That Bird Blog » Bird diet

Breeding and Keeping the Nonpareil Finch or Pin-Tailed Parrot Finch

findiviglio — Thu, 28 Feb 2013 20:12:28 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. When translated to English, the French language name for this little finch – Nonpareil – means “without equal”. The name suits the gorgeous bird perfectly…so much so that aviculturists of all nationalities have adopted it. Also known as the Pin-Tailed Parrot Finch (Erythrura prasina), the brilliantly-colored Nonpareil has long been among the most desired of all Southeast Asian finches.

My first experience with these beauties came while working for a bird importer. I was captivated by their colors, but despaired over the stress caused them by shipment and confinement to quarantine facilities. Fortunately, an experienced private breeder helped me to learn the keys to keeping them alive and well.

Description

The 5.5 inch-long male Nonpareils are clad in “grass green”, bright red and brilliant blue, and sport elongated central tail feathers. Females have shorter tails and are not as gaudy, but are also quite colorful. While most related parrot finches are attractive (please see photos), none are as spectacular as the Nonpareil.

Yellow-bellied individuals are found in some wild populations, but are not common in captivity. Birds originating from Borneo have more blue in the plumage, and are considered by most to be a subspecies. Although few aviculturists see any need to experiment with color mutations, largely-green and pied strains have been established.

Range and Habitat

Nonpareils range from Myanmar through Thailand, Malaysia, Borneo, Sumatra and Java.

Habitat preferences are not well-studied, but they are most often observed along moist forest fringes and in bamboo thickets, brushy river edges and overgrown areas near rice farms.

Keeping Nonpareils

Nonpareils are notoriously shy and a bit high-strung, but when properly housed are quite hardy, and a delight to observe. They do well in colonies, and most successful breeders report they are best kept in this manner.

If confined to small cages or denied cover and visual barriers, Nonpareils will not thrive. When startled, they may fly into cage walls and become injured, especially if their enclosure is not correctly set-up.

Enclosure

Nonpareils forage almost entirely above-ground, and are not comfortable when forced to feed on the cage floor. They must be supplied with elevated shelves and perches. Tiny forest-dwellers are on the menu of myriad predators, so Nonpareils are consequently very ill-at-ease in open situations. Dried or live grass clumps, hanging potted plants and bushes should be always be positioned about the aviary to prevent their becoming stressed.

The need for security and ample cover is one of the most important considerations in the husbandry of Nonpareils. While aviary-style indoor cages may work if one takes great care, outdoor aviaries or homemade indoor cages are the best options. Please see this site for an example of a well-planned indoor aviary.

Nonpareils, even those well-habituated to captivity, tend to hide when their enclosure is approached. Allowing them to remain out-of-sight when necessary will encourage a sense of security that will translate into healthier pets.

It is important to avoid startling Nonpareils – i.e. by suddenly illuminating a dark room – as they may explode into flight and injure themselves.

Light, Heat and Humidity

Full spectrum light, while not essential, may encourage breeding and other natural behaviors in Nonpareils that are housed indoors.

Native to warm, moist habitats, Nonpareils be kept at temperatures of 72-76 F and a humidity range of 50-60%. Temperatures to 90 F, and quite humid conditions, have been successfully used by some keepers.

Diet

Grass seeds form the bulk of the diet in the wild. Pets do well on a high quality finch seed mix, to which has been added extra canary grass seed and Japanese and white millet. Paddy rice (unprocessed rice with the kernel-covering intact) is a great favorite, and in the past was often used to induce newly-imported birds to feed.

A bit of egg food should be offered each day, with the quantity increasing when breeding behavior is exhibited. Small amounts of kale, watercress, sprouted seeds and other greens should be provided twice weekly. Live insects are usually ignored, even by breeding pairs.

Grit and both crushed and whole cuttlebone should always be available.

Most Nonpareils accept only a rather limited number of food items. To ensure against nutritional deficiencies, vitamin/mineral supplements should be provided (please write in for specific information).

Breeding

Breeding results vary, as do the observations made by those who have been successful. Colony members seem to come into breeding condition more frequently than do single pairs; squabbles among males are rarely if ever serious. Breeding activity may vary greatly from year to year, despite similar captive conditions. Two molts occur each year; the failure of potential pairs to synchronize their molts is believed by some to interfere with successful reproduction.

The woven, enclosed grass or coco-fiber nest will be constructed in a basket, finch box, thick shrub or other protected space. The 2-6 eggs are incubated by both parents for 13 – 15 days. Soaked seeds, sprouts, additional egg food and chopped greens should be provided to the parents once the young hatch.

The chicks fledge in approximately 21-23 days, and are fed by their parents for an additional week or so. Adult plumage usually appears when they reach 8 months of age.

Parents that are disturbed may abandon their nests. Nonpareil chicks have been successfully fostered by Bengalese Finches.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Goffin’s Cockatoo Invents and Modifies a Tool – a Parrot “First”

findiviglio — Wed, 26 Dec 2012 17:08:20 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. A Goffin’s Cockatoo living at the Vienna University stunned researchers by exhibiting behaviors never before seen in any parrot species. The bird, known as Figaro, went far beyond “mere” tool use. When confronted with an out-of-reach treat, he first searched for a stick to use, and then modified the stick so as to better suit it for his purposes. Figaro’s accomplishments are especially surprising because he had not been trained in any way, nor had he observed other tool-using birds. He seems to have “envisioned” a concept and acted upon it. Please post your own “smart parrot” stories below.

Spontaneous and Unexpected Tool Use

Parrots are considered among the most intelligent of birds, but tool use has not been documented in their ranks. True, the majestic Palm Cockatoo bangs wood against hollow trees in order to communicate (please see this article) and many species wedge nuts into crevices to ease the job of opening them, but advanced tool use seemed beyond their abilities.

Figaro’s talents came to light purely by chance. A researcher happened to be nearby when Figaro dropped a stone behind a metal cage divider. Unable to reach the plaything with his feet, the enterprising cockatoo flew off and returned with a piece of bamboo. He used the bamboo to push the stone within reach.

Intrigued, the researcher tempted Figaro with a nut and a stick that was not long enough to reach the treat. Undaunted, the cockatoo used his powerful beak to remove a long wood splinter from the cage’s wooden floor, and then swept the nut within reach with the new tool. In time, Figaro made a variety of tools from the floor and a tree branch, modifying them to fit each situation and always succeeding in retrieving his rewards (please see video and photos of tools linked below).

Another Goffin’s Cockatoo who watched Figaro perform his magic tried to imitate him when tested. This bird did not succeed, but perhaps will improve in time. This unique situation may provide an interesting opportunity to study the evolution of learning abilities…I’ll post future updates.

Crows, Herons and other Avian Inventors

Crows, Ravens and their relatives (Family Corvidae) excel at fashioning and using tools. In fact, it has been suggested that Ravens’ abilities in this area rival those of the Great Apes. In Japan, I saw evidence of the intelligence of the local Carrion Crows, which not only use passing cars to break nuts but also seem to understand the functioning of traffic lights! New Caledonian Crows have proven unbelievably inventive, going though several steps and a number of different tools in order to obtain a reward. Please see articles linked below for more on these fascinating birds.

Green Herons are quite adept at recognizing and using tools to improve their fishing success. Wild individuals drop small sticks on the water’s surface to lure fish close enough for a strike, while those colonizing fish farms will do the same with trout chow and bread (please see video below). I was once impressed by the behavior of a related species. For quite some time, I fed fish to a wild Night Heron that lived near an outdoor exhibit under my care at the Bronx Zoo (please see photo). The bird never failed to appear when I arrived, yet did not show up on my weekends, even though co-workers wore the same uniform and carried the same food bucket (studies show that Mockingbirds can recognize individual human faces…please see this article).

Goffin’s Cockatoos in the Wild and Captivity

Goffin’s Cockatoos are captive bred in large numbers but endangered in the wild. Listed on CITES Appendix I, they are endemic to Indonesia’s Tanimbar Islands. Introduced populations live on Tual Island (Indonesia) and in Singapore. Please see the articles below for more on their natural history and captive care.

Want to brag about your bird’s intelligence? Please post your stories below!

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Keeping the Tawny Frogmouth with Notes on its Natural History

findiviglio — Thu, 23 Aug 2012 16:41:45 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Photos of the Tawny Frogmouth (Podargus strigoides), with its huge yellow eyes, gaping mouth, “expressive face” (an impression given by the feathery “eyebrows”) and owl-like plumage, have captivated me since childhood. For years, I stalked Whip-poor-wills, Nighthawks and other of its relatives that dwelled in the USA. Actual contact with a Frogmouth was delayed, however, until I began working at the Bronx Zoo. But it was worth the wait, and I soon came to spend many days and nights cramming food into the capricious maws of hungry Frogmouth chicks…as much to my delight as theirs!

Classification

Although superficially resembling an owl in plumage, silent flight mode and nocturnal ways, the Tawny Frogmouth is classified in the order Caprimulgiformes. Numbered among this group’s 118 members is the cave-dwelling Oilbird, the only bird known to navigate via echo-location.

Tawny Frogmouths are placed in the family Podargidae, along with 14 relatives. Three Tawny Frogmouth subspecies – the largest being 3x the size of the smallest – have been described. Other species include the Papuan Frogmouth, of the Cape York Peninsula and New Guinea, and the Marbled Frogmouth, a rainforest dweller found in northern Queensland and New Guinea.

The 8 North American relations belong to the family Caprimulgidae (loosely translated as “goat-suckers”). I’ve observed 2 of these, the Whip-poor-will (Caprimulgus vociferous) and the Common Nighthawk (Chordeiles minor), in the heart of NYC. In fact, the swooping, erratic flight of Nighthawks, which resemble outsized bats, was a common sight over Bronx buildings in my youth. Flat rooftops serve Nighthawks as nest sites, but their numbers have declined in recent years. The Chuck-will’s-widow (Caprimulgus carolinensis), first recorded in New York in 1975, has been observed nesting on Staten and Long Island.

Captive Care

You’ll need to visit a zoo if you wish to see a Tawny Frogmouth in the USA, but wildlife rehabilitators in Australia are frequently called upon to care for displaced chicks and injured individuals.

During the day, Frogmouths perch on dead limbs, relying on their mottled plumage to provide camouflage. They often stretch upward, in imitation of a branch, as well. Frogmouths make great exhibit animals, content to perch in full view all day; however, they do become stressed if denied logs or stumps. I’ve kept several in exhibits lit by red bulbs, where they have proven to be surprisingly active.

Rearing Chicks

Frogmouths under my care bred well but did not always raise their chicks successfully. Hand-rearing, however, was usually successful.

Frogmouth chicks have appetites that match their enormous mouths, and, even by baby bird standards, consume an amazing amount of food. Chopped mice are the standard zoo diet, but given that they are largely insectivorous, I experimented with other foods as well. Roaches, grasshoppers, moths, earthworms, insectivorous bird diet, beef heart and other such foods were eagerly consumed.

I do not have my old notes on hand, but recent studies have shown that hand-reared Frogmouth chicks often gain 8-9 grams per day, consistently, before fledging.

Adult Diet

Most zoos provide only mice or chicks to their Tawny Frogmouths. I’ve cared for several that have bred and lived into their early teens on this diet, so it appears adequate. However, my Frogmouths showed a very strong response to large insects, especially roaches and grasshoppers. While it’s difficult to maintain birds of this size on invertebrates alone, occasional meals certainly add to their quality of life.

Although mainly ambush predators that pounce on prey from above, Frogmouths also hunt actively…at least when stimulated by novel foods. They have also been observed chasing moths around street lights.

Close Call with a Cassowary (for me and a frogmouth!)

Frogmouths remain largely immobile, but are very aware of their surroundings…a fact I learned the hard way. After working with one individual for some time, I came to expect him to remain perched on his favorite stump as I serviced his cage in one of the Bronx Zoo’s off-exhibit areas. He did…until he didn’t!

One day, he flew past me and out the door…taking off without a sound when I turned my back. Knowing that birds sense and follow air currents, I first ran to close the building’s unscreened kitchen window (a notably foolish feature in a bird building!). I returned to find that the wayward Frogmouth had flown into the pen occupied by Margie, a notoriously ill-tempered Cassowary (please see article below). The Frogmouth froze, head stretched up, in the species’ classic camouflage pose – perplexing Margie enough to make her pause. She circled, itching to kick the intruder into oblivion, but did not charge. I grabbed a “push board”, entered, and was able to catch the frightened Frogmouth before either of us could be attacked.

Natural History

Range

The Tawny Frogmouth is found across the length and breadth of Australia, and also occurs on Tasmania and several offshore islands.

Habitat

Although most common in sparsely-wooded scrub and forest clearings, the Tawny Frogmouth also inhabits rainforest edges, overgrown farmland, gardens and city parks. It is absent from deserts and rainforest interiors.

Diet

Field studies have shown that beetles, moths, spiders, centipedes, snails and other invertebrates make up approximately 95% of the diet. Frogs, lizards and small mammals comprise the balance.

Most Frogmouths drink infrequently, if at all.

Breeding

Reproduction occurs seasonally in most habitats, or in response to rains in arid regions. Most observers report that the male incubates the 2-3 eggs by day, with both parents entering the nest cavity at night. The eggs hatch in 27-31 days and the chicks, which are fed by both parents, fledge when they are approximately 1 month old.

Conservation

Although most populations are stable, cats, foxes and cars pose increasing threats. Secondary pesticide poisoning is also a concern.

Torpor

Tawny Frogmouths can tolerate quite high and low temperatures. In common with several related species, they can become torpid during cold nights – hibernating, in essence, for short periods.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Pygmy Parrots – Thumb-Sized Lichen-Eaters that move like Woodpeckers

findiviglio — Wed, 16 May 2012 15:45:04 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. I recently attended a fascinating lecture on Island Bird Diversity at the American Museum of Natural History. Two Pygmy Parrot species – the Red-Breasted (Micropsitta bruijni) and the Finsch’s (M. finschii) – drew the speaker to the Solomon Islands. In reflecting back on the talk afterwards, I realized that, despite my interest, I had yet to observe a live Pygmy Parrot. They’ve never been in the collection of the Bronx Zoo, where I worked for over 20 years, and only rarely appear in museums. Further research turned up one interesting field report, but it seems that we still know very little about these smallest and, arguably, most unusual of all parrots.

The World’s Smallest Parrots

Six species of Pygmy Parrots inhabit New Guinea, the Solomons and neighboring islands. They look, in most respects, like other parrots – but barely exceed a human thumb in size! At 3.5 inches in length, the Buff-Faced Pygmy parrot (M. pusio) is the smallest Psittacine; its relatives are not much bigger. Please see the video below…it is hard to believe they are real!

Singular Feeding Adaptations

Small size is not their only unique characteristic. Pygmy Parrots are believed to rely heavily upon lichen and tree fungus as food, the only parrots to do so. In 1942, the Red-Breasted Pygmy Parrot became the first Psittacine ever observed to feed upon fungus, which was described as a “jelly-like species growing on bark”. Unfortunately, our knowledge of its diet pretty much stalled at that point! While Kakapos, Keas and other parrots are known to consume lichen, only Pygmy Parrots have adaptations that allow them to specialize in harvesting it.

Adaptations to this odd diet include short tails with stiff, outwardly-projecting feather shafts, elongated toes and long, curved nails. Aided by these structures, Pygmy Parrots “creep” up and down tree trunks as they search for food; several have even been observed to move headfirst down trees (please see the accompanying photo of a nuthatch for an example). Similar structures have been evolved by woodpeckers, creepers and nuthatches, all of which also forage in the same manner as Pygmy Parrots. Woodpeckers and their relatives use this hunting style to find insects, not lichen; some (or all?) Pygmy Parrots consume insects as well as lichen.

Field Observations

An informative Pygmy Parrot article is posted on BirdForum.net, an interesting site where I sometimes record my own wild bird observations. Although not a long-term study, the notes detail some of the best field observations available (please see article below). The author worked on New Ireland, which lies in the Bismarck Archipelago, and spent some time observing the Finsch’s Pygmy Parrot.

Finsch’s Pygmy Parrots were most often seen foraging on Pometia tomentosa, a broadleaf tree. Local people confirmed that the birds, which are not uncommon, seem to favor that tree above others. Moving about like tiny squirrels, the minute parrots stripped bark from the trees, leaving characteristic scars. They seemed to be feeding on butterfly, moth or beetle larvae rather than lichen, at least when observed on Pometia trunks. Virtually nothing is known of their total diet, as observations are difficult once they enter heavy cover; as far as I know, Pygmy Parrots have never survived long in captivity.

Insect larvae may be a significant food source for the Finsch’s Pygmy Parrot, but more research in needed. Sadly, the parrots under observation abandoned the area after some boys harassed them with slingshots. It is not known how this species is affected by humans (other than being pelted with rocks!), but Pygmy Parrots generally seem able to adapt to modest habitat disturbance.

Learning More

I’m now searching The Auk and other sources for additional Pygmy Parrot information…anything that you might be able to pass along would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Green-Cheeked Conures – Captive Care and Natural History

findiviglio — Wed, 18 Apr 2012 16:35:45 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. The decision to purchase or adopt a parrot requires careful consideration. For all their wonderful qualities, these intelligent, social birds are very demanding of one’s time and finances, and not suited to all homes. One species, however, stands out as an “almost” safe bet. The Green-Cheeked Conure (Pyrrhura molinae) adapts well to many different situations, and is less likely to display the behaviors that frustrate so many parrot owners. Although not trouble-free, it may well be the best choice for many parrot enthusiasts.

Pet Qualities

The word “fun” invariably arises when Green-Cheeked Conure owners speak about their pets. Even by parrot standards, they are curious and playful. Their affectionate nature and willingness to be coddled is often compared to that of a well-socialized cockatoo. These qualities, along with their small size, have skyrocketed Green-Cheeks into prominence in the pet trade. When I first began working for NYC bird importers in the 1970’s, they were unknown, and were uncommon as recently as 20 years ago.

Despite being a mere 10 inches in length, Green-Cheeks are surprisingly bold. Yet while they will defend themselves, most are good-natured if handled properly. Many enjoy “wresting” with their owners, pets such as rabbits, and even “bird-safe” dogs. Their demeanor suits them well to active, noisy households. They definitely take and interest in nearby hustle and bustle; several kept at large in a friend’s store act more like staff than birds, no matter how crowded it gets!

Although Green-Cheeked Conures do not have a reputation as talented mimics, many do learn to speak reasonably well, and even to use words in context (i.e. “Hi, I’m hungry!” when owner appears). Like all conures, their voices are harsh, but definitely on the “soft” side (by parrot standards!), and they tend not to develop screaming problems.

Other Considerations

Green-Cheeked Conures are highly social, and need companionship and interaction with other birds or people. An hour or so of contact each day is not sufficient. A pair will keep one-another occupied…considering their small size, this may be an ideal option for those with busy schedules.

Color Phases

Maroon, blue, gray and green all appear in the Green-Cheek’s plumage. Given the small natural range, there is a surprising degree of variation among the 6 described subspecies. Some ornithologists believe that their taxonomy needs revision, and that new species may be named in time. The Yellow-sided Conure, formerly classified as a distinct species, is now considered to be a color variation of the Green Cheek.

Fanciful names such as “Sun Cheek”, “Turquoise” and “Pineapple” describe the beautiful color morphs have been developed. Please see the article below for photos of each.

Range and Habitat

The Green-Cheeked Conure is limited in distribution to the Mato Grosso region of Brazil, northwestern Argentina and northeastern Bolivia. It generally stays within or near forested habitats.

Natural History

Despite its popularity in the pet trade, the Green Cheeked Conure has not been well-studied in the wild. A 2007 study, one of the few that focused solely on this species, indicated that a flexible feeding strategy allowed it to survive in diverse, harsh habitats (Braz. J of Biology, 2007 67(2):243-9).

In regions where some trees retained their leaves throughout the dry season, resident conures fed upon the flowers, seeds, fruit and/or arils (tasty structures designed to lure parrots and other seed-dispersers) of 16 tree species. Figs comprised 70% of the diets of Green-Cheeks dwelling in forests in which other dry-season foods were lacking. Please see the article below for further information.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Meyer’s Lorikeet – Natural History and Captive Care

findiviglio — Mon, 02 Apr 2012 18:46:01 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Most parrot aficionados know of the Meyer’s Parrot, but the beautiful green lorikeet bearing the same “first name” is relatively unstudied in the wild, and not commonly kept here in the USA. The Meyer’s Lorikeet (Trichoglossus flavoviridus mayeri), a subspecies of the Yellow-and-Green Lorikeet, differs from many related species in both coloration and social behavior. A forest-dweller confined to a single island, this unique bird deserves the attention of aviculturists now, while wild populations are still relatively stable.

Description

Three shades of green color the plumage of the 8-inch-long Meyer’s Lorikeet. The breast feathers and those behind the eye are tipped with yellow, and the bill is bright orange. While lacking the “flamboyant” reds and blues often associated with lorikeets, it is quite spectacular in appearance.

Range

The Meyer’s Lorikeet is endemic (found nowhere else) to Sulawesi, in Indonesia’s Greater Sunda Island chain. Sulawesi lies at a unique crossroad where animals originating in Australia and those from mainland Asia are found together. Over half of the island’s 125+ mammal species are endemic and most, such as the Anoa, Cuscus and Babirusa, are quite unusual and not well-known.

Although birds are more mobile than mammals, 34% of Sulawesi’s 400+ species “stay put”, and are found nowhere else on earth. Perhaps the most unique of these is the Maleo, the only bird that incubates its eggs by burying them in sand, in “crocodile-like” fashion (please see photo). Females test the soil’s temperature with specialized sensors in the bill, but other than adjusting the amount of cover offer no maternal care. Maleo chicks emerge from their subterranean nests well-able to fly and fend for themselves.

Habitat

Meyer’s Lorikeets are limited to mountainous forests (please see photo), where they reside at elevations of 1,700-6,000+ feet. The many shades of green that color their plumage render these arboreal feeders difficult to observe among the foliage.

They also appear in lowland areas where forests remain intact, and will sometimes venture out into open country when favored flowers are in bloom. However, both older and current accounts indicate that heavy forest cover is essential Meyer’s Lorikeet habitat.

These shy but noisy birds are often observed in the company of gaily-colored Ornate Lorikeets – quite a sight, I imagine!

Conservation

Meyer’s Lorikeet populations appear stable, but their status has not been well studied. Mountainsides within their range remain largely forested, which is a good sign. However, like all island endemics, they are especially vulnerable to habitat loss and other disturbances. The species is listed on Appendix II of CITES.

Meyer’s Lorikeets in Captivity

Meyer’s Lorikeets are not common in zoos or private collections in the USA, but have been bred by aviculturists in Europe and Asia. They are as “food oriented” as their relatives, but are somewhat shy initially and less likely to hand feed right away.

Although lories and lorikeets are notoriously difficult to house communally, especially during the breeding season (please see the article below), Meyer’s Lorikeets may sometimes be bred in small groups. They are best housed in an outdoor aviary (or, in cold weather, a bird room) that is equipped with a drain to allow for cleaning via hose. Spacious quarters, well stocked with branches and other diversions, are essential to the well-being of all parrots, but especially the very active and acrobatic lorikeets.

Loud shrill calls (please click here for a recording) are a fact of lorikeet life, and should be taken into consideration by prospective keepers.

Diet

Feeding is a major consideration in the husbandry of all lorikeets; none will thrive unless provided with a highly nutritious, carefully-planned diet.

Lory nectar mixed with a bit of molasses and soft food can form the basis of their diet, but this must be supplemented by other foods.

A wide variety of fruits and vegetables, including apples, pears, peaches, oranges, star fruit, kiwi, figs, banana, soft carrots, corn, Swiss chard, dandelion, and as many others as will be accepted, should be offered on a daily basis. Meyer’s Lorikeets will also take small amounts of millet and canary seed.

A paste of hard boiled eggs (ground with shells), egg food, cottage cheese and cooked carrots, sweetened with molasses, will provide necessary protein. Try mixing in some mealworms, crickets and other insects as well – I’ve found that some lorikeet species will accept these.

Lorikeets can be fussy…it is important to experiment until you find the proper mix or mode of presentation that works best in inducing your birds to accept the greatest variety of nutritious foods.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

The Natural History and Captive Care of the Red-Headed Finch or Paradise Sparrow

findiviglio — Wed, 18 Jan 2012 16:59:03 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. The Red-Headed Finch (Amadina erythrocephala) somewhat resembles its more familiar cousin, the Cutthroat Finch, but is a bit larger and, in my opinion, even more striking in appearance. It is also a more reliable breeder than the Cutthroat and, if properly cared for, may live for over a decade. Many keepers report that their Red-Headed Finches mimic sounds, and the songs of other birds, quite well.

Description

In place of the Cutthroat Finch’s attractive splash of color (please see photo), the male has a bright red or crimson head, and his breast is beautifully marked with black-rimmed white spots. Females lack the red head and are more somberly-colored in general.

The alternate common name, Paradise Sparrow, is apt – in part due to the brilliant plumage but also because this 5 ¼ inch-long bird is stoutly built, and puts one more in mind of a sparrow than a typical finch.

Natural History

The Red-Headed Finch inhabits southern Africa, where it ranges from Angola through Zimbabwe to South Africa.

It is a bird of open thorn-scrub habitats and brushy veldts, but also frequents farms, villages and even cities. Red-Headed Finches breed colonially, utilizing abandoned weaver nests, tree cavities, and holes in building walls.

Housing

Red-Headed Finches may be kept in large finch cages or outdoor aviaries. Although they nest in colonies, only a single breeding pair should be kept in a cage. In an aviary or flight cage, multiple pairs may be housed together, but their behavior should be closely monitored for signs of aggression.

In spacious quarters, Red-Headed Finches may be kept with Java Rice Birds, Spice Finches, Button Quails and similar birds. They also get along with Cutthroat Finches, but will interbreed with them and produce fertile hybrids.

Diet

A thick, conical bill allows the Red-Headed Finch to consume a wide range of seeds. Those I’ve cared for did well on finch seed mixes that had been bolstered by a high-grade parakeet diet.

Millet sprays hung from perches will keep both you and your birds occupied and entertained for hours.

Small live insects (mealworms, waxworms, crickets), Egg Food and softbill pellets, while not essential outside of the breeding season, should be provided several times weekly; silkworms and other canned insects should be used to add variety to the diet.

Fresh sprouts, carrot tops, and small amounts of chopped kale, dandelion and other greens will round out the diet.

Increased amounts of protein-based foods and fresh produce are necessary during the breeding season, and for parents with chicks.

Grit and cuttlebone should always be available.

Breeding

In common with some other birds native to harsh habitats, Red-Headed Finches may be stimulated to breed at any time of the year if a nest box is provided. Many owners have found that they are sometimes “too willing” to attempt nesting – starting out when given a box but failing due to age, aggression, poor condition or other factors.

While these prolific birds will utilize nearly any type of box, the natural situation is to weave an elaborate, globular nest with a tunnel-like entrance way. Superior results will be achieved if they are provided with a parakeet or large finch nest box and an ample supply of dry grass and nesting hair.

Both parents incubate the 3-6 eggs for 12-13 days. They are quick to abandon the nest if disturbed, so resist the urge to check on their progress. The chicks fledge on day 21-24, and are usually sexually mature within 6 months. However, breeding should be delayed until they are at least 1 year of age.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Holiday Season Treats and Cautions for Parrot and Finch Owners

findiviglio — Fri, 16 Dec 2011 17:05:43 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Holiday visits and celebrations, pleasurable as they are, can also bring some nasty surprises to both people and pets. A bit of planning now can help make the upcoming season safe and enjoyable for you and your birds.

Stress, Noise and Late Nights

Responsible bird owners know that certain holiday treats and, of course, alcohol, are bad for birds. But many overlook the important role that sleep plays in bird health (please see article below). If you entertain late, or will be out often during the holidays, keep in mind that most birds need 10-12 hours of sleep in a dark, quiet environment. If necessary, move your pet’s cage to an area that is off-limits to guests, and shut the room lights via a timer if the rest of your house will be lit after the usual “lights-out” time. Maintaining a stable day/night cycle is good for your birds mental and physical health.

Holiday parties can mean a house stocked with loud, tipsy guests, excited children and unfamiliar dogs. Each of these “creatures” (especially, those influenced by alcohol!) may take liberties with your pets that they otherwise would not. If it will be difficult for you to monitor all that is going on, consider keeping your birds in a locked room while parties are in progress (or “raging”, as the case may be!).

I’ve worked with parrots that thrived in hectic surroundings, such as busy nature centers and classrooms, but these individuals were exceptions. In general, parrots regard strangers and unusual events as threats. It’s important to remember that, however tame they may be, parrots are not domesticated animals, and remain governed by instincts and behaviors that have evolved over many millions of years.

Canaries, Finches and other Birds

All birds are highly aware of their environments, even though most do not show this as obviously as do parrots. Wild finches, canaries, doves and softbills are on the menus of a wide array of predators, and they are, therefore, exceedingly cautious by nature. I’ve even had small birds die “of fright” in my hand…please keep the delicate natures of your smaller birds in mind as the holidays approach.

Un-caged Parrots

Parrots that adjust well to strangers, and which spend time out of their cages, face different risks than do their shyer cousins. Most of these threats are well-known, but they bear repeating. Shiny ornaments, unique foods, ribbons, toys and electric wires may all be dangerous to curious pets.

Also, think carefully before offering your parrot a taste of those special holiday foods that may come your way. Since they may not familiar to you, take time to read the list of ingredients. Some hold unpleasant surprises for birds (and us!), even if they “appear” healthful…there’s a lot more than just “fruit” in the typical holiday fruit cake, for example!

Bird-Friendly Treats

I’m not a complete Scrooge…there are many tasty, nutritious surprises that you can buy or make for your pet birds, and for wild ones that you may feed. Please see the article below for holiday snacks that are quite simple to prepare, and check out our line of treats for pet and wild birds.

Gifts for Bird Owners

Need a gift for the bird owners on your list? From simple “build your own bird toys” to extravagant, mansion-like cages, the options are limitless.

In my opinion, Joseph Forshaw’s classic Parrots of the World makes an unbeatable gift for parrot enthusiasts. Covering the natural history of every parrot species and subspecies, it goes way beyond what can be found in typical pet care books, and is an enjoyable read besides.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Winter Bird Feeding – Rare Bird Update and Some Useful Products

findiviglio — Tue, 13 Dec 2011 15:03:52 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Winter brings with it unique bird-watching opportunities, as cold weather forces otherwise-shy species to visit feeders in search of food. Rare visitors driven south by severe weather and others blown off course during migration also brighten birders’ days. Today I’d like to alert you to several new (and standard) bird feeding products, and highlight some ways to see the unusual avian visitors to your neighborhood.

Birding Surprises

Wherever you are located, winter birding is an exciting prospect. Often, unexpected birds tend to stay put for quite awhile, due to disorientation and the need to remain near a newfound food source. Checking with the many on-line and telephone services (yes, phone-based reports still exist, check here!) is a great way to remain aware of what’s going on nearby; if luck is with you, you can then go out and see the bird that has been reported.

Local birders in and around NYC have already posted sightings of Snowy Owls, Nashville Warblers, Lincoln’s Sparrows and Winter Wrens. In Los Angeles, recent notable visitors include Eurasian Widgeons, Short-Eared Owls and Mountain Bluebirds. Regularly checking the North American Rare Bird Alert or your local Audubon Society chapter will keep you informed about both unusual and regular avian visitors.

Winter Bird and Wildlife Feeders

Winter drives squirrels to even greater food-stealing efforts than usual. The Bird Buffet Squirrel Proof Feeder and similar models will help to thwart them. If squirrels, raccoons, opossums, cats or other animals become a serious problem around your feeders, you may wish to consider a humane live trap (please write in for advice if you are not experienced in animal trapping).

Some folks, myself included, enjoy watching the antics of Red, Gray and Flying Squirrels. The Combo Squirrel Feeder can be set to serve either or both furry and feathered visitors.

Suet Feeders should always be available to provide high protein foods to Nuthatches, Woodpeckers, Creepers and other insect specialists.

Winter Foods

While most any appropriate food will be useful, certain items are especially suitable for harsh weather, when energy needs and other factors influence both people and wildlife.

No Mess Patio Mix contains hulled seeds; ideal for severe weather when it is difficult to clean up around feeders, or anytime you are not physically able to do so (and you’re not paying for shells, only seeds!).

Peanuts, cracked corn and Squirrel Logs are ideal for those who wish to feed squirrels, chipmunks, deer and other mammals. Many birds, including Bobwhite and California Quails and various doves, also relish cracked corn. Peanuts will attract Blue Jays, Monk Parrots and numerous others.

Wild Delight Food Blocks are available in a variety of mixes that are specifically formulated for finches, woodpeckers and general use. Protein and energy-rich Suet Bars and the newer Suet Pellets are important winter standards for woodpeckers, chickadees and many others.

Quails, Doves, Pheasants and other ground-feeding birds are especially at risk following heavy snows. Birdlover’s Quail, Dove and Pigeon Mix spread about on a cleared patch of ground will help them to get by.

Nuthatches, Thrashes, Woodpeckers and many other birds continue to feed upon hibernating insects, and their eggs and pupa, throughout the winter. Freeze-dried mealworms will be greatly appreciated by both insectivorous and omnivorous birds.

Extras and Fun Items

The simple wooden Audubon Bird Call that we currently carry is the exact same model I used over 40 years ago! While I can’t say I ever accurately mimicked any bird, the sounds I created caused just about every species to stop and look around, allowing me a better view without scaring them away. I even used it while working at the Bronx Zoo, in order to attract the attention of meerkats, bald eagles, flying squirrels and all sorts of other creatures…a unique item that should be useful to photographers as well.

A supply of open water is a very important but often over-looked winter necessity. A Birdbath De-Icer will simplify the task of providing water when temperatures drop below freezing.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. Thanks, until next time, Frank Indiviglio.

European Blackbirds as Pets – Captive Care and Natural History

findiviglio — Thu, 08 Dec 2011 17:47:31 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. The USA’s native birds are protected by law, and may only be kept in captivity by licensed rehabilitators (European Starlings, may be kept in some states, please see article linked below). However, folks who wish to keep “wild” birds do have another options. Several European species may be legally kept as pets, provided they have been captive-bred. One of my favorites is the beautiful European Blackbird, Turdus merula.

Natural History

With his jet black plumage and bright yellow bill and eye-ring, the male European Blackbird is quite striking. Females, clad in dark brown, have their own subdued beauty. White-splotched individuals appear regularly (please see photo), and albinos have been selectively bred in captivity.

The European Blackbird’s huge range extends from the UK east and southeast to northern Iran and China. Several subspecies have been described, and introduced populations are established in Australia and New Zealand.

Originally birds of open woodlands and overgrown fields, theses hardy generalists have adapted to life among people, and frequent farms, suburban gardens and large cities.

European Blackbirds as Pets

Although declining in some parts of England, the European Blackbird is generally common, and in the springtime fledglings are often picked up by well-meaning individuals and raised as pets. They usually prove to be quite responsive to people, and this remains the main way in which Blackbirds find their way into captivity.

However, European Blackbirds are also being captive-bred, and they are sometimes available in the USA through breeders and importers specializing in exotic softbills. Hand-raised youngsters make interesting pets, and parent-raised birds usually tame down readily.

Here in the USA, where Crows and European Starlings are common, folks tend to think of black-feathered birds as loud and raucous. However, the European Blackbird is closely related to the Song Thrush, and the male sings in a soft, melodious voice. Their alarm calls, like those of many birds, are loud and hash.

Housing

Active and cold-hearty, European Blackbirds are best kept in large, well-planted aviaries. Life in an outdoor aviary is a great way of keeping these inquisitive birds occupied and interested in their surroundings. Whether hunting or scolding a passing competitor, Blackbirds kept outdoors tend to be more active and vigorous than indoor birds.

A custom-made cage is best for indoor housing, although well-habituated individuals will adjust to large macaw cages. Out-of-cage time in a bird-proofed room should also be provided.

Diet

These attractive songsters are insect specialists, but also take a great deal of fruit at certain times of the year. A highly varied diet, packed with insects and other protein-rich foods, is essential if you want to keep your birds in peak color and condition. I’ve always maintained insect traps, such as the Zoo Med Bug Napper, to help meet the needs of the birds under my care.

Pets fare well on high-quality commercial insectivorous bird food (please write in if you have difficulty in locating this) into which has been mixed Softbill Select, Myna Pellets, hard-boiled egg and some cooked ground beef.

European Blackbirds relish grasshoppers, katydids, earthworms, crickets, spiders, sow bugs, beetles, termites, moths, mealworms, waxworms, maggots, silkworms – almost any invertebrate, in other words! Please see these articles on Collecting Feeder Insects to learn more about increasing dietary variety.

Canned snails, grasshoppers and silkworms, marketed for use with captive reptiles, are a convenient means of increasing the nutritional content of Blackbird diets.

Fresh fruit, including figs, apples, plums, grapes, pears, berries and seasonally available varieties, should be offered daily; squash, cucumbers, carrots and cooked yams should also be tried. Your bird will likely enjoy prepared fruit/vegetable based “cook-and-serve” foods formulated for large parrots.

Wild European Blackbirds forage by tossing dead leaves aside to reveal hidden insects. Pets never lose their “tossing tendencies”, and can create quite a mess at mealtime.

Breeding

Captive breeding is regular but not common, and is best attempted in an outdoor aviary. Indoors, one should adjust the day/night cycle to match that of their natural range.

A supply of dry grasses and mud is essential for pairs that are preparing to nest. The nest will be constructed by the female, but the male “helps” (enthusiasm in this regard varies…some males seem more of a nuisance than anything else!) to gather materials. A nest box or thick shrub will be used.

The eggs, 3-6 in number, are blue-green and speckled with reddish spots. They are incubated by the female for 13-16 days, and the male helps with feeding once the chicks hatch. The youngsters fledge at 2 weeks of age, but are fed by their parents for an additional 2-3 weeks.

A steady supply of live and canned insects (please see above) is essential if the chicks are to be raised successfully. In fact, their insatiable appetites are likely the main reason for the scarcity of captive-raised Blackbirds. Some estimates place their needs at over 100 insects each, per day; this is in line with what I have read in field research reports on similar species. One can easily see how important Blackbirds and other insect-eaters are to people, but their dietary needs do complicate captive breeding. I’m not aware of any attempts to provide parents with insect substitutes, but this tactic often fails with other highly-insectivorous birds.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,
Frank Indiviglio

That Bird Blog » Bird diet

Breeding and Keeping the Nonpareil Finch or Pin-Tailed Parrot Finch

Description

Range and Habitat

Keeping Nonpareils

Enclosure

Light, Heat and Humidity

Diet

Breeding

Further Reading

Goffin’s Cockatoo Invents and Modifies a Tool – a Parrot “First”

Spontaneous and Unexpected Tool Use

Crows, Herons and other Avian Inventors

Goffin’s Cockatoos in the Wild and Captivity

Further Reading

Keeping the Tawny Frogmouth with Notes on its Natural History

Classification

Captive Care

Close Call with a Cassowary (for me and a frogmouth!)

Natural History

Conservation

Torpor

Further Reading

Pygmy Parrots – Thumb-Sized Lichen-Eaters that move like Woodpeckers

The World’s Smallest Parrots

Singular Feeding Adaptations

Field Observations

Learning More

Further Reading

Green-Cheeked Conures – Captive Care and Natural History

Pet Qualities

Other Considerations

Color Phases

Range and Habitat

Natural History

Further Reading

Meyer’s Lorikeet – Natural History and Captive Care

Description

Range

Habitat

Conservation

Meyer’s Lorikeets in Captivity

Diet

Further Reading

The Natural History and Captive Care of the Red-Headed Finch or Paradise Sparrow

Description

Natural History

Housing

Diet

Breeding

Further Reading

Holiday Season Treats and Cautions for Parrot and Finch Owners

Stress, Noise and Late Nights

Canaries, Finches and other Birds

Un-caged Parrots

Bird-Friendly Treats

Gifts for Bird Owners

Further Reading

Winter Bird Feeding – Rare Bird Update and Some Useful Products

Birding Surprises

Winter Bird and Wildlife Feeders

Winter Foods

Extras and Fun Items

Further Reading

European Blackbirds as Pets – Captive Care and Natural History

Natural History

European Blackbirds as Pets

Housing

Diet

Breeding

Further Reading