Description

The yellowish-green to silvery-tan body is marked with an intricate pattern of speckles and lines.  The huge pectoral fins, reminiscent of those of marine flying fishes, lend an uncanny resemblance to a dead, floating leaf when viewed from above.  Long rays extending from the tail and the pelvic fin add to its remarkable camouflage.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Toniher

The African Butterfly Fish’s mouth is noticeably upturned, an adaptation for feeding on insects at and above the water’s surface.  Less noticeable is the mouth’s large size and the many teeth it bears; although it tops out at 5 ½ inches, this specialized predator can take quite sizable insects and fishes.

Utilizing its wing-like pectoral fins and unique musculature, the African Butterfly Fish can explode from the water’s surface to snatch low-flying dragonflies, moths and other insects, and to escape predators.  It does not, as far as we know, glide above the water as do marine Flying Fishes (please see photo).

This species is one of only a very few with eyes that can simultaneously scan both water and air for predators and prey.  Others include the Four-Eyed Fish and the Whirligig Beetle.

Classification

The African Butterfly Fish evolved long before most other fishes, and is one of the oldest species still surviving today.  In common with several other ancient species, its air bladder can absorb atmospheric oxygen. This unique creature is the sole member of its genus and family (Panthodiontidae).  Its closest living relative may be the Arowana.

Range and Habitat

The African Butterfly Fish lives in habitats that are difficult to survey, and its range is not well known.  It is endemic to western and central Africa, where it seems most common in the basins of the Congo and Niger Rivers.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Rossi101

The preferred habitat is still or slow-moving, heavily-vegetated water with overhanging shoreline trees.  It is most often found in swamps, creeks and river backwaters (please see photo).

Aquarium Habitat

This relatively inactive fish spends its entire life floating at the water’s surface, and is therefore best kept in shallow “long-style” aquariums.  Floating live or plastic plants and subdued lighting will provide the security it needs in order to thrive.

The water should be soft and slightly acidic (pH 6.4 – 6.8).  Temperatures of 77-84 F are fine; those at the Bronx Zoo thrived at 82-85 F.

The filter’s outflow should be gentle or diverted, as African Butterfly Fishes cannot abide strong currents.  The tank, including places where filter tubes and wires exit the aquarium, must be well-covered to ensure that these talented jumpers remain confined.

Companions

Although aggression is reported, I’ve had no problem with groups of 6-8 in a well-planted 55 gallon aquarium.  Surface cover (I used live Pothos plants) is important in providing sight barriers and cover when several are housed together.

African Butterfly Fishes have difficulty competing with active, surface feeding-fishes, and their long fin rays tempt fin-nippers.  Fishes up to one-half their size, or even larger, will be consumed.

I have successfully kept them with Elephant Nosed Fishes and Giant African Fan Shrimp, which makes for an interesting tank.  Please see the article linked below.

Feeding

African Butterfly Fishes are surface-feeding specialists and will not dive for food.  While some individuals will accept dry foods, they will not remain in top condition without live insects.  Crickets, newly molted (white) mealworms, roaches, wax worms, earthworms and other commercially bred invertebrates are readily accepted, as are guppies and minnows.  Insects that do not float should be offered via forceps.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by http://www.moc.noaa.gov/mt/las/photos2.htm

Wild caught moths, ants, crane flies, beetles, and the like will elicit a very enthusiastic feeding response.  The Zoo Med Bug Napper is an excellent flying insect trap that can be used to supplement the diets of all types of aquarium fishes.  Please see the article below for more information on collecting insects for your fishes.

Canned insects and frozen insects provide a convenient means of increasing dietary variety.

Breeding

Males may be distinguished by the indentation in the rear of the anal fin; individual rays in this area may appear to form a tube-like shape.

I’ve observed spontaneous spawning, but success is more likely if you allow the water level to drop several inches over a 2-3 week period while raising the temperature to 86 F.  Some success has been had with water depths of 5-6 inches, but it is not known if this is essential.  In the native habitat, the water’s pH likely becomes increasingly acidic during the dry season, so a slight drop in pH may help to bring your fishes into breeding condition.  After holding them in shallow water for several weeks, the tank should be topped off to its former level.

Females will deposit several hundred floating eggs over a period of several days.  The eggs, which gather about floating plants, should be removed lest they be consumed by the parents.  Incubation time is 3-4 days.

The tiny fry must be literally surrounded by live, floating invertebrates, as they will not chase their food.  Springtails – primitive insects that may be purchased or collected (please see this article ) – are the standard diet.  A colleague of mine also had some success using flightless fruit flies, and if I spawn this species in the future I plan to try mosquito larvae, hatchling mantids, and Daphnia

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook.   Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

West African Community Tank

Live Food: Collecting Insects

Post from: That Fish Blog


The Freshwater African Butterfly Fish – Care, Breeding, Behavior

The post The Freshwater African Butterfly Fish – Care, Breeding, Behavior appeared first on That Fish Blog.

Types of Pumps

Submersible Pumps are designed to operate completely submerged in your pond, and need a constant flow of water while running to keep them from overheating. Many submersible pond pumps include integrated pre-filters or filtration systems, and possibly pond fountain systems.  Submersible pond pumps are very easy to install, however they must be retrieved from the pond to perform maintenance. These pumps are easily concealed on the bottom of the pond, and they won’t disrupt your outdoor activities with unwanted noise or look visually unappealing against your natural display.  Debris handling waterfall pumps are designed for large ponds and for supplying water to vertical features including streams and waterfalls. Unique designs allow these pumps pump at high flow rates and to allow small debris to pass through without damaging internal parts.

External pond pumps are better for large pond installations and offer maximum performance when high flow rates and head pressure are required.  These in-line pumps may take a little more work to install, but generally require less routine maintenance.  In-line pumps are typically used with swimming pool type pressure filter systems, or when constructing large streams or waterfalls.

Applications

When you’re ready to choose your pond pump, there are two main points to consider: the size of your pond in gallons and the head height of any feature you may be constructing.  Many ponds feature some kind of stream or waterfall as a focal point and to provide oxygen and water movement to the pond.  Waterfalls can be very dramatic on any pond. A powerful pump will be necessary to carry water from the pond upwards to create the falls. Connecting several ponds together with rippling streams also makes for a stunning display, but may require a good deal of planning and powerful flow to get the desired effect.

You will want a pump with a minimum flow rate of at least half of the total volume of your pond, more if the pond has a waterfall or other feature included. For example, if your pond is 2000 gallons, you’ll need a pump with a flow rate of at least 1000 gph. It is recommended that you buy a larger pump than necessary, as you may choose to add other equipment or features in the future.

First, calculate the size of your pond using one of these formulas:  For round or elliptical features multiply length (ft) x width (ft) x average depth (ft) x 6.5. For rectangular or square ponds multiply length (ft) x width (ft) x average depth (ft) x 7 to get an estimate of volume in gallons. 

Next, consider the head pressure you’ll need to compensate for with the flow rate. Basically, you’ll need to find out how much pressure is necessary to direct the water vertically from the pump to where it comes out at the top of the falls. Head Pressure can be a little confusing, but this article helps to simplify the concept and keep you on track.  

Now that you have the specs you need, you can begin to look at individual brands and styles of pumps to see which will suit your project best. 

Popular Choices

There are hundreds of pumps on the market today, which can make the choice a little daunting. Our top sellers include Pond Mag Drives by Supreme Pondmaster, ProLine Hy-Drive Waterfall pumps, and Seahorse External Pumps.

Mag Drive Utility Pumps are versatile and powerful, perfect for most small and medium fountains, filters or waterfalls. Mag Drives can be used submerged or plumbed in-line for added flexibility. Each mag-drive includes a sponge prefilter to keep the pond pump from sucking in debris, but regular rinsing is a necessity.

Hy-Drive Waterfall Pumps pack a lot of power to tackle larger jobs. These powerhouse pumps feature special vortex propeller designs to move massive water volume. They can be used externally or submerged for versatile applications. Hy-drives also feature clog-resistant, screened enclosures to prevent debris from enterind and keep your pump running at peak efficiency even in ”dirty” ponds.

Seahorse Pumps are strictly external and perfect for the largest ponds. These pumps need to be hard wired, but they deliver excellent high-pressure pumping performance. These units are also ideal for operating with external pressurized pond filters like the Ultima II Series.

Good luck with your new and existing pond projects this season, please feel free to post any question in the comments section below.

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Choosing a Pond Pump for your Pond or Water Feature

The post Choosing a Pond Pump for your Pond or Water Feature appeared first on That Fish Blog.

Getting to the Root of the Problem

Algae blooms are generally the result of either too much sun exposure or too many nutrients available in the water for the algae to feed on. If your pond is exposed to full sun for the majority of the day or when it is strongest, alga take advantage. You can provide shade using floating and marginal plants which provide cover for fish and other pond inhabitants, as well as aiding in nutrient control. Desirable flora like floating lettuce, hyacinth and duckweed will compete for dissolved nutrients and provide the shade you need while also serving as a food source and shelter for fry that may be produced by koi and goldfish.

Nutrients can be a little trickier. It may require some investigation to determine the source. Nitrates and phosphates are the key nutrients to target when trying to control algae growth. These nutrients can be created in the pond as sludge, waste and debris break down, and some may be introduced in source water or through runoff from rainstorms. There are test kits available to monitor the levels of nitrates and phosphates, and regular testing is recommended. Adequate filtration and diligent maintenance can be key factors to keeping nutrients at bay. Remove leaves and other plant debris, fish waste, uneaten food and other organic matter that will break down and create food for nuisance algae. Add live submerged, marginal and floating plants to your pond decor that will use the remaining nutrients before algae takes over. If nutrients are being introduced to the pond from external sources, take steps to limit or eliminate the contamination. There are also water additives you can administer to help remove phosphates and other organics.

Treatment Options

If you want to explore the various types of algaecides and algae-fighting treatments available to find one that will suit your needs, there are several things you’ll need to know. Before you bother to shop, know the size of your pond so you’ll know how much of any given treatment you’ll need. What kind of algae are you fighting? Do you have livestock in your pond or do pets and other animals drink from the pond? Do you have ornamental plants in the pond that may be affected by the treatment you use?

Natural solutions including barley straw products or biological additives and fish safe water dyes may be the first options to explore. Natural compounds that materialize as the lignin in barley straw biodegrades act as oxidizers to combat algae. Barley pellets, extract and other variations work the same way, but faster, as the compounds are more readily available in these forms. Biological additives boost bacterial that help to digest muck in the pond, reducing nutrients that feed algae. Water dyes and tints block the sunlight and prevent algae from forming and taking over. These methods allow for continuous control, simply replenish the straw as it degrades and the dye as it fades to keep algae in check.

For larger problems including ponds already over whelmed with algae, free-floating algae blooms or algae on tough to reach or clean surfaces like rocks and equipment, stronger algaecides may be necessary. Algaecides for planted ponds are generally formulated with oxidizing ingredients that destroy algae on contact or chemical ingredients that break down cell walls of simple alga. These treatments are typically safe for fish, ornamental plants and other animals in and near the pond provided instructions are followed. Algaecides for non-planted ponds often contain copper as the active ingredient which has the potential not only to kill plants, but is also harmful to snails and other organisms in the pond. Pea soup water is the result of free-floating algae, and the best long term solution may be to invest in a UV Sterilizer. While the initial expense may seem like a lot, this problem can frequently recur and a sterilizer will likely become the best investment you make to keep your pond clear. As your pond water passes through the sterilizer, the UV rays destroy the single celled organisms exposed to it, including alga, parasites and other harmful critters.

Manual removal of as much algae as possible before treatment is highly recommended to allow algaecides to work more efficiently and to prevent mucking up the pond after treatment. Closely follow the manufacturer’s instructions to ensure proper dosage and to take any precautions in using chemical means to keep your livestock safe during and after treatment. Make sure you have adequate aeration and surface agitation to supply your fish with vital oxygen, especially important during the warmer months. CO2 build-up and the new absence of oxygen-producing algae can cause an instant drop in available dissolved oxygen, especially if you treat in the evening. Low oxygen levels may cause fish to become sluggish or listless, and you may see them gasp at the surface or congregate at a fountain head or waterfall where more oxygen is available. If ample aeration is not restored, your fish may not survive. It is best to treat early in the day when you are able to observe how your animals are responding and take steps if necessary to add more aeration should they show distress.

Remove as much of the dead algae and debris as possible when treatment is complete, so that it isn’t left to decay in the pond. Once treatment is finished, a partial water change/siphon is also recommended, with particular attention to the bottom of the pond to remove the debris that may settle there. Addition of a biological “sludge remover” or bacterial supplements will help to breakdown the remaining debris to prevent further water chemistry issues.

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Algae Control in Ponds and Water Gardens

The post Algae Control in Ponds and Water Gardens appeared first on That Fish Blog.

Unfortunately, freshwater shrimps are difficult for the average aquarist to procure. I was, therefore, pleased when Zoo Med began offering canned freshwater shrimp.  Although marketed as a reptile food, I have fed canned shrimp and find them to be some of the best foods for freshwater aquarium fish, showing great results.  But I’ve been remiss in spreading the word among my hobbyist friends…if you decide to give them a try, please post your thoughts below, thanks.

An Important Consideration                                                                         

Small, whole animals are used in Zoo Med’s canned freshwater shrimp product.  This is preferable to offering our fishes small pieces of food market marine shrimp, which are usually missing nutritionally valuable internal organs (note: food grade shrimp are fine to use on occasion).

Canned Freshwater Shrimp 

The species used in Zoo Med’s Can O’ Shrimp is the Oriental River Prawn (Macrobrachium nipponense), a freshwater shrimp that ranges from Myanmar through China, Korea, Japan and Taiwan.  It would seem a more natural food source for freshwater fishes than is ocean-dwelling krill.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by MillaTom

Canned shrimp are large enough to interest Oscars, Lungfish, Bluegill Sunfish and other sizeable aquarium denizens, yet crumble easily and so can be taken by tiny species as well.  I also offer them to a wide variety of freshwater invertebrates, including crayfish, snails and diving beetles; African Vampire Shrimp especially enjoy chowing down on their smaller cousins!

Plum and juicy, these shrimp are ideal for fishes that are reluctant to accept freeze-dried foods and pellets.  Live food specialists such as the Chain Pickerel, for example, will readily take “meaty” foods in place of live fishes.  Bluegill Sunfishes, Bichirs and others also tend to refuse dry foods as they mature, even though such may be eaten by youngsters.  Fishes that are bred for the pet trade, such as various Cichlids, usually accept pellets, but the enthusiastic responses to canned shrimp will leave no doubt as to their preference!

Canned Grasshoppers, Silkworms, Snails, Mealworms and Crickets 

Terrestrial invertebrates form a large part of the diets of many freshwater fishes, but they have been largely overlooked by hobbyists and public aquariums alike.  Fortunately, a number of species are now being marketed in canned form, for use with pet reptiles and amphibians.  I’ve experimented with all as fish food, and am pleased with the results.  Please see this article for further information. 

Perhaps the unique nutrients offered by these foods will turn out to be critical in keeping or breeding certain delicate freshwater fishes, especially those which feed largely on invertebrates in the wild.

Fishing Bait

For those of you who enjoy fish on the plate as well as in the tank, I’m happy to report that canned invertebrates also make great, easy-to-store fish bait.  I’ve found shrimp to be favored above all, at least here in the Northeastern USA, but all are worth trying.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook .   Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Keeping the African Vampire Shrimp

Freshwater Shrimp Care and Natural History

Post from: That Fish Blog


The Best Foods for Freshwater Aquarium Fish – Canned Freshwater Shrimp and Invertebrates

The post The Best Foods for Freshwater Aquarium Fish – Canned Freshwater Shrimp and Invertebrates appeared first on That Fish Blog.

Natural History

Seven archerfish species have been described. They range from India to Malaysia and Australia, ofrten in association with brackish water mangrove swamps, but most also enter freshwater and the ocean. Archers and other species that move between salt and fresh water for other than breeding purposes are known as amphidromous fishes. 

At least 1 species, the 5 inch-long Smallscale Archerfish (Toxotes microlepis), spends most of its time in the freshwater. The giant of the genus is the 16 inch-long Largescale or Spotted Archerfish (T. chatareus). Both occasionally appear in the pet trade, where they are often confused with the Banded Archerfish (please see below).

Squirting Water: How and Why?

The environments inhabited by archerfishes are home to an enormous number of insect-eating competitors. In response, archerfishes have evolved a most unique way to exploit a resource unavailable to other fishes.

Archerfishes spend most of their time scanning overhanging branches for insects. When one is sited the fish stops, “takes aim” and forcibly ejects a stream of water at its target. The fish rarely misses, and the dislodged insect falls into the water. The speed with which the archerfish reaches its prize – less than 50 milliseconds according to one study – must be seen to be believed. 

The archerfish accomplishes this amazing feat by extending its lower jaw and raising the tongue so that it presses against the roof of the mouth.  The bony plates that cover the gills, known as the opercula, are then closed.  This process pressurizes water held within the mouth and allows the archerfish to hit insects as far as 6-9 feet away.  The Banded Archerfishes under my care were accurate at 2-4 feet; unfortunately, I did not have a chance to test their maximum range.  

Just as fascinating as the actual water-shooting process is the fact that, when taking aim at its moving target, the archerfish must somehow allow for the distortion of light as it enters the water!  

Archerfishes are also very athletic jumpers, and often leap out of the water to snatch insects from branches…I assume there is a “leap or shoot” decision process, but I’ve not read of any related studies. 

Learning to Hunt: Interesting Observations

This technique is obviously quite complex, and recent studies have shown that young archerfishes may learn from others, and that their accuracy improves over time if they are able to observe successful hunters.  Researchers have even been able to train captives to be better “archers”!  Young fish school together, and there is evidence that many will shoot at a single insect in an attempt to improve their chances of obtaining a meal. 

The Banded Archerfish, Toxotes jaculatrix

Description

The Banded Archerfish is most commonly seen in the pet trade. It may reach 12 inches in length, but I’ve not seen individuals exceeding 7.5 inches.  

The deep, oblong body is silvery-white on the sides and bottom, and sometimes tinged with yellow.  The upper body is olive-green to brown in color, and four to six broad, dark, wedge-shaped bands extend down the sides. The large eyes are close set, allowing for an unusual (for fishes) degree of binocular vision, and the mouth is long and pointed. 

Range and Habitat

The Banded Archerfish occupies a huge range that extends from India to Indonesia, the Solomon Islands, Papua New Guinea and northern Australia.  It is most commonly found in mangrove swamps (please see photo).

Despite its wide distribution, the Banded Archerfish may face an uncertain future, as the mangrove swamps upon which it depends are among the earth’s most threatened habitats.

The Aquarium

It seems a shame to house these fascinating fishes in a situation that does not allow for the use of their unique abilities. They are, therefore, best kept in a “tall style” or very large aquarium that is a half filled with water, over which has been positioned branches and plants.

Archers are accomplished jumpers, so the aquarium should be well-covered.  Being quite active, they should be given as much room as possible.

Several individuals under my care reached 8-10 years of age; some may now be much older, but I’ve not had a chance to check with their current keepers.

Salinity

Banded Archerfishes will do well in typical brackish water aquariums at a specific gravity of 1.005.  Fluctuations in salinity (i.e. between 1.002 and 1.007) are well-tolerated and may even be beneficial. 

Temperature

Archerfishes thrive at temperatures of 76 – 85 F; I have found 82 F to be ideal.  

Companions

Although they get along well with each other and other similarly-sized brackish water fishes, Archers are aggressive feeders.  Therefore, pay particular attention to each individual at feeding time. 

I’ve successfully kept Banded Archerfishes with Mudskippers, Scats, Monos, Bumblebee Gobies, Hermit and Fiddler Crabs and various snails.

Feeding

Although they are insect specialists, Banded Archerfishes have expansive appetites and will readily consume all manner of flake, pelleted and frozen fish foods.  They do, however, relish live insects above all else, and will put on quite a show if crickets are released onto the branches overhanging their aquarium.  Archers will also benefit from occasional meals of wild-caught grasshoppers, moths, spiders, beetles and earthworms.

If live insects are not available, base the diet on frozen prawn, clams and other “meaty” foods.  Canned insects marketed for captive reptiles are also worth investigating.  Individuals maintained on flakes and pellets alone do not do as well as those provided a diet comprised of insects and frozen marine invertebrates.

Distinguishing the Species

The Largescale and Smallscale Archerfishes, which occasionally appear in the trade, are superficially similar to the Banded Archerfish.

The Largescale Archer has five dorsal spines as opposed to the Banded Archer’s four spines.  It is darker in color, spotted, and its bands are shorter than those of the Banded Archerfish. 

The bands of the Smallscale Archer do not extend to the dorsal fin, as do those of the Banded Archerfish. 

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook.  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Video: Archerfish Hunting Insects

Archerfish Natural History and Photos (all species)

Algae and Plants for Brackish Water Aquariums

Breeding Freshwater Archerfishes

Banded Archerfish image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by ChRumps
Mangrove Swamp image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Fanny Schertzer
Largescale Archerfish image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Esquilo

Post from: That Fish Blog


Archerfish Care – Incredible Brackish Water Insect Snipers

The post Archerfish Care – Incredible Brackish Water Insect Snipers appeared first on That Fish Blog.

This isn’t a new story, just a continuing saga conveying the sad consequences of accidental or intentional introduction of non-native species. The story is believed to have begun sometime in the 80′s with lionfish being sighted between Florida and the Caribbean. Within 15-20 years the population exploded and at this point any hope of stopping the invasion has all but fizzled.  No one will ever know how they were introduced or where to place the blame. Some believe careless aquarists are at fault, releasing the fish into waterways if they became to large or otherwise unable to be kept. One popular theory is that the fish made their way into the Atlantic after a coastal hurricane destroyed a home or homes with aquariums that contained the Indo-Pacific natives, which miraculously found their way safely into east coast waters. Others believe it’s possible that juvenile or larval lions hitched a ride in ship ballast waters as other species have before, finding themselves in a new world when the waters were pumped out. Regardless, lions are here and here to stay, with only we humans as their predators.

You may have heard of other invasive species like snakeheads, grass carp, or zebra mussels. While these all present horrific problems in areas they’ve established in, the case of the lionfish is somewhat unique. These fish are voracious predators, devouring their fill of juvenile fish and crustaceans. Would-be predators that are native to the Caribbean and surrounding waters are intimidated by these new arrivals. Unsure how to attack and eat the frilly fish, they generally give up and move on to reliable prey. Their spread is basically unimpeded, being in open water. They are not limited to a pond or lake, they are only restricted by water temps and food availability, and they’re proving to be more resilient than expected. Warm currents of the Gulf Stream have carried the alien fish as far south as Venezuela and as far north as Long Island, NY, where they are still sighted despite cold temps. The population has spread and established like wildfire, and they’re here to stay.

While I haven’t seen these fish in open water myself, it’s disturbing how the ethereal fish hover and congregate as seen in recent news videos. This particular video isn’t a story covering the lionfish invasion, but I was amazed at the numbers of the fish you could see in the footage, as they hunt on and around the fighter plane wreckage. Your eye may catch one as the frames pass, but once you see one you begin to notice that it’s never just one in the scene. You see another, then another, then another until quick counts bring double digit numbers of the silent hunters stalking the area. This scene plays out on countless other small reefs, rocky outcrops and even the open sandy seafloor.

So if they can’t be eradicated, what can be done? Despite the seemingly hopeless situation, some island nations have seen localized success in controlling these burgeoning populations encouraging open season on lions for spearfishers and anglers. Advocates also encourage locals and fishermen to dine on the fish. Popular restaurants sometimes serve their delicate, mild, flaky fillets as featured plates! You can even prepare them at home…sample recipes from The Lionfish Cookbook. Various organizations are continually working to track the population to determine if and how fast lionfish numbers are growing. This is not an easy task considering the geography, range and depth where they roam. Researchers are also trying to predict the lionfish’s future in the Atlantic and their long-term effects on the ecosystem.

Public education programs in the region are spreading the word, imploring everyone to do their part. Authorities ask the public to alert them to the presence of lionfish and report sightings. Efforts are also being made to make locals and tourists alike aware of the dangers presented by lionfish including safe handling and treatments if stung. Awareness is also being raised about invasive species (not a strange concept in Florida) and the importance of containing and handling non-native plants and animals responsibly to prevent future introductions, intentional or not.  There are calls for regulations to control the introduction non-native species, including marine fish, freshwater fish and reptiles that can easily become established in tropical regions. Some areas enforce a strict ban on the importation of live fish, but without widespread adaptations of such regulations species may disperse to these places once they are introduced into non-native waters, just as lions have spread.

We’ll continue to follow and update you on the lionfish invasion as it continues to unfold along the East Coast. If you have experiences to share involving lions, we’d love to see your comments.

Lionfish image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Nick Hobgood

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Dangerous Beauty – The Ongoing Threat of Invasive Lionfish Along the East Coast

The post Dangerous Beauty – The Ongoing Threat of Invasive Lionfish Along the East Coast appeared first on That Fish Blog.

About Gorgonians

More than 500 described species of Gorgonian are found tropical and subtropical oceans around the world. More species are found in the tropical Atlantic that in other regions. They usually grow in shallow waters, though there are some species that grow in depths of more than 1000 ft. Shallow water species tend to be more flexible and broad to withstand currents while deeper water types grow tall, thin, and more rigid. They may grow anchored to solid surfaces like rock or coral, or they may “root” in loose gravel or sediment.  Gorgonian colonies are supported by an internal, ridid central skeleton covered with softer tissue that connects each polyp to the next to form the colony. The structure a gorgonian colony creates varies between species from a simple whip-like form to complex net-like fans that can be several feet tall and wide.

Gorgonians provide a secure home to many other maring species including brittle stars, bryozoans and hydrozoans. Pygmy seahorses (Hippocampus bargibanti) cling to several specific species and have adapted to blend perfectly with the colonies with color and texture specic camouflage.  You may also find tiny species of crabs, shrimp, gobies, blennies, and other creatures have also adapted to thrive amongst the polyps and branches of Sea Fans.

Choosing a Gorgonian

It’s important to recognize a healthy gorgonian when you’re ready to put one in your tank. Carefully examine your choices, looking for any signs of damage to the skin. Have the person helping you look gently turn each specimen in the water, so you can get a full look, and take notice of any damage, missing tissue, or flaking or peeling of tissue when the specimen is moving. Smell the water in the holding tank. If there is a noticeable odor, avoid the tank, as it may be sign that one or more of the gorgonians is rotting. Look for one with a thick, sturdy, uncut stem or base, and at least a few extended polyps.

Gorgonian Care

Care of gorgonians will vary greatly according to the species you acquire, and you should take care to research the variety before purchase to ensure that you can provide what it needs to thrive.  That being said, most of the common species available in the trade have relatively simple needs.

When you place your new gorgonian in the tank, give it plenty of space where it can sway with the current, completely submerged and without touching other corals or surfaces. Be sure to orient your Sea Fan in good, strong, direct current to ensure they are exposed to plenty of food when it is added to the tank. The water flow will also provide the tissue with plenty of oxygen and keep the surface free of waste and debris. The specimen should be mounted upright and with plenty of light exposure.

Gorgonians are filter feeders. Each tiny polyp has eight tentacles used to catch phytoplankton and other tiny particles carried to them in the current. Many prefer to feed at night, so generally this is when you’ll see the polyps emerge. There are many commercial invertebrate food options available to offer gorgonians. You may also offer them tiny frozen foods like rotifers, cyclopeeze and baby brine shrimp. Administer a small amount of food to entice the polyps to open, then follow a short while later with a larger dose when the most of the polyps are extended.

Many Gorgonians are also photosynthetic, containing symbiotic algae in their polyps that provide a secondary energy source for the colony. Fro these species it is vital that strong light is provided. Photosynthetis species typically have brown or green polyps as opposed to those lacking pigmentation.  These species may grow rapidly when kept in ideal conditions, and periodic pruning may be required. See this article for detailed info on pruning and propogation.

Be aware before you purchase a gorgonian that many fish and inverts may see them as a new meal. Keep a watchful eye for crabs, snails, slugs and other predators that can quickly damage your fan. Gorgonians also play host to lots of other organisms, so don’t panic right away if you find tiny serpent stars, anemones or other creatures from your tank amongst the branches.

Gorgonian image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Nobgood
goby on Gorgonian image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Jenny (jennyhuang) from taipei

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Getting to Know Gorgonians

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US Darters: the Obama Fish and other “Politicos”

Nine new species of freshwater Darter were described from the southeastern USA this past year (Bulletin of the Alabama Museum of Natural History).  Five were named in honor of the environmental awareness exhibited by current and former politicians: Etheostoma obama, E. teddyroosevelt, E. gore, E. jimmycarter and E. Clinton.

The newly-christened species were formerly grouped together as E. stigmaeum, the Speckled Darter.  Each was found to be limited to single rivers, streams or drainages, and genetically distinct enough to warrant species status.  Although naming new species based on genetics alone is frowned upon by some, doing so often helps us to understand the life histories of endangered creatures, and may assist in obtaining funding for study and protection as well.

The Genitalia-Headed or Priapium Fish

Phallostethus cuulong hails from Vietnam’s Mekong Delta, an area that seems to shelter an unending supply of unexpected creatures. The small, white fish would seem destined to draw little attention in such a river – but for the fact that its sexual organs are located below the throat! 

The male organ, known as the priapium, enables this species to reproduce via internal fertilization.  But while most other fishes that rely upon internal fertilization give birth to live young (and locate their sexual organs more “reasonably”!), female Priapium Fish produce fertilized eggs.  Please see this article for photos.

Flabby Whalefish (Family Cetomimidae)

The fish christened with this unflattering name was collected at a depth of 1.7 miles off eastern New Zealand.  Among the Whalefish’s neighbors were 4 other new species given equally unique names – 3 Slickheads and a Rattail.

The Fairy Basslet is described in the recently published Reef Fishes of the East Indies.  Covering 2,500 species, this 3 volume work is a tremendous contribution to our knowledge of one of the world’s hotbeds of marine fish diversity.

Alor Clingfish, Aspasmichthys alorensis

Although a mere half inch in length, the Alor Clingfish survives the exceedingly strong currents of southeast Indonesia’s Alor Strait, its only known habitat.  In fact, it was discovered when currents forced Conservation International biologists, who were surveying the region, to take shelter beneath among some boulders. 

The Alor Clingfish is bright red in color, and marked with pure white stripes (please see photo in article below). The size and oddly-shaped snouts of the Clingfishes, and their habit of scuttling about on coral and rocks, leads many observers to confuse them with shrimp at first (and second!) glance.

Conservation Update: Orange Clownfish and US Damselfishes

The fame brought to the Orange Clownfish by the film Finding Nemo has been a mixed blessing. On the plus side, many children have become interested in protecting the film star’s real-life counterpart. However, Orange Clownfishes have also become much in demand as pets, and as all aquarists know, marine fish-keeping should not be entered into on impulse. Clownfishes and the closely-related damselfishes now account for approximately 40% of the trade in marine aquarium fishes. 

Spurred by greenhouse gas emissions, global warming and ocean acidification threaten a number of marine species and habitats.  Some evidence also indicates that the Orange Clownfish and the Black Axil Chromis may be threatened by over-collection for the pet trade. The Center for Biological Diversity is, therefore, seeking Endangered Species Act protection for the Orange Clownfish and the 7 Damselfish species that reside in US waters.  You can read the text of the petition, along with details concerning the threats faced by these fishes, here.

Many, many other new reptiles and amphibians have been described in recent years…please let me know your favorites by posting below.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook.  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Newly Described US Darters (illustrations, range info)

The Genitalia Headed Fish

New Reef Fishes

Alor Strait Clingfish (with photo)

Photos

Darter http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Etheostoma_stigmaeum.jpg

Clingfish http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Lepadogaster_candollii_04-02-06_DSCF8726.jpg

Whalefish http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Cetomimus_gillii.jpg

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2012’s New Fish Species – Obama Fish, “Head-Mater”, Flabby Whalefish…

The post 2012’s New Fish Species – Obama Fish, “Head-Mater”, Flabby Whalefish… appeared first on That Fish Blog.

Here are a few questions to ask yourself, to help you with the decision:

Is the light that you are looking for only going to be used on your current aquarium habitat, or are you planning on a more advanced aquarium in the future that may require a higher output light source? You may want to consider a stronger light than you need for your current livestock, as basic lighting may limit what you can keep in the tank down the line.  

With these future goals in mind, what kind of lighting should you look for? This is going to require a little research on your part, but the internet is a great resource for finding the information about the needs of the livestock you want to keep in your aquarium.  There is a great deal of information, and care requirements for all the livestock that we offer here at TFP, you can go directly to our livestock section.  More advanced aquariums. like those populated with live plants or marine corals, have high output and specific light spectrum requirements. 

The size of your aquarium will also factor in your lighting choice. Deeper aquariums require more intense lighting, as the water’s depth will limit light penetration.  A tank that is 30 inches deep will require a much more intense light than a tank that is 18 inches deep.

Once you have answered these questions, you will have a pretty good idea of what you need, and are ready to look at the options available.  To try and keep it simple, I will break the lighting systems up into four groups; basic, intermediate, high performance and accent lighting, based upon the light output levels of the lights.  Follow the links to each different type that we offer and you will find detailed information about the specific light fixtures.

Basic:  If you have decided that you are setting up a basic fish tank, probably freshwater, with nothing photosynthetic like live plants or corals, you’ll be looking for a simple lighting option.  If your tank is fairly small and not very deep (18”-20” max), a standard output fluorescent fixture, or low output LED fixture will work well.  These basic lights are available as stand-alone strips that can be used over a glass canopy, or as part of a complete aquarium hood.  Some good examples of basic aquarium lighting are the Perfecto Fluorescent Reflector Strip Lights, and the Marineland Single Bright and Double Bright LED lighting systems. If you have a deeper tank, you want a very brightly lit tank, or you may want to keep live plants or coral, you will want to move up to next level of lighting. 

Intermediate:  If you are setting up a larger or deeper aquarium (18”-24” deep), or you plan to have some live plants or corals in your aquarium, basic light is not going to get the job done. You will need to move to a more powerful light source, one that uses higher output bulbs, as well as special spectrum bulbs specifically to support the needs of live plants or marine life.  Many intermediate level lighting options include built-in timers or control systems, and may also include moonlights for nighttime viewing.  An excellent choice for you is a T5 HO Fluorescent light fixture, like the Coralife or AquaticLife T5 HO lights.  Higher output LED light fixtures like the Marineland Plant and Reef Capable LED systems, or the Ecoxotic Panorama LED fixtures are excellent choices for an upgraded light system, as well.  These better-than-basic light systems are where your options really start to increase, with the number and types of bulbs included in the fixtures.  Some manufacturers offer specialized models for freshwater and marine aquariums, that come with special purpose bulbs to support live plants or corals.  T5 HO fixtures are available with 2-8 bulbs each. The deeper your aquarium, or the higher the demand for light the species you keep, will determine what model is the best choice.

High Performance:  If you have decided to set up a very large or deep aquarium (24”+), a heavily planted tank, or full reef aquarium, your stock will have a high light demand.  You are going to need the most powerful lighting available for your tank to thrive.  For shallower tanks (<24”) that have live plants or live corals, multiple bulb T5 HO fixtures can still be a great option. You can also use higher output LED lighting for these tanks, like the AquaticLife 1.0W Expandable system, or the Maxpect Razor LED system.  For deeper tanks, you’ll want to move up to a Metal Halide light fixtures or reflectors, or to larger or multiple High Output LED fixtures like the Ecotech Marine Radion, the AquaticLife 3.0W Expert Series, or the Ecoxotic Cannon LED light systems.

Accent Lighting lets you have a little fun and make your tank truly unique.  Most accent lighting is supplied by LEDs, and is generally intended to be used in conjunction with your main lighting source, to add a little extra output, color or decorative effects.  Accent lighting is available in several forms, including moonlight modules, compact strip lights, or submersible strip lights.  Some new decorative LED accent lights are incorporated into air stones, bubble wands, and water pumps, capable of producing dramatic night time colored bubble effects.  Some examples of LED accent lights are the Current USA TruLumen Lunar LED system, the Marineland Accent LED system, and the LED bubble wand systems from Marina, Marineland, and Aqueon.

I hope that gave you a good idea of what is available for lighting your aquarium, and gives you some direction for choosing the best light for achieving your goal.

Waterplants image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Ghostsword

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Choosing New Aquarium Lighting for Your Tank

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Seahorses Need a Wide Variety of Small, Live Foods

The world’s 130+ seahorse species (Family Syngnathidae) are strict live food specialists. Brine shrimp, the most easily-obtained seahorse food, is suitable as a steady diet for only one, the Dwarf Seahorse, Hippocampus zosterae (please see this article). Most others avidly consume brine shrimp, but will not survive long without amphipods (scuds, side-swimmers), sand hoppers, tiny shrimp, Mysids and similar marine creatures.

In recent years, captive-bred Big-Bellied, Northern, Yellow, Long-Snouted and other seahorses have been induced to accept frozen foods. Several breeders are now offering seahorses that are already acclimated to such diets (live foods remain an important supplement). Please see this website and post comments below if you would like further information.

Seahorses Cannot be Kept with other Fishes

Seahorses do well in pairs and groups, but, with few exceptions, fare poorly when housed with other marine fishes. Being slow, deliberate feeders, seahorses are inevitably outcompeted at feeding time. And, as live foods are relished by most aquarium fishes, it is difficult to selectively feed seahorses in community tanks. Pipefishes and sticklebacks (both seahorse relatives), and certain gobies will cause few problems, but most others should be avoided.

With attention to detail, however, a good many invertebrates may be maintained in the seahorse aquarium. Included among these are Banded Coral Shrimps, small hermit and spider crabs, sea stars, brittle stars, urchins, most snails, and tube worms. Please post below if you would like detailed information.

Wild-Caught Seahorses should be Avoided

Despite recent CITES listings and other protections, millions of seahorses are collected annually for use in Chinese and South Asian medicinal practices, and for the curio and pet trades. Others are threatened by habitat loss or perish as “by-catch” in commercial fishing operations. 

Furthermore, wild-caught seahorses rarely adjust well to captive diets, and are often heavily parasitized. Please be sure to purchase only captive-bred seahorses.

Select Large or Dwarf Species

For most aquarists, seahorses on either end of the size spectrum are the best species with which to start. Larger species, such as the Atlantic Seahorse, Hippocampus erectus, and the Big-Bellied Seahorse, H. abdominalis, (please see articles below), will take a wider range of foods than most others.  This allows us to provide them with the varied diet that is essential to long life. The Atlantic Seahorse, a particularly aggressive hunter, even consumes fresh-water creatures such as Black Mollie fry, fairy shrimp and blackworms. It also may accept frozen clams and prawn, and thrives at normal room temperatures. 

The minute Dwarf Seahorse, H. zosterae, is the only species that fares well on a diet comprised solely of live brine shrimp.  Brine shrimp intended as seahorse food should be fed finely ground fish flakes, spirulina tablets and similar foods for several days prior to use (please post below for details).  Tiny marine invertebrates, easily collected via plankton net, should also be offered if possible.

Seahorses are Prone to an Unusual Malady

The seahorse keeper must understand marine water chemistry and be adept at diagnosing and treating fish diseases. However, even well-experienced aquarists are sometimes puzzled by an ailment unique to seahorses and their relatives – the accumulation of gas in the male’s pouch. 

Treatment involves dispelling the gas via the careful insertion of a glass pipette, followed by medication with Methylene Blue or a similar anti-fungal preparation.  Please see this article and post below if you need advice. 

What’s Next: Learning More

First inspired by my grandfather’s efforts to breed seahorses in the 1960’s, I’ve written a number of articles and a book about these fantastic creatures.  Husbandry difficulties and declining wild populations render it essential that we learn as much as we can about their habits and care.  Please see the following articles and be sure to post your questions, thoughts and experiences below. 

Dwarf Seahorse Care

Northern Seahorse Care

Big-Bellied Seahorse Care

Get Involved: Project Seahorse 

A New Pea-Sized Seahorse

Breaking Research on Seahorses and Seadragons

An Incredible Seahorse Journey

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook.  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Hippocampus hippocampus image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Hans Hillewaert
Hippocampus bargibanti image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Steve Childs

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Seahorses in the Aquarium – 5 Things You Should Know Before Purchasing

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