My Animal Collection: How a Herpetologist Keeps American Toads, Bufo (Anaxyrus) americanus and Related Species, Part I
Hi, Frank Indiviglio here.
Today's article is the second in a series concerning animals in my own collection. For additional information concerning this line of articles, please see My Animal Collection: How a Herpetologist Keeps Barking Treefrogs (Hyla gratiosa) and Gray Treefrogs (Hyla versicolor).
Note: the following information is also largely applicable to other toads that commonly appear in the pet trade, i.e. the Great Plains toad, B. cognatus, the Gulf Coast toad, B. valliceps, the southern toad, B. terrestris, Woodhouse's toad, B. woodhousei and the Texas toad, B. speciosus. Fowler's toads and the various Spadefoot toads prefer arid substrates...I'll cover the care of both in the future.
Most North American toads in the Genus Bufo have been recently reclassified within the Genus Anaxyrus, but not all herpetologists agree on this point.
An Ideal Terrarium Pet
As with many of the animals I favor, American toads have much to offer the hobbyist but are not as popular as some of their more colorful relatives (actually, they vary greatly in color - I have run across yellow, reddish and nearly black specimens in the field).
Perhaps because they are so well- protected by virulent skin toxins, American toads are calm and confiding in captivity. They usually take on diurnal habits, and even wild caught adults will feed from the hand in short order. Pardon the stretch, but their behavior brings to mind that of the striped skunks I have kept. Skunks seem to know that they are "untouchable", and hence are very approachable (even in the wild)...toads are much like that, at least in my mind!
They are also quite intelligent and responsive - please see my article entitled "Amphibian Learning Abilities - the Southern Toad, Bufo (Anaxyrus) terrestris and Bumblebee Mimics" for further details.
Designing the Terrarium
I currently keep 2 yearling American toads in a Tom Aquarium Jumbo PLA-House Plastic Terrarium. This terrarium's ventilation ports assure adequate air exchange (despite favoring moist habitats, toads and other amphibians fare poorly in stagnant air) yet are small enough to prevent small feeder insects from escaping. This set-up is dismantled and cleaned weekly - the terrarium's light weight simplifies this chore.
Substrate
The substrate pictured in the photo is R-Zilla Compressed Frog Moss. American toads prefer a drier environment than do most frogs, so I use only ½ to ¾ of the amount of water called for in the instructions when preparing the moss (the moss is packaged dry, and must be reconstituted). Hagen Exo-Terra Plume Moss and Zoo Med Terrarium Moss are also good choices for toads and other amphibians.
In this terrarium, the substrate is rinsed or spot-cleaned once mid-week and replaced weekly. As with most amphibian terrariums, I use only hot water to clean, with bleach or table salt added when something stronger is called for.
Water
The terrarium is sprayed once daily with de-chlorinated water.The toads also frequently soak in their water bowl...just bear in mind that they are poor swimmers, so provide an easily-exited container for their pool.
Terrarium Decorations
I set up the terrarium in manner that encourages easy visibility and feeding- time interactions. This is not always possible with amphibian pets, of course, as secretive species will languish and die if unable to hide. American toads take to it readily however, and so observations, feeding and cleaning are much simplified. In this terrarium the toads have become quite tame - noticing when I enter the room hopping forward in anticipation of a meal.
I provide a Zoo Med Turtle Hut or a Cork Bark Hollow as a retreat, but the toads are more often to be found on top of it, scanning the moss for insects or, it seems, watching the room in general.
Light
The PLA-House Hood Light fits right onto the terrarium's lid, and is useful for providing additional illumination without excess heat.
In planted terrariums, a Reptisun 2.0 Florescent Bulb will provide sufficient light for plants without exposing the toads to harmful levels of UVB - most amphibians have UVB "filters" in their skin, and actively avoid the sun.
Click: My Animal Collection: How a Herpetologist Keeps American Toads, Bufo (Anaxyrus) americanus and Related Species, Part II to read the rest of this article.
Until than,
Frank
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March 14th, 2009 at 9:42 am
Hi, Thanks for past advice, my oscar really does enjoy canned insects , maybe more than the toads- the toads eat silkworms if I patiently move them, but the oscar eats the whole large grasshoppers ane snail pieces and silkworms as they land in the water. I use large pellets for him also, and sometimes fish – is there something welse I can feed him to fill him up?
I have read that American toads burrow in nature. They cannot really do this in the terrarium I have , is this necessary and will they be un der stress if they can not dig? (they hide below dead leaves and a fake plant? Thank you.
March 14th, 2009 at 1:58 pm
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the feedback, I’m glad to hear that the information proved useful and that your animals are doing well.
American toads do not need to burrow; they will, but actually seem to prefer naturally occurring hollows and caves if these are available. Around gardens and homes they readily occupy old flowerpots, spaces below sheds, etc. – in fact, some gardeners provide small artificial “toad houses” to encourage their presence.
Our medium-sized Rock Dens http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/prod/235238/product.web are ideally suited for American toads. Provide 1 for each animal if possible. Their use of dead leaves and such is fine, but field studies have shown that they tend to occupy permanent retreats, sometimes for years on end (wild individuals have reached 20+ years of age). A structure such as a plastic cave is more in tune with their needs – it is best to place the caves back in the same locations within the terrarium after you have changed substrates, etc.
I’m glad that your oscar is enjoying his new foods…providing dietary variety is key to maintaining good health and a long life. I have collected oscars in the Florida Everglades, where they have been introduced. The color of wild individuals, which I assume are eating a very varied diet, is simply spectacular – unmatched by any I’ve seen in the trade.
Following are some other of the foods we stock that are sure to find favor with your fish. Those containing marine animals (squid, krill) are fine to use on a regular basis, i.e. twice weekly. All are large and easily handled by medium to adult sized oscars.
Jumbomin Shrimp and Krill Sticks
Cichlid Jumbo Krill and Squid Sticks
Jumbo Freeze Dried Krill
Massivore Delight
Frozen Silversides, Sand eels
Beef Heart .
Live earthworms are a great favorite and good source of nutrition as well.
Please keep me posted, and thanks for updating me – it’s very helpful to learn of your results and ideas!
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
March 30th, 2009 at 12:51 am
do they have ainything to dig or hide in.
March 30th, 2009 at 1:55 pm
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.
American toads will dig into soil and moss or will use Artificial Caves.
They stay within very specific home ranges in the wild, and return to the same shelter each day. Therefore, in captivity their shelters should be returned to the same location after cleaning and substrate changes.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
May 28th, 2009 at 7:12 pm
Hello!
i am so pleased to find other toad lovers on the web. i have been keeping toads for a long time and only one pressing question is on my mind. one of the american toads which i have had for a long time which i have sexed as female due to its large size, has been chirping at night ever since i caught her in the wild. i have read that only males can vocalize and will do so when piked up to make their gender apparent. my toad has never chirped during handling, but at night she chirps frequently and not just in the spring.
May 28th, 2009 at 7:26 pm
Hello Max, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog; glad you enjoyed the article.
Both sexes can make a short “release call” when grabbed, but only the males produce the nighttime mating call that you are hearing. Their throats will darken as well, although in normally dark populations this may not be evident. Males in breeding condition also develop a small, thickened pad on each “thumb”…known as nuptial pads, these help them retain hold of females during amplexus (if you can locate a breeding pond, try to observe some night…males are difficult to dislodge from females, and will kick at you!).
Captive conditions can alter normal breeding behavior, and so the toad may call after the breeding season has ended.
Please let me know if you need any further information.
Enjoy, best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
May 29th, 2009 at 5:45 pm
thanks for the information frank!
i have another question for you regarding 5 lined skinks. i live in michigan and i decided to keep a young 5 lined skink i caught in the wild. the skink did well through the summer and fall but during winter when the nights got cold he did not show for several days at a time. i decided to turn off his light for the winter and let him hibernate as he would in the wild.i replenished the water ever so often but i could not tell if its absence was due to my skink or simply evaporation.
when i checked it out in early spring he was dead on the top of the substrate. what did i do wrong?
May 29th, 2009 at 6:39 pm
Hello Max,
Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for the feedback, you’re quite welcome. You raise a very important point, thank you for bringing it up.
Putting animals into hibernation, especially those recently collected, is a difficult prospect in most cases. Wild-caught animals often maintain a cycle of activity and dormancy years after being collected, even if temperatures remain warm. A group of gharials (fish-eating crocodilians) that cared for at the Bronx Zoo became dormant seasonally even after 17 years in captivity. Interestingly, animals born to wild-caught parents usually remain active year-round if kept warm.
The problem arises when the animals cease feeding, but temperatures are different from what they experience in the wild. Five-lined skinks usually over-winter below the frost line, but in Michigan would still be subjected to very low temperatures. The animal’s metabolism likely could not adjust to indoor temperatures…it may have used up its food reserves or dehydrated. A suitably long fasting period prior to hibernation is also critical. If you’d like to try again, please let me know…there are a few proven techniques you can try.
Enjoy and best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
May 29th, 2009 at 6:52 pm
thank you for the information.
if i find a skink again i may try but they are fairly rare so who knows.
May 29th, 2009 at 8:20 pm
Hello Max,
Frank Indiviglio here. You’re very welcome.
I was interested to hear that you found a five-lined skink in Michigan… you’re right near the northern limits of their range, which may explain their scarcity. They are not easy to find in NY either.
In Florida, the southern subspecies scampers about on boardwalks along Lake Okeechobee in the manner of an anole, often climbing into bushes and trees as well. I was quite surprised to see this, as the northern race seems fairly secretive.
Please keep me posted,
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
May 31st, 2009 at 10:26 am
there are actually toe species of lizard in michigan. the five lined skink which can be found as far north as traverse city (45th parallel) and the six lined race runner which lives in central michigan in small populations. i had never heard of lizards in michigan untill i came across the skink while looking for eastern hognose snakes. it was possibly the hardest animal ive ever caught!
May 31st, 2009 at 11:57 am
Hello Max, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the locale information, much appreciated.
If you captured the skink with tail intact, you’ve done better than most!
I’m always surprised to encounter lizards in the north. Here in NY we also have 2 native species – the five-lined skink and the coal skink, and two introduced species – the eastern fence swift and the Italian wall lizard.
The swifts were introduced to the Pine Barrens of Staten Island by none other than former Staten Island Zoo director and legendary snakeman Carl Kauffeld, as a food source for snakes in his collection. The wall lizards originated as escapees from a broken shipping crate, and have spread throughout much of Nassau County, Long Island. Subsequent purposeful introductions have led to their establishment in several locations within NYC, including the grounds of the NY Botanical Gardens and the Gelada Baboon Exhibit at the Bronx Zoo (not my doing!). A related wall lizard thrives in Cincinnati, Ohio and, I believe, elsewhere.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
June 9th, 2009 at 3:13 pm
Your website is very interesting and I learned alot about toads. I have caught many toads but I just cannot seem to get them to eat and end up letting them go after a few days in fear of killing them. I believe that I have the correct enviornment for them. I have had very good luck with lepard geckos, painted turtles, gray tree frogs, and garter snakes, but I just can’t get my toads to eat is there anything I could do to encourage them to eat or do i need to wait longer for them to get hungry?
June 11th, 2009 at 9:07 pm
Hello Taylor, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog and your kind words. I apologize for the long delay in responding to you…an emergency surgery put me out of commission for a time.
I applaud your thoughtfulness in releasing the toads that would not feed – that is the proper approach, but sadly not taken by some people. Toads vary a bit by species, but here are some general tips:
Adults are hardest to adjust to captivity – they may live for 20 years or more in the wild, and have very specific home territories. Change can be difficult for many. Try with a younger animal or, if you have access to tiny insects such as pinhead crickets (for newly transformed toads), perhaps consider collecting some tadpoles (do not collect adults from breeding ponds – males will not feed, and females invariably become egg bound). Please write in if you need tadpole care information.
Provide your toads with as large an enclosure as is possible; the bottom should be lined with soil that is deep enough to allow the toad to burrow completely out of sight. Mix a bit of sphagnum moss into the soil to retain moisture, and pile this about the terrarium as well to provide more cover, and add a shallow water bowl. Spray the tank daily but it is best not to dig the toads up to check on them – as long as the soil is slightly moist, they will be fine. In general, toads, even long term captives, prefer not to be handled. You can switch to a different type of enclosure as they adjust, but the above is best for wild caught animals at first. They will also use artificial caves, but deep earth should be available early on.
Feed your toads in the evening, and leave the insects in with them overnight. Observe them from a distance as the sun sets, or perhaps add a night viewing bulb, (you’ll need to monitor the temperature if you choose this option) and you may very well be able to adjust them to captivity.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
June 27th, 2009 at 4:39 pm
Hello, I am so glad to have found such an informative and delightfully written blog regarding american toads. I have been keeping two toads for just over a year, and they have both been happy and healthy until recently. Yesterday I noticed that the smaller of the two seems to have lost the function of his back legs. He is currently still eating, making waste, and having his run of the tank by dragging himself around using his front legs. He appears to still be able to move his hip girdle, but the “knee” joint is straight, and the bottoms of his hind legs are straight back as I have seen in other paraplegic animals. I feel terribly for him, and would love to know any information you have so that I can both make him as comfortable as possible and care for him to the best of my ability. Thanks in advance for your time! Best Regards, Katie.
June 27th, 2009 at 9:14 pm
Hello Katie, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks so much for your kind words and for your interest in our blog.
Unfortunately, the condition you describe is fairly common in captive American toads. Although only blood tests can provide an accurate diagnosis, in my experience a calcium and/or D3 deficiency is typically involved. An injection of Calcium Gluconate is sometimes effective in reversing the condition, but the prognosis is not promising once the animal exhibits severe symptoms. Please let me know if you’d like me to try to provide a reference to a veterinarian in your area. In the meantime, you’ll probably need to assist the animal in feeding…removing it to a bare bottomed terrarium and debilitating the food insects somewhat (i.e. removal of some legs) might be necessary. You may
need to force feed it in time as well.
American toads consume a great many species of invertebrates in the wild, more so than many other frogs and toads…young ones seem particularly prone to nutritional problems when given typical captive diets (adults are not often affected as seriously). If you’ll write in with some specifics re your animals’ diets and your use of vitamin
/mineral supplements, I’ll be happy to provide some suggestions that might be beneficial to your other toad.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
July 10th, 2009 at 8:00 pm
hello frank
i havent talked to you in a while but as you may remember i was trying to capture a wood frog. today while on a walk in the woods i unexpectedly came across a young wood frog. it is verry small perhaps a little larger than one centimeter. it is very energetic but i was just wondering since it has a verry small worm currentlyy wriggling in front of him and hes not eating it, how should i feed this little guy? should i let him get aclimated to his new set up? or should i feed him small insects instead of worms?
July 10th, 2009 at 9:24 pm
Hello Max, Frank Indiviglio here.
Yes, I do remember…nice to hear from you again.
Young wood frogs are quite shy and usually will not eat while being observed. Earthworms are a good food source but, until he takes them immediately upon being offered, most will burrow out of reach. While he’s adjusting to captivity, it will be easier to provide him with invertebrates that will move about on the surface.
Some pet stores carry ¼ inch crickets, or these can be ordered via inter net dealers. If possible, you can also collect small sow bugs, millipedes, aphids and leaf litter invertebrates…please see my articles Collecting Leaf Litter Invertebrates and Collecting Insects: an Entomologist’s Technique, for additional ideas. Small moths and midges can be collected around outdoor lights, or you can use a Zoo Med Bug Napper Insect Trap.
Provide the frog with lots of hiding spots and disturb it as little as possible for the time being. Wood frogs tend to be a bit hi-strung, but most calm down in time. Remember, at his current size your frog is on the menu of predators as small as fishing spiders, so it pays for him to be cautious.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
October 14th, 2009 at 2:11 pm
At what temperature should a toad go into hibernation? I have a toad who has adopted my house. He has been hanging around the back door and nearby steps for months. But now that it’s mid-October and temperatures are dropping at night into the low 40s and high 30s, with highs only in the 50s, I am concerned. He has dug himself into a window box- type flower pot and I have scattered some leaves over the area. But it is only about six inches deep and I am worried he will freeze to death if he doesn’t move to a deeper spot to hibernate. I don’t want to necessarily remove him from the wild because I am not sure that would be best for him. Please advise and thanks.
October 14th, 2009 at 3:18 pm
Hello Mary, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Interesting situation, and very kind of you to be so concerned. Toads may use the same home territories for over 20 years, so you may have a long term guest on your hands!
Amphibians produce a unique natural anti-freeze that keeps individual cells from freezing, despite the fact that the animal appears, to the eye, “frozen”…I’ve found gray treefrogs hibernating just below a few inches of leaf litter in southern NY.
Toads have this protection, but they do dig deeper in response to cold temperatures as well…much depends on where you are located. In southern NY, they burrow down for 6-10 inches, while in southern Canada depths of over 2 feet have been recoded. Normally I would advise you to leave the toad, but since it has chosen an artificial site, which will not allow him to go deeper as the temperatures drop, it might be better to place him in a hole of similar depth in a well-drained location; leaf cover is useful also. As the pot is, I imagine, free-standing, the dirt will also be unusually cold as it lacks the insulating effect of surrounding earth.
It would be best to move the toad soon, so that it can adjust the depth of its burrow as necessary.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
October 15th, 2009 at 11:18 am
Thanks so much for your reply Frank. I have never handled the toad before now, just enjoyed his company hanging around my house. There is an ivy-covered spot I could place him in that is right next to the door where he spent so much of the summer. The last time I was able to have a look at him in the pot was last night — it was already dark, but he seemed to be awake, eyes open, etc. This morning, his eyes appeared to be closed. He is burrowed down, with only his face somewhat exposed under some leaves I placed over where he is dug in, so I’m not getting a real good look at him, however. Last night I placed a cotton/polyester cloth very loosley over the pot, with lots of ways for him to get out if he wanted to try to provide some insulation as it was dropping to 39 degrees overnight. It will only be in the mid-40s today and there is a nor-easter coming our way, so I place some pastic sheeting above the pot to try to prevent it from getting too drenched. Again, he can easily leave the pot if he wants, the plastic would not prevent that. I think your proposal is a good one, I am just concerned about handling him and potentially stressing him out, if I move him. Please advise about this issue and again, thanks so much.
October 15th, 2009 at 11:28 am
Hello Mary, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the feedback.
They really are quite personable…some learn to hang around lights in order to catch the insects that are attracted.
You can move the toad – it will be partially dormant now and not easily stressed. Place him in a similar situation, depth wise, as he is currently in – leaf litter and plant cover is okay, but once moved don’t worry about rain and such, the toad should be fine. Mainly you want it to be able to burrow down further if need be…toads will become active, within the burrow, through the fall, at which times they sometimes dig in further.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
October 16th, 2009 at 3:32 pm
Hi Frank,
Is it dangerous to the toad that the flower pot he is dug into has potting soil in it? I am considering just moving this long pot into a tank (with a screen) large enough to hold it until the weather improves and gets warmer (it’s been in low 40s daytime, dipping to 39 degrees at night for the past few days). Then I could release him. Is that a bad idea?
October 16th, 2009 at 11:13 pm
Hello Mary, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
I would probably be better not to bring him indoors – temperature there will be much higher than outdoors, which will affect his metabolism, then it would have to re-adjust when put back out. The outdoor temperatures you mention will not harm him; he would have tried to get deeper down in the pot if that were necessary. Best to relocate him into a new hole, where he can dig deeper if need be, unless you want to keep him indoors for the entire winter.
Potting soil is fine…pesticides/ fertilizers can be a problem, but the vermiculite in pottig soil, if any, is harmless.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
October 17th, 2009 at 9:49 am
Hi Frank _ thanks as always for your prompt and very helpful replies. This blog is so imformative. Well, before I got your reply I let my anxiety get the best of me and brought the pot inside last night. I put it in a 36 inch by 20 inch screened tank. The pot had been under a plastic tarp against the cold rain, so I had not been able to see what was going on inside that pot. Once inside, I could see the toad was fine inside his burrow, wide-eyed and before long he emerged from his hole and looked around. Now he is out of the pot on the floor of the tank. So it looks like I’ll have a new winter housemate! I have two types of substrate to add to the tank, around the pot, which I’m leaving in there for now — it’s 30 inches long, so fills a good portion of the tank. One is natural coconut fiber that is mixed with water to expand, and the other is something called “Jungle Mix” fir and sphagnum peat moss. I couldn’t find what you mentioned you used in your blog — I hope these will work and appreciate any other suggestions. I’m going to get some small crickets from the pet store to feed him/her. (The neck area appears light, btw, but I haven’t really seen the dew lap.) Any other feeding or other instructions. The water in the inch-high bowl in the tank is bottled spring water. I know to spray only with spring water, but does the coconut fiber have to be reconstituted with spring water? Thanks as always for all your help. Mary
October 17th, 2009 at 1:49 pm
Hello Mary, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the kind words, and welcome to amphibian-keeping!
I find that Coconut fiber tends to cake onto insects, and may be ingested…I’ve not seen any problems, but usually reserve it for spiders and scorpions. Plain, soaked (wring till damp) sphagnum moss might be easiest for you to use, especially in a temporary situation – simply remove and replace once weekly. It won’t appear fouled, but ammonia will build up….some toads defecate solely in the water bowl, but it’s difficult to be sure about this. You can order direct from ThatPetPlace if you have trouble finding it locally.
The toad may not feed, but they sometimes adjust to the warmer temps and do. Crickets are fine for the winter, as the toad will get enough variety when released, but try to add some waxworms if available. 1-3 weekly feeding will suffice, depending upon its metabolism…lease write back once you see a pattern. Powder 1 of the weekly meals with Reptocal.
You can use tap water to spray and for the bowl, as long as you remove chlorine/chloramines with an instant water conditioner. Spring water is fine as well, but do not use distilled water.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
October 17th, 2009 at 6:08 pm
Hi Frank,
You are so kind to keep me in your blog-reply group! It makes things so much easier for someone like me, who is always worried I will do something to harm this little creature.
Well, unfortunately, I had put down the reconstituted coconut fiber before I was able to read your response. I can definitely remove it when I next clean the tank (when should that be??) and stick only with the sphagnum moss, which, fortiutously, I purchased today on my pet store run to get the crickets. I saw it there, and it just seemed right. the way you described it, it does seem easier. The instructions sat it can be rinsed and reused a few times _ is that true?
Anyway, the tank is currently filled in around the long planter with the reconstituted coconut fiber and some moss laid on top of it. (I used tap water to soak both, because the pet store said that was OK — Please let me know if this is a problem. I did not use the solution that makes it dechlorinated, but I will in future, if need be.) I’m using only spring water for the water bowl and spraying (how often?)
I also purchased a 2.0 Florescent bulb and lamp as you suggested in your blog, because there are still herbs (chives and oregano) growing in that pot.
The toad has been hiding behind the pot, but when I put in six small crickets, I do believe he ate at least one. He went for it and seemed to catch it, but I was watching from a distance, so ‘m not certain. I saw that you recommended crickets of no more than 3/4-inch length, so I decided to go small because I didn’t know what his prior feeding habits were. These were quite small — maybe a quarter inch — and they are easily able to hide in the substrate. I’m wondering if I should go with the larger ones? — the other size is about half to 3/4-inch. Please let me know.
Last thing, this toads “throat” is light with darker stripes — does that say anything about whether it is male or female? Just wondering.
Again, thanks so much for your time.
Best regards,
Mary
October 18th, 2009 at 12:34 am
Hello Frank,
Recently some green toads(Bufo debilis) appeared at a local petstore. They are small(and apparently stay that way), cute, colorful, and surprisingly active. Have you any experience with these guys? Also, any experience with breeding captive bufonids?(I heard of someone breeding spadefoot toads S. holbrooki by forgetting to change the water dish…perhaps debilis which is also an oppurtunistic breeder will be easy to convince to breed?)
Thanks much!
btw, would you have guessed this article to have become so popular?
~Joseph
October 18th, 2009 at 3:08 pm
Hi there Frank, I just had to report the toad’s latest success! He has eaten three crickets today — two large ones and a small one that I’m sure of. I released a number of small crickets into his terrarium, so he may eventually run into them. Anyway, it seems the larger size crickets work well for him — I tried to specify under 3/4 inch at the pet store. One that he ate was probably half an inch and the other 3/4 or a bit larger. So this toad is definitely hungry! He’s hanging around one corner of his spacious terrarium so far, but he was kind of like that when he was outside my house, pretty much sticking to a spot, so I think that is just his nature — to pretty much hang in one place. He has two water pools (I put a second one in closer to the corner where he stays) but so far he hasn’t used them as far as I am aware. The substrate is damp, so I am not sure how often to spray the tank — that would be good to know if you don’t mind.
Anyway, the one thing that can get this toad going is food! I did buy some was worms from the pet store, but when I got them home I realized they were all black and shriveled and dead. So I’m not sure whether I will be able to find a good source of wax worms.
As always, thanks for you help!
Best regards,
Mary
October 18th, 2009 at 3:38 pm
Hello Mary, Frank Indiviglio here.
Good news…thanks for the update.
A light misting once daily is fine; the toad will soak if needed, they are very good at regulating moisture needs; they can even absorb water from the substrate via a porous patch of skin on the chest.
Waxworms need only be used on occasion, be sure to remove any wood chips clinging to them; they take some time to move about after being in the frig best way to store them), but black ones are dead. If you supplement the crickets as mentioned earlier, then not so critical to use waxworms or other insects unless you plan on keeping the animal long-term. If you have a bait store available, earthworms are one of the best foods to use.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
October 18th, 2009 at 3:40 pm
Hello Joseph, Frank Indiviglio here.
Nice to hear from you again.
Green toads, Bufo debilis, are very well suited to terrariums; daily spraying encourages them to move about, as in the wild they are usually associated with dry habitats and limit activity to damp weather. I’ve bred a few toads – those from dry habitats are usually opportunistic breeders, unrestricted by season unless it is very cold. I’ve had Colorado River toads breed in summer, but they begin calling nearly any time extra water is provided. Green toads are reported to do the same in the wild – breeding during spring rains, but also in late summer; same with the spadefoot toads you mention. Eastern spadefoot toads in southern NY will breed from April-August.
One group of giant sideneck turtles, Podocnemis expansa, that were kept together for 60+ years in a zoo in Central America bred for the first time when there pool was dropped accidentally and re-filled – the 1 day drought/rain cycle being enough to stimulate them after all those decades of unchanging conditions!
It is as you say hard to predict what articles will become popular (isopods, for example, which you commented on often)…thanks as always for your interest.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio
October 18th, 2009 at 3:41 pm
Hello Mary, Frank Indiviglio here.
You can rinse the sphagnum and re-use; With 1 toad in a large tank, can use 3 times at least, rinse 1x/week. Change the water every 1-2 days. Spray daily, lightly (toad will soak in bowl\ when necessary, ambient humidity not so much of a concern.
Tap water on occasion is okay, chlorine dissipates in 24 hours when exposed to air; more critical for aquatic creatures.
Lager crickets, to ¾ inch are fine for adult toads; adult crickets okay on occasion…steady diet of adults can be rough on their digestive system, however.
Sexing via throat color is not reliable, varies with age; also the ranges of several similar species overlap, so you may not have an American…hybrids occur as well.
Well, you’re going about this very conscientiously…that toad certainly picked the right flowerpot!
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
October 19th, 2009 at 9:19 am
Hi Frank _ Thanks for all your wonderful advice over the weekend! Being able to ask and get questions answered from an expert such as yourself has been such a blessing.
Little toad _ that’s what I called him when he was hanging around my back door _ seems to be doing just fine. I do have two more quick questions, though. On the UV lamp — I purchased a 2.0 Florescent bulb as you suggested, for the plants. It’s just a regular light bulb-type bulb that is attached to a circular lamp which I rest on the terrarium screen. This means that it can be placed in various locations and doesn’t have to be trained on the spot where the toad likes to hang out. Or it can be on him sometimes and other times at the other end of the tank (where the plants are.) Anyway, I noted your comment about toads being sensitive to UV light, so I’m wondering if or for how long I should place the light above where the toad is?
Regarding spraying, should I just mist the terrarium in general or spray the toad with a light mist or both? (In other words, should I spray the toad?)
Thanks as always for all your help!
Best,
Mary
October 19th, 2009 at 10:43 am
Hello Mary, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the kind words, I’m glad that the information was useful.
You can keep the light over the plants, for however long they may need it each day. The toad doesn’t actually need any exposure and any that it gets incidentally will do no harm.
No need to specifically try to hit the toad while spraying, but fine to do so if the toad is out while you spray.
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
October 20th, 2009 at 2:01 pm
Hi again Frank,
The toad seems to love crickets, but I am trying to get some variety into his diet. I don’t know of any bait shops in my area, but there is a pet store that advertises it carries night crawlers. Would that be appropriate for the toad?
Thanks much,
Mary
October 20th, 2009 at 4:06 pm
Hello Mary, Frank Indiviglio here.
Nightcrawlers might be too large, but check if you have a chance as they vary… a single worm can be broken into smaller pieces, if you don’t mind doing that.
One way to improve the nutritional value of the crickets (in addition to powdering them with supplements) is to feed them a healthful diet for a day or 2 before offering them to the toad. Please see my article on Cricket diets for further info.
A mealworm colony can also be set up to provide newly molted grubs and beetles…please see Making the Most of the Mealworm.
Canned insects are another option…toads usually take readily to tong-feeding. Silkworms are just the right size…please see Feeding Canned Insects to Amphibians for details.
Ask your store when the waxworms arrive…they will be in better condition at that time.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
October 21st, 2009 at 9:28 am
Hi again Frank _ thanks for your advice on feeding. I will definitely read those articles. I haven’t yet seen the night crawlers because that store is only open until 6 p.m. on weekdays, but the manager said they are European night crawlers, making them smaller and a good size for the toad, he says. I will check them out on Saturday — what would be a good length to feed?
In the meantime, the toad seems to have a good appetite — he ate two crickets last night. I did note, however, that while the coconut fiber doesn’t coat the crickets, he does get a bit in his mouth when he goes after the crickets with his tongue, and he doesn’t seem to like it. I plan to remove the coconut fiber when I clean the cage over the weekend and was wondering if the fir and sphagnum peat moss I bought would work? I can return the bag if not. I have
the sphagnum moss as well, but thought it would be good to lay down something more soil-like in some spots because the crickets would be hard to see in all that moss and this toad is really an opportunist when it comes to catching them. He doesn’t like to move about in search of them!
(One last thing _ last night one cricket was standing near the terrarium glass and the toad hit his tongue against the glass a few times. Can that be harmful to his tongue? I assume it’s because he doesn’t realize the glass is there because he can’t see it?)
Again thanks. If the weather continues to be so nice, maybe I can find some earthworms in the yard this weekend! I wonder if the toad would have left that pot on his own in search of worms if I hadn’t brought him in, now that it’s supposed to reach almost 70 degrees today. Oh well.
Best,
Mary
October 21st, 2009 at 2:52 pm
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Assuming the toad is an adult, it could handle a worm of 2-4 inches.
They deal with soil in the wild, and often in terrariums, moss is just a bit safer, just in case. You can leave a clear spot when feeding, but the toad will catch them either way. Its metabolism is fairly slow now, even though it is at room temperature, and so it will not feed as vigorously as it will once spring arrives.
Their tongues are very tough…in the wild toads take stag beetles, millipedes and all sorts of invertebrates that would seem hard to handle.
A toad might move about on a warm day, but don’t worry about food intake and all – in the wild, it would not likely be stimulated to feed by a short period of warm weather.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
October 24th, 2009 at 8:07 pm
Frank – great information, thanks!
I have an American Toad that we found in my sump pit – we have had two American Toads winter in my basement for the last 4 years (1 for 3 years, then 1 last year). They hibernate under my dryer!
This year proved to be no different, except we are going through major construction and I was concerned about his welfare with all the work. Plus, we actually have doors without escape routes now
. So I brought him in and he is currently in a 10gal tank with paper towels (I want to make sure he is pooping ok before I change the substrate), he has a dish of water and a dish of roaches. These are dubia roaches I use for feeder insects for all my reptile/amphibians (not the house roaches people normally think of).
My questions are about burrowing and brumation. I was planning on using a mixture of eco-earth(coco-fiber product) and organic soil so he can burrow – I feel more comfortable with that then moss, since that would be closer to what he would find in my area. Do I need to keep him in a cooler area – or just not add heat/light? Do they NEED to go into a brumation period? Is it better to just put him back out and hope for the best?
With feeding the dubia roaches – the roaches can’t climb out of the bowl, so I don’t have to worry about him eating dirt while catching his dinner. And I guess I need to supplement his food with calcium (with or without D3)? He has already eaten a few roaches and has been soaking.
I’ve had a couple people tell me to just put him back outside – but again I’m worried about the construction.
If I winter him inside, I can’t put him back outside in the summer can I? I’d be afraid he wouldn’t be able to find food after spending the winter having dinner handed to him. And if I keep him – what size tank should I get him? I know the 10 gal is too small, it just happens to be the only size I had left!
Sorry for all the questions — thanks for your informative blog, and your assistance with my questions!
stephanie
October 25th, 2009 at 11:13 am
Hello Stephanie, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog and the kind words…glad you find the articles useful.
It is as you suggest a bit late to release the toad, as they are usually settled in or at least near their hibernation sites by now.
Coco-soil can work, I’m just concerned about other foods – crickets and such, that might be used; the coco fiber is quite fine, and sticks easily to insects; toads deal with this in the wild, but it doesn’t always work as well at home. Sphagnum is safe, and toads take very well to it – burrow below or they will use a small cave. Easy to clean as well, just rinse or replace once weekly.
Dubia roaches are an excellent as a basis of the diet, but add in some crickets, newly molted mealworms, mealworm beetles and/or waxworms on occasion
Room temperatures are fine…they will eat even in low 60’s; some amphibians keep a brumation cycle even if kept warm, but toads usually remain active; As regards actually cooling the animal down, it’s hard to hit just the right temperature; one season of year-round activity will do no harm.
You can release the toad in the spring – they use the same territories for years and it will re-adjust right away; it’s ability to catch food will not be impacted by the little “vacation” you are providing.
A 15-20 gallon tank would be fine.
Powder every other meal or so with a vitamin/mineral supplement (with D3) such as Reptivite.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
October 26th, 2009 at 10:55 am
Hi there Frank _
Just wanted to give you a quick update on the toad, who is adjusting nicely. I was able to remove all the coconut fiber mulch over the weekend and replace with sphaghum moss only _ what a great idea! I put in a few more flat stones as well, because the toad has plopped himself onto the one stone that was already in the tank. So he has various “tables” to feed from, ie these stones.
As soon as I put in crickets, he went right after them on the moss as though it were grass _ and got no coconut fiber dust on his tongue, which he definitely did not like. So it’s actually quite a natural environment for him. Thanks so much for suggesting it!
I also was able to find a good source of wax worms — nice and white, wiggly and juicy. So he ate five crickets on both Saturday and Sunday, as well as four or five was worms both days. This little fella has a good appetite! He probably would have eaten more if I had offered it. Is there ever a danger of overfeeding?
I do have a question about the calcium supplement — I’ve dusted once a week at this point. (The instructions say 1-2 times a week.) Meaning, on Saturday he ate five supplement-dusted crickets. He definitely will eat them, though he doesn’t like them as much as the “plain” ones. So here’s my other question: some of the powdery supplement got onto his flat stone and I remembered what you said about toads taking in moisture through their skins. Therefore I wasn’t sure whether I should spray that stone — would it be good for him to take in supplement that way, through moisture, or not? Is it OK if the dry powder remains on the stone he spends all his time sitting on?
That’s it, except to add that I was looking for earthworms as I raked leaves in the yard yesterday after the rain the day before, but none appeared. Then this morning, as I was outside with the dogs, voila, a worm was right outside my door. So I brought it in — it was about four inches long — and dropped it into the tank. The toad perked right up and tried to catch it with his tongue, but it seemed to be too long. So I cut it in half as you had suggested, and he immediately ate one wiggling half. He delayed with other until it stopped moving, so I eventually removed it. Bottom line — wax worms seem to be the perfect size; night crawlers (there’s a pet store that carries them) may be too long for him to handle.
This toad smart — he has learned to expect something yummy when I approach his tank — he perks right up in anticipation. I am offering live food with tongs, to get him used to accepting food that way, and he goes right for it, as long as it moves. We’ll see if he might eventually accept canned foods this way in the future. The only things I’ve found so far are grasshoppers and crickets (which I can easily find live). What else is out there?
Thanks as always — this blog is the greatest!
Mary
October 26th, 2009 at 12:33 pm
Hello Mary, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the update and kind words.
I’m glad the moss has worked out for you…most amphibians don’t see it in nature, but it’s ideal for all types.
An adult toad really only needs about 6-8 insects each week; they’ve evolved to eat as much as possible when food is available…in captivity they will always appear hungry. You can spread the meals out over 7 days, or skip days if you prefer. A bit more wouldn’t hurt, however…once released nature will take over. Waxworms are high in fat and chitin, use only 2-3 every 7-10 days.
Use vitamin/mineral supplements 2x weekly. Probably best to wash powder from the rocks…no info either way available, just something I’ve always done.
Earthworms are ideal and can be used whenever available, even as a staple food.
Canned silkworms are a good size and offer nutrients that may be missing from other insects. Try snails as well…toads take small snails and slugs in the wild.
As you’ve noticed, toads are among the most responsive of all amphibians, and well suited to captivity. You might an article I wrote on Southern Toad Learning Abilities.Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
October 26th, 2009 at 6:56 pm
Frank -
Thanks for your assistance, much appreciated. He is settling in, eating and soaking. Before I do anything as far as substrate I want to make sure he goes potty.
Considering were I found him and being wild caught, I want to make sure I don’t need to take him in for a fecal check for parasites. I have not noticed any poop, is this normal for it to take a few days. He has been eating everyday. I haven’t noticed anything funny in his water when I change it and since he is only on paper towels I would imagine I should see some signs…
When feeding – he has taken fine to eating out of a dish (the dubia roaches and even mealworms or wax worms – will all stay contained in a glass dish). I worry about him accidentally eating the moss or coco/earth when going for food. This is the main reason I switched from feeding crickets to any of my critters. (plus if left in the tank, crickets may nibble at the toes of the critters if they are hungry) Is the moss safer than coco/earth if he eats it, accidentally? I always thought the stringy stuff was more dangerous if they ingested it.
Since I haven’t put anything in there yet, I’m open to whatever will make him happier and safer. We have already grown attached to him —
Thanks again — its nice to be able to find helpful and knowledgeable people when you need them.
October 26th, 2009 at 7:33 pm
Hello Stephanie, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the kind words.
I’ve never known otherwise healthy toads to have trouble defecating…its metabolism may be a bit slow due to temperatures or the fact that it was collected late in the season. It is sometimes difficult to see fecal matter if in water, but you will likely notice something. Hold off on food for a few days until some feces pass.
Sphagnum would seem problematical, but it works very well long term with toads – not often ingested in large strings that would cause a problem. You can leave the toad on paper towels if you prefer – they do fine if given an artificial cave or other shelter – only spadefood toads are stressed if unable to burrow.
The toad will have some sort of parasites but in my experience most are self-limiting in that they need a second host, often a snail, in order to complete the life cycle. Those that directly re-infect toads are rarely a problem if the terrarium is kept clean. Medicating amphibians is quite tricky, and often does more harm than good unless a real problem is noticed. I’ve had a number of toads of several species live into their teens and, with marine toads, their 20’s, without a fecal ever being run. The fact that they adjust so well to captivity may be a factor – stress knocks out the immune system and leaves animals of all types (us included!) open to attack by otherwise rather benign microorganisms.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
October 26th, 2009 at 7:46 pm
Ok, thanks again, Frank!
I’ll keep him off food for a few days and watch for defecating. I want to put him in substrate so he can burrow, I just want to make sure he is otherwise ok first.
I’m pretty sure I have the sphagnum moss as well – so he will get some artificial cover in the tank with just paper towels on the bottom until he potty’s for me. Then he gets a nice comfy set up.
I was only planning on doing a fecal if he didn’t defecate – if he is impacted because of something he came across down in the sump pit, he’ll get a vet visit. But if he potty’s, then I’m usually comfortable. Just not being familiar with the American Toad care, I was worried. I’ll give it some more time, and keep you updated.
Thanks again — especially for such a quick response!
Stephanie
October 26th, 2009 at 9:17 pm
Hello Stephanie, Frank Indiviglio here.
Sounds like one lucky toad…you’re doing all that you can. I’m sure it will be fine; they almost always go off feed if there’s an impaction/blockage.
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
October 29th, 2009 at 9:09 am
Hi Frank,
I’ve taken your advice and ordered some canned goodies for the toad –caterpillars, grasshoppers and snails — as well as plastic feeding tongs and cricket supplement to bulk up those crickets before I feed them to the little guy. I would love some advice about feeding the canned stuff. I plan to start using the plastic tongs with live food so he associates them with feeding. (He already does that with the metal tongs I use.) What should I do, though, when I introduce the non-moving food to get him interested enough to flick his tongue at it?
Also, with the cricket feed, should I just sprinkle some in the jar with the crickets? (I already keep potato chunks in there.)
Thanks much and take care,
Mary
October 29th, 2009 at 12:36 pm
Hello Mary, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the feedback.
Feed the crickets as much as they will consume (they usually eat quite a bit), for 1-2 days if possible. Potato, orange etc. will supply moisture and nutrients also, just watch for mold, which kills the crickets rather quickly. If this becomes a problem, you can switch to Cricket Drink Supplements, which also provide some nutrition.
Good idea to habituate the toad with live food…just wiggle the canned insects slightly to attract its attention. You’ll need to break the grasshoppers into smaller pieces, and discard the legs.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
October 30th, 2009 at 1:49 pm
Thanks much Frank,
So I just sprinkle the cricket feed you recommended into the jar and add a piece of potato, carrot, etc. for moisture, right? Then let the crickets feed for a few days.
I’ve noticed the toad now spends much of the night soaking in his pond, then comes out when I turn the light on above his terrarium in the morning. Is that usual behavior for a toad? I never see him sleeping — I’m not there watching all the time, of course, but what is the usual sleep-wake behavior for a toad?
Take care and thanks as always for all your helpful info,
Mary
October 30th, 2009 at 7:08 pm
Hello Mary, Frank Indiviglio here.
Yes, just let the crickets eat as much as they want…they’re quite noisy, and call day and nite (and it is not the “musical” tone of our native field crickets!). Give then some empty bathroom tissue rolls or similar to hide in and climb on; best to use a bare-bottomed plastic terrarium (ventilation is important) or cricket keeper, clean with hot water in a sink not used for food prep. when empty.
The few studies that have been done on amphibian sleep indicate that it is a very different process than in most mammals. Various processes slow down, but they are always more or less alert. In the wild, toads hide by day and likely sleep at then. Captives are invariably active day and night – I’m a bad sleeper myself, but still do not understand how they do it! Leaving the water as you arrive may be in anticipation of a meal.
Happy Halloween… the whole toad-witch’s brew connection may have some basis in reality – their skin secretions are quite powerful, could very well cause fatalities if consumed!
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
November 3rd, 2009 at 11:53 am
Hi Frank _ Thanks as always for all the good advice!
Just a quick update and, as always, a question or two. The toad ate very well over the weekend — he had four small crickets (the very smallest size) dusted with the vitamins, as well as one mealworm also vitamin-dusted. Then on Sunday, I found a three-inch long earthworm while raking. He went right for it when I dropped it in the tank and sucked it in, like, I imagine, a snake does with his prey. He also had two soft-bodied slug-like creatures that look something like the snails on the picture on the can-of-snails I bought. I’m not sure what these are, but I found them in nature so hope that is OK. He sucked them right in too.
Which brings me to my other question: We have (unfortunately) every fall an infestation of crickets in the baseement. Not tons, but the occasional one or two each day. Years ago, I used to have an exterminator spray to get rid of them, but now I have dogs and I don’t want them exposed to that accidentally. I caught a couple of these (they aren’t that big, but look different from the kind you buy — a somewhat plumper body with a bit longer legs and a high jump.) I fed them to the toad, as well, and he went right for them. I know this is after the fact, but is it OK to feed them to the toad?
Lastly, it may be that he wasn’t hungry after such a sumptious weekend, but yesterday evening I put in a few of the tiny crickets that had been bulking up on the gut load all weekend, and they skittered away before he could catch them. They are very small and easily hidden in the sphaghum moss, but on the other had, he didn’t even try. I wonder if I should stick to the large 1/2 to 3/4 inch crickets, which he easily catches?
Thanks as always for your advice, it is truly appreciated!
Best,
Mary
November 3rd, 2009 at 2:08 pm
Hello Mary, Frank Indiviglio here.
Nice to hear the toad is doing well.
Slugs are fine; the crickets may be any of a few native “field crickets” or camel crickets, which have a noticeably humped back and long rear legs; all are good food items; the rear legs of large adults may be too big for the toad, but the crickets shed these as a defense mechanism if you pinch the “knee”.
½ to ¾ inch crickets are a good size, but give the toad a day or 2 between meals, especially if it shows no interest in food.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
November 3rd, 2009 at 7:22 pm
Hello again Frank,
Just giving an update. My toad has still not defecated. I gave him a few days without adding food, changing his water daily – and nothing.
After days of watching him sit and stare at the glass dish that his roaches ‘magically’ appear for him to eat, I couldn’t take it anymore and started feeding him again. He always eats what I give him – which is usually 4 baby roaches. He eats them within a few minutes of dropping them in, and then continues to stare at the bowl
It’s cute in a sad way!!
I am dusting every other feeding using calcium w/o D3 since the roaches are gutloaded – but I can’t remember if I need to use the calcium with the D3 for him or not (I have both).
His water color has been funky every few days, so maybe he is urinating(?) in it — but nothing I can tell to indicate defecation. Should I be worried? It’s been 11 days since I brought him in from the sump pit.
I’d love to add substrate and fun stuff to his tank so he doesn’t just sit there and stare at the glass feeding container — but I need to make sure he goes first! I know with some of my lizards we use a luke warm soak — would that help??
Thanks so much for your continued assistance!!!
Stephanie
November 3rd, 2009 at 8:52 pm
Hello Stephanie, Frank Indiviglio here.
Good news…The discoloration you’re seeing in the water indicates that the toad is defecating. They do not pass urine separetely (the liquid they release when grabbed is stored water, not urine), but rather a semi-solid mass of nitrogenous wastes. This breaks down rapidly in water. You may see a solid fecal mass at times, but usually only when the toad has consumed adult insects with thick exoskeletons and other indigestible parts (wing covers, ovipositors, etc.). Also, the toad would have stopped eating some time ago if a blockage was involved.
If, however, you do have an animal that is not passing feces in the future, please cease feeding as you will do far more harm than good by continuing. Most herps are amazing in their abilities to adjust their metabolisms to food supply – gharials I kept for years at the Bronx Zoo went off feed for 3 months each year but remained very active, as exhibit temperatures were high – yet lost barely any weight; recently its been shown that some snakes continue to grow despite prolonged fasts. An adult toad at room temperatures would be fine for a month or more without food.
You can use a supplement with D3.
I think all will be fine, but please write back if you have any other concerns.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
November 12th, 2009 at 10:29 am
Hey there Frank, It’s been awhile since I sent you an update! The toad seems to be doing well and has even moved (slowly) to the other side of his tank. He is defintely not the explorer type — seems very contented to sit in one place for hours. He does like to burrow down into the sphaghnum moss, basically sitting ton the bare glass with it all around him. There are places he could hide, but he’s not really doing that, just seems to like to burrow. The question I have is travel — over Thanksgiving, is it OK to leave him for 3-4 days, or would it be better to take him with us in a small tank? He’s never been handled or moved, so don’t know if that would be more stressful than staying put. And if he does stay put, what should we do in prep for that? Thanks as always! Mary
November 12th, 2009 at 1:42 pm
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Glad to hear that the toad is doing well.
Definitely better to leave the toad home. Just spray the moss heavily before you leave, and perhaps add an extra water bowl. No problem at all if the moss dries out, the toad will soak in the water bowls. Best not to leave any food in with the toad while you are away.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
November 16th, 2009 at 1:22 pm
Hi Frank,
Is there a reason a toad sometimes appears bloated? Our toad has appeared that way since yesterday. He had two 1/2-inch crickets on Saturday, and I caught him a four-inch earthworm on Sunday. He definitely appeared interested and threw his tongue at it a few times, but then gave up. Rather than let the worm disappear into the moss, I removed it and put it in a jar with some damp moss for “later.” I didn’t feed him at all on Sunday, and this morning he still looked a bit fat. I’m wondering if this is from soaking in water — it does seem to come and go in cycles — or if this is something to be concerned about or a reason to withhold food.
Thanks as always for taking the time to reply!
Take care,
Mary
November 17th, 2009 at 8:30 am
Hello Mary, Frank Indiviglio here.
I hope all is well.
Bloating can be a result of gas produced by a bacterial infection, but as it comes and goes, and the toad does not seem otherwise ill, I’m inclined to believe it’s just over-fed. Toads have evolved to eat as much as possible when food is available, due to the vagaries of catching food in the wild…this works well outdoors, but in captivity it usually results in obesity, blockages, etc.
Feed every 3rd day (M-TH-Sun), and skip 3-4 days on occasion. The toad will always “act” hungry, but don’t worry; they simply slow down their metabolisms to cope with reduced meals. Remember, its system may be thrown off, as internal controls are on a winter cycle, so err on the side of less food. If the toad stops feeding and appears ill, please let me know.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
November 17th, 2009 at 10:09 am
Thanks, Frank, for this advice.
I haven’t fed the toad since Saturday, so hopefully we can get him on a nice every other day feeding schedule now. When I feed today, I was planning to give him just one half-inch cricket. What is an appropriate size “meal” on the schedule you suggest? Also, you had said earthworms were a really good food item for toads. I still have that 4-inch worm, who’s still very much alive in the jar I put him in. Should I offer it to the toad again, and when? Or should I just release it and let it get on with its life outdoors? (The worm, not the toad, of course.)
Lastly, I still have quite a few healthy wax worms in the fridge, which the toad always seems to enjoy. They are the easiest food type to dust with the calcium/vitamin powder, but I know you said just three wax worms a week, which is what I’ve been sticking to. Are wax worms still OK, and is it OK to give him two at once?
Thanks for all your advice. He does look less fat today, so hopefully he’s just been gaining weight and needs to go on a diet!
Take care and best,
Mary
November 17th, 2009 at 11:59 am
Hello Mary, Frank Indiviglio here.
I would go with less frequent feeding, sorry if I wasn’t clear last time – M-TH-Sun –Wed; after a round like that, then skip 3-4 days and start over. Earthworms provide much more in the way of nutrients than crickets – after a 4 inch worm, skip 3-4 days. Stay away from waxworms for a few weeks, they are very high in chitin and fat (toss them outside for the birds, as they will probably die in the frig shortly).
Remember, the toad will always act hungry, but you will do more harm than good by overfeeding.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
November 18th, 2009 at 12:43 pm
Hi Frank,
Thanks as always for your quick response. I have not fed the toad since Saturday, making it now four days without feeding. I am a little concerned because he is acting a bit unusual — he has taken up a spot in a corner behind the long flower pot, which is still inside the terrarium. This is the only place where there is still coconut fiber substrate, because I couldn’t easily get it out from there and he never went there anyway. Everywhere else there is moss. I’m not around all the time, but it seems he is not soaking in his ponds or moving around at all. I don’t know if he is actually bloated, because he’s normally been a pretty fat little toad. And he is not one to move around much, just picking out a spot and staying there. So, I don’t know if this is behavior to be concerned about or not. I haven’t tried to feed him at all, so I don’t know if he would refuse or accept food. What would you suggest? Should I try offering something tonight and see if he takes it? If so, what would be best? — I have that earthworm, which is 4 inches and might be a lot for him to handle, as well as half-inch crickets. I know you said not to feed wax worms. Or should I just give him another day or two without feeding?
Again, thanks so much for your help. I am concerned that he might have an infection as you mentioned. What would be the symptoms, and how would he have contracted it?
Best as always,
Mary
November 18th, 2009 at 6:42 pm
Hello Mary, Frank Indiviglio here.
I would leave him for another day or 2 and then offer crickets. He may just be reacting to the season’s progression – his system has changed. Some wild caught toads stay active all winter, others slow down.
Amphibian medicine is still rather more an art than a science, even in zoos; in any event, it would be difficult to distinguish illness (lethargy, non-feeding) from normal winter behavior. We don’t know much about how toads contract infections – often the change from a wild to captive environment renders normally benign bacteria more serious, or parasites (that are always within wild animals) develop un naturally high populations. But chances are the toad has eaten enough for awhile and is fine.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio
November 19th, 2009 at 12:15 pm
Hi again Frank — and thanks again for all your help.
There is what I perceive, at least, to be a bit of good news about the toad. I prodded him yesterday to move from that spot in the corner behind the flower pot — just tapped his butt and he hopped away to what had been his previous favorite spot in the middle of the tank, dug under the moss. Then, around 2 a.m. I happened to check on him and he was perched on top of one of his hideaways. By morning, he had moved to the other side of the tank, near his previous corner but dug into the moss rather than the coconut fiber, which I consider an improvement.
He still hasn’t soaked in his ponds as far as I can see. I am spraying the tank more frequently as a result — basically once a day lightly. I still haven’t fed him and will offer a cricket or two on Friday or Saturday as you advised. Regarding that, I wonder if crickets can be a source of bacterial infection if they have been feeding on the gut load? I have four in two separate jars who have been feeding for about 10-11 days. There’s a potato slice in the jars, and the gutload has turned greenish, which I assume is mold? Should I just get rid of these crickets? I was thinking of buying some fresh ones when I do finally feed him again. But are these others a hazard and how can I keep them more safely? I’m not sure I want to get into breeding crickets, which is why these jars have worked well until now. (They’re plastic peanut butter jars with holes bored in the lids, in which I place about four crickets each, with the gutload and a potato slice.)
As for the toad’s demeanor, he does seem to perhaps be just slowing down his metabolism for winter as you say. His eyes are half open instead of bright and alert as before. He’s obviously moving around less, but he never was that active anyway. The room is kept at 69-70 degrees, which I think you said was a good temperature for American toads.
Thanks as always for your help.
Take care,
Mary
November 19th, 2009 at 2:53 pm
Hello Mary, Frank Indiviglio here.
I wouldn’t worry too much about his movements, or soaking. A once daily spray is fine and unless he is completely dormant, he’ll move to the water bowl if needed (they can locate water ¼ mile distant in the wild).
69-70 F is fine, he’s likely just slowing down.
The crickets are not likely a source of bacterial infection – those that cause problems are everywhere, and largely impossible to eliminate…concern arise when the immune system weakens.
“Feeder” crickets (in contrast to native species) do not do well in humid conditions, but do need to drink. Small, well-ventilated terrariums are ideal for keeping them, and allow one to stock up. Using water cubes does away with the need for potato, which sometimes molds quickly.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.