Amphibian and Reptile Emergencies – Prolapsed Cloaca

Hi Rudi,

Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your question.

I would say there’s a good chance parasites are involved, as it would be unusual for 20% of your frogs to be afflicted due to straining or other such causes. It may be that the particular organism is not present in high numbers, or is not particularly lethal, as older frogs are not affected.

I suggest you submit fecal samples (adults and froglets) for analysis; speak with your veterinarian also, as a cloacal wash or water sample might be useful as well. I have a list of experienced veterinarians…please let me know if you need a reference.

Good luck, please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio

Hello Terri,

Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.

The fact that the prolapse has not recurred is a good sign, and my compliments on your veterinary skills! Since the sugar had no effect, it’s likely that trauma (forcing a bowel movement perhaps) and not disease was the cause, although there really is no accurate way to be sure at this point.

The prolapsed tissue may remain inside and heal, but its very important that you do not feed the frog for 10 days or so…this will not be a problem if the animal has been feeding regularly up to this point (White’s are well adapted to food shortages/storage; even a large adult needs only 6 crickets or so a week to maintain weight). The first meal should be small and soft – a small earthworm, if available, or a cricket with the rear legs removed.

You should also spray the frog with water 1-2 x day, and keep the terrarium and water bowl extra clean to avoid the possibility of infection. If possible, it would be useful to set the animal up in a bare enclosure – wet paper towel substrate, PVC pipe or other easily cleaned material as a perch – so that it can be easily cleaned; bacteria and other pathogens that might normally be fairly benign can cause problems at times such as this.

If the prolapse recurs, you’ll need to bring the frog to a vet…a single, temporary stitch in the cloaca will likely be necessary. It’s important that you choose a doctor with amphibian experience, as there are a number of concerns – infection, trauma – when stitching frog skin. I may be able to provide a reference…please let me know if you might need that.

Please write back with some details concerning the frog’s environment – temperature, moisture/humidity levels, substrate – and diet, as each of these can have a bearing on the problem.

You’re off to a good start, good luck.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Paula, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.

If the entire prolapse did not remain inside the body on the first try, I suggest you have your vet look at the frog. It may need a stitch to hold the organ in place until it heals (usually 7-10 days).

Until then, keep the frog on clean, damp paper towels…its important to keep the tissue moist, so it’s better not to provide a perch or branch. Change the paper towels often, as infection is a real concern with exposed tissue. Do not feed the frog until cleared by your vet (a bowel movement at this point may worsen the condition).

Fractures are not common…unless a real trauma was involved, such makes me think that perhaps the frog needs more calcium in its diet, or a different form of calcium. You might question your vet about this…a blood test would be useful.

Please let me know some details about the frog…diet, supplements, age, temperature of terrarium etc; perhaps I can offer some further advice. I’d appreciate your letting me know how the situation resolves, as this will help in accessing similar problems in the future.

Good luck,

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Paula, Fran k Indiviglio here.

Glad to hear that the tissue has receded. I suggest you withhold food for at least 7 days, and stay with 1/2 grown crickets after that (smaller insects are always preferable in any event, less indigestible material).

Calcium deficiencies increase prolapse likeihood because, without proper calcium levels, the muscles often cannot contract with enough force to expel the feces, causing the animal to strain and expel the cloaca in the process. Calcium Guconate injections are often very useful…you may wish to bring that up with your vet. Tubefeeding soft foods (and calcium) is sometimes desirable..a plastic spoon is useful in opening the mouth, please write back if you need further details.

White’s treefrogs largely rely on dietary calcium sources, so the full spectrum light is likely not going to help. Be careful that the frog does not spend too much time near it, as corneal problems have been documented in a number of other treefrogs in similar situations.

Let the crickets feed for 48 hours or more before offering to your frog, and coat (or crush together ) their food with Rep-Cal or a similar product to increase the calcium content of the cricket’s diet. You might also add some variety to the diet (limit waxworms to every 1 days or so) …earthworms and sow bugs (isopods) are a good calcium source, as are gut-loaded roaches.
Canned grasshoppers and silkworms can also be offerred from tongs.

Good luck, please be in touch if you need any further information,
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio

Hello Stephanie, Frank Indiviglio here.

Thanks for your interest in our blog.

The condition is more commonly encountered in amphibians, but I have seen it in lizards and other reptiles as well. The treatment is as described for amphibians…veterinary assistance is best sought after emergency first aid has been given. Usually the prognosis is good, assuming the prolapse is repaired and any infection is treated promptly.

Good luck with your bearded dragon, and please be in touch if you need further information.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.

Typically, a prolapsed cloaca or hemipenes will protrude from the vent and be visible. However, there could very well be an internal injury to either animal, which is aggravated by copulation. Blood might also be associated with an infection within the male’s reproductive tract, although the amount released is usually not so much as you describe.

The only way to diagnose the problem would be via a radiograph or ultra-sound at a veterinarian’s office.

I suggest you separate the pair until the problem has been resolved, as repeated injuries will only worsen the condition.

Spur-thighed tortoises are often difficult to house in pairs. In the wild, females move off after breeding, but in captivity they are often harassed continually when kept with males. I can’t say that I have seen this lead to internal injuries, but it might be a possibility. A pair of 80 pounders that I kept could not co-exist even in a ½ acre outdoor zoo exhibit!

Please keep me posted…I have not run across this problem and am very interested to learn the diagnosis.

Good luck and best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Chris, Frank Indiviglio here.

Thanks for your interest in our blog and your concern for the injured frog. Your efforts are very admirable. You are taking all the right steps.

Unfortunately, if the prolapse did not shrink after the honey treatment, it may need to be manually replaced. This is best done by a veterinarian, or a wildlife rehabilitator or hobbyist who has had experience with the procedure. Before attempting this yourself, you might try contacting a rehabilitator – they usually have connections with local veterinarians who treat injured wildlife on a volunteer basis. The National Wildlife Rehabilitators Association maintains a state by state list.

You can also try contacting a local herpetological society…members may have had experience with this situation, or could refer you to a veterinarian. If you need help in locating one near you, please let me know in which state you are located and I’ll provide a link.

The Reptile Dept. of your local zoo or a nature canter may also be able to help.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Chris, Frank Indiviglio here.

Thanks for your follow-up note. Unfortunately, we know little about injuries in wild amphibians, as most do not survive long enough to be found and studied. I suspect that a prolapse in a wild frog would be a result of a disease and/or parasite problem, whereas diet and breeding concerns are more common in captive situations.

Construction could certainly stress the animal, but would not likely cause a prolapse. However, what appears to be a prolapse might actually be a trauma-related injury, i.e. if the frog were crushed by debris.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Chris, Frank Indiviglio here.

Sorry to hear the news but you did everything correctly and certainly showed a great deal of compassion. It is nice to know that people such as yourself are looking out for wildlife.

Amphibian medicine is barely out of its infancy – even in zoos, with well experienced veterinarians, the prognosis for most maladies is not very good. Hope some healthy frogs or toads come through your yard this season!

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Christopher, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.

The prolapse would appear as pink, moist tissue, but accumulated feces could make it difficult to distinguish. If the animal had been mating, it is probable that an everted hemipenes (male sexual organ) was involved – this would more likely be withdrawn back into the body, as seems to be the case with your pet, than would a prolapsed cloaca. Sometimes the hemipenes becomes cut or bruised during mating, especially if it is not withdrawn quickly or the female pulls away.

I suggest you split the pair to prevent further mating attempts and give the organ a chance to heal. If the hemipenes remains inside the body and an infection has not set in, it could very well heal without assistance. However, if the animal becomes lethargic or ceases feeding, an infection may be present and antibiotics would be required. If the problem was with the cloaca, and it prolapses again, you can try the technique described in this article. However, a veterinary visit would be your safest option.

Please be in touch if you need further information.

Good luck and best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello John, Frank Indiviglio here.

Thanks for your interest in our blog.

Unfortunately, once a prolapse occurs, the animal is often left vulnerable to relapse, even if the original cause has been addressed. This is especially true if a stitch was not put in to while the original injury healed (not always possible, especially with small frogs). Routine follow-up fecal tests would be useful, however, to rule out parasites.

Red-eyed treefrogs seem very sensitive to food size…I always feed them ¼ inch crickets, even though they can take larger prey. I would space your frog’s meals 3-4 days apart, and err on the side of too little as opposed to too much food (try 3 ¼” crickets per meal, for a total of only 6 per week, to start…they really do not need all that much food). Lab-raised houseflies make a good alternative diet, either to supplement or replace crickets. Cultures (including wingless strains) are available via inter net dealers or biological supply houses.

Red-eyed treefrogs favor soft, flying insects, and digest these well. You might consider collecting small midges, moths and the like – the Zoo Med Bug Napper Trap is useful in this regard. “Inchworms” and other small, smooth (but not hairy) caterpillars, when available, are also fine.

Good luck and please keep me posted,

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello John, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for the feedback. I apologize for the long delay in responding to you…an emergency surgery put me out of commission for a time.

I believe that there is a weakness left in the area, based on the fact that stitches were tried. Hopefully the longer healing time on this attempt will have a good effect.

Very interesting to hear that they would not take either flies or moths, as these are often favorites. I’d stay away from mealworms, even newly molted ones, and use very small wax worms (suspend in cups) only on occasion.

Small live silkworms are worth a try…a few dealers sell them via the net, complete with artificial food.

Good luck and please keep me posted on both issues if you have a chance.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Tiffany, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.

Adult tegus are a bit difficult to treat due to their size. If it is a small animal, you can soak as described in the article and then replace the substrate in its terrarium with damp paper towels. The animal may shred them etc., but it is important to keep soil and wood chips from adhering to the prolapsed area and to keep the organ moist. You can also mist the organ with water from time to time to keep it moist.

For a larger animal, its best to get help to restrain it while you spray or pour water over the prolapsed area to rid it of any accumulated bark, soil, etc. Try also to provide a wet paper towel substrate, and spray the area if possible.

Trying to nudge the prolapse back in as described in the article is tricky, especially with a vigorous lizard, but may be worth a try if you feel you’re able. In all cases be sure the animal is well-restrained so that you do not get bitten.

Putting the tegu into a dark location ASAP is also useful, as this may slow down its activity and prevent further injury.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks so much for your kind comment and the update.

If you have a male tegu, it may have been the hemipenes (male sexual organ) that you saw and not a prolapsed cloaca…however, you acted prudently in bringing the animal to a veterinarian. Male lizards and turtles sometimes evert the hemipenes for no apparent reason (well, no reason that is apparent to me, anyway!). They are usually able to withdraw the organ on their own, although sometimes a prolapse-like situation develops.

I look forward to receiving your observations, comments and questions in the future.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Jay, Frank Indiviglio here.

Thanks for your interest in our blog.

Unfortunately the sugar water treatment and gently replacing the tissue with a Vaseline or mineral oil coated swab are the only steps that can be taken without veterinary assistance. If the tissue does retract, do not feed the toad for 7-10 days, and thereafter offer very small meals to start.

Please write back if you need further information.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Stacey, Frank Indiviglio here.

Thanks for your interest in our blog.

Survival is certainly possible, but there are a great many variables and, unfortunately, there is no real way to predict what will happen. You are doing the best you can; taking the right measures.

I’m not sure what type of surgery he underwent, but usually if the cloaca is re-positioned within the body the standard procedure is too withhold food for a given amount of time (determined by the doctor on a case by case basis) and then to introduce small food items slowly. Often a stitch is put in to close the cloaca for a time. I would check with the second Vet re feeding; procedure could have changed, but all the Vets I have worked with in zoos have advised fasting.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.

Thanks for your interest in our blog.

Veterinarian fees vary widely, even within the same city…unfortunately I cannot provide an accurate estimate. In general, fees are similar to what would be charged to treat a bird or cat. Your veterinarian should be able to provide an estimate if you describe the symptoms.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Stacey, Frank Indiviglio here.

Thanks for the feedback and sorry to hear about your lizard.

Unfortunately, chameleons are quite problematical in captivity, even in zoos. It really does take quite a great deal of effort and space to keep them properly, and we know little of their medical problems. Certain medications are indeed hard on the kidneys, but it’s almost always an educated guess with chameleons, even for many well-experienced vets.

One thing to bear in mind – stress is often difficult to notice in reptiles, especially if the animal is already debilitated/sick. A chameleon that tolerates handling is likely too weak to exhibit a stressful reaction (escape maneuver, color change, biting) or may even be feigning death to escape notice (many chameleons drop from branches and lie motionless in the leaf litter when attacked in the wild. In all cases, it’s very important to understand our pets’ natural behaviors when evaluating their care in captivity. Of the thousands of chameleons of many species that have come under my care in zoos, I’ve not know any that took well to handling. I say this not to make you feel bad in any way, and certainly handling was not the cause of the prolapse, but just to provide some insight for next time. If you enjoy handling your pets, there are a number of reptiles that would make better choices for you than a chameleon. Please write back if you’d like some ideas.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Mandie, Frank Indiviglio here.

Thanks for your interest in our blog.

The opinion of the veterinarians with whom I worked at the Bronx Zoo was that soaking would work within the first day or so…if it did not, then surgery/re-insertion or other steps were taken. Your veterinarian may have another theory, and there may be good reasons for it, but in my experience soaking works rather quickly, or not at all. One risk involved with having the tissue exposed for protracted periods is the chance of bacterial or other infection.

If you feel you might want a second opinion, please write back and I’ll put you in touch with a reptile veterinarian referral list.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Adriana, Frank Indiviglio here.

Thanks for your interest in our blog.

It’s not common for snakes to have a prolapse…it would not likely be due to a large meal, as they are well-equipped to handle that and I’ve never seen or heard of such being reported. Hard to say what caused it, could a structural weakness, etc.

It would be best to give the injury plenty of time to heal…I suggest that you do not feed the snake for at approximately 3 weeks. There will be some strain on the area once the last meal is digested and passed, so watch the snake at that point – after that, some time without food will help in healing, and will not do the snake any harm.

Damp towels are good for a short time after the incident, but be sure the snake has a chance to dry out in a day or so. If not already available, a basking area of 30 C or so might be useful as well, the snake may seek warmth when healing.

I wish I was in Costa Rica…cold here in NY! I worked with green turtles on Tortuguero and miss it!

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Jessie, Frank Indiviglio here.

Sorry to hear about your frog. It’s best to wait at least 7-10 days before feeding, and then use a young cricket, half-grown or so (less indigestible legs/wings). Wait 3-4 days and then feed another, etc. A 2 week fast will not harm a White’s that had been feeding regularly; a bowel movement before the prolapse is healed could be dangerous or fatal.

Since the prolapse has been recurring, you might be better off taking the frog to an experienced vet (check first if the office can handle the matter)…a stitch in the cloaca may be necessary.

Force feeding, when needed, is best done with 2 people. A plastic spoon, inverted, or for small animals a cup piece of a plastic deli-cup, can be used to pry open the jaws. Enter at the lower jaw and exert pressure in and down. The spoon can be twisted or another used to keep the mouth open (fingers work too, but not with African bull or horned frogs!!). Just in case it comes up in the future, best not to use rice, as the frog’s digestive system cannot process this – it will either cause an impaction or pass out undigested (marine toads can digest some plant material, however). Soft bodied insects or canned monitor food would suffice.
I hope the frog recovers….Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio

Hello Friedrich, Frank Indiviglio here.

Thanks for your interest in our blog.

Unfortunately, there’s no way to tell how extensive the problem from an external look – if some tissue is showing and the moss has not passed by now, it is likely not going to do so. It may even extend up into the intestines…you’ll need to bring it to a Veterinarian experienced with amphibians…please let me know if you need a reference and I’ll do my best to find someone in your area. Do not use the sugar treatment at this point, as such could do more harm than good in this situation.

Sorry I could not be of more help, but this is not a problem that can likely be resolved at home.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello Jannell, Frank Indiviglio here.

Thanks for your interest in our blog.

Since the lizard did not hibernate during other winters, I’m afraid its condition may be due to an illness….if temperature etc. is the same as last winter, it’s not likely that it would try to hibernate this year. Also, if the backbone is showing, the animal is too thin to safely hibernate. I suggest that you have it seen by a veterinarian, to check for a medical problem or an intestinal blockage.

Good luck and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.