The Chinese Painted Quail (Button Quail, Blue-breasted Quail), Conturnix chinensis, and the Japanese Quail, C. japonica – Part II
Click The Chinese Painted Quail (Button Quail, Blue-breasted Quail), Conturnix chinensis, and the Japanese Quail, C. japonica, Part 1, to read the first part of this article.
Enclosure
Although ideally suited to a grass-bottomed outdoor aviary, button quail also do quite well in large bird or small animal cages, such as the Pets International Premium Hutch or My First Home. Button quail are ground dwelling birds, so floor space is the most important consideration in cage selection.
When startled, these tiny birds explode straight up with great force, and can injure themselves in low-roofed cages. You may wish to trim their flight feathers if injuries are a possibility in the cage you provide. Despite their friendly demeanor, button quail are easily frightened by unexpected noises, and so should be housed in calm surroundings.
Newly hatched button quail are, quite literally, the size of bumblebees – check that they cannot squeeze through the cage’s mesh.
Button quail should be given as much room as possible – they are always in motion and youngsters in particular seem to explore endlessly. A raised, flat shelf in the cage will be used by the birds as an observation point – you may be surprised at how interested they seem to be in what goes on about them.
Like other quail and pheasants, button quail relish dust baths and do not bathe in water. A sand-filled bowl should be provided for this purpose.
Drinking bowls must be shallow and, for the tiny chicks, should be filled with pebbles or marbles to prevent drowning.
Light and Heat
Button quail do well at normal room temperatures. Their cage should be lit by a full spectrum bulb designed for use with birds.
Feeding
A high quality finch seed mix, such as Vitabird Finch Seed, should form the basis of the diet. Button quail also relish greens, and should be given small amounts of kale, romaine and similar foods, as well as sprouting grass like the Vitakraft Sprout Pot. Tiny mealworms, crickets, waxworms and other insects are a valuable addition to the diet, especially when they are breeding. Button quail do not open the seeds upon which they feed, and so a constant supply of suitably-small grit is essential. Millet sprays hung at head level will keep the birds busy and all who watch them amused.
Social Groups and Compatible Species
Button quail should be kept in pairs or small groups (“coveys”) of 1 cock and several hens. Males have the endearing habit of offering small insects to females, who are alerted to the treat by his high-pitched “peeps”. Males usually fight with each other and should not be housed together (this includes chicks of over 2 months in age).
They also get along admirably with nearly all finches, canaries and other softbills, and with those parrots that will not harass them. A pair will add greatly to your enjoyment of a well-planted aviary stocked with finches and similar birds.
Breeding
Button quails breed well in captivity – year round if in good condition and provided with a daylight period of 10 hours or so. Females are, however, quick to abandon their eggs (the eggs can be easily hatched in a commercial incubator). Cocks often harass sitting hens – those that do not will settle near the nest, apparently to assist in detecting threats.
The simple nest is constructed on the ground, often in the lee of a grass clump or log if such is available. Females lay 6-10 eggs, which they incubate for 16 days without help from the male. The young can follow their mother shortly after hatching, and are sexually mature within 2 months. The sight of a hen leading her thimble-sized brood about really must be seen to be fully appreciated. The chicks are very curious and tend to get into all sorts of trouble by wedging themselves into tight places, so be sure to check their cage carefully.
Miscellaneous
Chicks hatched in an incubator can fend for themselves right away, and make delightful pets. They will likely imprint upon you (see you as their “mother”) and will follow you about incessantly. Such birds sometimes fail to breed as they mature, but more than compensate for this by the close bonds that they form with people.
I hope that you will give these entertaining fellows a try – although a bit of a change from what most bird fanciers are accustomed to, button quail are well worth considering. If you have any doubts or questions, please write in. Thanks, until next time, Frank.
Information about button quail in the wild can be found at:
http://animaldiversity.ummz.umich.edu/site/accounts/information/Coturnix_chinensis.html
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August 2nd, 2008 at 9:12 am
are these dirty pets?
August 5th, 2008 at 9:25 pm
Hi Nat,
Thanks for reading the article and for your question.
All birds have fairly high metabolisms, and so even very small ones defecate frequently. In fact, the highest metabolisms of all are possessed by the smallest species, the hummingbirds.
Painted Quail are ground-dwelling birds, and so therefore it is all-the-more important that their cage’s floor be kept clean. One way to accomplish this is to cover the floor with a 2 inch deep layer of absorbant litter, such as CoralLife Bird Litter or a pine-based Reptile Sustrate (you can purchase these at http://www.thatpetplace.com). This litter can be “spot-cleaned” each day and completely replaced one each week or so, depending upon the cage size and number of birds you keep.
If you keep 1 or 2 birds in a smaller cage, you may wish to use a disposable cage liner, such as L/M AnimalCage Liner (also at http://www.thatpetplace.com).
Spot cleaning or replacing a cage liner takes but a few minutes each day – I think you will find that these charming little birds are well worth that effort.
Please write in with any other questions, and be sure to let me know if you decide to try Chinese Painted Quail as a new pet.
Thanks and take care, Frank.
December 31st, 2008 at 10:45 am
Dear Frank,
Once while visiting a nursing home I saw tiny quail at the bottom of the aviary. Are there minature quail breeds for this purpose or do you suppose they had quail chicks in the aviary? Thanks for any info…
December 31st, 2008 at 12:13 pm
Dear Bonnie,
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Most likely the birds are Chinese button quail, which reach only 4-5 inches in length. This is their natural size, i.e. how they appear in the wild as well. The bird you observed may have differed in color from that pictured in my article, as silver, white, mottled, blue-black and other captive strains have been developed. Their tiny size is on of the reasons they have look been popular in aviaries. Keep any eye out for chicks…they run about soon after hatching, and are a bit smaller than a walnut! Japanese quail are slightly larger, reaching 8 inches, and also are kept as pets and aviary birds.
Its nice to hear that the nursing home has established an aviary….I’m sure it is a wonderful resource for the residents and visitors. In years past I visited a nursing home weekly to se a relative, and brought along creatures ranging from chinchillas to a 4 foot long caiman. At first I concealed the animals beneath a long coat, as I had no approval to bring them in…but word got out among the residents, and I soon had quite a group awaiting my arrival each week. It really seemed to make a difference to them. Eventually the staff asked me to help set up an aquarium, which is largely maintained by the residents to this day (at first I received calls at all hours of the night regarding fish that “did not look well”, but folks soon got the hang of it!).
Best wishes for a happy and healthy New Year, Frank Indiviglio.
January 1st, 2009 at 8:46 pm
Dear Frank,
Thanks for the info…
I really enjoy your blog. Next I’m going to try sprouting seeds for my birds. Sounds like fun.
Happy New Year to you, too. Take care, bonnie
January 1st, 2009 at 9:02 pm
Hello Bonnie,
Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks so much for the kind words.
Please let me know how the sprouting goes; birds vary a great deal in their acceptance of sprouts, any feedback you might provide would be most appreciated.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
January 11th, 2009 at 10:24 am
Hello Frank,
The sprouts were slow to start. I think I put too many in the colander. But eventually they started to look more like the ones you buy in the store.
I put a small bunch in the pen we have for our baby chickens. We have 5 silkies and 3 Orpingtons that we hatched in Dec. The Orps loved them! They are a large variety that will grow to be 10-12 lbs. at maturiy. They are great foragers and immediately went for the sprouts. I think the silkies ate them also, if there was any left.
It is a great amount of fun to see the seeds sprout and feed them to our babies.
Of course, my parakeet got some sprouts and ate his also.
Our chicks will join the 7 adults we have in the hen house in the spring to make a larger flock. They will be free range. In return, we get a few delicious eggs and enjoy watching them forage on the yard for seeds and bugs. They all have names and different personalities. We think they’re great!
I have 6 button quail in the hen house, too. They have a protected run outside where they spend a lot of time even when the temp drops to 20 below. They are truly a hardy bunch.
**Just a note: the hen house is heated and has lights. The birds are spoiled.
While I’ve been writing this blog the sprouts have disappeared, I’ve held a silkie and an Orp and have been pooped on twice. Birds are great!!
I’ll keep sprouting, and keep in contact.
Blessings, bonnie
January 11th, 2009 at 2:29 pm
Hello Bonnie, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks very much for the update, I’m glad to hear that both you and the birds are enjoying the sprouts!
Your note on the chickens reminded me of a childhood experience… I grew up in the Bronx, NY, but, surprisingly, that did not prevent my having close contact with free ranging chickens. A neighbor keep a flock in his large yard, and it was, as you say, very interesting to see their various personalities. The chickens routinely found away out, much to the neighborhood children’s delight, but we were never able to catch them…only when the cock gave a certain call did they return and file back inside. The cock was very protective and more than once I watched him drive off cats (and people!).
When caring for chickens at the Bronx Zoo, I would often supply them with piles of dead leaves…they spent lots of time scratching about for the insects and shoots hidden within, and would rush to me whenever they spied me approaching with a new batch.
The button quail range into some quite cool regions and do indeed fare well outdoors. I think that keeping them so makes for healthier birds overall.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
January 17th, 2009 at 9:14 am
Hello, Frank,
Could you please answer a question for me about sprouting?
After a few days of rinsing and waiting for the seeds to sprout, do I keep rinsing every day? do I move them to a new container?
Mine started bunching up and some got mold.
I’m a visual learner; so,do you know where I can find pics?
Thanks so much, have a great day.
bonnie
January 17th, 2009 at 1:03 pm
Hello Bonnie, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your note.
You do need to keep rinsing most types of seeds if they are to sprout within a few days.
Ventilation is very important in preventing mold. However, the seeds need to be kept in the dark; closets and other conveniently dark places are poorly ventilated and mold will almost always develop in closed-off areas. A shelf or similar area blocked off by a dark curtain usually suffices, or an unused, partially opened cabinet. Some people cut ventilation panels into opaque plastic storage containers…locating the panels on the lower sides and bottom of the containers limits the amount of light entering.
Be sure to spread the seeds out well (they swell a bit when watered) and remove any that do develop mold so as to prevent its spread. Keeping the seeds on a colander of strainer will also help.
I found a sprout supplier that has quite a bit of info posted, along with drawings (designed for people, but same seeds, concepts as for birds). They also have a variety of sprouting equipment that might be helpful if you’ll be doing this on a large scale.
Good luck and please keep me posted; news of results/problems are useful and always appreciated.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
January 20th, 2009 at 9:17 pm
Hello Frank,
Thanks again for the info. I took a look at the link to sprouts. I know I didn’t give them enough darkness and drainage. I’ll have to keep them on the sieve instead of move them to a container with less holes.
Here I go again. Tonight I’ll start a new batch. The chicks just love them and I want them to know about grass and such things; so, when spring comes they can go outside and enjoy real vegetation.
blog you later, bonnie
January 20th, 2009 at 10:16 pm
Hello Bonnie,
Thanks for the update…please let me know how it turns out. I wouldn’t mind a bit of spring and fresh vegetation myself right now!
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio
February 11th, 2009 at 12:51 pm
hi
my female has been incubating for 18 days now but still have not hatched yet but i know that they are fertial because one accedently had been brocken and there was a baby inside this happened this morning
what could be taking the eggs so long to hatch
February 11th, 2009 at 1:12 pm
Hello Chris, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.
The average incubation period for the painted quail is 16 days, but individual hens vary a bit in this regard. I suspect that is what you are seeing, and that the eggs will hatch soon.
Sometimes problems do arise after development begins, and fertile eggs fail to hatch, but this is not common. Your hen will likely abandon the nest if the eggs do not hatch by day 21 or so.
Please keep me posted, and good luck.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio
February 13th, 2009 at 10:50 am
can you set quails free will they be able to survive on their own?
February 13th, 2009 at 11:16 am
Hello Ben, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Please do not release your quails into the wild. Thousands of animal species, ranging from insects to mammals, have been released into habitats where they are not native, and the results are always very bad for local creatures and the environment.
As for the quail, they will not likely survive in any event, as they have been captive bred for many generations. Even if you found a habitat similar to their natural home (which is not possible, assuming you are in the USA), their survival instincts have been dulled and their digestive systems have changed over time due to the effects of captive diets.
Animals released into the wild from captivity often transmit micro-organisms that can be fatal to native wildlife. For example, a bacteria harbored by your quail, which does them no harm at all, can be fatal to a related bird (i.e. bobwhite quail) in the USA.
Even when released into their native habitat, pets may transmit diseases to which they have become immune. This happened in Arizona with desert tortoises – former pets were released into the proper habitat as part of a government-sponsored plan. The tortoises appeared healthy, but carried a respiratory disease that quickly killed hundreds of endangered wild tortoises (the pets had become resistant to the disease).
For these reasons, state and federal regulations now prohibit the release of non-native animals. There are a number of inter net sources that provide help in finding homes for unwanted pet birds…please let me know if you need some references or other advice.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
February 13th, 2009 at 5:41 pm
how well would button quail fare living in a mixed aviary community that included doves and pigeons?(12×16 floor…lots of floor space and hidey holes)I know they have ben kept with doves, but what about pijis?
February 13th, 2009 at 6:28 pm
Hello Diane, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Button quail do fine with most of the pigeons regularly seen in captivity – bleeding hearts, fruit pigeons, etc., but please let me know if you have a specific species in mind.
I’ve kept a breeding pairs of Luzon bleeding heart doves and others with crested wood partridges (which are similar in habits to button quail, although a bit larger) without incident. The only pigeons that I’ve seen problems with, as concerns other ground-dwelling birds, were Victoria crowned pigeons (please let me know if you have those, they are both rare and spectacular!).
Pheasants do present a problem…males of most species are usually extremely territorial, even if unpaired, and would likely attack the quail.
Please let me know how your collection progresses.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
February 13th, 2009 at 6:31 pm
I have mostly ring-neck doves in that aviary….a few King Pigeons that could be moved if you think they would be a problem. What sex combo would make the most compatible little “flock” of buttons? I have read very different opinions of the male/female ration.
February 13th, 2009 at 8:01 pm
Hello Diane, Frank Indiviglio here.
I haven’t mixed king pigeons with other birds. Although they are quite large, kings are much like other rock doves in my experience, and should leave the quail alone. They may stress the quail a bit when landing or, especially, if they become startled and explode into flight, but other than that I think it should work out.
As regards the composition of a breeding group of button quail, you will come across different opinions concerning the ideal ratio. This is because button quails vary greatly in individual dispositions, and aviary size and set-up affects stocking rates as well… people tend to write based on their particular experience. One male to 2-3 hens is standard, and usually works out very well. I have kept as many as 6 hens with one male without incident, but this would be a bit much in most situations.
Some males tend to chase the hens incessantly, but that will only be revealed with time. It’s difficult to keep 2 males together…I managed this once in a large outdoor aviary at a nature center, but it was heavily planted and both males were extremely “low key”…none the less, the situation required constant monitoring.
The chicks grow rapidly, and reach full size within 8 weeks…males may begin harassing the young ones even before that time, so keep an eye on them. Please bear in mind that chicks can easily drown in rather shallow water pans, and, being literally “thimble sized”, can slip through even ½” mesh ( a board around the base of the aviary may be necessary).
Please keep me posted, and let me know if you need further information. Thanks.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
February 15th, 2009 at 3:45 pm
Would button quail be compatible with parakeets/budgies??
February 15th, 2009 at 4:02 pm
Hello Karen, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Button quail get along very well with budgies and just about every other type of parakeet. Assuming enough floor space is provided for them, they are a nice addition to parrot collections. They are very good at cleaning up seeds that are tossed about by the other birds, and both species will breed in the same enclosure without incident. Just be sure to provide the quail with small insects and other foods not required by the budgies (please see article).
Please let me know if you need any further information.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
March 4th, 2009 at 10:04 pm
we r hatching quail and im very excited !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
March 4th, 2009 at 10:30 pm
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
That is great news, thanks for the update!
Not many birds are cuter than newly hatched button quail – outside of hummingbirds, not many are smaller either!
Please let me know how all goes, and if you need any info.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
March 5th, 2009 at 7:53 pm
Hi,
I’m interested in breeding quail in Australia. Can you tell me what kind of non-Australian native quail breeds the best? Do any quails hatch their own eggs well in captivity without artificial incubation?
March 5th, 2009 at 11:47 pm
If you plan on keeping non-native Australian quail, the bobwhite, Colinus virginianus, would be a good choice. Native to North America, they have been bred in captivity for many generations and acclimate well to a wide variety of climates. Females nearly always incubate their eggs successfully.
If you are located in a very arid region of Australia, you might consider the Gamble’s quail, Lophortyx gambelii. Also known as the desert quail, they are quite beautiful and well adapted to hot, dry climates. They too breed well in aviaries.
However, you’ll need to check the regulations that govern the importation of non-native birds…Australia is usually quite strict on those matters.
If you need to stay with native species, the button quail described here would be a good choice. Other larger natives sometimes seen in captivity are the stubble quail, Conturnix pectoralis and the brown quail C. ypsilophorus. Both are rather shy and require a large, well-planted aviary.
Please keep me posted on your progress, and let me know if you need any further information.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
June 23rd, 2009 at 9:24 pm
Dear Frank,
Greetings! It’s been a long time. And I need help! My society finches hatched 2 eggs on Sunday. Do I need to feed them worms? Will the babies die? Are the parents feeding them?
Thanks so much. bonnie
June 24th, 2009 at 11:25 am
Hello Bonnie, Frank Indiviglio here. Nice to hear from you again…congrats on your hatchlings!
Society finches are usually very good parents, and are often used to foster other finch species…the first clutch may give them a little trouble, but usually all goes well.
You should provide a variety of protein-rich foods for the parents to use when feeding the chicks; such will also help keep the adults in good condition. Egg Food, tiny mealworms and small crickets are easiest to obtain. If you prefer not to use live insects, try canned invertebrates such as silkworms, grasshoppers, mealworms and crickets. You’ll need to break these up into small pieces, but otherwise they should be well-accepted.
The parents should be provided with a high quality vitamin/mineral supplement during this time, and a cuttlebone for additional calcium. Green sprouts are also important, and will be taken by the chicks once they fledge as well.
The chicks should fledge in 20-25 days, and will be fed by the parents for an additional 2-3 weeks thereafter…so stock up on that protein! You may need to remove the nest site, as society finches tend to be too “sociable” at times and may lay continually. Eventually, this will sap the hen’s strength.
In case you have not come across this fact (and I apologize if this is well-known to you) – it seems that society finches are not, as previously believed, a hybridized species whose origins are unknown. They are now considered to be a domestic variant of Asia’s white-rumped mannikin, Lonchura striata.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
June 24th, 2009 at 11:03 pm
Hello Frank,
And thank you for knowing so much and being so patient with us unexpected parents. I apologize for calling my zebra finches society. I hope their parenting skills are the same.
The hatchlings are fine today and I’ll be feeding mom and dad some little goodies.
Just one more question,if you don’t mind…If I take the nest out of the cage after the babes are out does that stop the female from laying eggs? I hope so. I don’t need babies hatching every 2 weeks. hahahaha!!!
You are the BEST, Frank and I thank you from my heart.
Bonnie
June 25th, 2009 at 6:24 pm
Hello Bonnie, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks so much for your kind remarks, I’m very happy that I could be of some help.
Zebra finches are as good as or better than society finches as parents.
They are stimulated to breed by the presence of a nest box (in the wild they are opportunistic breeders, nesting when rains, temperature and food supplies allow; being so well fed in captivity, they are almost always in breeding condition), so removing it and potential nesting material often stops them.
However, some females simply lay in their food bowl or even on the cage floor, and pulling the eggs results in a replacement clutch. If this occurs, you may need to pull the eggs and replace them with “dummies”…sometimes after the normal incubation period has past, the female will abandon these “eggs” and not nest again for awhile. Please keep me posted – chronic egg-laying will drain the hen (not to mention yourself as well!).
Thanks again for your support,
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
June 26th, 2009 at 8:29 pm
Dear Frank,
Here’s the new posting…there are 3 babies in the nest. As they get bigger it’s easier to see them. We enjoy finding a new one. Mom and Dad ate a small portion of boiled Silkie egg last night. I ate the rest and I must say there’s nothing quite as good as fresh free-range eggs. We also eat the quail eggs. Super delicious. They also amaze people when I bring deviled quail eggs to a pot-luck dinner. They wonder how I made the eggs so small. And then they eat all of the tiny eggs. It’s so comical.
Have a beautiful weekend, Bird Angel.
Bonnie
June 26th, 2009 at 9:18 pm
Hello Bonnie, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks very much for the update…glad to hear that all is going well. Hard boiled egg is a very good food for finches with chicks. If you can grind it up with the shell, so much the better.
Well, I have a somewhat offbeat quail egg-eating story for you. Many years ago, while working in the reptile department at the Bronx Zoo, I received a shipment of African egg-eating snakes (Dasypeltis scabra). As befits their common name, these unusual snakes feed solely upon birds eggs. They swallow eggs without cracking the shells, and have a boney process in the throat that literally slits the egg shell as it passes by. The egg’s contents are swallowed and the shell is regurgitated.
African egg-eating snakes are too small to eat chicken eggs, and will not take a portion of an egg, or a shelled egg – it must be a whole, small egg or they will refuse to feed. Being close to so many different types of food markets in NYC, I was able to find quail eggs easily…they are still the sole diet of this species at the zoo today.
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
July 4th, 2009 at 6:47 am
Happy 4th of July, Frank!
Somehow, we made a mistake on counting, again. There are only 2 babies in the nest.
Both babies have grown so fast! They are fully feathered and even have little tail feathers.
So, now we are waiting for the big day when they come out of the nest.
Re: egg-eating snakes.
I’ve shared your story of the egg-eating African snake with family and friends. We all are amazed.
Another question. If you don’t mind.
Later this year we may move to Nevada from Wisconsin. I’m planning to take my birds with me. We’ll be traveling in my van. I thought it would be OK to put them in a smaller cage for the trip. Any suggestions for traveling with finches and parakeets?
Have a safe holiday.
bonnie
July 4th, 2009 at 11:46 am
Hello Bonnie, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your kind wishes…I hope you and yours enjoy the holiday as well.
Your 2 chicks should do quite well…there are sometimes problems with large clutches, re competition and all. Good luck with them, I’m sure you’ll enjoy the next few weeks immensely.
You can use either a cage or airline carrier when traveling by car with birds. A carrier tends to keep them a bit more secure, as the sides are largely opaque, but it must be fit with perches. A cage should be fine…you may need to keep it covered for a good deal of the trip; watch your birds’ reactions at first. Short practice trips are a good idea
As delays and such may arise, be sure to carry ample supplies of cage paper and their usual food (not good to introduce changes on the road). A small oscillating fan and a first aid kit should be on hand for emergencies. Spray bottles are very useful in cooling the birds, especially as they may not drink normally on route. In that regard, be sure they eat and drink adequately when you stop.
Monitor their condition carefully – some birds are very stressed by travelling, and this always translates into a depressed immune system. Usually benign fungi and bacteria can then cause problems; in zoos, we always inoculate birds against Aspergillosus when moving them to a new exhibit, as the stress leaves them open to attack by a fungi that, in normal times, is not problematical.
Be sure to secure the cages well with bungee cords or in another way, and secure everything in their cage. Leave only a bit of water in their bowls while moving, and make sure any toys that are in the cage are soft; these should be positioned well away from perches so that they do not swing and hit the birds.
Check ahead with motels concerning their pet policy.
Good luck with your new chicks; enjoy and please keep me posted.
Happy 4th to you and yours,
Frank Indiviglio.
July 4th, 2009 at 1:21 pm
Dear Frank,
It seems that I just can’t stay out of trouble. I was checking on the chicks and one flew out of the cage, unto the floor, and then down the open staircase to the basement. He did fine and he looked chubby and healthy.
When I put him back in the cage, the other chick was out of the nest. No. 2 did not look as healthy and fat as No. 1. Now what do I do? Start supplimentle feeding? Or will No. 2 catch up?
Also, No. 2 could be a few days younger.
I put them both back in the nest. Hopefully, they’ve had enough excitement for one day. I know I have..haha
God Bless, bonnie
July 4th, 2009 at 2:51 pm
Hello Bonnie, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for the feedback.
Well, it is it good sign that the chick could get that far on its own! As long as the other is not severely debilitated, leave it with the parents. It’s quite normal for one to be more robust than the other…as you suggest, it may have been the last to hatch. The parents will continue to feed them for a time once they leave the nest for good, and the smaller will also begin feeding on its own and likely catch up soon.
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
July 5th, 2009 at 6:58 am
Thanks again, Frank.
I’ll try to stay out of trouble and the cage.
I’m sure you’re right…No. 2 made it this far and will be alright for the rest of his nestling life.
Have a great day, bonnie
July 5th, 2009 at 10:32 am
Hello Bonnie, Frank Indiviglio here.
Those birds are in good hands…I can tell. Please let me know how all goes, I think you’ll enjoy watching them fledge and become independent.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
July 27th, 2009 at 6:28 pm
Dear Frank,
Bonnie here.
The 2 fledglings have fledged and have been forced into independence by their parents.
The mother (hen) managed to also lay 5 more eggs before I removed the common nest. No more nest. No more eggs.
I’ve prepared a new cage for the “youth” which will be going to live with my granddaughter. I’m just waiting to see if we have a male/female or female X 2.
When should the male finches show their orange cheek spots?
Thanks again, Frank, God bless
Bonnie
July 27th, 2009 at 9:42 pm
Hello Bonnie, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the update; I’m happy to hear that all went well.
Best to remove the nest as you did. Zebra finches do not breed seasonally, but rather when conditions are favorable….the mere presence of a nest site (or, in some cases, a food dish!) may spark egg-laying.
The cheek color may develop as early as age 3-4 months; but breeding is best put of until the bird nears 1 year of age.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
July 30th, 2009 at 5:28 pm
Dear Frank,
Thank you, again. Today I found an egg in the food dish. hahaha
I’m saving them for crafts. But I hope mama doesn’t overdo.
Best to you, Bonnie
July 30th, 2009 at 8:21 pm
hi,i have been raising 9 button quail and ive had a problem with little balls of poop forming on their feet.i do everything i can to keep the cage cleaned out,but they get their feet wet then get the dust from their food stuck to it along with droppings.its sort of like what happens to your fingers when you are bredding alot of chicken wings.the breading builds up on your fingers each time you stick them in egg and then the flour.i tried to soak one of their feet to remove it,but the foot came off.i felt so bad and really need to know how to prevent this from happening.is there a certain kind of ground cover i should use?
July 31st, 2009 at 1:31 pm
Hello Bonnie, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the feedback…please thank your finch for validating my remark!
You may need to switch to an enclosed tubular feeder; some will then just lay on the floor, however. Well-fed females usually do fine, but if it keeps up please be back in touch and we can consider dummy eggs or other options.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
July 31st, 2009 at 1:57 pm
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
The problem you are seeing may be related to the space available to the birds. Despite their tiny size, they produce a great deal of waste material and move about quite a bit. In a small enclosure, it’s very difficult to prevent them from walking in their feces.
You might also consider an enclosed water fountain, so that they have less opportunity to walk in water. However, you would need to secure it well (most are designed to clip through cages bars) and check that they are using it regularly.
Corn cob, hardwood chips or chemical-free sand are both absorbent and work well with button quail, with sand being better for chicks as it prevents the legs from splaying out.
Mineral oil may help in removing the caked material, but you would be well advised to consider a veterinary visit. When normal foot function is restricted, the foot or toes can become necrotic, which is likely what happened with the bird you mentioned.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
August 14th, 2009 at 8:39 am
Dear Frank,
Bonnie here. Updating on the finches.
The fledglings are now feathered so I can tell they’re both male. I’ve moved them into their own cage away from their parents.
Their next move will be to my granddaughter’s room. Where they will live happily ever after. (at least in my world, haha)
Momma hasn’t produced any eggs for awhile, that’s a good thing.
That’s all for now.
Blessings, bonnie
August 14th, 2009 at 1:55 pm
Hello Bonnie, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks so much for the update and congrats!
It’s promising that she hasn’t re-nested already – fun but it drains her (not to mention you!).
Good luck and please keep me posted.