Archive for June, 2009
Bird Cage Overview…Time to Give Your Pet More Space? – Part 2
Jun 17th
Please see Part I of this article for general consideration regarding cage size.
Canaries, Finches, Parakeets and other Small Birds
As mentioned in Part I of this article, the exercise needs of smaller birds are often overlooked…many are quite high strung, and need comparatively more space than do large, calm birds.
A&E Aviary Cages and Double Stacked Bird Cages are true mansions for smaller birds, and the absolute best choice for those that require flying room. The provision of flying space is especially important for birds that do not climb about in the manner of parrots, and for those which cannot be given out-of-the-cage exercise time.
The Blue Ribbon Tall Cage is great for parakeets, lovebirds and other climbers. It can be provisioned with vine and rope perches to increase its usable space and create a very unique effect.
A useful new concept – the second floor – is included in the Blue Ribbon Series 1418 Cage.
The additional height is very much appreciated by shyer finches.
Small Parrots
Cockatiels, lovebirds, conures and other small parrots make use of both flying and climbing space…their ultimate housing option is the A&E Flight/Aviary Bird Cage .
Our Victorian Style Cage opens at the top, allowing your pet access to an open-air perch site. You might also wish to check out our cages for medium-sized birds (please see below).
Medium Parrots
African gray parrots, Goffin’s cockatoos, Amazons and similarly-sized birds are often tricky to accommodate – not quite as large as macaws, they are still hefty and active, and are cramped in typical parrot cages. Our wide selection of Victorian, Dometop and Playtop Cages offer a great many options for all of the most commonly-kept parrots.
Large Parrots and Cockatoos
A&E Split Level House Cage, which provides ample height, width and length for even the largest avian pets. It also allows for cage-top play areas, an important consideration for large, intelligent birds.
For something a bit different, consider the A&E Mahogany Cage which is both a fine piece of furniture and a functional, spacious cage.
Shama Thrushes, Pekin Robins, Quail and other Exotics
Cages for less-commonly kept birds must be chosen with careful consideration to the species’ lifestyle- toucans need to hop from branch to branch, white-eyes must have flying room, painted quail require ample floor space – and so on.
Cage size and shape is particularly important for birds which tend to be shy and for those that will not be handled, and thus will spend most of their time confined. Please write in for advice concerning individual species.
Outdoor Aviaries
Our outdoor aviaries are the ultimate in bird homes, allowing your pets the benefits of space, sun and natural light. Ranging from 3.5×4 to 9×5 feet, there is an outdoor aviary for any bird you may keep.
Playpens and Gyms
A larger cage is the most effective means of providing your bird with additional space. You can, however, increase exercise options for tame birds by providing them with one of our unique cage top or free-standing play areas.
Further Reading
Please see my article on Outdoor Aviaries for further information on these ultimate bird environments.
Please write in with your questions and comments. Thanks, until next time, Frank Indiviglio.
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Loading ...Feeding Wild Birds during the Spring and Summer
Jun 15th
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. In contrast to most everyone I know, I enjoy feeding birds as much in the warmer months as in winter. The question, sometimes raised, of the possibility of one “taking them away from their role as insect catchers” is far too complicated to address here but is, I can assure you, not a concern.
Hummingbirds, Supreme Aerialists
Warm weather bird feeding offers us the opportunity to observe at close quarters birds that are, in many regions, absent during the winter. In most parts of the country the magnificent hummingbirds first spring to mind.
These little gems are simply breathtaking…our glass hummingbird feeder can start you on the road to what can easily become a lifelong hobby. The book Attracting and Feeding Hummingbirds provides valuable guidance on hummingbird-friendly gardens, nectar mixes and species identification.
Insects for Summer Visitors and Winter Regulars
Another simple way to attract summer residents is to supply insects. This is most easily accomplished by offering freeze dried Wild Bird Mealworms. Especially if your feeder is located near sheltering trees or bushes, you may be treated to the sight of warblers, orioles, thrushes, catbirds, flickers and other beautiful insectivores gathering food for both themselves and their young.
Chickadees, juncos, sparrows and other seed-eating “winter regulars” raise their young on insects, catching several hundred daily in most cases, and will take advantage of your hospitality as well.
Seedeaters – Generalists and Specialists
Although catching insects for their nestlings and consuming many themselves, many confirmed seedeaters will continue to take seeds, nuts and other such staples year-round. Our line of wild bird foods can provide all you’ll need, including specialty mixes for doves and pigeons (which eat seed all year and feed their young with “pigeon milk” derived from the lining of the crop).
An Interesting Observation
Concerning seed-eaters, this spring I was quite surprised to see a male English sparrow (Passer domesticus) feed cracked corn to its newly-fledged youngster (fledglings are fed by parents for several days after leaving the nest)…I had assumed insects to be the sole food provided by adults.
Next time we’ll take a look at warm weather backyard birding opportunities, feeders for flying and gray squirrels, and bat houses. Until then, please write in with your questions and comments. Thanks, Frank Indiviglio
Further Reading
A very interesting field report documenting the huge of insects captured by robins with chicks in the nest is posted at:
http://elibrary.unm.edu/sora/Wilson/v047n02/p0109-p0111.pdf
Northern Flicker image referenced from Wikipedia commons and originally posted by naturespicsonline.com
(No Ratings Yet) Loading ...Avian Nutritional Considerations: African Gray Parrots and Indian Hill Mynas
Jun 12th
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Although much we know about feeding pet birds applies to a wide range of species, a great deal is specific to certain species, families or other groupings. Often, it is important to think in terms of specific bird – i.e. “Peter’s twinspot” as opposed to “finch” – if we are to provide proper nutrition to our collections.A wide range of species-specific bird diets are now available to assist us in this task. As always, research concerning individual species is vital…please check out our extensive line of bird books for advice.
Today and in future articles I’d like to cover some nutritional concerns that commonly arise among various types of birds.
African Gray Parrot (Psittacus erithacus)
Hypocalcaemia
The ever popular African gray is prone to calcium deficiencies, which most commonly appear at age 2-5. Most birds afflicted with hypocalcaemia metabolize bone calcium in an effort to maintain adequate blood levels of this important mineral. African grays, however, seem unable to do this and instead become racked by seizures (tetany) when calcium is lacking; veterinary intervention is necessary.
Hypovitaminosis A
Vitamin A deficiency is not uncommon in African grays. The excess keratin production that is associated with this condition causes the eyes to dry and the third eyelid (nictitating membrane) to thicken. Birds so afflicted also sneeze, apparently in an effort to clear keratin from the nasal passages.
Sinusitis
Mucus ceases to move normally between the nasal passages, resulting in blockages and breathing difficulties. As described above, this is sometimes related to a Vitamin A deficiency.
The role of Vitamin C in reducing sinusitis symptoms and of zinc in transporting Vitamin A is also being investigated.
Feather Plucking
Like other highly intelligent birds, African grays become bored easily. Feather plucking is often associated with boredom, but there is some evidence that low levels of the amino acid arginine may play a role as well. To rule out a nutritional problem, be sure to provide your parrot with a sound diet and a vitamin/mineral supplement.
Food can also serve as an important factor in reducing boredom…consider different ways of making your bird work for its meals, and offer sticks of tough vegetables that the parrot can manipulate and shred. Our many foraging toys are invaluable in providing stimulating feeding opportunities.
Indian Hill Myna (Gracula religiosa)
Hemochromatosis (Iron Storage Disease)
For some reasons, these wonderfully talented mimics seem especially prone iron build-up in the liver and other organs. Although nutritional links have been identified, there is much we still need to learn. Please see my article Iron Storage Disease and Citrus Fruit for more information.
Although primarily frugivorous, mynas relish animal foods as well. Beef and other meats are often high in iron and best avoided until all the evidence is in. Stay with hard boiled eggs and insects instead…canned invertebrates are a great option.
Cleaning Considerations
Like most fruit-eating birds, mynas have big appetites and process food rapidly….defecation may occur within 20 minutes of eating. This, combined with high activity levels and the production of moist droppings, renders cage sanitation a vital issue. Be sure to clean all cage surfaces daily with a bird-safe sanitizer to prevent the buildup of harmful bacteria.
Further Reading
Please see my articles on the Natural History and Care of Hill Mynas and African Gray Parrots for more information.
On to other birds next time. Please write in with your questions and comments. Thanks, Frank Indiviglio.
Images referenced from Morguefile.
(No Ratings Yet) Loading ...Aviary Birds: the Violet-Backed or Amethyst Starling – Part 2
Jun 10th
Amethyst Starlings in Captivity
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Please see Part I of this article for information about the natural history of the amethyst starling. More popular with European than American aviculturists, amethyst starlings (Cinnyricinlus leucogaster) are none-the-less regularly bred in this country. In my opinion, those looking to expand their collection can ask for no more interesting an avian project than keeping a pair of amethyst starlings. They will require a huge enclosure – one of our larger outdoor aviaries would be ideal – and indoor winter quarters in most of the USA, but are well-worth the effort.
Reproduction and Hand-Rearing
Incubation lasts for approximately 14 days. The chicks fledge at day 18-22, after which they are fed by the parents for an additional 10 days or so. Adult starlings have been seen to cover their eggs with leaves when departing from the nest.
The chicks, being ravenous feeders and taking a wide variety of foods, are not difficult to hand rear. I have hand-raised chicks of the closely related European starling (see photos) for use in educational programs; without fail they became amazingly tame and confiding – curious about everything and a source of great pleasure for thousands of school children.
Diet
The appetite of the amethyst starling, like that of nearly all its relatives, is expansive and easy to satisfy. They feed with gusto, and do best on a varied diet. Diets I use in zoos and at home are based around such foods as myna and softbill pellets, fruit pudding, mixed fruits and vegetables and nearly any live or canned insect available. An occasional dead pink mouse or hard boiled egg will be devoured with very evident pleasure.
Further Reading
You can read about the Jacksonville Zoo’s amethyst starlings at
http://www.jaxzoo.org/things/biofacts/AmethystStarling.asp.
Please write in with your questions and comments. Thanks, until next time, Frank Indiviglio.
Amethyst Starling image referenced from Wikipedia and originally posted by LTShears
(No Ratings Yet) Loading ...Collecting and Using Live and Processed Insects for Finches and other Pet Birds – Part 1
Jun 8th
Insects, earthworms and other invertebrates form a surprisingly large part of the natural diets of many finches, and are essential foods for captive shama thrushes, white eyes and other popular softbills. Even zebra finches and other hardy species that fare well on seed-based diets benefit from insect nutrients. The provision of live insects is often a key factor in bringing birds into breeding condition, and they are indispensible to those with chicks to raise.I have written a number of articles on our Reptile Blog which may be of interest to aviculturists seeking to breed birds or increase dietary variety. I’ll briefly alert you to some of the possibilities here…please see the links below for more details and for information on handling insects and avoiding toxic species.
Light Traps
The Zoo Med Bug Napper, modeled on traps used to collect insects used in research and zoo bird diets, is the most effective insect trap on the market. It is the easiest to use of all the collection methods described below (just plug it in!) and generally provides the highest percentage of usable insect species. This convenient device will yield nightly hauls of live moths, midges, beetles and other nutritious bird favorites.
The type of light utilized in the Bug Napper is particularly attractive to flying insects, but searching around porch and door lights is also a useful insect hunting technique.
Homemade Traps
Termites (please bear with me on this one!), especially when in mating flights, are major protein sources for birds all over the world, and may be key in stimulating breeding activity in some. Worker termites can easily be trapped (please see below), and will not establish colonies in your home should they escape.
Hunting – the fun part!
Try spreading a sheet below a bush and beating the foliage. This entomologist’s technique will supply you with an incredible assortment of katydids, tree crickets, caterpillars and other soft-bodied delicacies. Be sure to use plastic tongs or small net to handle any species which you cannot identify.
Sifting through leaf litter (or driving insects from litter with heat – please see below) is a useful way of collecting secretive invertebrates. Sow bugs, which are actually Crustaceans and thus related to crabs, are particularly important as a natural calcium source. You’ll have plenty to choose from – even excluding earthworms, the weight of the invertebrates in a single acre of New England forest leaf litter can top 3 tons!
Net Sweeps
“Meadow Plankton” is a term given the astonishing array of invertebrates that may be captured by sweeping a long-handled net through tall grass. Ranging in size from tiny aphids to large grasshoppers, there will be something for any bird you might keep.
Look, Learn and Have Fun!
Don’t forget to closely examine the creatures you collect. You’ll not soon be bored…over 2,000 types of insects live right within New York City (I’ve collected most of them!), and it is estimated that 30 million species inhabit the planet. A field guide in the Audubon Society or Peterson series is always useful to have on hand.
Further Reading
Please see the following articles for further details on the collecting techniques described above:
Collecting Live Food: an Entomologist’s Technique
Leaf Litter Invertebrates
Building a Termite Trap
Next time we’ll look at canned and freeze-dried invertebrates, and discuss rearing insects at home. Please write in with your questions and comments. Thanks, Frank Indiviglio.
Grasshopper image referenced from Wikipedia and originally posted by Fir0002.
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