Stress, Noise and Late Nights

Responsible bird owners know that certain holiday treats and, of course, alcohol, are bad for birds.  But many overlook the important role that sleep plays in bird health (please see article below). If you entertain late, or will be out often during the holidays, keep in mind that most birds need 10-12 hours of sleep in a dark, quiet environment. If necessary, move your pet’s cage to an area that is off-limits to guests, and shut the room lights via a timer if the rest of your house will be lit after the usual “lights-out” time.  Maintaining a stable day/night cycle is good for your birds mental and physical health.

Holiday parties can mean a house stocked with loud, tipsy guests, excited children and unfamiliar dogs. Each of these “creatures” (especially, those influenced by alcohol!) may take liberties with your pets that they otherwise would not. If it will be difficult for you to monitor all that is going on, consider keeping your birds in a locked room while parties are in progress (or “raging”, as the case may be!).

I’ve worked with parrots that thrived in hectic surroundings, such as busy nature centers and classrooms, but these individuals were exceptions.  In general, parrots regard strangers and unusual events as threats. It’s important to remember that, however tame they may be, parrots are not domesticated animals, and remain governed by instincts and behaviors that have evolved over many millions of years.

Canaries, Finches and other Birds

All birds are highly aware of their environments, even though most do not show this as obviously as do parrots.  Wild finches, canaries, doves and softbills are on the menus of a wide array of predators, and they are, therefore, exceedingly cautious by nature. I’ve even had small birds die “of fright” in my hand…please keep the delicate natures of your smaller birds in mind as the holidays approach.

Un-caged Parrots

Parrots that adjust well to strangers, and which spend time out of their cages, face different risks than do their shyer cousins.  Most of these threats are well-known, but they bear repeating. Shiny ornaments, unique foods, ribbons, toys and electric wires may all be dangerous to curious pets. 

Also, think carefully before offering your parrot a taste of those special holiday foods that may come your way.  Since they may not familiar to you, take time to read the list of ingredients.  Some hold unpleasant surprises for birds (and us!), even if they “appear” healthful…there’s a lot more than just “fruit” in the typical holiday fruit cake, for example!

Bird-Friendly Treats

I’m not a complete Scrooge…there are many tasty, nutritious surprises that you can buy or make for your pet birds, and for wild ones that you may feed. Please see the article below for holiday snacks that are quite simple to prepare, and check out our line of treats for pet and wild birds.

Gifts for Bird Owners

Need a gift for the bird owners on your list? From simple “build your own bird toys” to extravagant, mansion-like cages, the options are limitless. 

In my opinion, Joseph Forshaw’s classic Parrots of the World makes an unbeatable gift for parrot enthusiasts.  Covering the natural history of every parrot species and subspecies, it goes way beyond what can be found in typical pet care books, and is an enjoyable read besides.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook.  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Video: Quaker Parrot Singing “Jingle Bells” (traditional and “unique” version!)

Making a Christmas Tree for Birds

Homemade Holiday treats for Pet and Wild Birds 

Sleep: the Key to Teaching Your Parrot New Words?

Yellow Naped Amazon image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Matt edmonds
Christmas Tree image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Marlene Thyssen

Post from: That Bird Blog


Holiday Season Treats and Cautions for Parrot and Finch Owners

Birding Surprises

Wherever you are located, winter birding is an exciting prospect.  Often, unexpected birds tend to stay put for quite awhile, due to disorientation and the need to remain near a newfound food source.  Checking with the many on-line and telephone services (yes, phone-based reports still exist, check here!) is a great way to remain aware of what’s going on nearby; if luck is with you, you can then go out and see the bird that has been reported.

Local birders in and around NYC have already posted sightings of Snowy Owls, Nashville Warblers, Lincoln’s Sparrows and Winter Wrens.  In Los Angeles, recent notable visitors include Eurasian Widgeons, Short-Eared Owls and Mountain Bluebirds.  Regularly checking the North American Rare Bird Alert or your local Audubon Society chapter will keep you informed about both unusual and regular avian visitors.

Winter Bird and Wildlife Feeders

Winter drives squirrels to even greater food-stealing efforts than usual.  The Bird Buffet Squirrel Proof Feeder and similar models will help to thwart them.  If squirrels, raccoons, opossums, cats or other animals become a serious problem around your feeders, you may wish to consider a humane live trap (please write in for advice if you are not experienced in animal trapping).

Some folks, myself included, enjoy watching the antics of Red, Gray and Flying Squirrels. The Combo Squirrel Feeder can be set to serve either or both furry and feathered visitors.

Suet Feeders should always be available to provide high protein foods to Nuthatches, Woodpeckers, Creepers and other insect specialists.

Winter Foods

While most any appropriate food will be useful, certain items are especially suitable for harsh weather, when energy needs and other factors influence both people and wildlife.

No Mess Patio Mix contains hulled seeds; ideal for severe weather when it is difficult to clean up around feeders, or anytime you are not physically able to do so (and you’re not paying for shells, only seeds!).

Peanuts, cracked corn and Squirrel Logs are ideal for those who wish to feed squirrels, chipmunks, deer and other mammals.  Many birds, including Bobwhite and California Quails and various doves, also relish cracked corn.  Peanuts will attract Blue Jays, Monk Parrots and numerous others.

Wild Delight Food Blocks are available in a variety of mixes that are specifically formulated for finches, woodpeckers and general use.  Protein and energy-rich Suet Bars and the newer Suet Pellets are important winter standards for woodpeckers, chickadees and many others.

Quails, Doves, Pheasants and other ground-feeding birds are especially at risk following heavy snows.  Birdlover’s Quail, Dove and Pigeon Mix spread about on a cleared patch of ground will help them to get by.

Nuthatches, Thrashes, Woodpeckers and many other birds continue to feed upon hibernating insects, and their eggs and pupa, throughout the winter.  Freeze-dried mealworms will be greatly appreciated by both insectivorous and omnivorous birds.

Extras and Fun Items

The simple wooden Audubon Bird Call that we currently carry is the exact same model I used over 40 years ago!  While I can’t say I ever accurately mimicked any bird, the sounds I created caused just about every species to stop and look around, allowing me a better view without scaring them away. I even used it while working at the Bronx Zoo, in order to attract the attention of meerkats, bald eagles, flying squirrels and all sorts of other creatures…a unique item that should be useful to photographers as well.

A supply of open water is a very important but often over-looked winter necessity.  A Birdbath De-Icer will simplify the task of providing water when temperatures drop below freezing.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook.  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.  Thanks, until next time, Frank Indiviglio.

Further Reading

National Audubon Society Christmas Bird Count

Snowy Owl Winter Migrations: video and information

Preparing Your Feeders for Winter

Mountain Bluebird image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Elaine R. Wilson
Flying Squirrel image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Steve Ryan

Feeder in the Snow image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Algont

Post from: That Bird Blog


Winter Bird Feeding – Rare Bird Update and Some Useful Products

General Considerations

If you’ve ever been surprised by the volume of noise a budgie or lovebird can generate, consider what their massive relatives can do!  Macaw vocalizations must be heard to be believed.  I’ve observed Scarlet Macaws and others on Venezuela’s wide open grasslands, and have worked with them in huge zoo exhibits – even in these habitats, their calls were often deafening.  Highly social, it is in their nature to vocalize almost continually. 

Innate sociability drives macaws to bond with people, but many owners underestimate what this means.  An hour or 2 spent with your bird before and after work is rarely enough to meet its needs.  Wild macaws are never out of contact with mates and flock members for long…pets, especially those housed alone, demand more attention than most owners can provide.  And even with a great deal of close contact, the relationship can be rocky.  While macaws can be among the sweetest of all pets, most have very strong personalities and will test you on a regular basis.  Large, powerful beaks and brains render them as birds to be taken seriously.

All parrots, even the tiniest, need lots of space.  This fact of parrot life takes on greater importance when your pet is a 30-40 inch long, highly active macaw. Close confinement is torturous for macaws, and will lead to a host of often irreversible problems.

The aforementioned points apply to all macaws. Following is some information that is specific to individual species. Please bear in mind that while a species may exhibit certain tendencies, individual personalities will vary, and a bird’s past history will greatly affect its potential as a pet. As with all animals, certain individuals will appear to break all of their “species’ rules”.

Big and Beautiful, but…

The spectacularly beautiful Scarlet Macaw is among the world’s most recognizable birds.  However, as regards pet potential, its beauty is often “skin deep”.  Scarlet Macaws are strong-willed and quick to take offense.  This, coupled with their natural tendency to communicate physically, i.e. by nips and bites, renders them as birds best left to well-experienced keepers.

Other species sharing the Scarlet’s characteristics are the Military, Severe and Buffon’s Macaws.

Ideal Large Macaw

The Green-Winged (Red and Green) Macaw is an excellent “alternative” to the Scarlet. Among the largest of its family, the Green Wing looks a lot like the Scarlet Macaw, but is, in general, a much calmer bird.  Most individuals have very steady personalities, and many develop impressive vocabularies.

The Blue and Gold Macaw has been a favorite of mine ever since I cared for a group of youngsters at a bird importer’s facility many years ago.  My boisterous little gang acted like a bunch of puppies, even rolling on their backs and “pawing” the air.  In time, I learned that many keepers considered Blue and Golds to be among the most intelligent and playful of all macaws.  They are loud, but almost always mild-mannered, and very “forgiving” of typical first-timer mistakes.

The Blue-Throated Macaw puts one in mind of a scaled down Blue and Gold, and is also a good choice for those new to macaw keeping.

The huge Hyacinth Macaw, largest of all, often makes a fine pet and mimics words quite well.   At once imposing and beautiful, Hyacinths demand a great deal of attention but are usually very gentle to those with whom they bond.

Mini Macaws…a Wonderful “Compromise”

At 10-11 inches in length, Hahn’s Macaw is the world’s smallest.  However, along with the slightly larger Noble Macaw, it is a true macaw in every sense of the word.  If you’re looking for a giant parrot in a small package, either will fit the bill.  Both are sociable, playful and, like most macaws, a bit loud.  The Noble is often steadier in personality than the Hahn’s, and less likely to bite when disturbed.

The Yellow-Collared Macaw is small by macaw standards, but requires a calm, knowledgeable owner who can control its free-wheeling temperament.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook .  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Observations on Wild Scarlet Macaws

Hyacinth Macaw Conservation

Macaw Overview: further thoughts on various species

Scarlet and Blue and Gold Macaw image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by eddy
Red and Green Macaw image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Lee

Hahn’s Macaw image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Snowmanradio

Post from: That Bird Blog


Is a Macaw the Right Pet for You – a Species-by-Species Review

Description

The African Silverbill may seem “plain” to some, but its varied shades of brown, tan, buff, fawn and black both blend and contrast, lending this 4 inch-long mite a unique beauty.  The sexes are alike, but only males produce the pleasant, warbling song. 

Chocolate, fawn, cinnamon, white and other mutations have been produced, often influenced by related species with which the African Silverbill has been crossed.

Range and Habitat

The African Silverbill’s range extends in a narrow band across Sub-Saharan Africa and south through central East Africa.  It has been introduced to Hawaii, Puerto Rico and elsewhere.

It is a bird of open savannas, brushy grasslands and farm edges where grass seed, its primary food, is plentiful.  Shy but adaptable, African Silverbills often nest among roof eves and in other sites near people.

Housing

African Silverbills adapt well to standard finch cages, but should always be provided with as much room as possible.  Outdoor aviaries are a great option, especially given that they mix well with other small, peaceful finches and softbills.

Diet

I favor dietary variety for most birds, but African Silverbills have rarely responded to my efforts in this regard!  They favor canary seed, and do well on a high quality finch/canary mix.  Some individuals will accept a bit of egg food or hard-boiled egg, but most do not; even insects are usually disdained.  Sprouts and shredded greens may be taken, and should always be available to breeding pairs.  Millet spray is a great favorite and will keep them occupied for hours.

Grit and cuttlebone should always be available.

Breeding

African Silverbills are ideal for those new to finch reproduction and are also excellent subjects for advanced breeders wishing to experiment with color morph creation.  However, breeding pairs are quite sensitive to disturbances, so it is best not to check on the eggs or young.  This is usually unnecessary anyway, as African Silverbills make fine parents if left to their own devices.  In fact, they are sometimes used to foster the chicks of other finches.

The carefully woven, enclosed nest will be constructed in a basket, open finch box or, outdoors, in a thick shrub.  The 4-6 eggs are incubated by both parents for 13 days.  Soaked seeds, sprouts and chopped greens should be provided to the parents once the young hatch.

The chicks fledge in approximately 20 days, and are fed by their parents for an additional 2-3 weeks.  The family continues to get along as the youngsters age, and they will roost together at night within the nest in a most amusing fashion. 

Hybrids have been produced between African Silverbills and Zebra Finches, Indian Silverbills (they and Africans were once considered to be the same species), Spice Finches and numerous other species. 

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook .  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Video: Silverbills constructing a nest

Feral African Silverbills on Hawaii

Keeping other Silverbills

Indian Silverbill image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by J.M. Garg

Post from: That Bird Blog


The African Silverbill – a Near-Perfect Finch Pet

Mate Choice

Parrot breeding is rarely as simple as putting 2 birds of the opposite sex together…both males and females can be quite choosy when it comes to selecting a mate.  Coloration, behavior, vigor and a host of factors that we do not fully understand all come into play, with the ultimate goal being the production healthy offspring.  The process has evolved over millions of years, and works fine in natural situations, where the birds can choose from numerous potential mates.

Captives face an entirely different situation.  Even in large breeding groups, they are limited to a fraction of the potential mates that would be available in the wild.  Being naturally social, many parrots “give in” and accept whatever mate, or same sex friend, presents itself; parrots that live alone often transfer their need for companionship to human owners. 

Imprinting

Owner-bonded birds, especially those that have been hand-raised, often reject mates.  One Great Horned Owl that I reared courted me by attempting to stuff mice in my mouth, but attacked or retreated from others of his kind.  In many cases, such birds must be kept alone.

Age and Hormone Levels

Differences in age and fluctuating hormone levels can affect pair formation.  Older birds, especially if they have lived alone for a time, may be ready to mate before their partners are sexually mature. 

Recently-acquired birds will need time to adjust to their new homes. If they are placed into another’s cage, the original bird may seek to bond or mate too quickly. Either may then attack the other. 

In natural situations, the hormone levels of mature males and females are in sync, so that both will be ready to mate at the same time.  Pets are not often exposed to normal day/night cycles, weather patterns, air pressure changes and other conditions that affect breeding readiness (remember, these factors have molded parrot evolution for millions of years).  While captives will survive unnatural conditions, their hormone production can be affected.  Therefore, one parrot’s hormones may be stimulating it to reproduce, while its mate is being signaled to avoid reproductive behavior.

Close Confinement

In addition to parrots, I have worked with many other animals that are known to form strong pair bonds or mate for life – cranes, swans, wolves, certain lizards and fishes and even some invertebrates, such as arrow crabs. In just about every situation, the very fact of confinement has led to “domestic disturbances”. 

Wild parrots are occupied with the business of surviving for most of their waking hours, and usually are also interacting with others of their kind in addition to their mates. In captivity, their needs for food and shelter are usually met with little or no effort, leaving much idle time.  For highly intelligent, active creatures such as parrots, this often translates into self-destructive behaviors and mate aggression (I’ll leave you to draw your own “Idle hands are the devil’s workshop” human parallels!). 

What to Look For

Outright aggression is easy to spot, but there can be less obvious signs that all is not well between parrot pairs.  A dominant bird’s presence alone can be enough to intimidate its mate, even without physical attacks. Subordinate birds may not have a chance to feed properly, and often appear either nervous or listless.  In addition to nutritional problems, the stress of being caged with an aggressor weakens the immune system and will lead to illness and disease.

While males are often the guilty parties when it comes to mate aggression, females can be just as bad. This is especially true where the female is older than the male or has a more dominant personality, and among Eclectus Parrots, where females seem to be the “stronger” sex.

What to Do

Removing the dominant pair member for awhile is useful (and necessary if the other bird is stressed). This may allow the other to mature, or to settle in if it is a new arrival. Do not remove the subordinate animal as it is useful for it accept the cage as its territory. This may give the bird an edge when the dominant individual is returned.  Make all introductions slowly…start by putting the two cages near each other and watch your pets’ reactions.

In cases of minor aggression, try reducing boredom by adding variety to the cage’s furnishings, toys, out-of-cage time and so on. In outdoor aviaries, live plants and branches can be used as sight barriers and to allow each bird some privacy.

Please check out my posts on Twitter http://twitter.com/#!/findiviglio and Facebook http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100000972624553.  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio.

Further Reading

Mate Choice in Budgies: Opposites do not Attract

Eclectus Parrot Breeding Strategies

Ultra-Violet Vision and Mate Choice in Parrots

Blue-Steaked Lory image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Snowmanradio
Blue-Steaked Lory image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Snowmanradio

Post from: That Bird Blog


Mate Aggression in Parrots – Why Parrots Fight with their Partners

Description

The 11-inch-long Bronze-Wing’s beauty lies not in bright, “screaming” plumage but rather in a subtle blend of colors.  It may at first appear somewhat dull, but closer inspection will reveal that the body plumage is dark purple to navy blue, and overlain with a bronze tint…quite attractive and ever-changing with light levels.  The pink eye ring and pink-edged head feathers add to its unique appearance, and red coverlets decorate the tail.

Natural History

The Bronze-Winged Parrot’s range lies in a narrow band that extends from northwestern Venezuela (where I once unsuccessfully searched for it) through Columbia and Ecuador to northwestern Peru.  It is mainly found in wet, mountainous forests, and has been observed at over 9,000 feet above sea level (please see photo).  Lowland forests and cleared areas are sometimes utilized as well.

Not much is known about the Bronze-Wing’s life in the wild, as it usually forages high in the forest canopy and is therefore difficult to study.  Fruit, especially various figs, is believed to comprise the bulk of the diet.  Outside of the breeding season, it forms small groups and large flocks.

Bronze-Winged Parrots as Pets

Bronze-Wings are usually described as “gentle but easily excited”.  My own experience is in line with this, and I recommend them for owners with a gentle touch and calm household. 

Despite their reputation as “sensitive” parrots, Bronze-Wings have great pet potential, and may reach age 30-40.  In the right situation, they remain quite calm and are easily tamed. Once accustomed to their owners, Bronze-Wings enjoy close contact and many become quite playful.  Some owners report that males have a tendency to bond closely with one person, and to be aggressive to others.

They are rather quiet as parrots go, although their high-pitched voices are sometimes hard to take.  Although not known for extensive vocabularies, many will learn a few words. Like other Pionus parrots, Bronze-Wings will wheeze when stressed, often leading owners to suspect a respiratory infection.

Housing

Although not very large, Bronze-Winged Parrots are quite active and seem especially prone to stress-related disorders when kept in small enclosures.  Large cages or aviaries are ideal, and daily out-of-the cage time is essential.  Pairs that are closely confined may over-preen one another to the point of severe feather loss. 

Some owners report that Bronze-Wings chew and bathe more than most parrots; I have not noticed a significant difference between them and other Pionus parrots in these regards.

Diet

Fruit and greens figure highly in the natural diet of Bronze-Winged Parrots.  Perhaps because they are often fed an over-abundance of seeds and nuts, pets have a tendency to become obese.

Provide your Bronze-Wings with a wide variety of fruits and vegetables on a daily basis, and be sure to search out “exotic” varieties if these are not available from your usual store.  Pomegranate, prickly pear fruit, apples, kiwi, carrots, peas, corn, dandelion, kale and many other types of produce will be readily accepted (introduce new foods slowly to avoid digestive upset).

The balance of the diet should be comprised of a good small parrot seed mix. Avoid diets formulated for larger species, and be sure to sprout a variety of seeds for them as well (please see article below).

Breeding

Breeding is best attempted in large aviaries.  Bronze-Wing clutches average 2-4 eggs, which are incubated for 24-27 days.  Only the female incubates, but the male often sits beside her in the nest hollow – the mothers among my readers must, I’m sure, wonder just how “useful” this is!

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook.  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Video: Wild Bronze-Wings feeding

Pionus Parrots (several species) as Pets

Sprouting Seeds for Birds

Bronze-winged Parrot image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Randy

Bronze-winged Parrot image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Yve5

Post from: That Bird Blog


The Natural History and Captive Care of the Bronze-Winged Parrot

The Transition Period

Pet Canaries feed their chicks largely upon sprouts, soaked seeds and Egg Food or hard boiled eggs.  Once the young fledge, which usually occurs at age 16-20 days, they will be fed by their parents for an additional 2 -3 weeks.  During this time, they will also begin to pick at food and eventually learn to eat on their own.  Fledglings benefit from watching their parents and siblings…chicks that are hand-reared are at a disadvantage in this respect, but will also respond to the ideas and foods mentioned below.

Hard seeds are a novel food for young Canaries, and acquiring the skill needed to open them takes practice.  A high protein diet remains important right through the first molt (which usually begins within 2 months of fledging), but eventually seeds should replace egg-based foods as their staple. 

Caution: Stress and Weight Loss

While it is important to encourage youngsters to accept hard seeds, bear in mind that dietary switches, and the loss of parental care, are very stressful events.  Stress can depress the immune system…if the birds are also losing weight, serious health problems can quickly take hold.  So it’s important to keep them feeding, even if this means that the transition to adult foods will be slow.  Continue to supply young birds with their favorites, such as egg food and sprouts, especially if they appear to be losing weight and slowing down.  Canaries have little in the way of food reserves, so be sure to seek veterinary advice quickly if your birds decline in condition.

Make all introductions gradually…even healthy foods may cause digestive upset if suddenly taken in large quantities.  And, as most parents will tell you, mixing with favorite foods, and other trickery, is critical if any young “creature” is to accept a new diet!

Useful Weaning Foods and Techniques

Couscous soaked in hot water is used by many breeders as a transition food.  I use soaked, crushed seeds in place of couscous, but several of my former coworkers at the Bronx Zoo report that Canaries eat it readily, and remain in good weight while adjusting to a seed-based diet.  If you opt for couscous, I suggest that you offer soaked, ground seeds as well.

Crushed softbill pellets (i.e. Softbill Select) can be mixed into the foods that the youngsters are accustomed to (typically Egg Food or a similar product).  This will provide additional nutrients and introduce new tastes.

Seeds that are just beginning to sprout (please see photo, and article below for sprouting info) are one of the best foods to introduce.  Most young Canaries relish sprouts; while pecking at the sprout the birds invariably hit the seed itself, and in time will begin to consume it as well. 

Mix some soaked seeds from your adult canary diet in among the sprouts to encourage further experimentation.  Once your birds are eating softened seeds, add crushed or ground hard seeds.  Coffee grinders or pestles can be used to break up seeds and render them easier to consume.

Please check out my posts on Twitter http://twitter.com/#!/findiviglio and Facebook http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100000972624553.  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Sprouting Seeds for Birds

Caring for Fledgling Canaries

Video: Canary fledgling being fed by parent

Canary Nesting image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Fir0002
Juvenile Canary image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Juan Emilio
Mixed Bean Sprouts image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Atelier Joly

Post from: That Bird Blog


Weaning Canaries – Encouraging Fledglings to Accept the Adult Diet

Harsh Conditions and Drastic Adaptations

The study, published in the journal Current Biology (October, 2011), was conducted by researchers based at the Australian National University.  The study site was at Cape York, Queensland, in Australia’s tropical northeast (Eclectus Parrots are also found on New Guinea and many Indonesian islands). 

The unusual behavior seems driven by the scarcity of safe nesting holes, which are generally located 90 feet or so above ground.  Nest sites closer to the ground are vulnerable to flooding, and to predation by scrub pythons and monitor lizards.  Females fight viciously over prime nest sites, and may occupy the same one for many years.

Female Eclectus chicks are easier to rear than males, and fledge as much as a week earlier than their brothers. Apparently, time is of the essence during very rainy years, or in particularly vulnerable nests, because females will kill the more “costly” male chicks when certain conditions are met.  In doing so, they increase the likelihood of successfully rearing at least 1 chick (only 2 eggs are produced).  Details need to be explored, as not every mother in a poor nest site will kill her male offspring, but the pattern is quite clear. 

Choosing the Chick’s Sex?

According to some researchers, females that typically use low nest hollows have evolved a way to choose the sex of their offspring, dispensing with males before they are born.

Other Eclectus Strategies

Some Eclectus Parrot populations are already skewed in favor of females.  I wonder if this helps to explain another of their odd breeding behaviors.  Unlike most parrots, female Eclectus will mate with multiple males, each of whom will feed her while she is on the nest. 

Females Eclectus Parrots rarely leave the nest hole during the nesting season, and so rely entirely upon their mate for food.   Multiple males were thought to be an “insurance” policy against the death of one.  But only a small percentage of females can find and keep safe nest sites.  Perhaps the males must share successful females if they are to have any chance of contributing to the next generation?

The fact that even such a popular, well-studied parrot holds such secrets is very exciting…we really never can tell what will come to light next!

Please check out my posts on Twitter  and Facebook.  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Eclectus Parrots in the Wild and Captivity

Video: Eclectus Parrots “Chatting”

Typical and Unique Bird Breeding Strategies

Eclectus pair image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Doug Jansen
Eclectus juvenile male image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Sergio Almeida

Post from: That Bird Blog


During Hard Times, Eclectus Parrot Moms Kill Male Chicks and Raise Females

PBFD Natural History

The virus that causes PBFD was first described in 1987, when it was discovered in a captive group Orange-Bellied Parrots, a highly endangered species.  Further study revealed that the virus occurred naturally in Australia, and likely was endemic there (found nowhere else). The disease is now established worldwide, apparently having been spread by the legal and illegal trade in parrots. 

The PBFD virus is an extremely hardy organism, and likely survives for many years in nest hollows and roosting/feeding areas. To date, only one disinfectant, Virkon S, has proven able to kill it.  The virus has been found in feather dust, feces and the crop lining of infected birds.  Transmission seems to occur in several ways – direct contact with sick birds, inhalation of the virus from dust and feces and via food passed to chicks by parents.

PBFB may incubate within a parrot for 3 weeks to 12 months, during which time symptoms will not be visible. Birds incubating the virus will, however, shed it in the feces and feather dust, and thus infect others. In rare cases, adult parrots may survive PBFD. Unfortunately, they continue to shed the virus even after full recovery.

The Various Forms of PBFD

Three forms on PBFD have been identified.  Peracute PBFD affects newly-hatched chicks and is usually fatal within 2-3 weeks.  As feather abnormalities are not visible, this form is usually diagnosed only upon necropsy.

Acute PBFD is seen among nestlings that are developing their first feathers, and usually causes death within weeks.  Infected birds become lethargic, and may vomit and exhibit abnormal feather growth (please see below).

Adult parrots afflicted with Chronic PBFD exhibit feather abnormalities such as the loss of powder down, curled feathers, retained sheaths and color changes.  The beak, especially in cockatoos, may flake and crack, and nails may curl as they grow.  Diarrhea, lethargy and vomiting may are often present.

PBFD is most accurately diagnosed via a blood test.

Immune System Effects

In addition to causing feather, nail and beak destruction, PBFD depresses the immune system.  Death often results from secondary infections (i.e. septicemia and pneumonia) caused by opportunistic bacteria.  Cracks in the beak, and skin wounds caused by abnormal feather growth, likely worsen the situation by providing an easy route for bacterial infection. 

Managing PBFD in the Wild

PBFD is considered to be a serious threat to the survival of several rare Australian species, including the Swift, Orange-Bellied and Norfolk Island Green Parrots. Australia’s Environmental Protection and Biodiversity Act provides for a PBFD management program (please see article below). 

Research into the development of a vaccine is ongoing, but success is not expected in the near future.

Managing PBFD in Captivity

While there is as yet no cure for PBFD, there are some steps that can be taken to increase the quality of life for infected pets.  As is true for all creatures, a proper environment and diet will strengthen the immune system and possibly reduce the severity of the disease or its symptoms.  Exposure to sunlight or artificial UVB, a natural photo-period (day/night cycle) and an appropriate diet have been found useful (please see article below). 

If you maintain a parrot collection, newly-received individuals should be kept in isolation until they have been checked for PBFD.  Due to the severity of the symptoms, one may need to consider euthanasia as the disease progresses.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and facebook.  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Australian Government PCD Abatement Plan

Arizona Exotic Animal Hospital Information, with tips on caring for infected Parrots

PBFD in wild CapeParrots (South Africa)

 
PFBD Infected Cockatoo image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by S B and Snowmanradio

Post from: That Bird Blog


Understanding Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease (PBFD)

Natural History

The 5-inch-long Tri-Colored Munia is found in southern India and Sri Lanka.  It is most common in and near swamps, flooded meadows, riversides, rice fields and other moist, open habitats. 

The Black-Headed Munia was long considered to be a subspecies of the Tri-Colored, but has now been designated as a distinct species.  However, captives interbreed readily, and will also pair up with related finches. Its natural range, which lies north and east-southeast of the Tri-Color’s, extends from northern India through southern China, Thailand and Vietnam.  It tops out at 4.5 inches in length.

Both species rely upon grass seeds as their primary food, and may form large flocks outside of the breeding season.

Captive Care: Housing

Due to their diminutive size, Munias are usually kept in quite small cages.  While most will adjust to such accommodations, they will be much more content and active (and more interesting to observe!) if provided with a large flight cage. 

Outdoor aviaries are ideal for small groups.  If not crowded, they will get along well with other similarly-sized finches, but aggression can occur during the breeding season. 

Diet

A high quality finch seed mix containing dehydrated fruit and vegetables (they do not take much fresh fruit, but seem to benefit from dried bits included in commercial diets) should form the basis of the diet.

Small amounts of chopped kale, romaine and other greens, as well as fresh sprouts, should be offered several times weekly.  Soaked seed are beneficial to pairs rearing chicks.

Although most accounts claim that Tri-Colored and Black-Headed Munias will not eat insects, those under my care have taken waxworms, mealworms, wingless houseflies and small crickets.  Perhaps food preferences vary among different populations, and this is reflected by captive bred descendants.  In any case, I suggest offering insects, especially during the breeding season.

grit and cuttlebone should always be available.

Breeding

Breeding is most likely to occur when a pair has plenty of room.

In the wild, both species construct a covered, oval nest of dried grasses and moss, usually located 6-8 feet above-ground.  Nesting baskets may be accepted by captives.

Both parents incubate their 4-5 eggs for 12-14 days.  The young fledge when they are approximately 3-4 weeks old.

Special Considerations

In common with other savanna-adapted finches, Black-Headed and Tri-Colored Munias have very long, curved nails that assist them in clinging to swaying grass stems while feeding. Their nails grow quickly and may become entangled in cage mesh or wire if not trimmed regularly.  Be sure to seek assistance from an experienced bird keeper or veterinarian if you are not familiar with nail-clipping.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook.  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,
Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Black-Headed Munia videos and sound recordings

Finch Facts: an overview

Video: wild Tri-Colored Munias

Basic Finch Care

 
Black Headed Munia image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Heini Wang and Snowmanradio
Tri-color Munia image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Krayker
Munia Nest image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Kguirnela

Post from: That Bird Blog


Natural History and Captive Care of Tri-Colored and Black-Headed Munias