That Bird Blog » Bird diet

The Natural History and Captive Care of the Red-Headed Finch or Paradise Sparrow

findiviglio — Wed, 18 Jan 2012 16:59:03 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. The Red-Headed Finch (Amadina erythrocephala) somewhat resembles its more familiar cousin, the Cutthroat Finch, but is a bit larger and, in my opinion, even more striking in appearance. It is also a more reliable breeder than the Cutthroat and, if properly cared for, may live for over a decade. Many keepers report that their Red-Headed Finches mimic sounds, and the songs of other birds, quite well.

Description

In place of the Cutthroat Finch’s attractive splash of color (please see photo), the male has a bright red or crimson head, and his breast is beautifully marked with black-rimmed white spots. Females lack the red head and are more somberly-colored in general.

The alternate common name, Paradise Sparrow, is apt – in part due to the brilliant plumage but also because this 5 ¼ inch-long bird is stoutly built, and puts one more in mind of a sparrow than a typical finch.

Natural History

The Red-Headed Finch inhabits southern Africa, where it ranges from Angola through Zimbabwe to South Africa.

It is a bird of open thorn-scrub habitats and brushy veldts, but also frequents farms, villages and even cities. Red-Headed Finches breed colonially, utilizing abandoned weaver nests, tree cavities, and holes in building walls.

Housing

Red-Headed Finches may be kept in large finch cages or outdoor aviaries. Although they nest in colonies, only a single breeding pair should be kept in a cage. In an aviary or flight cage, multiple pairs may be housed together, but their behavior should be closely monitored for signs of aggression.

In spacious quarters, Red-Headed Finches may be kept with Java Rice Birds, Spice Finches, Button Quails and similar birds. They also get along with Cutthroat Finches, but will interbreed with them and produce fertile hybrids.

Diet

A thick, conical bill allows the Red-Headed Finch to consume a wide range of seeds. Those I’ve cared for did well on finch seed mixes that had been bolstered by a high-grade parakeet diet.

Millet sprays hung from perches will keep both you and your birds occupied and entertained for hours.

Small live insects (mealworms, waxworms, crickets), Egg Food and softbill pellets, while not essential outside of the breeding season, should be provided several times weekly; silkworms and other canned insects should be used to add variety to the diet.

Fresh sprouts, carrot tops, and small amounts of chopped kale, dandelion and other greens will round out the diet.

Increased amounts of protein-based foods and fresh produce are necessary during the breeding season, and for parents with chicks.

Grit and cuttlebone should always be available.

Breeding

In common with some other birds native to harsh habitats, Red-Headed Finches may be stimulated to breed at any time of the year if a nest box is provided. Many owners have found that they are sometimes “too willing” to attempt nesting – starting out when given a box but failing due to age, aggression, poor condition or other factors.

While these prolific birds will utilize nearly any type of box, the natural situation is to weave an elaborate, globular nest with a tunnel-like entrance way. Superior results will be achieved if they are provided with a parakeet or large finch nest box and an ample supply of dry grass and nesting hair.

Both parents incubate the 3-6 eggs for 12-13 days. They are quick to abandon the nest if disturbed, so resist the urge to check on their progress. The chicks fledge on day 21-24, and are usually sexually mature within 6 months. However, breeding should be delayed until they are at least 1 year of age.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Holiday Season Treats and Cautions for Parrot and Finch Owners

findiviglio — Fri, 16 Dec 2011 17:05:43 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Holiday visits and celebrations, pleasurable as they are, can also bring some nasty surprises to both people and pets. A bit of planning now can help make the upcoming season safe and enjoyable for you and your birds.

Stress, Noise and Late Nights

Responsible bird owners know that certain holiday treats and, of course, alcohol, are bad for birds. But many overlook the important role that sleep plays in bird health (please see article below). If you entertain late, or will be out often during the holidays, keep in mind that most birds need 10-12 hours of sleep in a dark, quiet environment. If necessary, move your pet’s cage to an area that is off-limits to guests, and shut the room lights via a timer if the rest of your house will be lit after the usual “lights-out” time. Maintaining a stable day/night cycle is good for your birds mental and physical health.

Holiday parties can mean a house stocked with loud, tipsy guests, excited children and unfamiliar dogs. Each of these “creatures” (especially, those influenced by alcohol!) may take liberties with your pets that they otherwise would not. If it will be difficult for you to monitor all that is going on, consider keeping your birds in a locked room while parties are in progress (or “raging”, as the case may be!).

I’ve worked with parrots that thrived in hectic surroundings, such as busy nature centers and classrooms, but these individuals were exceptions. In general, parrots regard strangers and unusual events as threats. It’s important to remember that, however tame they may be, parrots are not domesticated animals, and remain governed by instincts and behaviors that have evolved over many millions of years.

Canaries, Finches and other Birds

All birds are highly aware of their environments, even though most do not show this as obviously as do parrots. Wild finches, canaries, doves and softbills are on the menus of a wide array of predators, and they are, therefore, exceedingly cautious by nature. I’ve even had small birds die “of fright” in my hand…please keep the delicate natures of your smaller birds in mind as the holidays approach.

Un-caged Parrots

Parrots that adjust well to strangers, and which spend time out of their cages, face different risks than do their shyer cousins. Most of these threats are well-known, but they bear repeating. Shiny ornaments, unique foods, ribbons, toys and electric wires may all be dangerous to curious pets.

Also, think carefully before offering your parrot a taste of those special holiday foods that may come your way. Since they may not familiar to you, take time to read the list of ingredients. Some hold unpleasant surprises for birds (and us!), even if they “appear” healthful…there’s a lot more than just “fruit” in the typical holiday fruit cake, for example!

Bird-Friendly Treats

I’m not a complete Scrooge…there are many tasty, nutritious surprises that you can buy or make for your pet birds, and for wild ones that you may feed. Please see the article below for holiday snacks that are quite simple to prepare, and check out our line of treats for pet and wild birds.

Gifts for Bird Owners

Need a gift for the bird owners on your list? From simple “build your own bird toys” to extravagant, mansion-like cages, the options are limitless.

In my opinion, Joseph Forshaw’s classic Parrots of the World makes an unbeatable gift for parrot enthusiasts. Covering the natural history of every parrot species and subspecies, it goes way beyond what can be found in typical pet care books, and is an enjoyable read besides.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Winter Bird Feeding – Rare Bird Update and Some Useful Products

findiviglio — Tue, 13 Dec 2011 15:03:52 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Winter brings with it unique bird-watching opportunities, as cold weather forces otherwise-shy species to visit feeders in search of food. Rare visitors driven south by severe weather and others blown off course during migration also brighten birders’ days. Today I’d like to alert you to several new (and standard) bird feeding products, and highlight some ways to see the unusual avian visitors to your neighborhood.

Birding Surprises

Wherever you are located, winter birding is an exciting prospect. Often, unexpected birds tend to stay put for quite awhile, due to disorientation and the need to remain near a newfound food source. Checking with the many on-line and telephone services (yes, phone-based reports still exist, check here!) is a great way to remain aware of what’s going on nearby; if luck is with you, you can then go out and see the bird that has been reported.

Local birders in and around NYC have already posted sightings of Snowy Owls, Nashville Warblers, Lincoln’s Sparrows and Winter Wrens. In Los Angeles, recent notable visitors include Eurasian Widgeons, Short-Eared Owls and Mountain Bluebirds. Regularly checking the North American Rare Bird Alert or your local Audubon Society chapter will keep you informed about both unusual and regular avian visitors.

Winter Bird and Wildlife Feeders

Winter drives squirrels to even greater food-stealing efforts than usual. The Bird Buffet Squirrel Proof Feeder and similar models will help to thwart them. If squirrels, raccoons, opossums, cats or other animals become a serious problem around your feeders, you may wish to consider a humane live trap (please write in for advice if you are not experienced in animal trapping).

Some folks, myself included, enjoy watching the antics of Red, Gray and Flying Squirrels. The Combo Squirrel Feeder can be set to serve either or both furry and feathered visitors.

Suet Feeders should always be available to provide high protein foods to Nuthatches, Woodpeckers, Creepers and other insect specialists.

Winter Foods

While most any appropriate food will be useful, certain items are especially suitable for harsh weather, when energy needs and other factors influence both people and wildlife.

No Mess Patio Mix contains hulled seeds; ideal for severe weather when it is difficult to clean up around feeders, or anytime you are not physically able to do so (and you’re not paying for shells, only seeds!).

Peanuts, cracked corn and Squirrel Logs are ideal for those who wish to feed squirrels, chipmunks, deer and other mammals. Many birds, including Bobwhite and California Quails and various doves, also relish cracked corn. Peanuts will attract Blue Jays, Monk Parrots and numerous others.

Wild Delight Food Blocks are available in a variety of mixes that are specifically formulated for finches, woodpeckers and general use. Protein and energy-rich Suet Bars and the newer Suet Pellets are important winter standards for woodpeckers, chickadees and many others.

Quails, Doves, Pheasants and other ground-feeding birds are especially at risk following heavy snows. Birdlover’s Quail, Dove and Pigeon Mix spread about on a cleared patch of ground will help them to get by.

Nuthatches, Thrashes, Woodpeckers and many other birds continue to feed upon hibernating insects, and their eggs and pupa, throughout the winter. Freeze-dried mealworms will be greatly appreciated by both insectivorous and omnivorous birds.

Extras and Fun Items

The simple wooden Audubon Bird Call that we currently carry is the exact same model I used over 40 years ago! While I can’t say I ever accurately mimicked any bird, the sounds I created caused just about every species to stop and look around, allowing me a better view without scaring them away. I even used it while working at the Bronx Zoo, in order to attract the attention of meerkats, bald eagles, flying squirrels and all sorts of other creatures…a unique item that should be useful to photographers as well.

A supply of open water is a very important but often over-looked winter necessity. A Birdbath De-Icer will simplify the task of providing water when temperatures drop below freezing.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. Thanks, until next time, Frank Indiviglio.

European Blackbirds as Pets – Captive Care and Natural History

findiviglio — Thu, 08 Dec 2011 17:47:31 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. The USA’s native birds are protected by law, and may only be kept in captivity by licensed rehabilitators (European Starlings, may be kept in some states, please see article linked below). However, folks who wish to keep “wild” birds do have another options. Several European species may be legally kept as pets, provided they have been captive-bred. One of my favorites is the beautiful European Blackbird, Turdus merula.

Natural History

With his jet black plumage and bright yellow bill and eye-ring, the male European Blackbird is quite striking. Females, clad in dark brown, have their own subdued beauty. White-splotched individuals appear regularly (please see photo), and albinos have been selectively bred in captivity.

The European Blackbird’s huge range extends from the UK east and southeast to northern Iran and China. Several subspecies have been described, and introduced populations are established in Australia and New Zealand.

Originally birds of open woodlands and overgrown fields, theses hardy generalists have adapted to life among people, and frequent farms, suburban gardens and large cities.

European Blackbirds as Pets

Although declining in some parts of England, the European Blackbird is generally common, and in the springtime fledglings are often picked up by well-meaning individuals and raised as pets. They usually prove to be quite responsive to people, and this remains the main way in which Blackbirds find their way into captivity.

However, European Blackbirds are also being captive-bred, and they are sometimes available in the USA through breeders and importers specializing in exotic softbills. Hand-raised youngsters make interesting pets, and parent-raised birds usually tame down readily.

Here in the USA, where Crows and European Starlings are common, folks tend to think of black-feathered birds as loud and raucous. However, the European Blackbird is closely related to the Song Thrush, and the male sings in a soft, melodious voice. Their alarm calls, like those of many birds, are loud and hash.

Housing

Active and cold-hearty, European Blackbirds are best kept in large, well-planted aviaries. Life in an outdoor aviary is a great way of keeping these inquisitive birds occupied and interested in their surroundings. Whether hunting or scolding a passing competitor, Blackbirds kept outdoors tend to be more active and vigorous than indoor birds.

A custom-made cage is best for indoor housing, although well-habituated individuals will adjust to large macaw cages. Out-of-cage time in a bird-proofed room should also be provided.

Diet

These attractive songsters are insect specialists, but also take a great deal of fruit at certain times of the year. A highly varied diet, packed with insects and other protein-rich foods, is essential if you want to keep your birds in peak color and condition. I’ve always maintained insect traps, such as the Zoo Med Bug Napper, to help meet the needs of the birds under my care.

Pets fare well on high-quality commercial insectivorous bird food (please write in if you have difficulty in locating this) into which has been mixed Softbill Select, Myna Pellets, hard-boiled egg and some cooked ground beef.

European Blackbirds relish grasshoppers, katydids, earthworms, crickets, spiders, sow bugs, beetles, termites, moths, mealworms, waxworms, maggots, silkworms – almost any invertebrate, in other words! Please see these articles on Collecting Feeder Insects to learn more about increasing dietary variety.

Canned snails, grasshoppers and silkworms, marketed for use with captive reptiles, are a convenient means of increasing the nutritional content of Blackbird diets.

Fresh fruit, including figs, apples, plums, grapes, pears, berries and seasonally available varieties, should be offered daily; squash, cucumbers, carrots and cooked yams should also be tried. Your bird will likely enjoy prepared fruit/vegetable based “cook-and-serve” foods formulated for large parrots.

Wild European Blackbirds forage by tossing dead leaves aside to reveal hidden insects. Pets never lose their “tossing tendencies”, and can create quite a mess at mealtime.

Breeding

Captive breeding is regular but not common, and is best attempted in an outdoor aviary. Indoors, one should adjust the day/night cycle to match that of their natural range.

A supply of dry grasses and mud is essential for pairs that are preparing to nest. The nest will be constructed by the female, but the male “helps” (enthusiasm in this regard varies…some males seem more of a nuisance than anything else!) to gather materials. A nest box or thick shrub will be used.

The eggs, 3-6 in number, are blue-green and speckled with reddish spots. They are incubated by the female for 13-16 days, and the male helps with feeding once the chicks hatch. The youngsters fledge at 2 weeks of age, but are fed by their parents for an additional 2-3 weeks.

A steady supply of live and canned insects (please see above) is essential if the chicks are to be raised successfully. In fact, their insatiable appetites are likely the main reason for the scarcity of captive-raised Blackbirds. Some estimates place their needs at over 100 insects each, per day; this is in line with what I have read in field research reports on similar species. One can easily see how important Blackbirds and other insect-eaters are to people, but their dietary needs do complicate captive breeding. I’m not aware of any attempts to provide parents with insect substitutes, but this tactic often fails with other highly-insectivorous birds.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,
Frank Indiviglio

Illegal Drug Pushes India’s Vultures to the Brink of Extinction

findiviglio — Tue, 22 Nov 2011 17:07:07 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Vulture welfare tends not to arouse much concern, even from bird enthusiasts. However, several species are now at the center of a growing extinction crisis in south Asia. The story illustrates just how complicated things can become when the needs of livestock, people and wildlife collide, and why we must look below the surface when we consider the conservation of any bird or other animal.

A Double-Edged Sword

Diclofenac, a drug used to treat both people and livestock, is at the heart of the troubles afflicting India’s vultures. Dead cattle and water buffalos, many of which have been medicated with Diclofenac, are a major source of food for at least 3 species of Indian vultures.

Diclofenac is fatal to vultures when consumed, and has been identified as the major reason behind the steep decline in their numbers in India. In the 1980’s, the White Rumped Vulture was considered to be the world’s most abundant large bird of prey. It has now declined by a staggering 99.9%! Populations of Indian and Slender-Billed Vultures are now at 3% of their 1990 levels.

Pharmacies Flout the Law

In 2006, India banned the use of Diclofenac as a livestock medication; it remains legal to prescribe to people (it is also regulated in Pakistan and Nepal). Farmers and ranchers are encouraged to rely upon Meloxican, which is harmless to vultures.

However, a recent survey of 250 pharmacies in 11 Indian states revealed that over 1/3 were still dispensing Diclofenac to cattle ranchers. In many cases, the drug was labeled as a human medicine, but the quantities dispensed, and their destination, left no doubt as to its intended use. Ketoprofen, also deadly to vultures, may still be legally purchased as a livestock medication. Several other products that are believed to cause vulture fatalities have not been fully investigated and remain on the market.

Vultures Also Benefit Human Health

Human health considerations complicate vulture conservation in India. Obviously, an outright ban on suspect medications would not be reasonable if alternatives did not exist, or if people could not afford the replacements. On the other hand, in many Indian cities and rural areas, vultures directly assist human health by consuming carcasses and other refuse.

The importance of scavengers (and decomposers) cannot be over-estimated. While their role is more noticeable in rural and ranching areas, they are at work everywhere. Consider how many birds, mice, insects and other creatures die each day in your own city or town…how many do you see? I’ve observed vultures at work on cattle ranches in South America, and have looked into what happens to the millions of house mice that die each month at the Bronx Zoo, and can assure you that the world would be a very different – and unhealthier – place without our scavenging allies.

Captive Breeding Efforts

On a brighter note, 3 vulture breeding centers in India have had a banner chick production year. Managed by Birdlife International, the Bombay Natural History Society and other groups, the “Save Asia’s Vultures from Extinction Initiative” also operates facilities in Nepal and Pakistan, and hopes to reintroduce birds back to the wild when the threats posed by livestock drugs have been resolved.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

The Natural History and Captive Care of the Bronze-Winged Parrot

findiviglio — Tue, 15 Nov 2011 17:41:13 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Also known as the Bronze-Winged Pionus, Pionus chalcopterus, this delightful little bird has been somewhat ignored by US parrot keepers until recently. However, it has many fine pet qualities and boasts a beautiful “color scheme” that is not common among its relatives.

Description

The 11-inch-long Bronze-Wing’s beauty lies not in bright, “screaming” plumage but rather in a subtle blend of colors. It may at first appear somewhat dull, but closer inspection will reveal that the body plumage is dark purple to navy blue, and overlain with a bronze tint…quite attractive and ever-changing with light levels. The pink eye ring and pink-edged head feathers add to its unique appearance, and red coverlets decorate the tail.

Natural History

The Bronze-Winged Parrot’s range lies in a narrow band that extends from northwestern Venezuela (where I once unsuccessfully searched for it) through Columbia and Ecuador to northwestern Peru. It is mainly found in wet, mountainous forests, and has been observed at over 9,000 feet above sea level (please see photo). Lowland forests and cleared areas are sometimes utilized as well.

Not much is known about the Bronze-Wing’s life in the wild, as it usually forages high in the forest canopy and is therefore difficult to study. Fruit, especially various figs, is believed to comprise the bulk of the diet. Outside of the breeding season, it forms small groups and large flocks.

Bronze-Winged Parrots as Pets

Bronze-Wings are usually described as “gentle but easily excited”. My own experience is in line with this, and I recommend them for owners with a gentle touch and calm household.

Despite their reputation as “sensitive” parrots, Bronze-Wings have great pet potential, and may reach age 30-40. In the right situation, they remain quite calm and are easily tamed. Once accustomed to their owners, Bronze-Wings enjoy close contact and many become quite playful. Some owners report that males have a tendency to bond closely with one person, and to be aggressive to others.

They are rather quiet as parrots go, although their high-pitched voices are sometimes hard to take. Although not known for extensive vocabularies, many will learn a few words. Like other Pionus parrots, Bronze-Wings will wheeze when stressed, often leading owners to suspect a respiratory infection.

Housing

Although not very large, Bronze-Winged Parrots are quite active and seem especially prone to stress-related disorders when kept in small enclosures. Large cages or aviaries are ideal, and daily out-of-the cage time is essential. Pairs that are closely confined may over-preen one another to the point of severe feather loss.

Some owners report that Bronze-Wings chew and bathe more than most parrots; I have not noticed a significant difference between them and other Pionus parrots in these regards.

Diet

Fruit and greens figure highly in the natural diet of Bronze-Winged Parrots. Perhaps because they are often fed an over-abundance of seeds and nuts, pets have a tendency to become obese.

Provide your Bronze-Wings with a wide variety of fruits and vegetables on a daily basis, and be sure to search out “exotic” varieties if these are not available from your usual store. Pomegranate, prickly pear fruit, apples, kiwi, carrots, peas, corn, dandelion, kale and many other types of produce will be readily accepted (introduce new foods slowly to avoid digestive upset).

The balance of the diet should be comprised of a good small parrot seed mix. Avoid diets formulated for larger species, and be sure to sprout a variety of seeds for them as well (please see article below).

Breeding

Breeding is best attempted in large aviaries. Bronze-Wing clutches average 2-4 eggs, which are incubated for 24-27 days. Only the female incubates, but the male often sits beside her in the nest hollow – the mothers among my readers must, I’m sure, wonder just how “useful” this is!

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Weaning Canaries – Encouraging Fledglings to Accept the Adult Diet

findiviglio — Tue, 08 Nov 2011 16:07:01 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Whether they are hand or parent-reared, young Canaries usually need some encouragement to switch from the nestling to adult diet. This change-over period can be quite stressful, but there are a number of steps you can take to ease the transition.

The Transition Period

Pet Canaries feed their chicks largely upon sprouts, soaked seeds and Egg Food or hard boiled eggs. Once the young fledge, which usually occurs at age 16-20 days, they will be fed by their parents for an additional 2 -3 weeks. During this time, they will also begin to pick at food and eventually learn to eat on their own. Fledglings benefit from watching their parents and siblings…chicks that are hand-reared are at a disadvantage in this respect, but will also respond to the ideas and foods mentioned below.

Hard seeds are a novel food for young Canaries, and acquiring the skill needed to open them takes practice. A high protein diet remains important right through the first molt (which usually begins within 2 months of fledging), but eventually seeds should replace egg-based foods as their staple.

Caution: Stress and Weight Loss

While it is important to encourage youngsters to accept hard seeds, bear in mind that dietary switches, and the loss of parental care, are very stressful events. Stress can depress the immune system…if the birds are also losing weight, serious health problems can quickly take hold. So it’s important to keep them feeding, even if this means that the transition to adult foods will be slow. Continue to supply young birds with their favorites, such as egg food and sprouts, especially if they appear to be losing weight and slowing down. Canaries have little in the way of food reserves, so be sure to seek veterinary advice quickly if your birds decline in condition.

Make all introductions gradually…even healthy foods may cause digestive upset if suddenly taken in large quantities. And, as most parents will tell you, mixing with favorite foods, and other trickery, is critical if any young “creature” is to accept a new diet!

Useful Weaning Foods and Techniques

Couscous soaked in hot water is used by many breeders as a transition food. I use soaked, crushed seeds in place of couscous, but several of my former coworkers at the Bronx Zoo report that Canaries eat it readily, and remain in good weight while adjusting to a seed-based diet. If you opt for couscous, I suggest that you offer soaked, ground seeds as well.

Crushed softbill pellets (i.e. Softbill Select) can be mixed into the foods that the youngsters are accustomed to (typically Egg Food or a similar product). This will provide additional nutrients and introduce new tastes.

Seeds that are just beginning to sprout (please see photo, and article below for sprouting info) are one of the best foods to introduce. Most young Canaries relish sprouts; while pecking at the sprout the birds invariably hit the seed itself, and in time will begin to consume it as well.

Mix some soaked seeds from your adult canary diet in among the sprouts to encourage further experimentation. Once your birds are eating softened seeds, add crushed or ground hard seeds. Coffee grinders or pestles can be used to break up seeds and render them easier to consume.

Please check out my posts on Twitter http://twitter.com/#!/findiviglio and Facebook http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100000972624553. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Natural History and Captive Care of Tri-Colored and Black-Headed Munias

findiviglio — Wed, 26 Oct 2011 18:14:43 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Also known as Tri-Colored and Black-Headed Nuns or Mannikins (Lonchura Malacca and L. atricapilla), these pert little birds make excellent pets for both beginning and advanced finch keepers. While neither sports the flashy colors of certain related species, contrasting black, chestnut and white plumage renders them quite striking.

Natural History

The 5-inch-long Tri-Colored Munia is found in southern India and Sri Lanka. It is most common in and near swamps, flooded meadows, riversides, rice fields and other moist, open habitats.

The Black-Headed Munia was long considered to be a subspecies of the Tri-Colored, but has now been designated as a distinct species. However, captives interbreed readily, and will also pair up with related finches. Its natural range, which lies north and east-southeast of the Tri-Color’s, extends from northern India through southern China, Thailand and Vietnam. It tops out at 4.5 inches in length.

Both species rely upon grass seeds as their primary food, and may form large flocks outside of the breeding season.

Captive Care: Housing

Due to their diminutive size, Munias are usually kept in quite small cages. While most will adjust to such accommodations, they will be much more content and active (and more interesting to observe!) if provided with a large flight cage.

Outdoor aviaries are ideal for small groups. If not crowded, they will get along well with other similarly-sized finches, but aggression can occur during the breeding season.

Diet

A high quality finch seed mix containing dehydrated fruit and vegetables (they do not take much fresh fruit, but seem to benefit from dried bits included in commercial diets) should form the basis of the diet.

Small amounts of chopped kale, romaine and other greens, as well as fresh sprouts, should be offered several times weekly. Soaked seed are beneficial to pairs rearing chicks.

Although most accounts claim that Tri-Colored and Black-Headed Munias will not eat insects, those under my care have taken waxworms, mealworms, wingless houseflies and small crickets. Perhaps food preferences vary among different populations, and this is reflected by captive bred descendants. In any case, I suggest offering insects, especially during the breeding season.

grit and cuttlebone should always be available.

Breeding

Breeding is most likely to occur when a pair has plenty of room.

In the wild, both species construct a covered, oval nest of dried grasses and moss, usually located 6-8 feet above-ground. Nesting baskets may be accepted by captives.

Both parents incubate their 4-5 eggs for 12-14 days. The young fledge when they are approximately 3-4 weeks old.

Special Considerations

In common with other savanna-adapted finches, Black-Headed and Tri-Colored Munias have very long, curved nails that assist them in clinging to swaying grass stems while feeding. Their nails grow quickly and may become entangled in cage mesh or wire if not trimmed regularly. Be sure to seek assistance from an experienced bird keeper or veterinarian if you are not familiar with nail-clipping.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,
Frank Indiviglio

The Natural History and Captive Care of the Superb Fruit Dove

findiviglio — Tue, 18 Oct 2011 18:38:28 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. “Superb” indeed! I was captivated by fruit doves early in my career. The Bronx Zoo’s director at the time was a confirmed “bird man”, and consequently I was surrounded by an amazing collection. But even among a dozen brilliantly-colored relatives, the Superb Fruit Dove, Ptilinopus supurbus, stood out. Its intensely green, orange and purple plumage rivals that of any parrot…and while no dove will talk to you, neither will their quiet, pleasant calls jangle your nerves!

Natural History

Over 100 species of fruit doves and pigeons have been described, approximately 60 of which are classified within the Superb Fruit Dove’s genus.

Superb Fruit Doves are found from the Philippines south through Sulawesi and the Celebes to New Guinea and the eastern coast of Australia. Their preferred habitats include rainforest edges and clearings, mangrove swamps and wooded riversides.

Superb Fruit Doves are birds of the treetops, feeding there and descending to the ground only to drink. Surprisingly, their flamboyant colors provide excellent camouflage against the canopy’s shadows and sun-streaked leaves. Seeds that are consumed along with fruit pass through the digestive system intact, rendering them as important seed-dispersers for a wide variety of trees.

Populations appear stable over-all, but, being birds of heavily-forested habitats, they and related species are threatened by logging and agricultural expansion. Several Australian populations are in decline.

Captive Care

Despite their gorgeous plumage and relative hardiness, only 20-25 fruit dove species are regularly kept in private collections. Many breed readily, but they are not suited for cage life and are best kept in aviaries or bird rooms.

If you are interested in keeping doves but lack the space for an aviary, please see these articles on Diamond Doves and Zebra Doves, both of which adapt well to large cages.

Housing

A pair of Superb Fruit Doves will require an aviary measuring at least 6 x 4 x 6 feet, but double that is preferable; despite being a mere 9 inches long, they do not take well to crowding. Flight space and plenty of above-ground perches and shelves are essential. Having evolved in forested habitats, Superb Fruit Doves will be stressed in open enclosures…abundant live plants and at least one solid (non-screened) side to the aviary will help them to settle in.

Indoor housing is required during autumn and winter in temperate climates, as these tropical birds cannot tolerate cold weather.

Superb Fruit Doves get along well with smaller seed-eating doves, finches, Painted Quails and non-aggressive softbills.

Diet

Those experienced with Ring-Necked Doves and similar species may be surprised at the Superb Fruit Dove’s dietary needs…i.e. the fact that seed can be dispensed with. An extremely varied diet is essential to their good health…trying to maintain any fruit dove on a diet limited to 4-5 items is a recipe for disaster.

The majority of the diet should consist (as you might guess!) of fruit. Apples, peaches, pears, melons, berries of all kinds, papaya, mango, kiwi, currants, figs, dates and others, along with small amounts of cooked yams and carrots, should be provided daily. Softbill pellets and a bit of soaked dog kibble will round-out the salad.

To assure that a balanced diet is consumed, food must be cut to perfect “swallowing size”…fruit doves cannot break food into manageable bits, and will discard pieces that are too large.

Breeding

Superb Fruit Doves breed surprisingly well, with the main problem being egg rolling from the flimsy stick nests they construct. Baskets should be hung about the upper reaches of the aviary for a breeding pair; if accepted as nest sites, egg incubation will be much more successful.

Both parents incubate the single egg for 14-16 days. The chick fledges quickly – usually by day 7 – at which point it may be quite vulnerable to falls, inclement weather and other threats. However, the parents, if undisturbed, will stay close by and continue to feed it, so avoid intervening.

Uncommon but Worthwhile Relatives

Other truly gorgeous pigeons and doves are also being bred by private aviculturists…please see this article for notes on Bleeding Heart, Nicobar and Victoria Crowned Pigeons.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

The Natural History and Captive Care of the Plum-Headed Parakeet

findiviglio — Tue, 11 Oct 2011 19:30:14 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. The gorgeous Plum-Headed Parakeet, Psittacula cyanocephala, combines “exotic” beauty with extreme hardiness. Active and inquisitive, yet possessed of a calm disposition, this South Asian native makes a wonderful pet or aviary addition.

Description

A slender tail comprises over two-thirds of the Plum-Headed Parakeet’s 14 inch length. The male’s colorful head, which is clad in mixed shades of red, purple, maroon, violet, rose and/or pink, lends the species its common name. Females lack the black neck ring and have an attractive bluish-gray head. The body plumage of both sexes is a beautiful blend of lime and other shades of green.

Albino, green, blue and lutino mutations have been produced by hobbyists.

Range

The Plum-Headed Parakeet ranges from western Pakistan through most of India to Sri Lankain the south and Nepal and Bhutan in the north.

Habitat

Plum-Headed Parakeets favor forest edges, wooded plains and other semi-open habitats. Often common in woodlots near farms, they are considered agricultural pests in some regions.

Plum-Headed Parakeets as Pets

Most owners describe their Plum-Headed Parakeets as “moderately quiet”, but individual birds vary a great deal in this regard. They may learn a few words, but are known more for whistling than for their speaking abilities.

Plum-Headed Parakeets tend to be shy, but in time can become very trusting of their owners. However, most do not enjoy handling and rough-housing as might, for example, a tame cockatoo.

Housing

These birds love to climb and are very skilled, graceful fliers (wild flocks are described as shooting though heavy cover without ruffling a leaf). They are therefore best housed in outdoor or indoor aviaries, where they will remain active and interested in their environment. While Plum- Headed Parakeets will adjust to life in a large cage, they tend to become lethargic if not provided with daily out-of-cage exercise time.

Despite their “tropical colors”, Plum-Headed Parakeets often inhabit high altitude environments and are well adapted to cool temperatures. Year-round outdoor housing is often possible if a heated shelter is provided. The closely-related Indian Ring-Necked Parakeet has even established a small breeding population in NYC…during my years at the Bronx Zoo I kept tabs on a small flock, and was amazed to see how well they weathered the frigid winters (please see article below).

Generally mild-mannered, they get along well in groups and with Java Rice Birds, Chinese Quail, larger finches and similar birds. Breeding pairs are best kept alone.

Diet

Wild Plum-Headed Parakeets consume a highly varied diet and captives fare best with the same. A good small parrot blend can comprise the bulk of your pet’s food, but sprouts, chopped fruit, and greens such as kale, dandelion and chicory should also be provided daily.

Branches from budding apple, pear, peach and other fruit trees are especially favored, and will keep parakeets occupied for hours.

Breeding

Plum-Headed Parrots regularly reproduce in captivity, but are not considered “easy breeders”. The best results will be had by housing a pair alone in an outdoor aviary.

A female will typically produce 4-6 eggs which she alone will incubate for 21-24 days. The male feeds her during this time, and he is also largely responsible for feeding the chicks once they fledge (at age 6 weeks). Interestingly, the female may remain in the nest for up to 3 weeks after the chicks have fledged – apparently feeling that “enough is enough”! The male will continue to feed her during this “recuperation period”.

Pairs on the nest rarely develop the aggressive tendencies shown by many other breeding parrots. Rather, Plum-Headed Parakeets often abandon rather than defend their nests if stressed. For that reason, active nests should not be inspected.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

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