Aggression in Lories and Lorikeets (Psittacidae, Lorinae)
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
_-Nelson_Bay_-NSW.jpg "Rainbow Lorikeet")
The 56 lory and lorikeet species are among the most gorgeous and active of all parrots, and are usually quite bold in character. In both the wild (particularly Australia) and in zoos, lory feeding stations are a great hit with tourists, with hundreds of colorful birds flocking onto treat-bearing visitors.
The Effect of Feeding Ecology
Lory and lorikeets rely primarily upon a relatively scarce, widely-scattered food source - pollen and nectar, and herein lays the explanation for their aggressive feeding behavior. Competition at feeding sites has fostered in these birds a repertoire of over 30 threat displays...a far greater number than is seen in other parrots. Unfortunately, these tendencies often express themselves as aggressive behaviors in captivity, with even long-paired birds sometimes running into difficulties.
Space and Aggression
A change in the environment is frequently a pre-cursor to aggression. Giving the birds more room - a great concept in principal - often leads to fighting. This is true for many birds (and other animals)...I once lost 2 white-crested laughing jay thrushes to aggression after giving birds that had lived peaceably together for 18 month access to an adjoining cage. Of course, crowding can also lead to fights, but the possibility of extending or establishing a territory seems an especially strong factor. Lories seem particularly prone to this phenomenon.
Adding a Nest Box
The provision of a nest box may bring on breeding-related aggression in an otherwise peaceful male, and moving even a long-established pair to a new cage is always a cause for concern. Be sure to observe your birds carefully at such times, and separate them if you will be away for long periods when the change is first instituted.
Introducing Birds
Introduce new birds by caging them side-by-side, and confine a possibly troublesome individual to a small cage or carrier within the larger cage, if space permits, to allow the birds to get used to each other. I relied upon this method with a wide variety of birds in zoo situations, and found it most useful. If using a carrier for the introduction, choose one with barred as opposed to solid sides, so that the birds can interact. Pets International Take Me Home Traveler is ideal.
Other Considerations
Limiting mobility by clipping the wings of aggressive birds is another tried and proven method of easing the introduction process. The availability of a wide variety of bird toys and a complex, well-perched cage will go a long way in keeping your birds occupied with constructive (rather than destructive!) activities. Of course, proper lory nutrition is essential in fostering normal behavior and good relations among your pets.
Thanks, until next time, Frank Indiviglio.
Please also see my article on lory and lorikeet feeding behavior and natural history:
Lories and Lorikeets - why do they differ so from other parrots?
Image referenced from Wikipedia.
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May 26th, 2009 at 3:46 am
Hey this is great stuff. But my lorikeet (shes a cross between a rainbow and a musk) is being aggressive towards our two Galahs. We haven’t had any changes at all to their Avery or cages inside, nothing at all has changed, yet our lorikeet has started attacking them, and moving to their area of the Avery where she never goes. It’s coming up to around summer, could this have anything to do with it?
May 26th, 2009 at 1:02 pm
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog and for your kind comment.
The onset of summer could very well be causing changes in the levels of various hormones, which might explain your bird’s behavior. This is more commonly seen in males, but is not limited to them. Even the largest of outdoor aviaries or zoo exhibits present an unnatural set of circumstances to birds (too close to other species, lack of mating opportunities etc.) and so it is difficult to predict or sometimes to explain their behavior…but problems most often occur as breeding season approaches. Changes in reactions to even long-favored people are also not uncommon.
Unfortunately, you may need to separate the bird for a time, and try re-introductions in a few weeks.
Good luck and best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
October 5th, 2009 at 3:27 pm
Hi,
We have 2 hand reared red collared lorikeets, think both are female? They are approaching 3yrs and the first 18mths-2 years they lived peaceably in the same cage. We did move them into a much bigger almost avairy style/sized cage and they became incredibly aggressive (which your blog just explained – thanks). However they have both been moved back into their original cage. One of the birds has always been “quieter and reserved”, Dazzle, the other “engaging, outgoing etc”, Razzle. We have also acquired a Jack russell but prior to his arrival we’ve had cats and a big dog who was in the house PRIOR to the lori’s joining the family. For some time now there has been much “cornering” – usually of Dazzle – of one lori by the other and angry sqwaking/shouting matches … it has become worse and dazzle started “losing” (I dont’ witness her pulling them) feathers. We have separted them from each other so now living in different cages, but I noticed this morning that Dazzle has obviously “pulled” a feather and caused herself some bleeding. She is a nervous obviously stressed bird! Razzle is entirely fearless of ALL the other animals cats and dogs and approached them actively. Dazz just gets stressed and nervous our jack russel appears to stress her especially.
Are you able to offer some advice on this matter?
with sincere thanks
Chanli
October 5th, 2009 at 11:26 pm
Hello Chanli, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog and for the feedback re the information that you found useful.
Unfortunately, the scenario you describe is not uncommon, and is difficult to address. Changes in personality that might have been brought on by the move to the larger cage and/or by hormonal changes associated with aging are not often reversible. You did well in separating the birds – are they in the same room? This would likely be stressful to the subordinate bird. In fact, parrots are able to recognize individual voices, so sometimes being in a separate room but within hearing distance of the dominate animal can stress the other.
A new dog can cause a different reaction in a bird that had adjusted to other dogs, especially if the bird is already stressed.
Sometimes you can re-introduce birds successfully after the passage of some time. The best way to do this is to allow the subordinate individual to live in the cage until it is comfortable there and then to introduce the dominant bird to that cage.
I’m sorry I couldn’t provide any better news – the most intelligent and interesting birds are usually the most complicated as well.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
October 5th, 2009 at 11:30 pm
Hey frank thanks for giving another post. I would just like to say that i really do appreciate it. But as for our lori, shes stopped attacking our other birds and she has gone back to her own thing which is great!
October 5th, 2009 at 11:49 pm
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for feedback…good to hear all is working out. I hope it continues to go well.
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
November 3rd, 2009 at 2:00 pm
Why does my lorikeet rub its upper and lower beek together and produce a clicking sound. Is that ok? what does it mean? Also is the poop bad or unhealthy when its dry and touched by kids. My lorikeet has been tested and has no sickness
November 3rd, 2009 at 3:01 pm
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Beak grinding is usually an aggressive sound, while a clicking noise, usually involving the tongue, is a sign of contentment…they are not easy to distinguish, so context – how your bird is behaving otherwise – is important. Please see my article on Parrot Vocalizations for additional information.
The droppings should absolutely not be touched by your children, even if dry. Samonella and other micro-organisms do not always show up on fecal exams, or may establish themselves after the last exam was run, and most species can live on dry surfaces for a surprisingly long time. Your children should wash well after handling the bird or food dishes, etc. also, even if these appear clean to the eye. I always suggest that folks speak with their doctors regarding proper hygiene, especially where children are involved.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.