Simulating Seasonal Changes

Birds housed outdoors are often stimulated to come into breeding condition by natural fluctuations in temperature, humidity and day length.  While seasonal changes will exert some effect on indoor birds, it is important for us to step in and “help nature along” when it comes to house-bound birds. 

Researching your bird’s natural habitat, with particular attention to seasonal variations of all types, is of primary importance.  For this work, I have found books focusing on natural history, such as Mr. Forshaw’s classic Parrots of the World, to be indispensible.  Articles on captive breeding are useful, of course, but individual personality plays such a big role in captive reports that the importance of natural stimulation can be over-shadowed.

Light and Humidity

Use light timers to mimic the photoperiod that occurs in your pet’s natural habitat, and be sure to provide full spectrum lighting; bear in mind that window glass filters-out beneficial UVA and UVB radiation.

For those species that breed at the onset of the rainy season, daily misting or a timed fogger, may be helpful.

Dietary Additions and Variations

A well-balanced, varied diet is essential if your birds are to breed – in just about every animal species, reproduction is the first process to be shut down if all is not well nutritionally. 

The provision of novel foods, or of extra amounts of certain foods, may also be important in bringing parrots in to breeding condition.  In nature, the onset of the nesting season often brings with it an abundance of foods not available at other times of the year.  Insects, flowers, nectar, shoots, certain fruits and others can be used to promote breeding readiness in captivity.  Again, the key lies in a thorough knowledge of your bird’s natural history.

The Cage

Choose the largest cage possible for your potential breeders.  African Gray Parrots, Red-Shouldered Macaws and similarly-sized birds have been bred in cages measuring 4’ x 4’ x 3’, but more is better – building your own cage may allow you to maximize the available space.

Many successful indoor breeders suspend their cages from the ceiling with heavy-duty lamp chains.  If you are as “unhandy” as I, hire an expert – in addition to the dangers involved, nothing so dampens a parrot’s ardor as does having its world crash to the ground!

Solitude and Security

The breeding cage should be located in a quiet room, even if the birds are used to disturbances.  Personalities often change dramatically during the breeding season – few birds will nest if the site is not secure. 

Gauze drapes or shower curtains hung near the cage can be useful in screening the area, and quiet music will drown out disturbing noises.  Sounds of other birds – even former “friends” – can upset a breeding pair.

It’s a good idea to whistle each time you approach the room, so as to avoid surprising the birds.  This should be done even for well-habituated pets.

Further Reading

Breeding Eclectus Parrots  

Conditioning Parrots for Breeding  

Video: African Gray Parrots in Nest Box  

Please write in with your questions and comments. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

 
Green Senegal Parrots image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by ThomHasi
Red-shouldered Macaw image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by T J Lin

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Breeding Large Parrots in Indoor Cages – Tricky but Possible

Drab Plumage…No Problem!

Working with wild House Finches in Arizona, ornithologists from Cornell University and the University of Arizona determined that females preferred brightly-colored (red) males to duller, orange/yellow individuals (American Naturalist, September, 2010).  The somberly-colored males, however, were not so easily put off.  It seems that, in order to compete with “handsome” males, they become more sociable – “friendlier”, if you will – and in that way attract the attention of the otherwise uninterested females. 

In fact, dull-colored males were 4 times as likely to join up with and participate in multiple social groups, or flocks, than were the more brightly colored males (who, it seemed, merely had to sit about and wait for females to come to them!).  By moving from flock to flock, the dull males placed themselves in situations that increased their chances of meeting a potential mate.  By the end of the mating season, the dull males had achieved the same rate of breeding success as had the colorful males – they just had to work harder at it.

Whether or not the duller males’ “sociable personalities” helped sway the females’ decisions was not determined, but it is tempting to speculate…

Applying the Research

This study is not merely an amusing bit of information…I learned, from long experience with endangered birds in zoos, that mate selection is often a critical factor in a breeding program’s success.  Especially we have only a few individuals to work with, knowing as much as possible concerning what constitutes an “ideal mate” is vital. 

The House Finch is closely related to both commonly-kept pets and highly endangered species, and so much of what we learn about it may have wide applicability. 

Please write in with your questions and comments. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

 
Male House Finch image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Kevin Cole

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Personality or Appearance – Which Matters Most When Birds Seek Mates?

Social Behavior in General

The majority of pet trade birds are highly social creatures.  Although they may squabble during the breeding season, the presence of flock-mates is a strong breeding stimulus.  Indeed, many aviculturists cite the absence of additional individuals as the main reason for breeding failures among well-bonded pairs.

Even reliable captive breeders such as Budgerigars may not reproduce if held in single pairs.  The addition of another pair, or even housing the pair within sight or hearing of others of their kind, often spurs nesting.

Aggression (Adults)

Despite the fact that group situations may encourage breeding, we must also bear in mind that birds living together form themselves into cohesive flocks.  Newly introduced individuals, even those suitable as mates for unpaired birds in the flock, may be attacked, especially during the breeding season.

Oddly enough, larger flocks are often more peaceful than small groups (a rule that I’ve found applicable to creatures ranging from fishes to baboons!).  Aggression tends to be meted out among several as opposed to 1 individual, and non-target birds often “get involved” and divert aggressors’ attentions.

Aggression (Chicks)

In most cases, youngsters should be removed from their parent’s cage once they are feeding on their own.  Otherwise, they may interfere with the rearing of later broods, or may be attacked by the male (monk parrots and other colonial nesting species are often exceptions). 

Usually, smaller, short-lived species (lovebirds, parrotlets), and those that inhabit harsh environments (grass parakeets) are likely to attack newly-fledged youngsters   Such birds are evolutionarily adapted to reproduce often, or to be ready as soon as the unpredictable rains arrive, and so are usually eager to re-nest.  However, despite being opportunistic breeders, budgerigars and cockatiels are often tolerant of fledglings.

Macaws and Other Long-Lived Birds

Large, long-lived parrots usually raise only a few chicks each season, and may not breed every year.  Unlike the species described above, most inhabit environments that offer predictable weather patterns and food sources, and so they can “afford” to spend a great deal of time in imparting survival skills to their young.  Macaws, African Gray Parrots and similar species are, therefore, usually quite tolerant of their youngsters long after they have left the nest. 

Mate Choice

Birds can be quite choosy (maddeningly so!) when it comes to mate selection.  This is especially true for macaws, Amazons, African Grays and other long-lived parrots.  Their pair bonds span many decades, so it behooves them to “get it right” the first time (I’ll avoid here the obvious parallels one could draw regarding our own species!).  If you are intent on breeding, it would be prudent to purchase a bonded pair or individuals that mutually groom and spend time near each other.

Some species deviate from the usual “parrot pair model”.  Certain Australian Parakeets, for example, have “difficult” relationships outside of the breeding season…they remain as a pair, but the females become somewhat aggressive towards the males.  In the close confines of captivity, they can make life quite miserable for their unfortunate mates.  As always, research your pet’s natural history thoroughly.

Further Reading

To read about what behaviors to expect as spring returns, please see Spring’s Effect of Parrots and Other Birds.

Please write in with your questions and comments. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Hyacinth Macaw image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Snowmanradio
Macaws, Amazons and Conures in Ecuador image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Hjallig

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Bird Reproduction – How Natural Social Behaviors Affect Captive Breeding

Cage Size…an Alternative View

Rather than using your pet’s size as a factor in cage choice, I propose instead that you carefully consider its habits and natural history. For example, finches do not climb about as do parrots, and hence cages offer to them much less “useable space”. Whereas a parrot might clamber over every inch of its home – roof included – finches use mainly flying and ground space.

Also, finches explore and will utilize toys, but not to the extent seen in most parrots. They spend more time foraging and otherwise moving about, and hence have little to “occupy themselves” in a small cage… space therefore is key to their well-being.

Then too, many finches tend to be high strung, and are ill at ease when closely confined. It is very hard to hand-tame finches, or to induce breeding in tight quarters. As most finches are not given outside flight time, cage size and complexity are important factors in their husbandry.

A Finch Mansion

At just over 5 feet x 2 feet x 5 feet, the A&E Double Flight Bird Cage is the ultimate in luxury housing for finches. Available in 6 colors, it can also be divided to allow for introductions or when separate facilities are otherwise needed.

The .5 inch bar spacing renders this cage ideal for even the smallest of finches, but its design also permits the accommodation of cockatiels, parrotlets, lovebirds and parakeets.

Large Finches and Mixed Species Groups

The Double Flight Cage is an excellent choice for those seeking to provide finches of any kind with additional room, and is perfect for housing larger species such as Gouldian finches, bull finches and Java rice birds.

You can also use this cage to create a striking mixed-species display for compatible birds such as cordon bleus, golden-breasts and painted finches.

Nesting and Breeding

Additional space always improves ones chances of breeding captive birds. Ample room is particularly important for shy finches, and for those that become lethargic in small cages and reproduce most reliably in group situations (i.e. yellow-rumped and gray-headed munias).

For many of the more sensitive finches, a large flight cage is the only reasonable alternative to an outdoor aviary if breeding efforts are to be successful.

The Double Flight Cage is equipped with 2 doors that allow for the installation of nest boxes. Nesting sites so situated are outside of the cage and therefore will not restrict available flight space.

My most memorable observations of captive finches have taken place before large cages and outdoor aviaries. If you are serious about your birds, please consider providing them with as much space as possible.

Next time we’ll take a look at some other favorable aspects of finch flight cages. Until then, please write in with your questions and comments. Thanks, Frank Indiviglio.

Further Reading

Working with mixed species collections is a favorite pastime of mine, and one that hooks most who give it a try. Click here for more information concerning finch species that forage together in the wild.

Image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Jason L. Buberel.

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The A&E Double Flight Cage: How Much Room Does a Finch Need? Part I

Oxford University researchers played recorded calls of antbird pairs to other pairs resident in a specific territory.  The resident pair responded as expected – male and female sang together in a vigorous display of unity, showing their willingness to defend their home. 

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Breeding Birds Use Song to Defend Territory and Discourage Mate Infidelity

Breeding can be a quite complicated affair among birds, with nest site selection being of key importance in the process.  Sometimes, the mere presence of an appropriate nesting place helps to bring birds into breeding condition.  Conversely, a mated pair of birds may not reproduce if a favorable nest site is lacking.  While some species will modify a nest box or site, others will not – an entrance hole that is too large, for example, may doom your breeding efforts to failure.

All of the nests and nest boxes mentioned below have been carefully designed so as to meet the needs of a wide variety of birds.  Selecting the model appropriate to the types of birds that you keep is the first step in becoming a successful breeder.

Encouraging Breeding Behavior

As mentioned, the introduction of a nest box or site may bring about an immediate breeding response in some species.  This is most commonly seen among birds that, because they live in areas with harsh, unpredictable climates, must be ready to breed as soon as favorable conditions present themselves.  The cockatiel and budgerigar utilize this breeding strategy. 

Humidity and Growing Plants

An increase in humidity, simulated by a room humidifier, mist bottle or hose, is a breeding key for many birds.  As the rainy season in nature usually brings with it a resurgence of plant growth, providing sprouting greens (using, for example, the VitaKraft Sprout Pot) as you increase humidity is always a good idea.

Insect Food

Increasing the number of insects offered to finches and other softbills is a time-tested technique for bringing birds into breeding readiness.  Novel insect foods, such as may appear at the beginning of the breeding season in nature, are, in my experience, particularly effective.  In zoo collections and at home I have found it useful to add wild-caught insects to my birds’ diets at nesting time. 

The Zoo Med Bug Napper is a wonderfully suited to this purpose.  I also suggest that you experiment with commercial species other than crickets and mealworms, such as canned grasshoppers and silkworms and live waxworms, roaches and earthworms. 

Light Quality and Cycle

It is becoming increasingly apparent that full spectrum light in general, and Ultraviolet A light in particular, is a vital stimulus to normal behavior, including reproduction, in birds (and many other creatures).  Always equip your bird’s cage or room with a full spectrum bulb designed specifically for birds, such as the Zoo Med Avian Sun UVB Bulb.

Manipulating the length of your pet’s day/night cycle, in accordance with that of its natural habitat if possible, is also desirable, or even necessary for some species.

Nests for Smaller Birds

Small, enclosed nest sites such as A&E Hanging Finch Nest with Leaves and Finch Nest in a House with Leaves are ideal for finches that naturally lay their eggs within tree cavities.  Included among these are zebra finches and the various nuns and waxbills.  Particularly choosy individuals may prefer with a piece of rolled cork bark over a traditional nesting hollow.

Canaries, cordon blues and green singing fiches will readily occupy open nests.  For these and similar birds, choose the A&E Small Natural Open Finch Nest or Pet’s International Stick Nature Nest.

Larger tree-hole nesters, such as budgerigars and lovebirds, should be provided with the Hagen Parakeet and Lovebird Breeding Nest Box.

Nesting Material

A ready supply of the proper nesting material is an important factor in any breeding program.  Some birds are particularly choosy in this regard, either on an individual or species basis.  Certain species of hummingbird, for example, are most successful in constructing their walnut-sized nests when provided with mosses and lichens…even spider webs, much favored by free-living hummers, have their place as nesting material in zoo programs.

If your birds will not nest and all else seems in order, try adding a variety of nesting material…as with the sudden appearance of novel insect food, this can be a powerful breeding stimulus.

Eight-in-One Bird Nesting Hair and String fits the needs of most commonly-kept softbills.

Experimental Nesting Materials

Don’t hesitate to experiment, and to consider products originally designed for pets other than birds. 

Some lovebirds add bark to their nests in the wild…for these you might try R-Zilla Douglas Fir Bark (marketed for reptiles).  Most softbills will use at least some dry grass when constructing their nests – L&M Animal Super Alfalfa Bits (marketed for rabbits and other small animals) is popular with many birds (in zoos, birds of all types raid the alfalfa bails set out for deer and antelope).  Small wild birds of many species utilize moss as a nest-lining.  Most softbills and some lovebirds will appreciate R-Zilla Beaked Moss Bedding or Hagen Forest Plume Moss (marketed for amphibians).

 Please write in with your own ideas and questions.  Thanks, until next time, Frank Indiviglio.

 I have some written related articles that may interest you.  Please check out the following:

Feeding Insects to Pet Birds: Useful Products Designed for Reptiles

Product Review: Vitakraft’s Sprout Pot:  a Convenient Method of Supplying Your  Birds with Valuable Nutrients

Providing the Proper Type and Amount of Light to Pet Birds        

Lighting for Your Pet Bird:  the Importance of the Photoperiod

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Nests, Nest Boxes and Nesting Materials for Your Budgerigars, Finches, Canaries or Lovebirds

As in most animals, male zebra finches utilize the hormone testosterone to help develop secondary sexual characteristics, such as their bright red bills. However, this comes at a cost, as testosterone has also been shown to weaken the immune system.

Carotenoids – compounds that impart yellow and orange colors to carrots and other foods – also help male finches to maintain their bright colors and, as a consequence, to attract females. The finches obtain carotenoids from their diet.

Recently, researchers at Arizona State University have shown that, in addition to imparting color, carotenoids also combat the negative influences of testosterone in zebra finches. Males deficient in carotenoids suffer depressed immune systems, while those with a sufficient intake benefit from testosterone by becoming more attractive to female finches.

This information reinforces the importance of a providing our birds with a well-balanced diet, and may have implications for human health as well. I suggest feeding your zebra finches a variety of nutritious foods, including such important basics as Goldenfeast Australian Blend Bird Food / Tropic Fruit Pudding and ZuPreem Fruit Blend, to assure a sufficient intake of carotenoids and other nutrients.

Thanks, please be sure to write in with your questions and comments. Until next time, Frank.

Interesting research concerning the effect of diet on zebra finch reproduction is posted at:
http://www.pubmedcentral.nih.gov/picrender.fcgi?artid=1810080&blobtype=pdf

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Zebra Finch, Taeniopygia guttata, Nutrition – the role of carotenoids and testosterone