Archive for August, 2008
The Natural History and Captive Care of Native Seahorses – the Dwarf Seahorse, Hippocampus zosterae
Aug 19th
Please welcome back Frank Indiviglio with another excellent article.
Introduction – A Most Captivating Fish
Seahorses, armor-plated and prehensile-tailed, and equipped with independently-moving eyes and fins that flutter like wings, seem to stretch the limit of what might conceivably be called “a fish”. Add to this the phenomenon of “male pregnancy” (the male incubates the eggs in a pouch and adjusts the salinity of the water therein as needed; please see my article posted on this blog on June 27, 2008 for more details) and the fact that seahorses change color and can grow and discard filamentous appendages, and you can easily see why they have long attracted marine aquarists. All of the nearly 130 species (Family Syngnathidae) are, however, strict live food specialists, and rarely thrive on the brine shrimp-based diet commonly offered to them in captivity.
The two species highlighted in this article (Please see Part I, The Atlantic Seahorse, published last week) were chosen because, of all, they are the most likely to do well on diets that are within the means of most aquarists. Please do not be tempted to try other species until you are well-experienced with the following animals. I will focus here on points unique to seahorse husbandry – water quality and filtration should be managed as for other marine fishes (please see related articles posted on this blog).
Dwarf Seahorse, Hippocampus zosterae
Description and Habitat
“Seapony” might be a more appropriate name for this diminutive creature, which, at an adult length of 0.9 inches, is only slightly larger than the smallest known species, Denise’s pygmy seahorse (please see below). Ranging from Florida to the Bahamas, the dwarf seahorse may be white, yellow, green or black in color. It dwells in sea grass beds, so much so that the species name, “zosterae”, is drawn from that of the plant with which it is most often associated. Northern populations were formerly considered to be a separate species, H. regulus.
An Ideal “First Seahorse”
In sharp contrast to larger fishes, dwarf seahorses offer us the opportunity to observe nearly all of their natural behaviors in captivity. Due to their small size, they adjust readily to the confines of aquarium life. Three pairs in a 15 gallon tank will reward you with a display of activities not often observed among captive seahorses of other species. As a consequence, their captive husbandry is well understood, and many specimens in the trade are commercially produced. This is an important consideration at a time when many seahorse species are in sharp decline (please see below).
Interest in this charming creature peaked here in the 1960’s and early 70’s, when they were advertised for sale in the backs of magazines. My grandfather, who kept marine fishes even before that time, so aroused my interest in them that I eventually wrote a book on the care and natural history of seahorses (please see below).
The Key to Feeding Dwarf Seahorses
Dwarf seahorses are one of the only seahorse species that will thrive on a diet consisting solely of enriched brine shrimp. They will, however, appreciate an occasional meal of tiny, wild caught invertebrates – thin meshed “plankton nets,” (available from biological supply houses) drawn through shallow marine waters will yield a wealth of valuable food items. “Enriched” brine shrimp are those that have been allowed to feed for a few days before themselves being given to the seahorses. This process increases the shrimps’ nutritional value, and is indispensable if one is to succeed in keeping dwarf seahorses. Therefore, brine shrimp intended as seahorse food should be given Brightwell Aquatic’s Phyto-Green, or a similar product, for several days.
Breeding and Other Considerations
In common with all their relatives, dwarf seahorses require calm water and suitable “hitching posts” upon which to wrap their tails. There is some evidence that wild seahorses consistently utilize the same hitching sites, so their aquarium’s décor should not be re-arranged once they have been introduced. Captive reproduction is a definite possibility – the tiny young can take only newly-hatched brine shrimp, so be sure to set up a brine shrimp hatchery in advance.
Tiny, Newly Discovered Specialists
The Pygmy Seahorse, Hippocampus bargibanti, first described in 1970, seems to live on only 2 species of gorgonians (soft corals) of the genus Muricella. So closely does it resemble the coral’s polyps that the individual which led to the first description of the species was not discovered until it was seen on a coral that had been placed in an aquarium several days earlier! At 0.8 inches in length, it was the smallest known species until the discovery, in 2003, of Indonesia’s Denise’s pygmy seahorse. Adults of this minute creature are a mere 0.6 inches long.
As mentioned, I became so enamored of these unique fishes that I wrote a book on their care and natural history – if you have a chance to read it, please forward your thoughts and suggestions to me. Until then, please write in with your questions and comments. Thanks, until next time, Frank.
Project Seahorse is the world’s premier seahorse conservation and research organization. A wealth of information is available at their web site:
http://seahorse.fisheries.ubc.ca/who.html
Thanks for the great article Frank,
Until Next Time,
Dave
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Loading ...Botia striata : The Smart Snail Solution
Aug 15th
Please welcome Craig Beauchamp to That Fish Blog. Craig’s another of our fish room experts. He’s been 
involved with the retail fish trade since 1996, and served as Director of Freshwater Fish at top stores in Atlanta and San Diego. His interests and expertise lie in both Old World and New World Cichlids, tropical planted tanks, and marine reef aquaria. He’s been an aquatics supervisor at TFP since 2007.
With the rise in popularity of tropical planted aquariums, people are also beginning to look for new solutions to aid in snail prevention and eradication. Since many of the snail killing products on the market today contain copper, they are not a wise choice to use in planted aquariums because of the sensitivity of those plants to copper. That leaves aquarists with two choices : mechanical or biological snail control. Mechanical control consists of trapping the snails with a jar that contains a leaf of lettuce. The jar is placed in the tank at night and removed in the morning. Another mechanical solution is physically removing the individual snails by hand. One can see that neither of these methods offer complete control. Biological control involves using snail eating fish to remove the snails from your tank. This is often the best and most efficient way to remove snails in any tank.
While many people look to the clown loach ( Chromobotia macracanthus) to help rid their tanks of pesky snail populations, there are several small species of Botia that are perhaps a better, smarter solution for tanks under 150 gallons. Botia striata is one of these species. While the clown loach reaches a size of nearly 40 cm (16 in.) the modest zebra loach only attains a size of around 10cm (4in.) A curious and attractive addition to your tank, the zebra loach has the typical torpedo – shaped body of most botia. They are yellow in color with diagonal black striations. The zebra loach hails from clear mountain streams in India, where it lives in shoals of several individuals and feeds on crustaceans, insect larvae, worms, and soft plant material. Botia striata are relatively undemanding fish to keep in a home aquarium. Although they prefer softer water, they tolerate a wide range of pH vaues (6.5 to 8.0) and can also tolerate temperatures from 75 F to 82 F, so long as the temperature is stable. Like most botia, the zebra loach does benefit from higher oxygen levels in the water. Performing small weekly water changes of 10% to 20% and placing an airstone in the aquarium will provide plenty of oxygen. Weekly water changes will also keep your dissolved organic levels down to a minimum. This will be appreciated greatly by all residents of the aquarium, especially any botia or loach.
Zebra loaches, since they live in shoals in their natural habitats, love the company of their own kind. A small group of 3 or more is recommended, although a male and a female will live together in relative bliss. Females tend to be more robust and heavier of body than their slimmer, more streamlined male counterparts. A pair or small group of these fish will work diligently to remove any unwanted snail from your aquarium. Supplemental feedings with algae wafers, sinking pelleted foods, and frozen shrimp will round out their diet nicely.
The size and peaceful nature of Botia striata make them an ideal choice for any community aquarium. It is their small size, combined with the gregarious and calm nature of the fish, that makes it an obvious choice for anyone wanting to rid their tank of snails. With proper care and feeding, Botia striata will live for up to 15 years and provide you with a wonderful and hardy addition to your community aquarium.
Thanks for the article Craig,
Until Next Time,
Dave
(No Ratings Yet) Loading ...If You Build it They Will Come – New Ponds and Unexpected Visitors
Aug 14th
Please welcome back Patty Little for another excellent pond blog.
Surprisingly enough, “If You Build it They Will Come,” does not only apply to ghost baseball players in a former cornfield. I think a lot of people are astounded at the plants and animals that appear and establish in their back yard when they build small ornamental ponds. 
By creating a water feature, you invite all kinds of things from wild areas, and you may find the addition of this little oasis is more of a reward than you could have imagined. The more you are able to observe your pond, the more you are likely to see these visitors, or at least signs that they are visiting.
Whether you live in a rural, suburban or urban environment, the presence of fresh, cool, flowing water becomes an instant attraction for living things from land and air, both wanted and unwanted. I thought it might be fun to mention a few of the things you may encounter once your water feature is established.
The first thing we do to our ponds is beautify them with plants both in and around, then add some fish- koi, comets, orfes, whatever suits our fancy! Soon after, the magic begins. Think of all of those unseen eyes and keen senses suddenly aware of the newest neighborhood water resort.
You may see lots of interesting things appear beneath the surface. There are lots of insects whose larvae exist first in water, later to morph into airborne adults. These include some beetles, flies, and of course the lovely dragonflies and damselflies. Don’t rush to rid your pond of these alien-looking guys if you come across them, they will serve as a food source for more interesting visitors, and should not be harmful to large fish.
Frogs, toads, and newts may be some of the first outsiders to take residence. They love the water and the damp areas surrounding the pond, and the abundance of insects that will also be attracted to the water. These are for the most part desirable to have in the pond both for aesthetics and for insect control. In the spring, you may notice clusters of eggs and tadpoles. Most of the amphibians that survive to adulthood will probably move on when they are able, so don’t worry too much about being plagued by frogs.
Reptiles need water too, so under the right conditions it is possible that snakes and turtles native to your area may be found in and around a pond. These may come and go, and the best policy would be to leave them alone, like any other wild animal. They do not intend you or your pond any harm, and in the unlikely event that you may encounter a reptile that does warrant outside attention, contact someone at your local fish and wildlife organization before taking matters into your own hands.
Songbirds are not the only feathered visitors you’ll see. Count on water birds like ducks to stop off for a swim, and herons, egrets, and kingfishers to name a few that might stop off for a snack, particularly with fish and frogs as food offerings. The best you can do is to look for methods to deter these predators from your pond if you find them troublesome, but do not cause them any harm.
Depending on your location, anything from opossum and raccoon, to deer and bear may be curious enough to visit your pond. You may never see any sign of these visitors as many are active at night, but under duress of climactic issues (like severe drought for example) or habitat infringement, animal encounters are seemingly more and more frequent. If you should witness their visits, it is best to quietly observe and leave the animal to its own. Anyone visiting the blog from more temperate areas than Pennsylvania may have other interesting tales of visitors as well. I’ve seen footage of Florida residents with visiting alligators and even constrictors (released or lost by irresponsible keeper, now established breeding populations) in small backyard ponds…that would be a shock to see here!
Other things you may find are snails that may hitchhike in potted plants or establish from eggs on plants. Plants, particularly small floaters like duckweed may appear in your pond too. Remember that birds and animals that visit your pond have probably visited lots of other watery areas and may carry with them welcome, or unwanted, introductions to your pond. If you build it, chances are they will come, good and bad, curious and hungry, but all unique and beautiful in their own right. Welcome to the world of ornamental pond ownership!
Until Next Time, Patty
(No Ratings Yet) Loading ...The Natural History and Captive Care of Native Seahorses – The Atlantic (Northern or Lined) Seahorse, Hippocampus erectus
Aug 12th
Introduction
Today I would like to discuss a large, temperate water seahorse that can be kept and even bred in captivity by those willing to devote the necessary time and effort to its care.
Note: Please see my article posted on this blog on June 27, 2008 for information concerning new research into the phenomenon of “male pregnancy” in seahorses.
A Temperate Seahorse
Most people consider seahorses to be tropical in origin, and may be surprised to learn that the Atlantic seahorse ranges as far north as Nova Scotia, the waters of which are decidedly “un-tropical”. It also occurs south to Venezuela, and it is the only seahorse to dwell north of North Carolina along our eastern seaboard.
Found from the shoreline to depths of over 230 feet, this weak swimmer somehow manages to survive in areas of strong tidal activity. I have collected Atlantic seahorses attached to clumps of marine algae being swept along by very strong currents. Mated pairs are believed to establish stable territories, but I cannot imagine how they can accomplish this in the turbulent waters they sometimes inhabit. I imagine that individuals in such populations move to quiet bays during the breeding season – any information you might have concerning this would be most appreciated.
Feeding Atlantic Seahorses
The Atlantic seahorse’s rather large size, to 7.3 inches, allows it to take a wide variety of prey, including small shrimps, blackworms and fish fry. This, coupled with the fact that many individuals can be tempted to eat frozen foods moved about in a life-like manner, makes the Atlantic seahorse a good (but still delicate) candidate for experienced aquarists.
In addition to the foods mentioned above, Atlantic seahorses that I have kept were extremely fond of amphipods (scuds or side-swimmers), sand hoppers, seed shrimp and sand shrimp that I seined in local marine waters. Their reactions to these food items were quite intense, much more so than to the fish fry, brine shrimp and opossum shrimp (Mysids) that made up the bulk of their diet.
I urge anyone attempting to keep seahorses to collect live foods whenever possible. It is especially advantageous to maintain native species, as you have a better chance of providing these with a balanced diet based on natural, wild-caught prey (an extremely important consideration when keeping delicate live-food specialists).
Several specimens under my care also accepted frozen clams, shrimp and scallops. This requires a conditioning period, and is best accomplished with young animals or long-term captives. Frozen food is initially mixed in with live food, and kept in motion via the filter outflow (or, for the really dedicated, water squirted from a turkey baster). You may also wish to experiment with freeze dried krill and similar foods.
Black mollies breed readily, and few pairs should be maintained as a food source for Atlantic seahorses. Their fry, which will survive the transition to salt water if slowly acclimated, are usually readily consumed by the seahorses.
Other fresh-water food animals worth trying include fairy shrimp, bloodworms (midge larvae, Chironomus spp.), blackworms, micro-worms, grindal worms and white worms. Please bear in mind that these animals expire and decompose rapidly in salt water, and that they do not likely provide complete nutrition in and of themselves.
Seahorse Companions
This species presents a limited exception to the general rule that seahorses should not be housed with other creatures. Actively swimming fishes should be avoided, as they will out-compete the seahorses for food. However, Atlantic seahorses will get along well with northern pipefish (these may be seined from eel grass beds where legal), hermit crabs, sea stars, small spider and horseshoe crabs and fifteen-spined sticklebacks, Spinachia spinachia (these last feed fairly slowly, but watch the seahorses’ intake carefully).
A quite interesting community tank can be built around the Atlantic seahorse and some of the creatures that share its habitat. As these are generally over-looked by aquarists, the potential to learn something new is very great. I would be most pleased if you shared your observations with me.
Other Considerations
Hailing as they do from temperate waters, Atlantic seahorses from northern populations should be kept in unheated aquariums. Breeding (which I’ll cover in depth in the future) will be more likely if they are provided with natural fluctuations in day length and temperature. This can be accomplished by situating their aquarium near a window (beware of over-heating during the summer) or by installing a light timer to regulate day length. Atlantic seahorses may give birth to over 300 young.
Seahorses in Peril
Untold millions of seahorses are collected annually for use in Chinese and South Asian traditional medical practices, and for the curio and pet trade. Many more perish due to habitat loss and as “by-catch” in commercial fishing operations. Please be sure to purchase only captive-bred seahorses.
I became so enamored of these unique fishes that I wrote a book on their care and natural history – if you have a chance to read it, please forward your thoughts and suggestions to me. I’ll write more about seahorses and their relatives in future articles. Until then, please write in with your questions and comments. Thanks, until next time, Frank.
Information about a reintroduction program for the Atlantic seahorse on Long Island, NY is posted at:
http://counties.cce.cornell.edu/suffolk/habitat_restoration/seagrassli/ecology/fauna_flora/seahorses.html
Seahorse (Hippocampus erectus). Taken at the New England Aquarium (Boston, MA, December 2006. Copyright © 2006 Steven G. Johnson and donated to Wikipedia under GFDL and CC-by-SA
(No Ratings Yet) Loading ...Species overview of various Tangs for the Home Aquarium
Aug 8th
Tangs tend to be a favorite among aquarists since they are very colorful and have a taste for algae. Tangs are primarily herbivorous and need a diet rich in algae. There are many algae based food that are great for tangs including live caulerpa, nori strips, and formula 2 that comes in a frozen variety as well as flakes and pellets. Tangs should also be given some meaty food to round out their diet. However, tangs that are fed primarily meaty foods over a long period of time are more likely to suffer from head and lateral line erosion(HLLE). HLLE disease in the short run is not fatal, but over time if the disease continues to progress the fish will stop eating and become lethargic. The open wounds that result will make the fish susceptible to other infections, and these secondary infections may eventually contribute to its demise. The best treatment is prevention; maintain excellent water quality and feed a rich vegetarian diet. Supplementing with a multivitamin (A, D, E, B complex, and Iodine) may also help prevent further erosion. Selcon, garlic guard, and vita-chem are excellent food additives. Tangs are also susceptible to Amyloodinium and Cryptocaryon so proper quarantine is a must. Once tangs make it through the initial quarantine they are usually pretty hardy.
Tangs are generally community fish and get along with most other tank-mates. They don’t usually bother corals and can actually help keep nuisance algae trimmed and under control. Tangs may become territorial and aggressive towards very similar tank-mates or other tangs from the same genus. Tangs are very active swimmers and should not be housed in any tank smaller than 50 gallons but larger is always better.
In our retail store we have a great selection of colorful tangs. One of the most popular tangs that we sell would be the yellow tang, (Zebrasoma flavesence). Yellow tangs are very hardy but can bully new tank-mates. They will do best if added to a community tank last. Yellow tangs can reach a max size of 8 inches so choose their tank size accordingly. They are very active swimmers and become rather bold. They are sure to be a bright center piece in any tank.
Another tang closely related to the yellow tang would be the purple tang (Zebrasoma xanthurum). Purple tangs are a gorgeous deep purple to blue with a bright yellow tail. They are 
not as readily available as some other tangs but we do have these beauties from time to time. Purple tangs are also pretty feisty once acclimated. They can reach a max size of 10 inches so a large home is a must.
Sailfin tangs, (Zebrasoma veliferum) and (Zebrasoma desjardinii), are one of the larger tangs with adults capable of reaching 16 inches. As juveniles both species of sailfin tangs look identical. As they mature Zebrasoma veliferum tends to retain most of its juvenile coloration where Zebrasome desjardinii will phase out its stripes and change them to spots and their overall coloration becomes muted. Sailfin tangs are rather peaceful tangs and get 
along with most other tank-mates, however they do not tolerate others of the same kind or genus unless they are kept in a very large aquarium. They also have great personalities and do recognize the hand that feeds them.
Another very popular tang is the Hippo tang (Paracanthurus hepatus). They have a bright yellow tail and electric blue body with a black hook shaped mark overlaid on each side. Hippo tangs tend to be shy but may bicker with other tangs in the tank from time to time. Juvenile hippo tangs are usually found in groups but usually do best as a single specimen unless the tank is 
very large since adults can reach a max size around 12 inches.
Another true beauty would be the Powder blue tang (Acanthurus leucosternon). Powder blue tangs have a baby blue body, yellow dorsal fin and caudal peduncle, white anal and ventral fins, and a black face with a white area below the jawline. Powder blue tangs are one of the more delicate tangs so extreme care should be taken when transporting and acclimating this fish. They are also notorious ich magnets so quarantining new specimens is a must. If proper care is given powder blue tangs can reach a max size of 8 inches.
One of my all time favorite tangs is the Achilles tang (Acanthurus achilles). Achilles tangs are jet black with a splash of vivid orange in a teardrop shape right before the caudal fin. The caudal fin itself is orange rimmed in white. The dorsal and anal fins are also have a hint of orange with white and black. Achilles tangs , like the powder blue tangs, are very delicate and rather difficult to acclimate and get to feed regularly. However, if you are able to meet the demands of this fish they will reward you greatly with their stunning beauty.
In closing, most tangs are acceptable to be housed in a captive 
environment and will thrive for many years to come. Research is the key though. Make sure you gain as much knowledge as you can since that in turn will give the tang that you choose the best possible home next to the ocean where it come from.
Check out some videos our staff here made on basic care for the yellow tang and hippo tang at You Tube.
Until Next Time,
Melissa
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