The Tentacled Snake, Erpeton tentaculatum – an ideal choice for those seeking an unusual pet serpent
Introduction
The snake world is full of species that “break the mold” – none more so than a Southeast Asian import that sometimes appears in the trade, the tentacled snake.
The care of this snake differs greatly from that of all others, and I’ll devote a full article to it shortly. For now, I’d like to introduce the species to those of you who may be looking for a new challenge.
The Tentacles
The tentacled snake is unique among snakes in its possession of 2 fleshy tentacles (adjacent to the nostrils), the function of which is still unknown. It has been suggested that they have a sensory function, detect water movement, lure prey or break up the outline of the head.
Unique Adaptations
This inactive snake resembles a water-logged root, an effect that is heightened by its color, rigid posture, habit of remaining anchored to sunken branches, and the covering of algae that grows on the scales. It rarely swims, waiting instead for fish to approach closely before striking.
Completely aquatic, this species lacks the broad ventral scales of terrestrial snakes and is helpless on land. When disturbed, it becomes rigid and immobile (in Thailand, it is known as the “Board-like Snake”). The nostrils can be sealed to exclude water, and it may remain submerged for 30 minutes before surfacing to breathe. Tentacled snakes are thought to aestivate by burrowing into the mud during droughts.
Tentacled snakes produce mild venom that is effective against the fishes and tadpoles upon which they feed. The venom has not been shown to be dangerous to humans - the two people I know of who have been bitten experienced mild swelling that disappeared within a few hours.
Unusual Relatives
The subfamily to which this species belongs, Homalopsinae, contains a number of aquatic snakes that frequent unique habitats and hunt in unusual ways. For example, the white-banded mangrove snake, Fordonia leucobalia, hunts crabs on tidal mud flats in Southeast Asia and northern Australia. It is quite effective at overcoming this unusual prey – utilizing constriction and crab-specific venom before finally tearing off the crab’s legs. It may even employ its oddly blunted teeth to help crush its victims’ hard shells – the only snake known to use teeth in such a fashion.
Please look for my future article on the captive care of this species. Until then, please write in with any questions or comments you may have. Thanks, Frank.
Further information on tentacled snake natural history, as well as a picture, is posted at:
http://eobasileus.blogspot.com/2008/02/utterly-outrageous-tentacled-snake.html
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December 28th, 2008 at 11:14 pm
A reptile specialty store in my area is selling tentacled snalkes. I don’t know too much about them outside of what I had read on the internet and in 1 book. I would like your opinion on them, I have experience with several snakes although nothing aquatic, but I have kept fish tanks for many years. I would not want to get them if I might be putting them at risk, thanks.
December 29th, 2008 at 12:03 am
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog and my compliments on seeking advice before buying this unusual snake.
Your fish and snake keeping experience should come in handy; they are not easy, but with care they can live long lives and may even reproduce. Several I cared for were received as adults and lived into their late teens.
Most problems with tentacled snakes arise in 3 ways:
1. Badly shipped specimens – they are often shipped wrapped in burlap, without water, and suffer skin abrasions. These will be apparent as cut or reddened areas. Avoid injured snakes, as skin problems in this species are harder to deal with than is true for terrestrial species.
2. Parasites. Most tentacled snakes in the trade are wild-caught and carry a number of internal parasites…the situation is made worse if they have been held in less-than ideal situations prior to their arrival at the store. Try to obtain captive bred animals. A fecal check by a veterinarian is a good idea in any event.
3. Skin fungus…this arises often among captive tentacled snakes, and is still quite puzzling. Some people recommend acid water, but in my experience such is not the whole answer. Keep an eye on your snakes and please write in if fungus appears (white-grey fuzzy patches)…I have tried a number of cures and can offer some advice.
Some other things to keep in mind:
Install the snakes in a large, well-planted aquarium supplied with numerous holdfasts in the form of driftwood and sturdy live plants. These snakes rarely swim and are stressed if unable to find a suitable attachment site.
Use very dim lighting (peace lilies will fare well under such) and a powerful filter. Outflow from the filter must be slow, however, as they do not abide fast currents. Well-established undergravel filters are ideal.
The water should be slightly acidic (app. 6.5) and soft if possible; weekly partial water changes are important.
Use a soft (i.e. clay-based) substrate.
Temperature should be kept at 76 F. An incandescent bulb should be used to create a warm area (85 F) at the water’s surface. Position wood and plants below this so that the snakes can bask (in water, at the surface). The wood and plants can also be used to prevent the bulb from illuminating the rest of the aquarium.
Feed a wide variety of live fish…they will not thrive on minnows alone; offer goldfish no more than once monthly. I suggest swordtails, mollies, guppies, platies and similar fish, as well as minnows and shiners. Tentacled snakes require more food than do most snakes … I have always fed them twice weekly (more often for growing animals).
Cover the aquarium well…use cage clamps and seal openings around filter tubes with duct tape (this is difficult…another reason I use undergravel filters with tentacled snakes).
Disturb them as little as possible, and do not handle (please note their bite produces a mild reaction in some people) as they stress easily. Keep their aquarium in a little-used room if possible, and do not turn on the aquarium light if the room is dark (use room light or a timer). A group I kept at the Bronx Zoo ceased breeding when their exhibit was re-located to an area near a frequently used door.
I hope that helps. Please be in touch if you decide to go forward, and I’ll suggest some useful products.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
January 18th, 2009 at 6:51 pm
Hello,
I wrote in the past concerning tentacled snakes and now have 2 set up in the way you have described. One looks at home, always in the same spot but the other swims about a lot which I gather is not normal. Also, I have live plants (not sure of type, Sword?) but with the low light level they are not doing well. Can you help me with some information (again!) thank-you.
January 18th, 2009 at 9:46 pm
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Congrats on starting out with tentacled snakes, I hope you do very well. The snake that is moving about has likely not found a secure place to anchor. I suggest adding more plants and/or driftwood. Try arranging it in various levels in the tank, as these snakes are pretty choosy. I’ve also noticed that they are quite individualistic in this regard – what suits one may be rejected by another.
Amazon swords and most other aquatic plants will prove difficult under dim lights, but dim is certainly the way to go, especially as the snakes are settling in. Peace lilies (a “land” plant sold at most garden supply stores, florists) grow very well in water and thrives in low light. Its leaf shafts are very sturdy and make great anchoring sites. Also, they grow extensive root systems when kept in water…the snakes will love to shelter in these. Pothos positioned just at or below the surface will also make a good resting area for the snakes…it is fairly tolerant of low light levels also.
You might try adding Blackwater Conditioner to the water. This will darken it a bit, and may help in making the snakes feel at home. Some people feel that humeric acid (which is an ingredient of the conditioner) is beneficial for tentacled snakes’ skin. We tried this at the Bronx Zoo when faced with a fungal outbreak in our colony…I can’t say that it made a great difference to snakes already afflicted, but certainly it can do no harm in your case.
Please let me know if you need anything further, and please keep me posted.
Good luck. Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.