bulk of the diet. Can be collected from pesticide free areas or bought at some pet/bait stores. Breeding info here.
Color changes are normal…in response to temperature, humidity and shedding. They remain active at 55F or even a bit lower, but will be slower, eat less. Cool temperatures are preferable, in general, for these and most native amphibians. Fungal, bacterial infections common at higher temperatures.
Wild caught toads have parasites; normal loads generally do no harm, but best to change substrate once weekly early on, to keep populations down (eggs usually passed in feces). An experienced amphibs vet can run fecal tests and medicate, but this is not always necessary and meds can be hard on their systems. Please let me know if you need help in locating a vet at some point.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.