That Bird Blog » General Bird Care

Breeding and Keeping the Nonpareil Finch or Pin-Tailed Parrot Finch

findiviglio — Thu, 28 Feb 2013 20:12:28 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. When translated to English, the French language name for this little finch – Nonpareil – means “without equal”. The name suits the gorgeous bird perfectly…so much so that aviculturists of all nationalities have adopted it. Also known as the Pin-Tailed Parrot Finch (Erythrura prasina), the brilliantly-colored Nonpareil has long been among the most desired of all Southeast Asian finches.

My first experience with these beauties came while working for a bird importer. I was captivated by their colors, but despaired over the stress caused them by shipment and confinement to quarantine facilities. Fortunately, an experienced private breeder helped me to learn the keys to keeping them alive and well.

Description

The 5.5 inch-long male Nonpareils are clad in “grass green”, bright red and brilliant blue, and sport elongated central tail feathers. Females have shorter tails and are not as gaudy, but are also quite colorful. While most related parrot finches are attractive (please see photos), none are as spectacular as the Nonpareil.

Yellow-bellied individuals are found in some wild populations, but are not common in captivity. Birds originating from Borneo have more blue in the plumage, and are considered by most to be a subspecies. Although few aviculturists see any need to experiment with color mutations, largely-green and pied strains have been established.

Range and Habitat

Nonpareils range from Myanmar through Thailand, Malaysia, Borneo, Sumatra and Java.

Habitat preferences are not well-studied, but they are most often observed along moist forest fringes and in bamboo thickets, brushy river edges and overgrown areas near rice farms.

Keeping Nonpareils

Nonpareils are notoriously shy and a bit high-strung, but when properly housed are quite hardy, and a delight to observe. They do well in colonies, and most successful breeders report they are best kept in this manner.

If confined to small cages or denied cover and visual barriers, Nonpareils will not thrive. When startled, they may fly into cage walls and become injured, especially if their enclosure is not correctly set-up.

Enclosure

Nonpareils forage almost entirely above-ground, and are not comfortable when forced to feed on the cage floor. They must be supplied with elevated shelves and perches. Tiny forest-dwellers are on the menu of myriad predators, so Nonpareils are consequently very ill-at-ease in open situations. Dried or live grass clumps, hanging potted plants and bushes should be always be positioned about the aviary to prevent their becoming stressed.

The need for security and ample cover is one of the most important considerations in the husbandry of Nonpareils. While aviary-style indoor cages may work if one takes great care, outdoor aviaries or homemade indoor cages are the best options. Please see this site for an example of a well-planned indoor aviary.

Nonpareils, even those well-habituated to captivity, tend to hide when their enclosure is approached. Allowing them to remain out-of-sight when necessary will encourage a sense of security that will translate into healthier pets.

It is important to avoid startling Nonpareils – i.e. by suddenly illuminating a dark room – as they may explode into flight and injure themselves.

Light, Heat and Humidity

Full spectrum light, while not essential, may encourage breeding and other natural behaviors in Nonpareils that are housed indoors.

Native to warm, moist habitats, Nonpareils be kept at temperatures of 72-76 F and a humidity range of 50-60%. Temperatures to 90 F, and quite humid conditions, have been successfully used by some keepers.

Diet

Grass seeds form the bulk of the diet in the wild. Pets do well on a high quality finch seed mix, to which has been added extra canary grass seed and Japanese and white millet. Paddy rice (unprocessed rice with the kernel-covering intact) is a great favorite, and in the past was often used to induce newly-imported birds to feed.

A bit of egg food should be offered each day, with the quantity increasing when breeding behavior is exhibited. Small amounts of kale, watercress, sprouted seeds and other greens should be provided twice weekly. Live insects are usually ignored, even by breeding pairs.

Grit and both crushed and whole cuttlebone should always be available.

Most Nonpareils accept only a rather limited number of food items. To ensure against nutritional deficiencies, vitamin/mineral supplements should be provided (please write in for specific information).

Breeding

Breeding results vary, as do the observations made by those who have been successful. Colony members seem to come into breeding condition more frequently than do single pairs; squabbles among males are rarely if ever serious. Breeding activity may vary greatly from year to year, despite similar captive conditions. Two molts occur each year; the failure of potential pairs to synchronize their molts is believed by some to interfere with successful reproduction.

The woven, enclosed grass or coco-fiber nest will be constructed in a basket, finch box, thick shrub or other protected space. The 2-6 eggs are incubated by both parents for 13 – 15 days. Soaked seeds, sprouts, additional egg food and chopped greens should be provided to the parents once the young hatch.

The chicks fledge in approximately 21-23 days, and are fed by their parents for an additional week or so. Adult plumage usually appears when they reach 8 months of age.

Parents that are disturbed may abandon their nests. Nonpareil chicks have been successfully fostered by Bengalese Finches.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Blue-Crowned Conures in the Wild – the Natural History of a Popular Pet

findiviglio — Fri, 21 Sep 2012 14:19:20 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. The Blue-Crowned Conure (a/k/a Blue-Crowned Parakeet, Sharp-Tailed Conure, Aratinga acuticaudata) has always had fans among parrot enthusiasts, but its popularity exploded in 1998 with the release of Paulie, a movie that featured one as the main “actor”. More recently, The Wild Parrots of Telegraph Hill, a documentary, also highlighted this species. Unfortunately, this type of publicity is not always ideal, as pets are often purchased for the wrong reasons (owl sales soared in some places after Harry Potter was released!). Blue-Crowned Conures are little studied in the wild. I’ve had the good fortune of observing both free-living and captive individuals, and today will focus on their natural history, and summarize their care needs.

Description

At 14.5 inches in length, the Blue-Crowned Conure is one of the largest species in the genus Aratinga. In common with other conures, it sports a heavy bill and long, tapered tail, but the sky to dark blue coloration on the crown and cheeks is unique. Various shades of green color the body plumage, while the undersides of the tail feathers are reddish-brown and tipped with yellow. All-in-all, it is a very attractive parrot.

Range

The range extends from northern Venezuela and eastern Columbia south through Paraguay and Uruguay to northern Argentina.

Five subspecies, differing somewhat in coloration and size, have been described. While working in Venezuela, I had a chance to observe A. a. neoxina in riverside thickets and even well out into the llanos. On nearby Margarita Island, I caught a glimpse of several of the few individuals that manage to survive there.

Feral populations are established in Florida and southern California, USA.

Habitat

The Blue-Crowned Conure is adapted to arid habitats, and may travel extensively when pressured by the lack of food and water. It is most often associated with deciduous forests, but also frequents riverside scrub, wooded grasslands, farms and city outskirts. In Bolivia, desert fringes are occupied (a relative, the Cactus Conure, A. cactorum, is a true desert bird; please see article below).

Conservation

The Margarita Island population, threatened by rat predation, habitat loss and collection, is believed to number less than 200 individuals. Other populations have not been well-studied.

In some regions, Blue-Crowned Conures are considered to be crop pests, while elsewhere they are valued for consuming weed seeds. The species is listed on Appendix II of Cites.

Ecology

Adaptability has likely assisted the Blue-Crowned Conure in surviving where related parrots have disappeared. It forages on the ground or in trees, taking a wide variety of seeds, tree and cactus fruits, berries, and some insects. Where roosting trees are scarce, Blue-Crowns pass the night in shallow caves.

Outside of the breeding season, flocks of up to 200 individuals form, sometimes in association with White-Eyed, Mitred and other Conures.

Breeding

The breeding season extends from September to February. The 2-3 eggs are deposited in a tree hollow and incubated for 22-25 days. The chicks fledge in approximately 8 weeks, and are fed by the male alone for some time thereafter. Two (rarely three) clutches are produced annually.

Vocalizations

Field studies (please see article below) have revealed that this species utilizes 8 distinct vocalizations, and variations of each, to communicate with others.

The two alarm calls provide flock members with information concerning predators’ location and distance, and may also identify the type of threat (i.e. hawk vs. snake). Other vocalizations call the group together, with variations being utilized when flock-mates are in or out of view. Coordination of flight direction and mate-contact are also accomplished via unique calls. I’m sure that further research will reveal an even more sophisticated communication system.

Blue-Crowned Conures as Pets

Most conures have great pet potential, and the Blue Crowned is no exception; please see this article for a description of popular species. Many conure specialists consider the Blue Crown to be the friendliest and most intelligent of all. It is also a better mimic than its relatives, but cannot be considered especially “gifted” in this regard. Hybrids with other species, such as the Golden-Crowned Conure, have been produced.

Prospective owners should bear in mind that, despite their small size, Blue-Crowned Conures have very loud voices, are extremely active, and can reduce furniture to wood chips in no time flat. Like all parrots, conures need a mate or near-constant association with a favored person if they are to thrive. Please see the articles below and write in for specific care information.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Red-Billed Quelea – Captive Care of the World’s Most Numerous Bird

findiviglio — Mon, 09 Apr 2012 18:43:02 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Although attracting less attention than European Starlings and other common birds, Red-Billed Queleas (Quelea quelea) outnumber them all. Yet despite being dubbed the “Locust Bird” for its habit of moving in flocks containing millions of individuals, this attractive African weaver is surprisingly difficult to breed in captivity.

Description

Population size is not the Red-Billed Quelea’s sole unique characteristic. It is also the only bird in which males exhibit highly variable color patterns that are not designed to advertise their value as mates. In all other colorful, sexually-dimorphic species (those where males and females differ in appearance), color is used to express desirability to females (please see this Gouldian Finch article).

Some male Red-Billed Queleas vary so much from others that they appear to be of different species. The black or white facial mask is surrounded by feathers that may be colored red, orange, pink or various shades of each; the breast is often splashed with similar colors. Please see the article below for photos of several males…the effect of all this variation in a huge flock must be spectacular!

Ornithologists theorize that this characteristic may aid in individual recognition, but studies have not been conclusive; please see the article below for details.

Natural History

Queleas are classified the Family Ploceidae, which contains 4 sub-families - the True Weavers (Queleas), Buffalo Weavers, Parasitic Whydahs and Sparrows. Weavers are the avian world’s most accomplished nest-builders. Largely confined to Africa, weavers use complex knots to create enclosed nests that can only be entered from below. Positioned at the tips of tree branches, these unique nests discourage many predators.

The total Red-Billed Quelea population may approach 10 billion, with some flocks taking 5 hours to pass a single point! Amazingly, these huge aggregations move in a highly-synchronized fashion. Slow motion photography has revealed that the flock feeds in a rolling motion, and in doing so can deplete an area of seeds in short order (the video below pictures the largest gathering of birds ever caught on film).

Queleas prefer wild to cultivated plants, but are still considered to Africa’s leading grain-crop pest. The highly mobile flocks are tracked by agricultural authorities in South Africa and other countries.

Range

The Red-Billed Quelea is found throughout much of Sub-Saharan Africa, but is absent from heavily-forested and extremely arid regions. They are common in several popular wildlife reserves, including Kruger, Amboseli and Selous.

Habitat

Queleas roam widely in search of grass seeds, their primary food, and also remain within flying distance of a water source. They may be found in savannas, thorn scrub, agricultural areas and wooded and marshy grasslands.

Captive Housing

Queleas are always on the move, and, being extremely gregarious, are not at ease unless kept in groups. Consequently, despite being a mere 5 inches in length, they are best suited to life in outdoor aviaries or indoor bird rooms.

Pampas and other stout grasses and shrubs planted in their aviary will make them feel at home and provide foraging opportunities. Those originating in the southern part of the range (3 subspecies have been identified) adapt well to cool temperatures, but they need shelter from damp and drafty conditions.

Diet

A high quality finch seed mix should form the basis of their diet.

Small crickets, mealworms, waxworms and canned and wild-caught insects should be offered year-round, and are a must for pairs with chicks. In outdoor aviaries, live plants can be used to attract caterpillars, grasshoppers and other tasty treats.

Fresh sprouts and egg food should also be a regular part of your Queleas’ diet.

Breeding

Weavers construct the most elaborately-woven nests of any bird…watching the construction process was one of the great delights of my time working with birds at the Bronx Zoo. Like most of their relatives, Queleas will use only long blades of green grass as a nesting material. Furthermore, they much prefer stripping these from living plants over picking them off the floor. Taveta Golden Weavers, Red Bishops and others I have kept exploded into action when I placed freshly-dug clumps of beach grass before them, but disdained grass clippings.

Red-Billed Quelea pairs seem to exhibit mate fidelity (although I imagine it’s difficult for researchers – and perhaps the birds themselves – to keep track when 6,000 pairs are utilizing a single nesting tree!). They are stimulated to breed by rain, but also apparently need the company of others if they are to reproduce successfully.

Many other birds also refuse to reproduce unless surrounded by similarly-minded cohorts, a fact that has long thwarted captive breeding efforts. Some, such as the spectacular Cock-of-the-Rock, are known as “lek-breeders”…several males display together before a female. Spruce Grouse and others battle before waiting females to establish mating rights. Others, such as Queleas and flamingos, seem not to compete, yet will not breed in pairs or, sometimes, even small groups. I recall West Indian and Chilean Flamingos as being especially “fussy” during the breeding season. Even though I kept them in good-sixed flocks, I and my co-workers had to construct numerous mud nests before they “gave in” and began nesting themselves!

Unfortunately, aviculturists seem not to have hit on the right formula to induce regular breeding in the Red-Billed Quelea…ironic for a species whose flocks are often mistaken for smoke from massive grass fires!

Please check out my posts on Twitter http://twitter.com/#!/findiviglio and Facebook http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100000972624553. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Barbets – Stunning, Unique Aviary Birds for Experienced Keepers

findiviglio — Wed, 21 Mar 2012 15:52:59 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Barbets combine gorgeous coloration and a unique body plan. Related to woodpeckers and toucans, barbets somehow bring both to mind. I’ve always enjoyed working with them, although a “barbet incident” gave me quite a scare early-on in my career…

“Frank, your barbet is on my fence.”

Some 3 decades ago, while still a novice bird keeper at the Bronx Zoo, I was working in a huge, densely-planted exhibit that housed a pair of Fire-Tufted Barbets (Psilopogon pyrolophus) and other Asian birds. My supervisor rushed in to say that one of my barbets was perched on a fence outside the zoo director’s kitchen window (he lived on the grounds). The director, an internationally-known ornithologist, was rumored to question the curators more closely about the death of “little brown birds” than giraffes. Unlike most exhibits, that housing the barbets did not have a double door, and I had often worried about escapes. So, I thought, there goes my dream job….

The barbets took an eternity to find, but they were in the exhibit. Other keepers had been dispatched to the director’s house, but the bird flew off before they arrived. The director was not known for practical jokes or drinking to excess, so I do believe that he saw a Fire-Tufted Barbet (even though they are not often kept as pets here …).

Description

Large heads, short tails, stocky builds and thick beaks surrounded by bristles at the base have led some to describe barbets as “odd” or even “clumsy-looking”. I prefer “unique”, and in any event the brilliant colors of most make up for any lack of “grace” in their body-plans. The Toucan Barbet (Semnornis ramphastinus), for example, exhibits light and dark blue, black, yellow, copper and bright red in its plumage.

The world’s 75-85 barbet species are classified in the order Piciformes, along with toucans (their closest relatives), honey guides and woodpeckers.

Range and Habitat

Barbets reach their greatest diversity in Africa, where 42 species (Family Lybiidae) have been described. Twenty six species, belonging to the Family Magalaimidae, are found in Asia. Most of the 14 species dwelling in Central and South America (Family Capitonide) are fantastically colored. The Toucan Barbets, (Family Semnornithidae) are also native to Latin America; 2 species have been described.

Most barbets are birds of forest interiors although some, such as the Coppersmith Barbet, inhabit city parks and gardens. The call of this 6-inch-long Asian native sounds like a hammer striking metal. The Coppersmith Barbet’s habit of issuing the call 80-100 times per minute, during the hottest part of the day, has earned it the nickname “Brain Fever Bird” (see video below). Elsewhere, various birds are given similar names…I must say that one dove species did annoy me during afternoons spent working in the hot Venezuelan sun!

Barbets in Captivity

Barbets require a large, well-planted aviary, and are sensitive to cold temperatures and damp conditions. Males may attack non-receptive females, and even larger birds of other species may not be safe. They are best kept alone or in pairs, although I had no problems housing Fire-Tufted Barbets with jay thrushes, bulbuls and Argus Pheasants.

Many individuals become quite bold in time, and will approach closely when offered favored treats.

All barbets are cavity nesters, with most utilizing tree hollows. Those that nest within termite mounds or underground are said to be capable of burrowing out of an aviary – not a capability one usually associates with birds!

Bearded, Gilded, Double-Toothed, White-Headed, Crested, Yellow, D’Arnaud’s and several other species are kept in the USA; please write in for specific information.

Feeding

Although typically thought of as fruit-eaters, many barbets are skillful hunters and nest-raiders as well. I’ve observed them capture anoles, spiders and other animals that were established in their exhibits. Understanding the natural history of the barbets you keep is essential if you are to succeed.

Most fare well on a diet comprised of a wide variety of fruits, berries, figs and dates. The fruit should be coated with a mixture of Insectivorous Bird Food, Softbill Select and Egg Food. Hard boiled egg and some cooked ground beef should be offered regularly.

Crickets, mealworms and other invertebrates are essential to the health of many species, and are indispensible for pairs with chicks; many also relish chopped pink mice. I maintain insect traps, such as the Zoo Med Bug Napper, to help meet the needs of the insectivorous birds under my care. Canned Invertebrates are a convenient means of adding variety to barbet diets.

Water for bathing is a must. Food sometimes collects among the bristles at the base of the bill and must be manually removed. Be careful when doing so, as barbets are capable of inflicting serious wounds with their powerful bills.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Holiday Season Treats and Cautions for Parrot and Finch Owners

findiviglio — Fri, 16 Dec 2011 17:05:43 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Holiday visits and celebrations, pleasurable as they are, can also bring some nasty surprises to both people and pets. A bit of planning now can help make the upcoming season safe and enjoyable for you and your birds.

Stress, Noise and Late Nights

Responsible bird owners know that certain holiday treats and, of course, alcohol, are bad for birds. But many overlook the important role that sleep plays in bird health (please see article below). If you entertain late, or will be out often during the holidays, keep in mind that most birds need 10-12 hours of sleep in a dark, quiet environment. If necessary, move your pet’s cage to an area that is off-limits to guests, and shut the room lights via a timer if the rest of your house will be lit after the usual “lights-out” time. Maintaining a stable day/night cycle is good for your birds mental and physical health.

Holiday parties can mean a house stocked with loud, tipsy guests, excited children and unfamiliar dogs. Each of these “creatures” (especially, those influenced by alcohol!) may take liberties with your pets that they otherwise would not. If it will be difficult for you to monitor all that is going on, consider keeping your birds in a locked room while parties are in progress (or “raging”, as the case may be!).

I’ve worked with parrots that thrived in hectic surroundings, such as busy nature centers and classrooms, but these individuals were exceptions. In general, parrots regard strangers and unusual events as threats. It’s important to remember that, however tame they may be, parrots are not domesticated animals, and remain governed by instincts and behaviors that have evolved over many millions of years.

Canaries, Finches and other Birds

All birds are highly aware of their environments, even though most do not show this as obviously as do parrots. Wild finches, canaries, doves and softbills are on the menus of a wide array of predators, and they are, therefore, exceedingly cautious by nature. I’ve even had small birds die “of fright” in my hand…please keep the delicate natures of your smaller birds in mind as the holidays approach.

Un-caged Parrots

Parrots that adjust well to strangers, and which spend time out of their cages, face different risks than do their shyer cousins. Most of these threats are well-known, but they bear repeating. Shiny ornaments, unique foods, ribbons, toys and electric wires may all be dangerous to curious pets.

Also, think carefully before offering your parrot a taste of those special holiday foods that may come your way. Since they may not familiar to you, take time to read the list of ingredients. Some hold unpleasant surprises for birds (and us!), even if they “appear” healthful…there’s a lot more than just “fruit” in the typical holiday fruit cake, for example!

Bird-Friendly Treats

I’m not a complete Scrooge…there are many tasty, nutritious surprises that you can buy or make for your pet birds, and for wild ones that you may feed. Please see the article below for holiday snacks that are quite simple to prepare, and check out our line of treats for pet and wild birds.

Gifts for Bird Owners

Need a gift for the bird owners on your list? From simple “build your own bird toys” to extravagant, mansion-like cages, the options are limitless.

In my opinion, Joseph Forshaw’s classic Parrots of the World makes an unbeatable gift for parrot enthusiasts. Covering the natural history of every parrot species and subspecies, it goes way beyond what can be found in typical pet care books, and is an enjoyable read besides.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Winter Bird Feeding – Rare Bird Update and Some Useful Products

findiviglio — Tue, 13 Dec 2011 15:03:52 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Winter brings with it unique bird-watching opportunities, as cold weather forces otherwise-shy species to visit feeders in search of food. Rare visitors driven south by severe weather and others blown off course during migration also brighten birders’ days. Today I’d like to alert you to several new (and standard) bird feeding products, and highlight some ways to see the unusual avian visitors to your neighborhood.

Birding Surprises

Wherever you are located, winter birding is an exciting prospect. Often, unexpected birds tend to stay put for quite awhile, due to disorientation and the need to remain near a newfound food source. Checking with the many on-line and telephone services (yes, phone-based reports still exist, check here!) is a great way to remain aware of what’s going on nearby; if luck is with you, you can then go out and see the bird that has been reported.

Local birders in and around NYC have already posted sightings of Snowy Owls, Nashville Warblers, Lincoln’s Sparrows and Winter Wrens. In Los Angeles, recent notable visitors include Eurasian Widgeons, Short-Eared Owls and Mountain Bluebirds. Regularly checking the North American Rare Bird Alert or your local Audubon Society chapter will keep you informed about both unusual and regular avian visitors.

Winter Bird and Wildlife Feeders

Winter drives squirrels to even greater food-stealing efforts than usual. The Bird Buffet Squirrel Proof Feeder and similar models will help to thwart them. If squirrels, raccoons, opossums, cats or other animals become a serious problem around your feeders, you may wish to consider a humane live trap (please write in for advice if you are not experienced in animal trapping).

Some folks, myself included, enjoy watching the antics of Red, Gray and Flying Squirrels. The Combo Squirrel Feeder can be set to serve either or both furry and feathered visitors.

Suet Feeders should always be available to provide high protein foods to Nuthatches, Woodpeckers, Creepers and other insect specialists.

Winter Foods

While most any appropriate food will be useful, certain items are especially suitable for harsh weather, when energy needs and other factors influence both people and wildlife.

No Mess Patio Mix contains hulled seeds; ideal for severe weather when it is difficult to clean up around feeders, or anytime you are not physically able to do so (and you’re not paying for shells, only seeds!).

Peanuts, cracked corn and Squirrel Logs are ideal for those who wish to feed squirrels, chipmunks, deer and other mammals. Many birds, including Bobwhite and California Quails and various doves, also relish cracked corn. Peanuts will attract Blue Jays, Monk Parrots and numerous others.

Wild Delight Food Blocks are available in a variety of mixes that are specifically formulated for finches, woodpeckers and general use. Protein and energy-rich Suet Bars and the newer Suet Pellets are important winter standards for woodpeckers, chickadees and many others.

Quails, Doves, Pheasants and other ground-feeding birds are especially at risk following heavy snows. Birdlover’s Quail, Dove and Pigeon Mix spread about on a cleared patch of ground will help them to get by.

Nuthatches, Thrashes, Woodpeckers and many other birds continue to feed upon hibernating insects, and their eggs and pupa, throughout the winter. Freeze-dried mealworms will be greatly appreciated by both insectivorous and omnivorous birds.

Extras and Fun Items

The simple wooden Audubon Bird Call that we currently carry is the exact same model I used over 40 years ago! While I can’t say I ever accurately mimicked any bird, the sounds I created caused just about every species to stop and look around, allowing me a better view without scaring them away. I even used it while working at the Bronx Zoo, in order to attract the attention of meerkats, bald eagles, flying squirrels and all sorts of other creatures…a unique item that should be useful to photographers as well.

A supply of open water is a very important but often over-looked winter necessity. A Birdbath De-Icer will simplify the task of providing water when temperatures drop below freezing.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. Thanks, until next time, Frank Indiviglio.

Is a Macaw the Right Pet for You – a Species-by-Species Review

findiviglio — Wed, 30 Nov 2011 16:23:15 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Many parrot enthusiasts view macaws as the ultimate avian pets. Huge, personable, gorgeous and enormously intelligent, macaws seem to embody all that is desirable in a pet parrot. However, macaw ownership is not to be undertaken lightly…while the rewards are great, there are many responsibilities and “downsides” to consider as well.

General Considerations

If you’ve ever been surprised by the volume of noise a budgie or lovebird can generate, consider what their massive relatives can do! Macaw vocalizations must be heard to be believed. I’ve observed Scarlet Macaws and others on Venezuela’s wide open grasslands, and have worked with them in huge zoo exhibits – even in these habitats, their calls were often deafening. Highly social, it is in their nature to vocalize almost continually.

Innate sociability drives macaws to bond with people, but many owners underestimate what this means. An hour or 2 spent with your bird before and after work is rarely enough to meet its needs. Wild macaws are never out of contact with mates and flock members for long…pets, especially those housed alone, demand more attention than most owners can provide. And even with a great deal of close contact, the relationship can be rocky. While macaws can be among the sweetest of all pets, most have very strong personalities and will test you on a regular basis. Large, powerful beaks and brains render them as birds to be taken seriously.

All parrots, even the tiniest, need lots of space. This fact of parrot life takes on greater importance when your pet is a 30-40 inch long, highly active macaw. Close confinement is torturous for macaws, and will lead to a host of often irreversible problems.

The aforementioned points apply to all macaws. Following is some information that is specific to individual species. Please bear in mind that while a species may exhibit certain tendencies, individual personalities will vary, and a bird’s past history will greatly affect its potential as a pet. As with all animals, certain individuals will appear to break all of their “species’ rules”.

Big and Beautiful, but…

The spectacularly beautiful Scarlet Macaw is among the world’s most recognizable birds. However, as regards pet potential, its beauty is often “skin deep”. Scarlet Macaws are strong-willed and quick to take offense. This, coupled with their natural tendency to communicate physically, i.e. by nips and bites, renders them as birds best left to well-experienced keepers.

Other species sharing the Scarlet’s characteristics are the Military, Severe and Buffon’s Macaws.

Ideal Large Macaw

The Green-Winged (Red and Green) Macaw is an excellent “alternative” to the Scarlet. Among the largest of its family, the Green Wing looks a lot like the Scarlet Macaw, but is, in general, a much calmer bird. Most individuals have very steady personalities, and many develop impressive vocabularies.

The Blue and Gold Macaw has been a favorite of mine ever since I cared for a group of youngsters at a bird importer’s facility many years ago. My boisterous little gang acted like a bunch of puppies, even rolling on their backs and “pawing” the air. In time, I learned that many keepers considered Blue and Golds to be among the most intelligent and playful of all macaws. They are loud, but almost always mild-mannered, and very “forgiving” of typical first-timer mistakes.

The Blue-Throated Macaw puts one in mind of a scaled down Blue and Gold, and is also a good choice for those new to macaw keeping.

The huge Hyacinth Macaw, largest of all, often makes a fine pet and mimics words quite well. At once imposing and beautiful, Hyacinths demand a great deal of attention but are usually very gentle to those with whom they bond.

Mini Macaws…a Wonderful “Compromise”

At 10-11 inches in length, Hahn’s Macaw is the world’s smallest. However, along with the slightly larger Noble Macaw, it is a true macaw in every sense of the word. If you’re looking for a giant parrot in a small package, either will fit the bill. Both are sociable, playful and, like most macaws, a bit loud. The Noble is often steadier in personality than the Hahn’s, and less likely to bite when disturbed.

The Yellow-Collared Macaw is small by macaw standards, but requires a calm, knowledgeable owner who can control its free-wheeling temperament.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook . Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

The African Silverbill – a Near-Perfect Finch Pet

findiviglio — Fri, 25 Nov 2011 17:08:02 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Zebra and Society Finches are often recommended to those new to finch keeping, and with good reason. However, in my opinion, the attractive little African Silverbill or African Warbling Finch, Lonchura cantans, deserves consideration as well. In addition to being a hardy captive, it is also a prolific breeder that hybridizes readily with several other species – ideal qualities if one wishes to experiment with the creation of new finch color phases.

Description

The African Silverbill may seem “plain” to some, but its varied shades of brown, tan, buff, fawn and black both blend and contrast, lending this 4 inch-long mite a unique beauty. The sexes are alike, but only males produce the pleasant, warbling song.

Chocolate, fawn, cinnamon, white and other mutations have been produced, often influenced by related species with which the African Silverbill has been crossed.

Range and Habitat

The African Silverbill’s range extends in a narrow band across Sub-Saharan Africa and south through central East Africa. It has been introduced to Hawaii, Puerto Rico and elsewhere.

It is a bird of open savannas, brushy grasslands and farm edges where grass seed, its primary food, is plentiful. Shy but adaptable, African Silverbills often nest among roof eves and in other sites near people.

Housing

African Silverbills adapt well to standard finch cages, but should always be provided with as much room as possible. Outdoor aviaries are a great option, especially given that they mix well with other small, peaceful finches and softbills.

Diet

I favor dietary variety for most birds, but African Silverbills have rarely responded to my efforts in this regard! They favor canary seed, and do well on a high quality finch/canary mix. Some individuals will accept a bit of egg food or hard-boiled egg, but most do not; even insects are usually disdained. Sprouts and shredded greens may be taken, and should always be available to breeding pairs. Millet spray is a great favorite and will keep them occupied for hours.

Grit and cuttlebone should always be available.

Breeding

African Silverbills are ideal for those new to finch reproduction and are also excellent subjects for advanced breeders wishing to experiment with color morph creation. However, breeding pairs are quite sensitive to disturbances, so it is best not to check on the eggs or young. This is usually unnecessary anyway, as African Silverbills make fine parents if left to their own devices. In fact, they are sometimes used to foster the chicks of other finches.

The carefully woven, enclosed nest will be constructed in a basket, open finch box or, outdoors, in a thick shrub. The 4-6 eggs are incubated by both parents for 13 days. Soaked seeds, sprouts and chopped greens should be provided to the parents once the young hatch.

The chicks fledge in approximately 20 days, and are fed by their parents for an additional 2-3 weeks. The family continues to get along as the youngsters age, and they will roost together at night within the nest in a most amusing fashion.

Hybrids have been produced between African Silverbills and Zebra Finches, Indian Silverbills (they and Africans were once considered to be the same species), Spice Finches and numerous other species.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook . Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Mate Aggression in Parrots – Why Parrots Fight with their Partners

findiviglio — Fri, 18 Nov 2011 14:27:16 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. In the wild, the pair-bond between mated parrots often lasts a lifetime. Captive pairs, however, face unique “relationship challenges” that often complicate the mating process. Owners may find it difficult to find two birds that get along, and even long-established pairs may suddenly begin to fight.

Mate Choice

Parrot breeding is rarely as simple as putting 2 birds of the opposite sex together…both males and females can be quite choosy when it comes to selecting a mate. Coloration, behavior, vigor and a host of factors that we do not fully understand all come into play, with the ultimate goal being the production healthy offspring. The process has evolved over millions of years, and works fine in natural situations, where the birds can choose from numerous potential mates.

Captives face an entirely different situation. Even in large breeding groups, they are limited to a fraction of the potential mates that would be available in the wild. Being naturally social, many parrots “give in” and accept whatever mate, or same sex friend, presents itself; parrots that live alone often transfer their need for companionship to human owners.

Imprinting

Owner-bonded birds, especially those that have been hand-raised, often reject mates. One Great Horned Owl that I reared courted me by attempting to stuff mice in my mouth, but attacked or retreated from others of his kind. In many cases, such birds must be kept alone.

Age and Hormone Levels

Differences in age and fluctuating hormone levels can affect pair formation. Older birds, especially if they have lived alone for a time, may be ready to mate before their partners are sexually mature.

Recently-acquired birds will need time to adjust to their new homes. If they are placed into another’s cage, the original bird may seek to bond or mate too quickly. Either may then attack the other.

In natural situations, the hormone levels of mature males and females are in sync, so that both will be ready to mate at the same time. Pets are not often exposed to normal day/night cycles, weather patterns, air pressure changes and other conditions that affect breeding readiness (remember, these factors have molded parrot evolution for millions of years). While captives will survive unnatural conditions, their hormone production can be affected. Therefore, one parrot’s hormones may be stimulating it to reproduce, while its mate is being signaled to avoid reproductive behavior.

Close Confinement

In addition to parrots, I have worked with many other animals that are known to form strong pair bonds or mate for life – cranes, swans, wolves, certain lizards and fishes and even some invertebrates, such as arrow crabs. In just about every situation, the very fact of confinement has led to “domestic disturbances”.

Wild parrots are occupied with the business of surviving for most of their waking hours, and usually are also interacting with others of their kind in addition to their mates. In captivity, their needs for food and shelter are usually met with little or no effort, leaving much idle time. For highly intelligent, active creatures such as parrots, this often translates into self-destructive behaviors and mate aggression (I’ll leave you to draw your own “Idle hands are the devil’s workshop” human parallels!).

What to Look For

Outright aggression is easy to spot, but there can be less obvious signs that all is not well between parrot pairs. A dominant bird’s presence alone can be enough to intimidate its mate, even without physical attacks. Subordinate birds may not have a chance to feed properly, and often appear either nervous or listless. In addition to nutritional problems, the stress of being caged with an aggressor weakens the immune system and will lead to illness and disease.

While males are often the guilty parties when it comes to mate aggression, females can be just as bad. This is especially true where the female is older than the male or has a more dominant personality, and among Eclectus Parrots, where females seem to be the “stronger” sex.

What to Do

Removing the dominant pair member for awhile is useful (and necessary if the other bird is stressed). This may allow the other to mature, or to settle in if it is a new arrival. Do not remove the subordinate animal as it is useful for it accept the cage as its territory. This may give the bird an edge when the dominant individual is returned. Make all introductions slowly…start by putting the two cages near each other and watch your pets’ reactions.

In cases of minor aggression, try reducing boredom by adding variety to the cage’s furnishings, toys, out-of-cage time and so on. In outdoor aviaries, live plants and branches can be used as sight barriers and to allow each bird some privacy.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio.

The Natural History and Captive Care of the Bronze-Winged Parrot

findiviglio — Tue, 15 Nov 2011 17:41:13 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Also known as the Bronze-Winged Pionus, Pionus chalcopterus, this delightful little bird has been somewhat ignored by US parrot keepers until recently. However, it has many fine pet qualities and boasts a beautiful “color scheme” that is not common among its relatives.

Description

The 11-inch-long Bronze-Wing’s beauty lies not in bright, “screaming” plumage but rather in a subtle blend of colors. It may at first appear somewhat dull, but closer inspection will reveal that the body plumage is dark purple to navy blue, and overlain with a bronze tint…quite attractive and ever-changing with light levels. The pink eye ring and pink-edged head feathers add to its unique appearance, and red coverlets decorate the tail.

Natural History

The Bronze-Winged Parrot’s range lies in a narrow band that extends from northwestern Venezuela (where I once unsuccessfully searched for it) through Columbia and Ecuador to northwestern Peru. It is mainly found in wet, mountainous forests, and has been observed at over 9,000 feet above sea level (please see photo). Lowland forests and cleared areas are sometimes utilized as well.

Not much is known about the Bronze-Wing’s life in the wild, as it usually forages high in the forest canopy and is therefore difficult to study. Fruit, especially various figs, is believed to comprise the bulk of the diet. Outside of the breeding season, it forms small groups and large flocks.

Bronze-Winged Parrots as Pets

Bronze-Wings are usually described as “gentle but easily excited”. My own experience is in line with this, and I recommend them for owners with a gentle touch and calm household.

Despite their reputation as “sensitive” parrots, Bronze-Wings have great pet potential, and may reach age 30-40. In the right situation, they remain quite calm and are easily tamed. Once accustomed to their owners, Bronze-Wings enjoy close contact and many become quite playful. Some owners report that males have a tendency to bond closely with one person, and to be aggressive to others.

They are rather quiet as parrots go, although their high-pitched voices are sometimes hard to take. Although not known for extensive vocabularies, many will learn a few words. Like other Pionus parrots, Bronze-Wings will wheeze when stressed, often leading owners to suspect a respiratory infection.

Housing

Although not very large, Bronze-Winged Parrots are quite active and seem especially prone to stress-related disorders when kept in small enclosures. Large cages or aviaries are ideal, and daily out-of-the cage time is essential. Pairs that are closely confined may over-preen one another to the point of severe feather loss.

Some owners report that Bronze-Wings chew and bathe more than most parrots; I have not noticed a significant difference between them and other Pionus parrots in these regards.

Diet

Fruit and greens figure highly in the natural diet of Bronze-Winged Parrots. Perhaps because they are often fed an over-abundance of seeds and nuts, pets have a tendency to become obese.

Provide your Bronze-Wings with a wide variety of fruits and vegetables on a daily basis, and be sure to search out “exotic” varieties if these are not available from your usual store. Pomegranate, prickly pear fruit, apples, kiwi, carrots, peas, corn, dandelion, kale and many other types of produce will be readily accepted (introduce new foods slowly to avoid digestive upset).

The balance of the diet should be comprised of a good small parrot seed mix. Avoid diets formulated for larger species, and be sure to sprout a variety of seeds for them as well (please see article below).

Breeding

Breeding is best attempted in large aviaries. Bronze-Wing clutches average 2-4 eggs, which are incubated for 24-27 days. Only the female incubates, but the male often sits beside her in the nest hollow – the mothers among my readers must, I’m sure, wonder just how “useful” this is!

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

That Bird Blog » General Bird Care

Breeding and Keeping the Nonpareil Finch or Pin-Tailed Parrot Finch

Description

Range and Habitat

Keeping Nonpareils

Enclosure

Light, Heat and Humidity

Diet

Breeding

Further Reading

Blue-Crowned Conures in the Wild – the Natural History of a Popular Pet

Description

Range

Habitat

Conservation

Ecology

Breeding

Vocalizations

Blue-Crowned Conures as Pets

Further Reading

Red-Billed Quelea – Captive Care of the World’s Most Numerous Bird

Description

Natural History

Range

Habitat

Captive Housing

Diet

Breeding

Further Reading

Barbets – Stunning, Unique Aviary Birds for Experienced Keepers

“Frank, your barbet is on my fence.”

Description

Range and Habitat

Barbets in Captivity

Feeding

Further Reading

Holiday Season Treats and Cautions for Parrot and Finch Owners

Stress, Noise and Late Nights

Canaries, Finches and other Birds

Un-caged Parrots

Bird-Friendly Treats

Gifts for Bird Owners

Further Reading

Winter Bird Feeding – Rare Bird Update and Some Useful Products

Birding Surprises

Winter Bird and Wildlife Feeders

Winter Foods

Extras and Fun Items

Further Reading

Is a Macaw the Right Pet for You – a Species-by-Species Review

General Considerations

Big and Beautiful, but…

Ideal Large Macaw

Mini Macaws…a Wonderful “Compromise”

Further Reading

The African Silverbill – a Near-Perfect Finch Pet

Description

Range and Habitat

Housing

Diet

Breeding

Further Reading

Mate Aggression in Parrots – Why Parrots Fight with their Partners

Mate Choice

Imprinting

Age and Hormone Levels

Close Confinement

What to Look For

What to Do

Further Reading

The Natural History and Captive Care of the Bronze-Winged Parrot

Description

Natural History

Bronze-Winged Parrots as Pets

Housing

Diet

Breeding

Further Reading