Amphibian and Reptile Emergencies – Prolapsed Cloaca
A prolapse of the cloaca (the organ into which the digestive and excretory systems empty, and which houses the penis) is a situation that most herp keepers face at one point or another. I have observed it most commonly in frogs, less so in salamanders and reptiles. In a prolapse, the cloaca protrudes through the anus, and is dragged about behind the animal. If untreated, the tissue dries out and becomes necrotic (basically, the tissue dies). A veterinarian may be able to remove the organ, but often the animal cannot be saved at this point.
A cloacal prolapse should be treated immediately upon discovery. A long-established and often effective measure that you can take is to place the afflicted animal in a shallow bath of sugar water. The amount of sugar is not very important – go with 1 tablespoon per 3 ounces of water if you prefer to measure. The sugar will draw fluids from the cloaca, allowing the animal to withdraw the organ. You can assist with a Vaseline-coated cotton swab.
If this does not help within 20 minutes, your pet should be taken to a veterinarian (a follow-up visit is a good idea even if you are successful). It is important that you then look at the conditions that may have led to the prolapse – dehydration, constipation, straining to expel eggs and trauma caused by scent marking (rubbing the cloaca along the substrate) – are most common. Of course, environmental conditions must be evaluated with each species’ biology in mind – conditions that are suitable for a White’s Treefrog may cause dehydration in a Budgett’s Frog, for example.
Please write in if you have encountered this condition among your pets, and I will try to help in finding the root of the problem. Thanks, until next time, Frank.
You can read an excellent article on other amphibian emergencies at the web site of the Arizona Exotic Animal Hospital:
http://www.azeah.com/Care-Sheets.asp?id=97
Until Next Time,
Frank
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about 2 years ago
My giant african bullfrog suffered from dehydration and constipation and since then (over a month long period) he has had two prolapses. The first was after a few vet visits and it was his first poo after being ill.
The second was also when he was going to the toliet and it was after he was given the all clear by the vet.
Both occured when he was in the bath (vets orders that he has one a day), could the fact that he is in water being causing this?
Also, he usually only has crickets as he refuses most other food but last two days he has had grasshoppers-could these be another possible cause of the prolapse?
Hope you can help, Rachel.
about 2 years ago
Hello Rachel, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog and sorry to hear about your difficulties.
It’s not uncommon for a prolapse to recur the first time the animal defecates. Was a stitch put in? Often a stitch and a long fast is an effective way of addressing a prolapse, but vets have varying opinions on this, and, unfortunately, there are no easy answers.
Even without stitches, I would fast the animal for as long as possible – if he is in good weight, fasts of 4-6 weeks or longer are possible. Temperatures in the low 70’s allow for longer fasts, but your vet will need to weigh the value of this against a possible reduced healing time at lower temperatures.
Being in water for a time is not a problem, and would help in defecating. Vets I’ve worked with often advised soft foods, such as earthworms, or even tube-fed liquid nutrients, for the first few meals after healing. I would stay away from crickets and grasshoppers for now, as both contain a good deal of indigestible material that must be passed by the frog (legs, wing covers, thicker parts of exoskeleton.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Please also feel free to write in with details concerning diet, temperature, terrarium set-up etc., as such factors may have a bearing on his condition.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 10 months ago
hi, we have a 1 year old ball python and she pooped and got aspen bedding in her cloaca. it got really swollen and did not go back in.. we soaked her in warm water and let her sit outside the terrerium for about 20 minutes and it eventually went down.
about 10 months ago
Hello Dianna and Dean, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for interesting post; Ball Pythons do not often have such problems, so your experience is most interesting; I’ll keep it on file for future reference.
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 10 months ago
Hi. I have a Nothwestern Tree-Frog that I believe prolapsed. He had a clear bubble and larger hole on his bottom. It dissapeared and only a tiny little pinkish-clear bubble remains. Now, there is a small, gell-like bubble on his stomach. How do I treat him, because the sugar-water didn’t work? And I can’t take him to the vet because he’s wild and I don’t want to disturb his peace.
about 10 months ago
Hello Kyra, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog. Unfortunately, you will need to bring the frog to a vet as the remaining bit of exposed tissue will soon become infected or necrotic; the other bubble you describe is a likely site for infection as well. Untreated infections are invariably fatal, and cannot be addressed without professional help. Please let me know if you need assistance in locating an experienced veterinarian.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 9 months ago
Hey Frank,
I have a magnificent green three frog that had a prolapsed cloaca last night. I took him to the vets and they put it back in. Im not sure what has caused it and I was wondering should I starve him like you suggested above for the giant african bullfrog? He is of good weight.
about 9 months ago
Hi Tarah,
Yes, best not to feed the frog for at 7-10 days, as the area should heal fully before feces are passed for first time. feed very small meals after that; best to avoid large meals entirely, in fact. If prolapse re-occurs, vet will likely need to stitch for a time.
Best, Frank
about 9 months ago
Hi Frank,
very informative blog thanks!
We have an adult axolotl, Ákka’ laid eggs about a month ago (all 680 of them!!!! and most still alive in another tank). All was good until a few days ago, we thought she was going to pass more eggs but instead her cloaca has protruded and is now really red and quite large.
Is it worth trying the sugar water treatment you suggest above? We are all hoping its not too late…..
thanks
Eddie and family
about 9 months ago
Hello Eddie, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog and the kind words.
Ordinarily I would say give it a try; however, the axolotl could very well be ready to lay another clutch. If she is unable to pass the eggs and has prolapsed for that reason, the treatment would not be effective. Unfortunately, a veterinarian is needed to diagnose and treat this (oxytosin injections can be used to help her expel the eggs). Please let me know if you need help in locating a vet with amphibian experience (it’s a small field…a “typical” vet in your area may also be able to refer you).
If temperatures have risen recently, try cooling the animal down in the meantime …float a bag of ice, move to cool room, etc).
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio
about 4 months ago
Frank,
We want to say thank you for your suggestions on this blog. We have 14 month old axolotl, (Toothless is its name) who sustained a cloacal prolapse 2 days ago and with the sugar water/Qtip manipulation we were able to reduce the prolapse. Toothless is looking good now 2 days later and has even eaten a couple of tubefex worms. We understand we probably not yet out of the woods but are appreciative to have found this website for your insight.
Thanks, Toothless, Jenny and Nate
about 4 months ago
Hello Jenny
Thanks for the kind words, much appreciated.
I’m happy to hear all went well…congrats, not always easy by any means. Although eating is a good sign, it would be best to withhold for at least 1 week. Passing wastes will put pressure on the surrounding tissue, and can cause another prolapse. A 7-10 day fast will do no harm at all.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 months ago
Frank,
I have a ball python that I got less than a month ago. I fee him last week and o had to leave for a few days due to my job in the army. When i came home its cloaca was out and swolen. I tried the sugar and warm water thing and it helped a little but it didn’t go back in and I had his tail soaking for about a half hour. He looked like it was helping at first but then he tightened on my arm and got like defensive so I had to put him back in his cage. Im broke so the vets probably won’t help. I love my snake and its got me worried what should I do?
,Dakoda
about 2 months ago
Hello Dakoda,
Thanks for your interest. Unfortunately, there’s nothing more that can be done w/o a vet. Prolapses are not common in snakes and are usually serious when they occur. May be related to an intestinal obstruction, eggs that cannot be passed – but it will need to be diagnosed and treated by a vet. Vets are sometimes more understanding, re payment, in emergency situations…perhaps a local reptile club can suggest such a person?
Sorry I could not provide an easier option, but there really are no alternatives.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 month ago
Hi Frank,
One make in particular would latch on for days at a time. Tonight when I was feeding them, I noticed she had what appeared to be a prolapsed cloaca. I soaked her in sugar water and got it back in, but now I am wondering if it was due to her overactive roommates and she was straining to lay eggs, or if there is something I am doing wrong.
I must say that your blog is so very helpful, and I hope you can help me. I am having a problem with one of my American toads…she is a female in a cage with 3 males, and let’s just say I know why they are nicknames horny toads.
They are kept in a 20L on cocofiber which I mist 1-2x a day. They have a plant, several hiding places and a heat lamp. I feed them mainly crickets, with earthworm and the occasional wax worm. They usually get fed every 3-4 days–but I do usually feed them in their cage (I used to take them out but not all of them ate when I did that, so I thought not taking them out would be less stressful?). Could it be the cocofiber? Or is there some glaring misstep in my husbandry that can be fixed.
I plan on watching her for the next few days to determine if she will be a survivor or not. I am hoping for yes, but…
Thanks in advance for the assistance, and the excellent website.
Cheers,
Chris
about 1 month ago
Hello Chris
Thanks for your interest and the kind words.
Some toads do fine on coco fiber, but it does tend to stick to food, and it may cause impactions, especially if there is an underlying issue (slight dehydration, etc.). I prefer sphagnum moss or dead leaves collected from a pesticide-free area.
Best not to house a female with males in spring; you can try afterwards. If temperatures dip in winter, she may develop eggs…they will only be able to successfully breed in a large pool/container of water. The prolapse may be from pressure exerted during amplexus, a intestinal blockage or her efforts in trying to pass eggs. Unfortunately, there is no way to be sure other than via radio-graph or a similar technique. Some females absorb un-laid eggs, but in other cases the eggs eventually spoil and a fatal infection – egg peritonitis – develops.
If the cloaca stays in for a week or so, you can gamble on the condition being unrelated to un-laid eggs. But the only way to be sure is to have her seen by an experienced vet. Please let me know if you need help in locating one in your area. For now, do not feed the toad for a week to 10 days.
Best also to feed more earthworms than crickets if possible; crickets that are fed should be half-grown, especially for the female; lots of indigestible parts in adults. Please see this article on diet and let me know if you have any questions concerning supplements, etc.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.