Archive for March, 2009
A Community Aquarium for Fishes, Shrimp and Frogs – West African Oddities – Part 3
Mar 30th
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Please see Parts I and II of this article for general information and for details concerning the care of elephant nosed and butterfly fishes.
Dwarf Clawed or African Dwarf Underwater Frog, Hymenochirus boettgeri, H. curtipes
This tiny (males to 1 inch, females to 1.4 inches) aquatic frog is a real pleasure to keep. It is perpetually on the prowl, sticking its pointed little head into every nook and cranny in its ceaseless search for food. A group so engaged is really quite comical to behold…they look like nothing so much as squadron of tiny, flattened divers!
Habitat and Habits
Dwarf clawed frogs move slowly about the aquarium bottom and among the plants, and save “free swimming” for trips to the surface for air. In deep aquariums, they do best when provided with “ladders” to the surface in the form of (preferably live) plants. They are at their best in heavily planted aquariums, and will utilize every square inch available to them.
Small size and bold demeanors render these frogs ideal observation subjects. It is quite easy to provide them with a habitat in which they will reveal to you nearly all of their natural behaviors, and captive reproduction is not uncommon. Dwarf clawed frogs are not favored aquarium animals in the USA, due largely to the fact that they are usually kept improperly. Typically housed in bare tanks with active fishes that out-compete them for food, they usually expire in short order.
Feeding Dwarf Clawed Frogs
In addition to dense cover, dwarf clawed frogs need a varied diet of small, live invertebrates. Blackworms can account for up to 75% of their food intake, supplemented whenever possible with live brine shrimp (brine shrimp alone are not an appropriate diet), whiteworms, bloodworms, mosquito larvae and similarly-sized aquatic organisms. Newborn guppies may be taken by particularly large individuals. I’ve had my best breeding results when I provided my frogs with occasional meals of pond-seined fairy shrimp and other tiny invertebrates.
I have not had much success in inducing dwarf clawed frogs to accept non-living food items, but others have reported good results with some individuals. I suggest that you feed them as described above, but experiment with Reptomin Select-A-Food (freeze dried and pelleted components), freeze-dried fish foods (mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms) and frozen mosquito larvae.
As dwarf clawed frogs feed largely by day and elephant nosed fishes by night, competition for live blackworms is rarely a problem.
A Unique Hunting Strategy
Dwarf clawed frogs use a suction-based feeding technique, unique among amphibians, to capture their prey. The tiny hunters lunge forward while extending the front limbs and opening the mouth, after which the body is recoiled. Like other members of the family Pipidae (African clawed frogs, Surinam toads), dwarf clawed frogs are tongue-less.
Hybrids and Feral Frogs
Only Hymenochirus boettgeri and, to lesser extend, H. curtipes, appear in the trade; there is some evidence of hybridization between the two. H. boettgeri has been introduced to Florida and is apparently well established.
An Important Distinction
It is important that you are able to distinguish this frog from young African clawed frogs (Xenopus laevis). The two are frequently housed together in pet stores….Xenopus grows quite large and will consume smaller frogs, fishes and shrimp.
In dwarf clawed frogs, the appendages of all 4 limbs (fingers and toes) are webbed; Xenopus possesses webbed feet only. Dwarf frogs are also more flattened in body form, and their heads are very narrow, nearly “pointed”.
Giant African Fan Shrimp, Atya gabonensis
This stoutly-built West African native is bound to become more popular as time goes on. Built more along the lines of a crayfish than a shrimp, yet completely benign toward tank-mates, it feeds by sweeping food into its mouth with feathery appendages. Fan shrimp are quite social in nature, with groups often sharing the same shelter even when others are available.
The Importance of Shelter
I have found African fan shrimp to be compatible with the other animals mentioned in this article, provided that they have access to secure shelters. They seem to be very much “home oriented”, and become quite stressed when their retreats are disturbed in any way.
Be sure to supply your shrimp with caves and other such hideaways that will not be disturbed by foraging elephant- nosed fishes (the other species pose no concerns), and do not move the shelters once they have been occupied. Small rock dens or Mopani wood shelters are ideal.
Please see my article on the Natural History and Care of African Fan Shrimp for husbandry details.
I was recently told of an unusually large (possibly 8 inch) fan shrimp that was residing in a local pet shop. I went to see the animal, only to find that it had expired and had been discarded. Please write in if you have observed fan shrimp larger than 5 inches or so – we have a great deal to learn about this animal…perhaps there is more than 1 species in the trade.
Further Reading
You can read more about the dwarf clawed frog and its relatives at http://research.amnh.org/herpetology/amphibia/names.php?taxon=&family=&subfamily=&genus=hymenochirus&commname=&authority=&year=&geo=0&dist=&comment=.
Please write in with your questions and comments. Thanks, until next time, Frank Indiviglio.
(No Ratings Yet)
Loading ...Essential Nutrients for the Planted Aquarium
Mar 27th
Essential Nutrients for the Planted Aquarium
Brandon here. Anyone who gardens or keeps houseplants knows that plants need a boost once in awhile to look their best and maintain lush, consistant, healthy growth. Aquarium plants are no exception, but it may be difficult to decide which supplement to use. Here is an overview of some of the components you may see in the supplements, and what they do to help you along in your aquatic gardening.
*In order of highest to lowest required concentration
Macronutrients
- Nitrogen: Used for formation of amino acids, protein, DNA, and various other functions such as osmoregulation and nutrient uptake. Deficiencies result in stunted growth and cell death.
- Potassium: Important in breaking down carbohydrates for protein production.
- Used in production of seeds and fruits.
- Important for overall plant growth.
- Generally not harmful if overdosed
- Calcium: Used as a signaling mechanism for environmental stress.
- Excess calcium interferes with phosphorous and can lead to health problems.
- Magnesium: The central molecule in chlorophyll. Also used for enzyme activation.
- Phosphorous: Used in DNA and RNA to hold base pairs. Also found in Adenosine Triphosphate (ATP) and ADP, which is used for energy storage and transport. Nitrogen and phosphorous are the two most important elements found in plants.
- Deficiencies result in stunted growth and cell death.
- Sulfur: Used to create certain amino acids.
- Deficiencies usually indicated by decreased or stunted growth and yellowing of entire plant. Low levels of sulfur are required for plants health.
Micronutrients
- Chlorine: Used for chemical signals between cells. Also used in opening and closing of stomatal guard cells (important in terrestrial plants).
- Iron: Used as an electron acceptor and donator in photosynthesis. Also used in the creation of new chlorophyll molecules.
- Iron deficiencies are indicated by yellowing leaves. The plant cannot function without iron and the processes it is involved in, and can die from stress.
- An excess of iron can result in a build-up of free radicals within the plants tissues, which damages cells and DNA and can also lead to plant death. In the aquarium an excess of iron can be readily absorbed by algae which can result in algae blooms.
- Boron: Enzyme activator used for making starch, which is used in the production of cellulose.
- Used for sugar transport to meristems (the parts of the plants where new growth forms).
- Manganese: Enzyme activator. Needed for the production of chlorophyll.
- Zinc: Enzyme activator. Required for leaf formation.
- Deficiencies result in what is called “little leaf” syndrome.
- An excess of zinc interferes with metabolic function and may result in plant death.
- Copper: Enzyme activator.
- Inhibits shoot and root growth when overdosed. Also interferes with electron transport during plant metabolism. Can result in plant death.
- Molybdenum: Important in the reduction of nitrates, which provides nitrogen for the creation of proteins.
- Nickel: Enzyme activator. Used in breaking down urea.
- Inhibits shoot and root growth when overdosed. Can result in plant death.
Other non-mineral elements required for plant growth:
- Carbon: usually acquired from carbon dioxide through photosynthesis. Found in sugars, carbohydrates, starch, and every part of the plant.
- Oxygen: acquired through photosynthesis, respiration, and from water. Also found in sugars, carbohydrates, starch, and every cell of the plant.
- Hydrogen: acquired through photosynthesis, respiration, and water. Again, essential compound in the makeup of sugar, starch, carbohydrates, and cellular structures.
Carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen are the most prominent elements found in plants (found in the highest concentrations). Because they are readily available from the aquarium water they do not need to be supplemented (with the exception of carbon which can be added to the aquarium with a CO2 reactor).
Hopefuly this helps clear up some of the confusion with planted tank supplementation.
Brandon
(+1 rating, 1 votes) Loading ...An Introduction to Some Common Boxing Shrimp
Mar 25th
Melissa here, just figured I would write this blog on some new Banded Coral Shrimp 
species we have in stock. Banded Coral Shrimp are members of the Stenopodidae family, and are referred to as “Boxing Shrimp” because of the way their large pincher’s are held. They are ready to take a swing at whatever comes close enough like a boxer would. Banded Coral Shrimp should be given plenty of space to scavenge without their long antennae touching neighboring corals or anemones, and lots of caves to hide in. Banded coral shrimp are relatively hardy, but must be acclimated slowly to avoid any salinity and/or pH shock. They are intolerant of high nitrates or copper levels, but iodine is encouraged to promote proper molting. Banded Coral Shrimp are generally peaceful towards fish, but may harass other small shrimp and are intolerant of others of the same genus. For this reason they must be kept singly, or in mated pairs. In the wild, banded coral shrimp are know to feed on parasites, dead tissue removed from fish, and other tiny organisms. In the home aquarium, Banded Coral Shrimp will usually accept most flaked and frozen foods, plankton, and meaty items. They are also known to be effective bristleworm hunters in the reef aquarium.
Most people are familiar with the first species, Stenopus hispidus as the most common species in the trade. They have a red and white banded body and claws resembling the stripes of the American Flag. I happen to have a pair of these banded coral shrimp in my tank at home. They are out all of the time and usually only an antennae length away from each other. My female is constantly carrying eggs. Something really cool that I have witnessed several times was when my female is within a day or so of releasing her eggs the male waits on her hand and foot. He brings her food and makes sure none of the fish bother her. That is about the only time I ever see them apart. I would have to say my favorite invert would have to be these shrimp.
Other species of banded coral shrimp we get in from time to time are the Golden Banded Coral Shrimp, Stenopus scutellatus and the Blue Banded Shrimp, Stenopus tenuirostris.
They have similar red and bands on the tail and claws as seen on Stenopus hispidis, but have a bright yellow or violet blue body and white antennae. The Blue Banded shrimp also has golden bands between the red bands.
There is also another really cool species that recently arrived here, Stenopus zanzibaricus. This shrimp is mostly white with two red bands on the tail and two red markings on the proximal portion of the front arms. It has white claws and red antennae. Do not attempt to mix the Zanzibar shrimp with Stenopus hispidus because they will fight to death, usually with one usually loosing the battle and its life.
(No Ratings Yet) Loading ...Nitrous Oxide-Emitting Organisms – Recent Research
Mar 23rd
Eileen here.
The poetic tranquility of water. The bliss of a flowing stream. The subtle euphoria of the aquatic world. We marine biologists know it well. But, as German researchers from the Max Planck Institute for Marine Microbiology have found in recent research, it truly may not be a feeling of completeness and belonging imposed from finding our place in the aquatic world and sensing that special oneness with nature and all things hydrologic.
Nope. Turns out its just some little critters in the mud emitting laughing gas. Go figure.
Laughing gas, otherwise known as Nitrous oxide and one of the most notorious “greenhouse gases” is released by animals that feed by eating and sifting through sediments. According to the study, animals that dig through the mud also end up eating nitrogen-converting bacteria which then in turn causes the animal to release the Nitrous oxide byproduct as they digest their food. While the researchers don’t feel that we have anything to worry about with the amounts of nitrous oxide produced, they do feel that the amounts could significantly increase if the amount of polluted water entering the streams rise. Looks like we’ll have to keep enjoying bodies of water the old-fashioned way – by boring our friends and loved ones to tears while we try to scientifically identify everything we see.
You can read the full article on LiveScience.com.
(No Ratings Yet) Loading ...Different Fish For Tank Cycling – Starting With Something Different
Mar 20th
Hello everyone! This is Craig. Just the other day I was helping a customer and was showing him some fish that would be hardy enough to cycle his brand new freshwater community aquarium. I went through the normal fish selections of zebra danios, blue danios, and white clouds. He expressed a certain… lack of enthusiasm towards fish that, while being sturdy and inexpensive, did not show as much character as he would have hoped. “Everyone has those fish…” is a common response to the zebra danios. Having thought about this a bit… I decided to put together a short list of fish that are durable, inexpensive, and… well… different than the zebra danio.
First on the list would be the brilliant rasbora. Rasbora borapetensis is a beautiful and hardy fish. An elongated fish with gold and black lateral stripes and a red tail, the brilliant rasbora will attain a size of close to 3 inches in length. In larger schools they are quite impressive as they cruise the aquarium in a tight formation. They will not nip at plants or long fins, so brilliant rasboras make a beautiful and active addition to the community aquarium.
Staying with the rasbora group of fishes, the harlequin rasbora ( Rasbora heteromorpha ) is another fish that is beautiful, hardy, and peaceful. The harlequin rasbora is a small schooling fish that is pink with a large black triangle covering the back half of the fish. Barely reaching 1.5 inches, this fish shows very well in schools of 8 or more. As the fish ages, the color intensifies and is really quite spectacular. The harlequin rasbora is a little gem that can be included in almost any small community aquarium.
Another hardy and colorful fish that can be used a “starter fish” is the Serpae tetra. The Serpae tetra ( Hyphessobrycon eques ) is a beautiful tetra that does best in schools of 6 or more. This fish has had a long standing history of being one of the more sturdy tetras and, when kept in a warm aquarium, can show a deep crimson color with a black spot on their sides. When kept in smaller numbers, the Serpae tetra can be somewhat nippy, but that problem is easily solved by adding more individuals to the school.
The cherry barb ( Puntius titteya ) is still another colorful and hardy small fish to add to this list. While most barbs have a tendancy to be little nippers, the cherry barb is quite a bit more relaxed and very rarely nips at fins. The males of this species are a nice cherry red, while the females are a burnt orange color. This barb swims toward the lower regions of your aquarium and will do best in groups of 5 or more. Mixing the ratio of males to females will produce the best color and will also produce some interesting courting displays from the males.
So, for those of you that want to start your freshwater community with a little more color or variety, there are options! There are actually more options than listed above, but these 4 species of fish are, quite possibly, the top 4 choices for cycling a new tank. Just remember to be patient when beginning your new aquarium, and you should have no troubles at all!
(No Ratings Yet) Loading ...
