That Bird Blog » bird health

Understanding Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease (PBFD)

findiviglio — Sat, 29 Oct 2011 18:15:18 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Also known as Psittacine Circovirus Disease, PBFD, which is incurable, has been identified in over 60 species of wild and captive parrots. It has been much in the news lately, and the questions I’ve received indicate that some of the coverage has been confusing to bird owners. Today I’d like to summarize what we know, and what remains to be done in the battle against PBFD.

PBFD Natural History

The virus that causes PBFD was first described in 1987, when it was discovered in a captive group Orange-Bellied Parrots, a highly endangered species. Further study revealed that the virus occurred naturally in Australia, and likely was endemic there (found nowhere else). The disease is now established worldwide, apparently having been spread by the legal and illegal trade in parrots.

The PBFD virus is an extremely hardy organism, and likely survives for many years in nest hollows and roosting/feeding areas. To date, only one disinfectant, Virkon S, has proven able to kill it. The virus has been found in feather dust, feces and the crop lining of infected birds. Transmission seems to occur in several ways – direct contact with sick birds, inhalation of the virus from dust and feces and via food passed to chicks by parents.

PBFB may incubate within a parrot for 3 weeks to 12 months, during which time symptoms will not be visible. Birds incubating the virus will, however, shed it in the feces and feather dust, and thus infect others. In rare cases, adult parrots may survive PBFD. Unfortunately, they continue to shed the virus even after full recovery.

The Various Forms of PBFD

Three forms on PBFD have been identified. Peracute PBFD affects newly-hatched chicks and is usually fatal within 2-3 weeks. As feather abnormalities are not visible, this form is usually diagnosed only upon necropsy.

Acute PBFD is seen among nestlings that are developing their first feathers, and usually causes death within weeks. Infected birds become lethargic, and may vomit and exhibit abnormal feather growth (please see below).

Adult parrots afflicted with Chronic PBFD exhibit feather abnormalities such as the loss of powder down, curled feathers, retained sheaths and color changes. The beak, especially in cockatoos, may flake and crack, and nails may curl as they grow. Diarrhea, lethargy and vomiting may are often present.

PBFD is most accurately diagnosed via a blood test.

Immune System Effects

In addition to causing feather, nail and beak destruction, PBFD depresses the immune system. Death often results from secondary infections (i.e. septicemia and pneumonia) caused by opportunistic bacteria. Cracks in the beak, and skin wounds caused by abnormal feather growth, likely worsen the situation by providing an easy route for bacterial infection.

Managing PBFD in the Wild

PBFD is considered to be a serious threat to the survival of several rare Australian species, including the Swift, Orange-Bellied and Norfolk Island Green Parrots. Australia’s Environmental Protection and Biodiversity Act provides for a PBFD management program (please see article below).

Research into the development of a vaccine is ongoing, but success is not expected in the near future.

Managing PBFD in Captivity

While there is as yet no cure for PBFD, there are some steps that can be taken to increase the quality of life for infected pets. As is true for all creatures, a proper environment and diet will strengthen the immune system and possibly reduce the severity of the disease or its symptoms. Exposure to sunlight or artificial UVB, a natural photo-period (day/night cycle) and an appropriate diet have been found useful (please see article below).

If you maintain a parrot collection, newly-received individuals should be kept in isolation until they have been checked for PBFD. Due to the severity of the symptoms, one may need to consider euthanasia as the disease progresses.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Using Flowers as Food for Parrots, Finches and other Birds

findiviglio — Wed, 10 Aug 2011 16:24:53 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Sending flowers is a time-honored way of showing affection and concern, but did you know that your parrots and other feathered pets might appreciate a bouquet as well? I’m not suggesting actually having flowers delivered to your parrot (although I know several who have done that!), but rather that you consider edible flowers as a source of bird food and behavioral enrichment.

The Role of Flowers in Bird Diets

Flowers, buds and nectar figure heavily in the natural diets of many parrots, finches and softbills. In fact, lories and lorikeets are actually “floral specialists” (please see drawing of lorikeet tongue, adapted for nectar feeding). However, with the exception of nectar-mixes, flowers have largely been ignored by most pet keepers.

Flowers are also a major food item of several less commonly-kept softbills, including hummingbirds, sunbirds and the aptly-named flower-peckers. Ornithologists speculate that the brilliant colors of some species may have evolved to provide camouflage during feeding sessions in flowering trees.

Behavioral Stimulation

In addition to their nutritional value, flowers can provide important behavioral stimulation for parrots and other birds. Most parrots delight in tearing them to bits, and bud-covered fruit tree branches (apple, pear, plum etc.) will provide hours of entertainment for both pet and pet-owner. Finches, White-Eyes, Pekin Robins and other small birds will also poke about in flowers for insect treats, real or “imagined”, and may consume petals and nectar as well.

Purchasing Flowers

Fortunately, it’s quite simple to incorporate flowers into your birds’ diets. Many bird-safe flowers are relished by people, and are available in food stores. In NYC markets, I’ve come across squash, zucchini, rose and daylily flowers (note: not all daylilies are safe for people or birds, so do not pick your own), as well as a number that I did not recognize. Korean, Chinese and Indian neighborhoods have proven especially rich flower-hunting grounds.

Do not buy edible flowers from garden supply outlets or florists, as these will not have been slated for human consumption and would likely have been exposed to toxic chemicals.

Dried flowers specifically marketed as bird food are also a useful option. Goldenfeast’s Hibiscus and Chamomile

may be offered to a variety of parrots, finches and softbills.

Growing and Collecting Flowers for Your Birds

If the option is available to you, growing your own edible flowers is a great alternative to shopping.

Harvesting wild flowers is also possible, but you must be confident in your ability to identify the various species and have access to a pesticide-free collecting site. A field guide will be useful in this regard.

Common, Easy-to-Grow Edible Flowers

The following common flowers are readily accepted by many birds and can easily be grown or, in some cases, purchased at food markets. Do not buy flowers intended as food anywhere other than at a food market; please see above.

Daisy Marigold

Dandelion Rose

Carnation Sunflower

Violet Zucchini Blossoms

Tulip Squash Blossoms

Elderberry Hibiscus

Impatiens Apple,Plum and Pear Blossoms

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments here…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Heat Stroke in Parrots, Finches and other Birds – Symptoms and Treatment

findiviglio — Wed, 03 Aug 2011 15:36:27 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. In a recent article, I suggested some techniques that can be used to keep your birds cool and safe during hot weather (please see article below). Today I’d like to take a look at recognizing and dealing with heat stress and heat stoke.

Note: the attached photos depict some North American birds that are well-adapted to desert habitats – the Roadrunner, Gila Woodpecker and Elf Owl.

Dangerous Places and Temperatures

Wild birds and pets kept in large outdoor aviaries rarely experience heat-related problems, no matter how high temperatures climb (of course there are limits – don’t try keeping your pet penguin outdoors in Las Vegas!).

Small cages in direct sunlight present a real danger, but closed cars and unventilated rooms are the main places where pets suffer heat stroke. In NYC, I’ve recorded temperatures of 103-105 F in an attic apartment, and 155 F in a parked car. Temperatures can build to these levels very quickly, and can be fatal to birds in mere minutes.

Symptoms

As heat stress sets in, an afflicted bird will spread its wings out from the body and pump its throat in-and-out in a panting motion. Known as gular flapping, this behavior will cause heat to be lost to the air, and is the avian version of sweating (birds lack sweat glands). Treatment instituted at this point will usually prevent heat stroke.

As time goes on, a heat stressed parrot or other bird will adopt what can only be described as a “glassy-eyed stare”, and may be unresponsive to stimuli such as noise. It is now progressing from heat stress to heat stroke. The bird will rock back and forth and be unsteady on its feet. In the final stages, the victim will fall over and the body may go into convulsions. The actual “stroke” appears to be caused by clots that prevent blood from travelling through the vessels supplying the bird’s brain.

Treating Heat Stress

Quick action must be taken when a bird exhibits signs of heat stress or stroke. In cases of heat stress, fans and air conditioners should be employed when possible…a quick change in air temperature will not severely stress the bird. Provide a bath as well, perhaps standing the bird in it to encourage its use. Gatoraide can be added to the bath and/or drinking water.

Heat stress that does not progress to stroke still warrants a visit to the veterinarian. Your pet’s immune system has been taxed by the event, and so minor, undetected health problems may suddenly become serious. Long term, low-grade heat stress is also hard on the immune system, so be sure to always keep your pets at the optimal temperature for their species (please write in if you need specific information on this).

Treating Heat Stroke

A bird in the throes of heat stoke must be treated immediately and then transported to a veterinarian if death is to be avoided.

Bath the bird in cool but not ice-cold water (unlike quick air temperature changes, an icy bath can do more harm than good). Mix a bit of hand or dish soap into the bath water to defeat the feathers’ oily water-proofing; cool water will have a better effect when actually in contact with the skin. Wrap your pet in a cool towel and, if time permits, wrap some ice or an ice-substitute in a towel and apply to the base of the beak and feet. Above all, drive carefully on the way to the vet’s office – common sense, I know, but I have stories….

Please also post your questions and comments here…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Hot Weather Parrot Tips – Keeping Your Pet Birds Cool in Summer

findiviglio — Tue, 21 Jun 2011 14:16:09 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Most parrots, finches and other pet birds are native to tropical habitats, but summer weather can still be a threat to their health. Wild birds have numerous ways to regulate their exposure to extreme temperatures, but caged pets must rely upon us to take action on their behalf.

Heat Metabolism in Birds

A basic understanding of avian heat metabolism will help you to evaluate the risks presented by the local weather conditions. Birds maintain higher internal temperatures than do people – 105 F for most species, and up to 108 F in some. So, if you are uncomfortable with the temperature, your bird will likely will be so as well.

Most birds also eat more than we do, given their size, and their metabolisms are very fast. Digesting all the food they take in produces a great deal of metabolic heat – a 5 pound chicken, for example, generates the same amount of heat as a 20 watt light bulb (I didn’t do the conversion, but it is a poultry industry standard!).

How Birds Lose Heat

Birds lose heat to the environment in 2 basic ways. Sensible Heat Loss refers to the passive loss of heat that occurs because the bird is (usually) warmer than its environment. This is similar to what occurs when a hot bowl of soup is left out at room temperature. Birds lose more heat when the air temperature is cool, less as it warms up.

Heat is also carried away from the bird via the evaporation of water produced by the respiratory system. This process is known as Latent Heat Loss. Humid air slows the loss of heat via this process, dry air speeds it up.

From this we can see that hot, humid air is the most serious concern for birds and other pets, and people. So perhaps those folks who don’t mind Arizona’s heat so much because “It’s a dry heat” are onto something!

Symptoms of Heat Stress

Over-heated birds are easy to recognize. Most will open the mouth and pump the throat. This behavior, which resembles panting in mammals, is known as Gular Flapping please see photos of Java Rice Bird and Albatross). The wings may also be held away from the body, and will appear to “droop” (i.e. not be held in close, in the normal manner). As temperatures rise or time goes on, the bird will become listless and weak, and may sit on the cage bottom.

Treating Over-heated Birds

Heat stress in birds is a serious concern and must be addressed immediately; any delay can quickly lead to a fatality. Misting the bird with cool water is effective, but take care not to startle the bird. Your pet’s immune system will already be in a weakened state, and thrashing about the cage in response to a shower will make matters worse.

If you cannot spray the bird or lower the air temperature by moving the cage or using an air conditioner, veterinary advice should be sought. A vet visit is also in order if you lower the temperature but your bird does not behave normally shortly thereafter.

Avoiding Heat-Related Problems

It’s important to plan ahead so that heat stress can be avoided. Although it’s “common knowledge” that window glass, closed cars and such can greatly magnify the sun’s intensity, tragic accidents, often involving children or disabled adults, still occur regularly. Years ago I experimented with a temperature-sensing gun and found that a car parked in the sun on a warm but not terribly hot day in NYC could reach 155 F within minutes…so take care to keep your bird away from such situations. Closed rooms in full sun can also become dangerously warm in short order.

Air conditioners set at moderate levels and fans are obviously useful; even if the air being circulated is warm, it will help in pulling heat from the bird’s body. Be careful not to direct the air flow directly at the bird, and bear in mind that lowering the humidity will also assist your bird’s natural cooling system (please see above).

I move the heat-sensitive amphibians in my collection to my basement each summer; this is a good option for birds in extreme weather as well. When doing so, be sure to set a light timer to keep the bird’s normal day/night schedule, as a sudden change can tax the immune system.

Gel-based freezer packs placed in zip-lock bags can be used to provide a degree of cool air within the bird’s cage. Be sure to frequently change drinking and bath water, and food, during hot weather. Bacterial growth spikes as temperatures rise, often beginning within 15 minutes of exposure to heat. Cool water for drinking and bathing should always be available.

Please also post your questions and comments here…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Clean Air for You and Your Birds – Ozone Generators, Ionizers or Air Purifiers?

findiviglio — Fri, 17 Jun 2011 14:34:53 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. When I first began working with birds in zoo collections, older keepers warned me about respiratory ailments such as “Bird Breeder’s Lung” and “Poultry Worker’s Disease”. Several of my co-workers were always short of breath and coughed frequently. Eventually, some were diagnosed with Hypersensitivity Pneumonitis (a/k/a Extrinsic Allergic Alveolitis), which results from inhaling organic dust and other irritating substances. Private bird owners are also sometimes afflicted with this condition, and birds themselves may sicken and die when exposed to certain common airborne particles and chemicals. Unfortunately, advertisements for air-cleaning devices have confused rather than clarified the options available to us; some are actually harmful (yet still on the market!) while others are highly effective.

Hypersensitivity Pneumonitis

In addition to bird owners, people involved farming and certain other occupations frequently inhale substances that are harmful to the respiratory system. A slew of common names has arisen, including Mushroom Picker’s Disease, Farmer’s Lung and Air-Conditioner Lung.

Among those working with birds, Hypersensitivity Pneumonitis is most commonly seen where large collections are housed indoors with poor ventilation, or where aviaries are not cleaned on a regular basis. However, a single bird or cage can initiate health problems, especially in those who are sensitive or are afflicted with asthma.

Cockatoos and other species that produce a great deal of dander are of special concern. In addition to the fine powder these birds produce, dust from dried feces, feathers and nesting material, along with molds and fungi (please see photo), can cause lung damage. I know of several zoo-workers who have become sensitized to the dust generated by cricket colonies (raised for feeding birds); I myself now sneeze violently when near crickets in a confined area.

Acute and Chronic Forms

Acute Hypersensitivity Pneumonitis results from a single exposure to a large amount of dust or dander. A cough and flue-like symptoms, including fever, usually manifest within several hours of the incident.

Chronic Hypersensitivity Pneumonitis occurs in response to repeated, long-term inhalation of irritating particles. Over time, less and less exposure is needed to trigger injury. Permanent scarring of the lungs, known as Pulmonary Fibrosis, and other serious damage to the respiratory system may result.

Ionizers and Ozone Generators

Although marketed as being able to “scrub the air”, these appliances do not remove airborne dust to a significant degree. Both generate ozone, an unstable oxygen molecule (O3).

Ozone is an effective germicide and has a number of legitimate uses, including the treatment of waste water and exhaust gasses. However, both the Environmental Protection Agency and the American Lung Association caution against the indoor use of ozone-generating devices. In relatively small amounts, ozone has been shown to trigger asthma attacks and to reduce lung elasticity and the immune system’s ability to fight respiratory infections. Aviculturists have also linked individual and group bird deaths to ozone.

Air Purifiers

High Efficiency Particle Arresting (HEPA) Air Purifiers are the best option for protecting the lungs of both bird and bird owner. “HEPA” is a government-established standard. In order to be so rated, the unit must remove 99.97% of those airborne particles that exceed 3 microns in size. The dander and dust typically associated with birds and other pets will be captured by a HEPA air purifier.

Many air purifiers also utilize activated carbon to remove fumes and chemicals from the air. The fumes generated by household cleaners, burning Teflon (used to coat cookware) and similar sources are unhealthy for people and birds alike.

Please see the article below to learn more about specific HEPA Air Purifiers.

Please also post your questions and comments here…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Parrots and Loose Women – Zoo’s African Gray Parrots Enjoy Talk Show

findiviglio — Thu, 28 Apr 2011 15:40:08 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. I recently wrote on the topic of educational TV shows for parrot owners (please see article below); now it seems that parrots themselves are joining the ranks of avid TV viewers. The staff at Folly Farm Adventure Park, a zoo in Wales, has come up with a unique way to keep their parrots occupied…and the parrots have a lot to “say” about their efforts.

Why a TV?

The group of African Gray Parrots at Folly Farm is kept busy by keepers who interact with them on a regular basis, and are also supplied with climbing and foraging opportunities and other time-tested enrichment activities. The staff was concerned, however, that the parrots might be bored when there were no keepers on site. As an experiment, a 32 inch flat screen TV was installed in the parrots’ exhibit, and the birds’ reactions were observed.

The Parrots Respond

The parrots paid a great deal of attention to the TV, and soon began mimicking rainforest and bird sounds on nature oriented shows. This seemed to make sense, but the birds then surprised their keepers by becoming very excited when Loose Women, a lunchtime talk show, was aired. Some folks were not surprised, however – according to one commenter, the show itself featured a great deal of “chattering”, and so would be a natural for the noisy birds!

Folly Farm’s African Gray Parrots have also taken to mimicking the “beep-beep” make by delivery trucks operating in reverse. Their skilled impressions never fail to draw a few keepers to the loading dock in anticipation of a food delivery!

Music and TV for other Zoo Animals

I’ve used classical radio stations to block out sudden sounds that might disturb especially sensitive zoo animals. In the case of confiscated Palm Cockatoos and a colony of Naked Mole Rats, the strategy worked well.

My only TV-animal experience dates back many years, when I was working with Gorillas. Our females, unschooled in the ways of motherhood, consistently failed to properly nurse their young. Movies showing “good Gorilla mothers” were shown, but the experiment failed miserably…from what I have seen, parrots would have learned whatever they saw on TV!

Suggest Shows for Folly Farm’s Parrots

Click here to suggest programs that Folly Farm’s parrots might enjoy. Recent entries (not by yours truly!) have included Feather Say Feather Again, Cockatoo Kill a Mockingbird and Parrots of the Caribbean.

Parrot Health – Obesity and Related Nutritional Problems

findiviglio — Thu, 21 Apr 2011 17:20:23 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Avian veterinarians report that obesity, and related health concerns such as atherosclerosis, fatty liver and hernias, are now among the most common maladies exhibited by the parrots under their care. The problem is approaching epidemic proportions.

Obesity in Parrots

Much of what we know concerning obesity in parrots parallels what we have learned about the same condition in people, and leads to similar health concerns. When lab tests are run on overweight parrots, a condition known as Hyperlipidemia – high levels of fat in the blood – is usually diagnosed.

As in people, the fats involved, cholesterol and high density lipoproteins, and their effects on cardiac health, are similar. The harmful fats stick to the lining of the blood vessels, thereby increasing blood pressure and placing a strain on the heart. In time, pieces of hardened fat may break off and be carried to the heart or brain, where, again as with people, they cause strokes or death.

Related Health Concerns

Obese parrots are often afflicted with Fatty Liver Disease, or Hepatic Lipidosis. Liver cells become filled with fats and are not able to perform their usual functions; the cells die and scar tissue forms. Milk Thistle has shown some promise in the treatment of Fatty Liver Disease…please see article below.

Despite taking in too many calories, overweight parrots may suffer from malnutrition. This is especially so for those birds which eat only a few favored food items (i.e. sunflower seeds) as opposed to a balanced diet.

Lipomas (fatty masses) and hernias often manifest in obese parrots, and problems such as joint strain and bumblefoot may arise due to the extra stress being placed on the legs and feet.

How Does Obesity Develop?

Simply put, the problem usually arises from too much food, the wrong types of food, and a lack of exercise (thyroid and other problems can also be involved, so a vet exam is essential before formulating a treatment plan).

In the wild, parrots spend most of their day actively foraging for food, and go through times when certain foods are unavailable. Most pets can meet their daily nutritional needs by spending a few minutes at the food cup. Always encourage your parrot to search for food – hiding food, using foraging toys, and providing whole foods that must be manipulated are all useful techniques.

Seed-only diets are often criticized as promoting obesity and malnutrition, but again a detailed study of your bird’s natural foods is needed before proper captive diet can be planned. Certainly, balanced pellet-based diets have their place, as do nuts, seeds, fruits and other foods, depending upon the species.

Different Parrots, Different Rules

It is important to understand that there is no single fail-safe formula where parrots are concerned. Certain species thrive on very high fat diets, and need such in captivity. Others are adapted to foods that are relatively low in nutrients, and cannot handle fatty seeds and high calorie foods on a regular basis. Amazons, Budgerigars, Quaker Parrots and Cockatoos are often cited as being especially prone to obesity, but studies are lacking.

Animals that have evolved in habitats where food availability fluctuates wildly are often able to gorge themselves and add weight rapidly in times of plenty. I have found this to apply to creatures as diverse as Orangutans, Cockatiels and African Bullfrogs, and scores of others. Certain cockatoos and many other parrots are native to such environments, and therefore their food intake must be watched very closely…many seem willing to eat as long as food is available, irrespective of hunger. This is a useful survival mechanism in the wild, but backfires when food shortages are no longer a fact of life.

Be sure to carefully research your bird’s natural history, and write in if you would like diet recommendations. Commercial foods specifically formulated for individual species or groups of parrots can be very helpful when you are formulating a diet for your pet.

Determining if Your Parrot is Obese

I feel that the best way to assess your bird’s condition is to have an avian veterinarian show you how to perform a manual examination of the bird’s muscle tone and fat deposits. Many guidelines have been published, but I find them to be confusing and too general to be of much use…species and individuals vary greatly, as do conditions that may be mask weight gain or loss.

If your parrot is found to be overweight, your vet can show you how to take its weight and advise you on a weight loss program (5% monthly is often suggested as a weight loss-goal). Exercise, either via flying or walking, is critical, and should be part of any weight loss plan.

Money Saving Tips for Owners of Parrots, Finches and other Birds

findiviglio — Tue, 12 Apr 2011 14:46:33 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Bird-keeping is a most enjoyable hobby, and becomes a passion for many, but there’s no denying that expenses can add up. Following are some simple ways to cut costs.

Cage and Furnishings

Your bird’s home is likely to be your biggest one-time cash outlay. A number of beautiful cages and outdoor aviaries are available, but building your own cage, or hiring someone to do so, may be a cheaper option. Creating a bird room within your home might also save money, especially for those who keep large parrots, macaws or colony-dwelling doves and finches.

Well-washed fruit tree branches make excellent substitutes for commercial perches, especially for those parrots that destroy any and all wood within reach. Another benefit of using natural perches is that you can easily provide your bird with a variety of perch widths and textures; this will help keep the feet in good shape. Avoid collecting branches from areas sprayed with pesticides.

Food

Many finches and softbills do best when regularly supplied with insects; large quantities are essential for most species during the breeding season. Collecting insects will provide important dietary variety at little or no cost (please see article below).

Also consider setting up a mealworm colony…not only can you breed all the grubs you’ll need, but you’ll also be able to select newly-molted individuals and the pupae, which are more nutritious than other lifer stages. A colony will also ensure a supply of tiny mealworms for small species and nestlings.

Gardening for birds is enjoyable and cost-effective, and will allow you to provide your pets with important nutrients that are otherwise hard to find. Consider also sprouting seeds at home.

Toys

From pine cones to piles of dead leaves, nature provides an infinite variety of materials that can be used to keep your pets active and interested in their environments. You can also use a variety of free and inexpensive items to create your own toys (please see video below).

Heat

Heating your bird’s cage or room may, in some cases, be more effective and less expensive than warming the entire house or apartment. This is especially true for those who keep cold sensitive species in regions experiencing severe winter weather. Please see the article below for some useful ideas and products.

Full Spectrum Light

UVA and UVB radiation seem to play an important role in bird health and breeding success, and in encouraging natural behaviors. Full spectrum bulbs designed specifically for birds are available, but nothing beats exposure to natural sunlight (take precautions, of course, to ensure your pet’s safety). Glass and plastic filter-out beneficial UV rays, so you’ll need to keep your bird outdoors or in a screened sun room when utilizing natural sunlight.

Simple, Effective Ways to Heat your Bird’s Cage or Bird Room

findiviglio — Fri, 11 Mar 2011 14:25:39 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. This winter’s severe weather has many bird owners re-thinking the ways in which they provide heat to their pets (and to themselves!). Late winter, spring and autumn can be even trickier than mid-winter, as warm days and frigid nights often arrive back-to-back.

Note: be sure to check with an electrician before adding any heating elements to your home, and to follow the manufacture’s directions carefully. When using heat bulbs, be aware that household fixtures may not be suitable – most require the use of a ceramic fixture.

Oil-Filled Radiators

One of the best options for heating entire rooms is the oil-filled radiator. I have used these with great success in bird and reptile holding rooms in several zoos, as well as at home.

Oil-filled radiators provide even heat throughout the entire room, so that extra-hot or cool spots are eliminated. They are especially useful for those keeping several birds, as the need for individual bulbs and fixtures for each cage is eliminated. I have also relied upon oil-filled radiators when living in especially cold or drafty homes, as operating one was less expensive, and more effective, than heating the entire house.

I’ve not compared the various brands, but have found DeLonghi Oil-Filled Radiators to meet my needs admirably. I especially like the fact that their thermostats, once set, maintain temperature without further adjustment.

Incandescent Heat Bulbs

Heat-producing bulbs are generally associated with reptile care, but they are widely used in zoos to provide a warm spot for birds. While they can heat entire cages, their main value lies in their ability to provide a warm “basking site”.

As most birds are kept in open-barred cages, incandescent bulbs are perfect for providing some additional warmth without over-heating the entire enclosure (as can happen in glass aquariums housing reptiles). They are also useful for sick or newly-fledged birds. Several models provide UVA light, which has been shown to be of value to many species, as well as heat.

Red or black night-viewing bulbs, also marketed primarily for reptiles, are useful at night, or in situations where additional daytime illumination is not needed; birds do not sense the light they emit and hence will not be disturbed while sleeping.

Ceramic Heat Emitters

Infra-red ceramic heaters, available in 40-250 watt strengths, provide warmth without light and so can be used by day and night.

In my experience, ceramic heaters spread heat over a wider area than do incandescent heat bulbs, but do not provide the room-wide coverage that is possible with oil-filled radiators.

Full Spectrum Lighting

Light is important to birds for reasons other than heat generation. More and more studies are showing that UVA and UVB radiation helps maintain strong immune systems, and encourages natural activity levels and breeding. Full spectrum bulbs designed especially for birds are now readily available; please see the article below for further information.

Advanced Parrot Enrichment – a Bird-Controlled Computer Game and Robot!

findiviglio — Thu, 20 Jan 2011 16:05:57 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. From Budgies to Scarlet Macaws, parrots must be provided with interesting environments if they are to remain healthy, and their owners sane (bored parrots may scream, pluck their feathers, etc.). Indeed, behavioral enrichment (basically, “keeping animals busy”) is now mandated for parrots by most reputable zoos. Thousands of useful ideas and products help to serve this cause, but few have gone as far as a parrot computer game first conceived at New York’s Binghamton University.

A New Frontier in Pet Enrichment

Researchers studying animal communication came up with the idea for a game-based tool that might be used to explore parrot learning abilities. The idea won first prize in a contest sponsored by a company that creates prototypes for inventors, and is now a reality.

The program is quite ambitious. Several types of games with varying levels of difficulty are featured – parrots can make objects move, cause a song to be played, draw, participate in word games and move a ball so that it hits a food target. The computer responds only to bird vocalizations, not to pecking or biting (no computer would last very long if parrots had to physically manipulate it!).

Depending upon the game in use, the computer generates audio and/or visual responses, and a wired-in robot wired dispenses treats when the parrot behaves appropriately.

Potential Risks and Benefits

One reviewer expressed fears that parrots might become addicted to the games (or to training for the Parrot World Computer Game Championships!), and that the computer might alienate birds from their owners, much as sometimes happens among people. But the concept is far-sighted experiment, and I believe worthy of further investigation. If all is arranged just so, it might even be possible for caged parrots to “work on the computer” while their owners are away.

I’ve observed Chimpanzees, Blue Jays, Crows and other creatures learn by watching others…certainly most parrots are up to the task of learning from a computer (far more so than I, as my long-suffering co-workers at ThatPetPlace will attest!).

For the Non-Computer-Savvy Parrot or Owner

Don’t worry that your bird will “lag behind the others” if you’re not quite ready to provide it with a computer and robot…please see the article below for other ideas.

A number of parrot toys, especially those designed to encourage problem solving, are also very useful enrichment and learning tools.

That Bird Blog » bird health

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