That Bird Blog » Bird Health

Breeding and Keeping the Nonpareil Finch or Pin-Tailed Parrot Finch

findiviglio — Thu, 28 Feb 2013 20:12:28 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. When translated to English, the French language name for this little finch – Nonpareil – means “without equal”. The name suits the gorgeous bird perfectly…so much so that aviculturists of all nationalities have adopted it. Also known as the Pin-Tailed Parrot Finch (Erythrura prasina), the brilliantly-colored Nonpareil has long been among the most desired of all Southeast Asian finches.

My first experience with these beauties came while working for a bird importer. I was captivated by their colors, but despaired over the stress caused them by shipment and confinement to quarantine facilities. Fortunately, an experienced private breeder helped me to learn the keys to keeping them alive and well.

Description

The 5.5 inch-long male Nonpareils are clad in “grass green”, bright red and brilliant blue, and sport elongated central tail feathers. Females have shorter tails and are not as gaudy, but are also quite colorful. While most related parrot finches are attractive (please see photos), none are as spectacular as the Nonpareil.

Yellow-bellied individuals are found in some wild populations, but are not common in captivity. Birds originating from Borneo have more blue in the plumage, and are considered by most to be a subspecies. Although few aviculturists see any need to experiment with color mutations, largely-green and pied strains have been established.

Range and Habitat

Nonpareils range from Myanmar through Thailand, Malaysia, Borneo, Sumatra and Java.

Habitat preferences are not well-studied, but they are most often observed along moist forest fringes and in bamboo thickets, brushy river edges and overgrown areas near rice farms.

Keeping Nonpareils

Nonpareils are notoriously shy and a bit high-strung, but when properly housed are quite hardy, and a delight to observe. They do well in colonies, and most successful breeders report they are best kept in this manner.

If confined to small cages or denied cover and visual barriers, Nonpareils will not thrive. When startled, they may fly into cage walls and become injured, especially if their enclosure is not correctly set-up.

Enclosure

Nonpareils forage almost entirely above-ground, and are not comfortable when forced to feed on the cage floor. They must be supplied with elevated shelves and perches. Tiny forest-dwellers are on the menu of myriad predators, so Nonpareils are consequently very ill-at-ease in open situations. Dried or live grass clumps, hanging potted plants and bushes should be always be positioned about the aviary to prevent their becoming stressed.

The need for security and ample cover is one of the most important considerations in the husbandry of Nonpareils. While aviary-style indoor cages may work if one takes great care, outdoor aviaries or homemade indoor cages are the best options. Please see this site for an example of a well-planned indoor aviary.

Nonpareils, even those well-habituated to captivity, tend to hide when their enclosure is approached. Allowing them to remain out-of-sight when necessary will encourage a sense of security that will translate into healthier pets.

It is important to avoid startling Nonpareils – i.e. by suddenly illuminating a dark room – as they may explode into flight and injure themselves.

Light, Heat and Humidity

Full spectrum light, while not essential, may encourage breeding and other natural behaviors in Nonpareils that are housed indoors.

Native to warm, moist habitats, Nonpareils be kept at temperatures of 72-76 F and a humidity range of 50-60%. Temperatures to 90 F, and quite humid conditions, have been successfully used by some keepers.

Diet

Grass seeds form the bulk of the diet in the wild. Pets do well on a high quality finch seed mix, to which has been added extra canary grass seed and Japanese and white millet. Paddy rice (unprocessed rice with the kernel-covering intact) is a great favorite, and in the past was often used to induce newly-imported birds to feed.

A bit of egg food should be offered each day, with the quantity increasing when breeding behavior is exhibited. Small amounts of kale, watercress, sprouted seeds and other greens should be provided twice weekly. Live insects are usually ignored, even by breeding pairs.

Grit and both crushed and whole cuttlebone should always be available.

Most Nonpareils accept only a rather limited number of food items. To ensure against nutritional deficiencies, vitamin/mineral supplements should be provided (please write in for specific information).

Breeding

Breeding results vary, as do the observations made by those who have been successful. Colony members seem to come into breeding condition more frequently than do single pairs; squabbles among males are rarely if ever serious. Breeding activity may vary greatly from year to year, despite similar captive conditions. Two molts occur each year; the failure of potential pairs to synchronize their molts is believed by some to interfere with successful reproduction.

The woven, enclosed grass or coco-fiber nest will be constructed in a basket, finch box, thick shrub or other protected space. The 2-6 eggs are incubated by both parents for 13 – 15 days. Soaked seeds, sprouts, additional egg food and chopped greens should be provided to the parents once the young hatch.

The chicks fledge in approximately 21-23 days, and are fed by their parents for an additional week or so. Adult plumage usually appears when they reach 8 months of age.

Parents that are disturbed may abandon their nests. Nonpareil chicks have been successfully fostered by Bengalese Finches.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Barbets – Stunning, Unique Aviary Birds for Experienced Keepers

findiviglio — Wed, 21 Mar 2012 15:52:59 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Barbets combine gorgeous coloration and a unique body plan. Related to woodpeckers and toucans, barbets somehow bring both to mind. I’ve always enjoyed working with them, although a “barbet incident” gave me quite a scare early-on in my career…

“Frank, your barbet is on my fence.”

Some 3 decades ago, while still a novice bird keeper at the Bronx Zoo, I was working in a huge, densely-planted exhibit that housed a pair of Fire-Tufted Barbets (Psilopogon pyrolophus) and other Asian birds. My supervisor rushed in to say that one of my barbets was perched on a fence outside the zoo director’s kitchen window (he lived on the grounds). The director, an internationally-known ornithologist, was rumored to question the curators more closely about the death of “little brown birds” than giraffes. Unlike most exhibits, that housing the barbets did not have a double door, and I had often worried about escapes. So, I thought, there goes my dream job….

The barbets took an eternity to find, but they were in the exhibit. Other keepers had been dispatched to the director’s house, but the bird flew off before they arrived. The director was not known for practical jokes or drinking to excess, so I do believe that he saw a Fire-Tufted Barbet (even though they are not often kept as pets here …).

Description

Large heads, short tails, stocky builds and thick beaks surrounded by bristles at the base have led some to describe barbets as “odd” or even “clumsy-looking”. I prefer “unique”, and in any event the brilliant colors of most make up for any lack of “grace” in their body-plans. The Toucan Barbet (Semnornis ramphastinus), for example, exhibits light and dark blue, black, yellow, copper and bright red in its plumage.

The world’s 75-85 barbet species are classified in the order Piciformes, along with toucans (their closest relatives), honey guides and woodpeckers.

Range and Habitat

Barbets reach their greatest diversity in Africa, where 42 species (Family Lybiidae) have been described. Twenty six species, belonging to the Family Magalaimidae, are found in Asia. Most of the 14 species dwelling in Central and South America (Family Capitonide) are fantastically colored. The Toucan Barbets, (Family Semnornithidae) are also native to Latin America; 2 species have been described.

Most barbets are birds of forest interiors although some, such as the Coppersmith Barbet, inhabit city parks and gardens. The call of this 6-inch-long Asian native sounds like a hammer striking metal. The Coppersmith Barbet’s habit of issuing the call 80-100 times per minute, during the hottest part of the day, has earned it the nickname “Brain Fever Bird” (see video below). Elsewhere, various birds are given similar names…I must say that one dove species did annoy me during afternoons spent working in the hot Venezuelan sun!

Barbets in Captivity

Barbets require a large, well-planted aviary, and are sensitive to cold temperatures and damp conditions. Males may attack non-receptive females, and even larger birds of other species may not be safe. They are best kept alone or in pairs, although I had no problems housing Fire-Tufted Barbets with jay thrushes, bulbuls and Argus Pheasants.

Many individuals become quite bold in time, and will approach closely when offered favored treats.

All barbets are cavity nesters, with most utilizing tree hollows. Those that nest within termite mounds or underground are said to be capable of burrowing out of an aviary – not a capability one usually associates with birds!

Bearded, Gilded, Double-Toothed, White-Headed, Crested, Yellow, D’Arnaud’s and several other species are kept in the USA; please write in for specific information.

Feeding

Although typically thought of as fruit-eaters, many barbets are skillful hunters and nest-raiders as well. I’ve observed them capture anoles, spiders and other animals that were established in their exhibits. Understanding the natural history of the barbets you keep is essential if you are to succeed.

Most fare well on a diet comprised of a wide variety of fruits, berries, figs and dates. The fruit should be coated with a mixture of Insectivorous Bird Food, Softbill Select and Egg Food. Hard boiled egg and some cooked ground beef should be offered regularly.

Crickets, mealworms and other invertebrates are essential to the health of many species, and are indispensible for pairs with chicks; many also relish chopped pink mice. I maintain insect traps, such as the Zoo Med Bug Napper, to help meet the needs of the insectivorous birds under my care. Canned Invertebrates are a convenient means of adding variety to barbet diets.

Water for bathing is a must. Food sometimes collects among the bristles at the base of the bill and must be manually removed. Be careful when doing so, as barbets are capable of inflicting serious wounds with their powerful bills.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Holiday Season Treats and Cautions for Parrot and Finch Owners

findiviglio — Fri, 16 Dec 2011 17:05:43 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Holiday visits and celebrations, pleasurable as they are, can also bring some nasty surprises to both people and pets. A bit of planning now can help make the upcoming season safe and enjoyable for you and your birds.

Stress, Noise and Late Nights

Responsible bird owners know that certain holiday treats and, of course, alcohol, are bad for birds. But many overlook the important role that sleep plays in bird health (please see article below). If you entertain late, or will be out often during the holidays, keep in mind that most birds need 10-12 hours of sleep in a dark, quiet environment. If necessary, move your pet’s cage to an area that is off-limits to guests, and shut the room lights via a timer if the rest of your house will be lit after the usual “lights-out” time. Maintaining a stable day/night cycle is good for your birds mental and physical health.

Holiday parties can mean a house stocked with loud, tipsy guests, excited children and unfamiliar dogs. Each of these “creatures” (especially, those influenced by alcohol!) may take liberties with your pets that they otherwise would not. If it will be difficult for you to monitor all that is going on, consider keeping your birds in a locked room while parties are in progress (or “raging”, as the case may be!).

I’ve worked with parrots that thrived in hectic surroundings, such as busy nature centers and classrooms, but these individuals were exceptions. In general, parrots regard strangers and unusual events as threats. It’s important to remember that, however tame they may be, parrots are not domesticated animals, and remain governed by instincts and behaviors that have evolved over many millions of years.

Canaries, Finches and other Birds

All birds are highly aware of their environments, even though most do not show this as obviously as do parrots. Wild finches, canaries, doves and softbills are on the menus of a wide array of predators, and they are, therefore, exceedingly cautious by nature. I’ve even had small birds die “of fright” in my hand…please keep the delicate natures of your smaller birds in mind as the holidays approach.

Un-caged Parrots

Parrots that adjust well to strangers, and which spend time out of their cages, face different risks than do their shyer cousins. Most of these threats are well-known, but they bear repeating. Shiny ornaments, unique foods, ribbons, toys and electric wires may all be dangerous to curious pets.

Also, think carefully before offering your parrot a taste of those special holiday foods that may come your way. Since they may not familiar to you, take time to read the list of ingredients. Some hold unpleasant surprises for birds (and us!), even if they “appear” healthful…there’s a lot more than just “fruit” in the typical holiday fruit cake, for example!

Bird-Friendly Treats

I’m not a complete Scrooge…there are many tasty, nutritious surprises that you can buy or make for your pet birds, and for wild ones that you may feed. Please see the article below for holiday snacks that are quite simple to prepare, and check out our line of treats for pet and wild birds.

Gifts for Bird Owners

Need a gift for the bird owners on your list? From simple “build your own bird toys” to extravagant, mansion-like cages, the options are limitless.

In my opinion, Joseph Forshaw’s classic Parrots of the World makes an unbeatable gift for parrot enthusiasts. Covering the natural history of every parrot species and subspecies, it goes way beyond what can be found in typical pet care books, and is an enjoyable read besides.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Mate Aggression in Parrots – Why Parrots Fight with their Partners

findiviglio — Fri, 18 Nov 2011 14:27:16 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. In the wild, the pair-bond between mated parrots often lasts a lifetime. Captive pairs, however, face unique “relationship challenges” that often complicate the mating process. Owners may find it difficult to find two birds that get along, and even long-established pairs may suddenly begin to fight.

Mate Choice

Parrot breeding is rarely as simple as putting 2 birds of the opposite sex together…both males and females can be quite choosy when it comes to selecting a mate. Coloration, behavior, vigor and a host of factors that we do not fully understand all come into play, with the ultimate goal being the production healthy offspring. The process has evolved over millions of years, and works fine in natural situations, where the birds can choose from numerous potential mates.

Captives face an entirely different situation. Even in large breeding groups, they are limited to a fraction of the potential mates that would be available in the wild. Being naturally social, many parrots “give in” and accept whatever mate, or same sex friend, presents itself; parrots that live alone often transfer their need for companionship to human owners.

Imprinting

Owner-bonded birds, especially those that have been hand-raised, often reject mates. One Great Horned Owl that I reared courted me by attempting to stuff mice in my mouth, but attacked or retreated from others of his kind. In many cases, such birds must be kept alone.

Age and Hormone Levels

Differences in age and fluctuating hormone levels can affect pair formation. Older birds, especially if they have lived alone for a time, may be ready to mate before their partners are sexually mature.

Recently-acquired birds will need time to adjust to their new homes. If they are placed into another’s cage, the original bird may seek to bond or mate too quickly. Either may then attack the other.

In natural situations, the hormone levels of mature males and females are in sync, so that both will be ready to mate at the same time. Pets are not often exposed to normal day/night cycles, weather patterns, air pressure changes and other conditions that affect breeding readiness (remember, these factors have molded parrot evolution for millions of years). While captives will survive unnatural conditions, their hormone production can be affected. Therefore, one parrot’s hormones may be stimulating it to reproduce, while its mate is being signaled to avoid reproductive behavior.

Close Confinement

In addition to parrots, I have worked with many other animals that are known to form strong pair bonds or mate for life – cranes, swans, wolves, certain lizards and fishes and even some invertebrates, such as arrow crabs. In just about every situation, the very fact of confinement has led to “domestic disturbances”.

Wild parrots are occupied with the business of surviving for most of their waking hours, and usually are also interacting with others of their kind in addition to their mates. In captivity, their needs for food and shelter are usually met with little or no effort, leaving much idle time. For highly intelligent, active creatures such as parrots, this often translates into self-destructive behaviors and mate aggression (I’ll leave you to draw your own “Idle hands are the devil’s workshop” human parallels!).

What to Look For

Outright aggression is easy to spot, but there can be less obvious signs that all is not well between parrot pairs. A dominant bird’s presence alone can be enough to intimidate its mate, even without physical attacks. Subordinate birds may not have a chance to feed properly, and often appear either nervous or listless. In addition to nutritional problems, the stress of being caged with an aggressor weakens the immune system and will lead to illness and disease.

While males are often the guilty parties when it comes to mate aggression, females can be just as bad. This is especially true where the female is older than the male or has a more dominant personality, and among Eclectus Parrots, where females seem to be the “stronger” sex.

What to Do

Removing the dominant pair member for awhile is useful (and necessary if the other bird is stressed). This may allow the other to mature, or to settle in if it is a new arrival. Do not remove the subordinate animal as it is useful for it accept the cage as its territory. This may give the bird an edge when the dominant individual is returned. Make all introductions slowly…start by putting the two cages near each other and watch your pets’ reactions.

In cases of minor aggression, try reducing boredom by adding variety to the cage’s furnishings, toys, out-of-cage time and so on. In outdoor aviaries, live plants and branches can be used as sight barriers and to allow each bird some privacy.

Please check out my posts on Twitter http://twitter.com/#!/findiviglio and Facebook http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100000972624553. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio.

The Natural History and Captive Care of the Bronze-Winged Parrot

findiviglio — Tue, 15 Nov 2011 17:41:13 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Also known as the Bronze-Winged Pionus, Pionus chalcopterus, this delightful little bird has been somewhat ignored by US parrot keepers until recently. However, it has many fine pet qualities and boasts a beautiful “color scheme” that is not common among its relatives.

Description

The 11-inch-long Bronze-Wing’s beauty lies not in bright, “screaming” plumage but rather in a subtle blend of colors. It may at first appear somewhat dull, but closer inspection will reveal that the body plumage is dark purple to navy blue, and overlain with a bronze tint…quite attractive and ever-changing with light levels. The pink eye ring and pink-edged head feathers add to its unique appearance, and red coverlets decorate the tail.

Natural History

The Bronze-Winged Parrot’s range lies in a narrow band that extends from northwestern Venezuela (where I once unsuccessfully searched for it) through Columbia and Ecuador to northwestern Peru. It is mainly found in wet, mountainous forests, and has been observed at over 9,000 feet above sea level (please see photo). Lowland forests and cleared areas are sometimes utilized as well.

Not much is known about the Bronze-Wing’s life in the wild, as it usually forages high in the forest canopy and is therefore difficult to study. Fruit, especially various figs, is believed to comprise the bulk of the diet. Outside of the breeding season, it forms small groups and large flocks.

Bronze-Winged Parrots as Pets

Bronze-Wings are usually described as “gentle but easily excited”. My own experience is in line with this, and I recommend them for owners with a gentle touch and calm household.

Despite their reputation as “sensitive” parrots, Bronze-Wings have great pet potential, and may reach age 30-40. In the right situation, they remain quite calm and are easily tamed. Once accustomed to their owners, Bronze-Wings enjoy close contact and many become quite playful. Some owners report that males have a tendency to bond closely with one person, and to be aggressive to others.

They are rather quiet as parrots go, although their high-pitched voices are sometimes hard to take. Although not known for extensive vocabularies, many will learn a few words. Like other Pionus parrots, Bronze-Wings will wheeze when stressed, often leading owners to suspect a respiratory infection.

Housing

Although not very large, Bronze-Winged Parrots are quite active and seem especially prone to stress-related disorders when kept in small enclosures. Large cages or aviaries are ideal, and daily out-of-the cage time is essential. Pairs that are closely confined may over-preen one another to the point of severe feather loss.

Some owners report that Bronze-Wings chew and bathe more than most parrots; I have not noticed a significant difference between them and other Pionus parrots in these regards.

Diet

Fruit and greens figure highly in the natural diet of Bronze-Winged Parrots. Perhaps because they are often fed an over-abundance of seeds and nuts, pets have a tendency to become obese.

Provide your Bronze-Wings with a wide variety of fruits and vegetables on a daily basis, and be sure to search out “exotic” varieties if these are not available from your usual store. Pomegranate, prickly pear fruit, apples, kiwi, carrots, peas, corn, dandelion, kale and many other types of produce will be readily accepted (introduce new foods slowly to avoid digestive upset).

The balance of the diet should be comprised of a good small parrot seed mix. Avoid diets formulated for larger species, and be sure to sprout a variety of seeds for them as well (please see article below).

Breeding

Breeding is best attempted in large aviaries. Bronze-Wing clutches average 2-4 eggs, which are incubated for 24-27 days. Only the female incubates, but the male often sits beside her in the nest hollow – the mothers among my readers must, I’m sure, wonder just how “useful” this is!

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Understanding Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease (PBFD)

findiviglio — Sat, 29 Oct 2011 18:15:18 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Also known as Psittacine Circovirus Disease, PBFD, which is incurable, has been identified in over 60 species of wild and captive parrots. It has been much in the news lately, and the questions I’ve received indicate that some of the coverage has been confusing to bird owners. Today I’d like to summarize what we know, and what remains to be done in the battle against PBFD.

PBFD Natural History

The virus that causes PBFD was first described in 1987, when it was discovered in a captive group Orange-Bellied Parrots, a highly endangered species. Further study revealed that the virus occurred naturally in Australia, and likely was endemic there (found nowhere else). The disease is now established worldwide, apparently having been spread by the legal and illegal trade in parrots.

The PBFD virus is an extremely hardy organism, and likely survives for many years in nest hollows and roosting/feeding areas. To date, only one disinfectant, Virkon S, has proven able to kill it. The virus has been found in feather dust, feces and the crop lining of infected birds. Transmission seems to occur in several ways – direct contact with sick birds, inhalation of the virus from dust and feces and via food passed to chicks by parents.

PBFB may incubate within a parrot for 3 weeks to 12 months, during which time symptoms will not be visible. Birds incubating the virus will, however, shed it in the feces and feather dust, and thus infect others. In rare cases, adult parrots may survive PBFD. Unfortunately, they continue to shed the virus even after full recovery.

The Various Forms of PBFD

Three forms on PBFD have been identified. Peracute PBFD affects newly-hatched chicks and is usually fatal within 2-3 weeks. As feather abnormalities are not visible, this form is usually diagnosed only upon necropsy.

Acute PBFD is seen among nestlings that are developing their first feathers, and usually causes death within weeks. Infected birds become lethargic, and may vomit and exhibit abnormal feather growth (please see below).

Adult parrots afflicted with Chronic PBFD exhibit feather abnormalities such as the loss of powder down, curled feathers, retained sheaths and color changes. The beak, especially in cockatoos, may flake and crack, and nails may curl as they grow. Diarrhea, lethargy and vomiting may are often present.

PBFD is most accurately diagnosed via a blood test.

Immune System Effects

In addition to causing feather, nail and beak destruction, PBFD depresses the immune system. Death often results from secondary infections (i.e. septicemia and pneumonia) caused by opportunistic bacteria. Cracks in the beak, and skin wounds caused by abnormal feather growth, likely worsen the situation by providing an easy route for bacterial infection.

Managing PBFD in the Wild

PBFD is considered to be a serious threat to the survival of several rare Australian species, including the Swift, Orange-Bellied and Norfolk Island Green Parrots. Australia’s Environmental Protection and Biodiversity Act provides for a PBFD management program (please see article below).

Research into the development of a vaccine is ongoing, but success is not expected in the near future.

Managing PBFD in Captivity

While there is as yet no cure for PBFD, there are some steps that can be taken to increase the quality of life for infected pets. As is true for all creatures, a proper environment and diet will strengthen the immune system and possibly reduce the severity of the disease or its symptoms. Exposure to sunlight or artificial UVB, a natural photo-period (day/night cycle) and an appropriate diet have been found useful (please see article below).

If you maintain a parrot collection, newly-received individuals should be kept in isolation until they have been checked for PBFD. Due to the severity of the symptoms, one may need to consider euthanasia as the disease progresses.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

The Best Finch and Canary Foods – Commercial Seed and Pellet Diets

findiviglio — Tue, 04 Oct 2011 19:38:45 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Although we are fortunate to have available a wide variety of commercial finch and canary diets, choosing one can be a difficult task. Once a decision is made as to the basic type – seed or pellet – we must then consider the ingredients, which vary from brand to brand. Today I’ll examine some well-known foods and a few often-neglected dietary supplements.

Basic Guidelines

It’s important to remember that finch species vary in their nutritional needs. While many will thrive on the basic diets described below, to achieve optimal health and color the addition of insects, sprouts, fruit, greens and other supplementary foods will be necessary. Depending upon the species, some of these foods can also be used to bring birds into breeding condition. Please post your questions concerning diets for specific finches below, and I’ll provide some suggestions.

Pellet Diets

Pellet-based diets have achieved popularity among parrot keepers and in zoos, but are less commonly used for finches. Their main advantage lies in the fact that birds are prevented from selecting favorite items, as can be done when a variety of seeds is offered. Assuming the product is well-made, birds on pellet diets may consume a more complete diet than those relying upon seeds. Unfortunately, finches are often slow to take pellets. Fruit flavors are commonly used to encourage acceptance.

ZuPreem Fruit Blend Canary and Finch Food

This well-researched pellet offers excellent nutrition and is enriched with 21 vitamins and minerals. Grapes, bananas and oranges, which are favored by many finches, are used to flavor the pellets.

Kaytee Exact Rainbow for Canaries and Finches

Kaytee pellets include dried beet pulp, which may enhance certain feather colors, along with whole eggs for additional protein.

Zoo Vital Canary and Finch Food

This product is unique in that it contains 5 strains of probiotic bacteria, which may increase digestibility. Bananas, pineapple and papaya add additional nutrients and flavor.

Seed Diets

Seed-based diets have been in use for hundreds of years, and are still the most common foods for captive finches and canaries. While individual species’ needs differ, a wide variety of ingredients (in addition to the basics – i.e. various millets, canary grass seed) should be included.

L&M Bonanza Canary and Finch Gourmet Diet

Fifteen different seeds, grains and dried fruits and vegetables assure birds a variety of beneficial nutrients. Extra vitamins and minerals are also included, so check the ingredients against any supplements you might use to avoid overlap.

Pretty Bird Premium Food for Canaries and Finches

This diet includes 10 seed varieties and was formulated to meet the high energy demands and fiber requirements of most finches. Dried fruits and vegetables are not included.

Vitakraft’s Sunseed Vita for Finches

Nigerthistle and 9 other seeds, along with dried pineapple, carrot, papaya, coconut and apples, ensure good basic nutrition for most species.

Supplementary Foods

Millet Sprays

Millet sprays are 8-10 inch long stems with seeds attached, which can be hung from cage bars, perches and toys. All finches and canaries enjoy millet, but the real value of sprays is the exercise and enrichment they provide. Birds typically become very excited when presented with sprays, much more so than when feeding from a bowl.

Higgins Egg Food

Egg Food (whole dried eggs, vegetable protein, and oats) is an ideal way of meeting your birds’ protein requirements. Protein is not given much attention in finch diets, but is especially important at molting time and during the breeding season.

Pretty Bird Softbill Select

This food is intended as a staple diet for toucans, mynas,Pekinrobins and other softbills, but serves well as a supplementary food for finches and canaries. I used softbill pellets as an “insurance item” in the diets of a great many seed-eating birds under my care at the Bronx Zoo. Softbill Select is a soft pellet that contains 12 fruits and vegetables, including spinach, broccoli, dates, sweet potatoes and others that are not commonly included in finch diets.

Post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Using Flowers as Food for Parrots, Finches and other Birds

findiviglio — Wed, 10 Aug 2011 16:24:53 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Sending flowers is a time-honored way of showing affection and concern, but did you know that your parrots and other feathered pets might appreciate a bouquet as well? I’m not suggesting actually having flowers delivered to your parrot (although I know several who have done that!), but rather that you consider edible flowers as a source of bird food and behavioral enrichment.

The Role of Flowers in Bird Diets

Flowers, buds and nectar figure heavily in the natural diets of many parrots, finches and softbills. In fact, lories and lorikeets are actually “floral specialists” (please see drawing of lorikeet tongue, adapted for nectar feeding). However, with the exception of nectar-mixes, flowers have largely been ignored by most pet keepers.

Flowers are also a major food item of several less commonly-kept softbills, including hummingbirds, sunbirds and the aptly-named flower-peckers. Ornithologists speculate that the brilliant colors of some species may have evolved to provide camouflage during feeding sessions in flowering trees.

Behavioral Stimulation

In addition to their nutritional value, flowers can provide important behavioral stimulation for parrots and other birds. Most parrots delight in tearing them to bits, and bud-covered fruit tree branches (apple, pear, plum etc.) will provide hours of entertainment for both pet and pet-owner. Finches, White-Eyes, Pekin Robins and other small birds will also poke about in flowers for insect treats, real or “imagined”, and may consume petals and nectar as well.

Purchasing Flowers

Fortunately, it’s quite simple to incorporate flowers into your birds’ diets. Many bird-safe flowers are relished by people, and are available in food stores. In NYC markets, I’ve come across squash, zucchini, rose and daylily flowers (note: not all daylilies are safe for people or birds, so do not pick your own), as well as a number that I did not recognize. Korean, Chinese and Indian neighborhoods have proven especially rich flower-hunting grounds.

Do not buy edible flowers from garden supply outlets or florists, as these will not have been slated for human consumption and would likely have been exposed to toxic chemicals.

Dried flowers specifically marketed as bird food are also a useful option. Goldenfeast’s Hibiscus and Chamomile

may be offered to a variety of parrots, finches and softbills.

Growing and Collecting Flowers for Your Birds

If the option is available to you, growing your own edible flowers is a great alternative to shopping.

Harvesting wild flowers is also possible, but you must be confident in your ability to identify the various species and have access to a pesticide-free collecting site. A field guide will be useful in this regard.

Common, Easy-to-Grow Edible Flowers

The following common flowers are readily accepted by many birds and can easily be grown or, in some cases, purchased at food markets. Do not buy flowers intended as food anywhere other than at a food market; please see above.

Daisy Marigold

Dandelion Rose

Carnation Sunflower

Violet Zucchini Blossoms

Tulip Squash Blossoms

Elderberry Hibiscus

Impatiens Apple,Plum and Pear Blossoms

Please also post your questions and comments here…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Heat Stroke in Parrots, Finches and other Birds – Symptoms and Treatment

findiviglio — Wed, 03 Aug 2011 15:36:27 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. In a recent article, I suggested some techniques that can be used to keep your birds cool and safe during hot weather (please see article below). Today I’d like to take a look at recognizing and dealing with heat stress and heat stoke.

Note: the attached photos depict some North American birds that are well-adapted to desert habitats – the Roadrunner, Gila Woodpecker and Elf Owl.

Dangerous Places and Temperatures

Wild birds and pets kept in large outdoor aviaries rarely experience heat-related problems, no matter how high temperatures climb (of course there are limits – don’t try keeping your pet penguin outdoors in Las Vegas!).

Small cages in direct sunlight present a real danger, but closed cars and unventilated rooms are the main places where pets suffer heat stroke. In NYC, I’ve recorded temperatures of 103-105 F in an attic apartment, and 155 F in a parked car. Temperatures can build to these levels very quickly, and can be fatal to birds in mere minutes.

Symptoms

As heat stress sets in, an afflicted bird will spread its wings out from the body and pump its throat in-and-out in a panting motion. Known as gular flapping, this behavior will cause heat to be lost to the air, and is the avian version of sweating (birds lack sweat glands). Treatment instituted at this point will usually prevent heat stroke.

As time goes on, a heat stressed parrot or other bird will adopt what can only be described as a “glassy-eyed stare”, and may be unresponsive to stimuli such as noise. It is now progressing from heat stress to heat stroke. The bird will rock back and forth and be unsteady on its feet. In the final stages, the victim will fall over and the body may go into convulsions. The actual “stroke” appears to be caused by clots that prevent blood from travelling through the vessels supplying the bird’s brain.

Treating Heat Stress

Quick action must be taken when a bird exhibits signs of heat stress or stroke. In cases of heat stress, fans and air conditioners should be employed when possible…a quick change in air temperature will not severely stress the bird. Provide a bath as well, perhaps standing the bird in it to encourage its use. Gatoraide can be added to the bath and/or drinking water.

Heat stress that does not progress to stroke still warrants a visit to the veterinarian. Your pet’s immune system has been taxed by the event, and so minor, undetected health problems may suddenly become serious. Long term, low-grade heat stress is also hard on the immune system, so be sure to always keep your pets at the optimal temperature for their species (please write in if you need specific information on this).

Treating Heat Stroke

A bird in the throes of heat stoke must be treated immediately and then transported to a veterinarian if death is to be avoided.

Bath the bird in cool but not ice-cold water (unlike quick air temperature changes, an icy bath can do more harm than good). Mix a bit of hand or dish soap into the bath water to defeat the feathers’ oily water-proofing; cool water will have a better effect when actually in contact with the skin. Wrap your pet in a cool towel and, if time permits, wrap some ice or an ice-substitute in a towel and apply to the base of the beak and feet. Above all, drive carefully on the way to the vet’s office – common sense, I know, but I have stories….

Please also post your questions and comments here…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Understanding Parrots – “Bad” Pet Behavior may be Perfectly-Normal

findiviglio — Thu, 21 Jul 2011 14:00:32 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Parrots are complicated, social animals, and as such can be very confusing to owners. What is perceived as “bad” or “destructive” behavior has roots in millions of years of evolution. Understanding your parrot’s natural history – how it lives in the wild – is key to your pet’s welfare, and a rewarding relationship with it.

Understanding Your Bird’s “Wild Side”

Good parrot care begins with a thorough understanding of parrot natural history. Parrot ancestors arose 100 million years ago…your own intentions, however well-meaning, will never overpower the instincts that have evolved since then. This is a very important point to keep in mind – parrots are wild creatures, driven by instinct, and, even after many generations in captivity, are in no sense domesticated (i.e. as are dogs or sheep). They do have remarkable learning abilities that often enable them to modify their instinctual responses. However, when considering parrot care and training, it is paramount that their true natures be considered.

Researching natural history should be the starting for learning about the captive care of any creature, be it spider, budgie or elephant. This is well-known in the zoo world, and has never failed me. However, perhaps due to the wide availability of pet care info, parrot owners sometimes tend to skip natural history books altogether. It doesn’t help that such books are rarely written these days.

Natural History Resources

Books such as Joseph Forshaw’s classic Parrots of the World will provide you with direct observations of what your parrot actually does in the wild. Knowing about such matters as habitat, enemies, feeding and breeding biology, social structure and cycles of activity is critical. This will help you understand what you are seeing in captivity, and enable you to better meet the pet’s physical and psychological needs.

I frequently post articles on parrot natural history on this blog as well… please see the article below for an example, and feel free to write in concerning your bird.

Pitfalls

Unfortunately, captive behavior can be confusing, even for those well-versed in the natural behavior of parrots. This is because natural habitats and social situations are impossible to duplicate in captivity, and pet parrots are exposed to situations that evolution has not prepared them for. So they react as best they can, and in many cases we are unable to understand what is going on.

Some Basic Behavioral Concepts

A complete review of this subject would fill several books. Following are some basic concepts that will hopefully illustrate the importance of understanding your parrot’s “wild side”.

Parrots and their eggs are on the menu of a host of predatory birds, mammals and reptiles. They are primed to be alert, to (usually) stay above possible threats, and to rely on warnings from both companions and other bird species. A single parrot in an exposed location may be terribly stressed, even in predator-free surroundings.

When observing wild parrots, I’m always amazed at the degree of social interaction and communication that goes on between mates and flock members. The group is usually as important as the mate. As with dogs, the innate sociability of parrots can be exploited to our benefit (deprived of companions, they bond with us), but please understand that even a mated captive pair is not living in a natural situation. Likewise, an hour or two of your company in the evening in no way fills a parrot’s social needs.

Vocalizations are critical to survival. Expecting a quiet parrot is usually not reasonable, but understanding parrot sounds may make life easier for both of you; please see the article below for details.

Parrots spend most of their time – hours each day – finding and processing food. Pets that can meet their needs in 10 minutes at the food dish are left with a great deal of time on their hands (or feet, as the case may be)…boredom is one of the chief impediments to a happy, healthy pet parrot.

Well, I’ve just scratched the surface here…but as you can see, parrots of any kind are very demanding, and owning one should not be entered into lightly. Please post your questions and comments here…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Please also check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

That Bird Blog » Bird Health

Breeding and Keeping the Nonpareil Finch or Pin-Tailed Parrot Finch

Description

Range and Habitat

Keeping Nonpareils

Enclosure

Light, Heat and Humidity

Diet

Breeding

Further Reading

Barbets – Stunning, Unique Aviary Birds for Experienced Keepers

“Frank, your barbet is on my fence.”

Description

Range and Habitat

Barbets in Captivity

Feeding

Further Reading

Holiday Season Treats and Cautions for Parrot and Finch Owners

Stress, Noise and Late Nights

Canaries, Finches and other Birds

Un-caged Parrots

Bird-Friendly Treats

Gifts for Bird Owners

Further Reading

Mate Aggression in Parrots – Why Parrots Fight with their Partners

Mate Choice

Imprinting

Age and Hormone Levels

Close Confinement

What to Look For

What to Do

Further Reading

The Natural History and Captive Care of the Bronze-Winged Parrot

Description

Natural History

Bronze-Winged Parrots as Pets

Housing

Diet

Breeding

Further Reading

Understanding Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease (PBFD)

PBFD Natural History

The Various Forms of PBFD

Immune System Effects

Managing PBFD in the Wild

Managing PBFD in Captivity

Further Reading

The Best Finch and Canary Foods – Commercial Seed and Pellet Diets

Basic Guidelines

Pellet Diets

Seed Diets

Supplementary Foods

Further Reading

Using Flowers as Food for Parrots, Finches and other Birds

The Role of Flowers in Bird Diets

Behavioral Stimulation

Purchasing Flowers

Growing and Collecting Flowers for Your Birds

Common, Easy-to-Grow Edible Flowers

Further Reading

Heat Stroke in Parrots, Finches and other Birds – Symptoms and Treatment

Dangerous Places and Temperatures

Symptoms

Treating Heat Stress

Treating Heat Stroke

Further Reading

Understanding Parrots – “Bad” Pet Behavior may be Perfectly-Normal

Understanding Your Bird’s “Wild Side”

Natural History Resources

Pitfalls

Some Basic Behavioral Concepts

Further Reading